$1/3 NLHE - did I go crazy? (1 Viewer)

[moojersey]

Gents appreciate comments. Pretty sure I overplayed this one, but where did I go wrong.

$1 / 3 NLHE game is $300 buy in cap.

Heads up pot.

Me: early 30's but look much younger. At the table for less than a rotation. I don't really like the table as it seems like a lot of deep regs who are good players. I'm looking to snipe minnows not have an epic battle with great whites. I sat with $200, slightly up

Villain: older 50's white guy. Don't know much about him. He covers me. Probably has $400-600 in front of him.

These games are pretty soft. Raises typically mean really big hands. JJ+ and AQ+

Hand in question.

Villain makes it $15 from early position. Folds to me one before button (cutoff?)

I look down at pocket 6d 6s
I call, the rest fold.

Pot = 31 with rake taken

Flop:

7h 8c 9h

Villain bets $30

I call $30

Pot = 85 all rake taken $6 max

Turn: 10h

7h 8c 9h 10h

Villain bets $60

I'm putting villain on a big overpair or hit a set. So I'm thinking QQ+

In my mind I don't see him with a jack and definitely not QJ. Also I don't believe he made a flush because I believe he has the big pair.

I raise to $130 villain tanks then calls.

I put my final $20'ish dollars in blind.

River: Ah

7h 8c 9h 10h Ah

Villain calls the $20.

I don't expect him to fold for $20 but I'm thinking I'm good OTT and want to get my money in on any river card.

Ok guys be gentle and let me know where my inner donk reared its head.

I'll post results below this line once I get some feedback. Thanks!

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Villain: Pocket Jacks = Jc Js - for the turned straight to the Jack

 

[AllinBallin]

Feels like he might've flopped a set, based on your info of the players. Personally, I might've waived the white flag on the flop...

 

[DrStrange]

Reading the post, the results seem obvious. . . .

Buying in for less than 100bb sends a signal to the table. Make sure you want to do that or buy-in for 100bb. (not a mistake if there was a purpose in buying short.)

Preflop - The $15 raise makes it difficult to set mine profitably. Not impossible, but the starting price is ouchy given Hero is only starting with $200. Preflop is acceptable, but marginal. Keep in mind that there will be plenty of times Hero flops a set and villain makes ace high - Hero would make something like $60 after risking $15 on an one to eight proposition.

The flop missed the set, but gives Hero some semi-bluffing opportunities. Hero has three options.

Best = Fold. Hero missed the set and is too short stacked to blow villain off the hand unless villain is c-betting with AK/AQ etc.

Hero could raise the flop, representing a set or perhaps a straight. TJ is a perfectly plausible starting hand for Hero. Let's put villain to the test. Hero would be planning a shove on the turn. I think this line clearly would fold out AK/AQ (aside from the flush draws) but Hero's small stack is not enough of a threat for an over pair. More so because of the flush draw on board. Hero could easily have Ax of hearts or some sort of heart connectors.

Worst = Call. Hero needs fold equity. He could even get blown off the hand by a big ace later in the hand.

The turn is semisweet - Hero has the "dummy" end of a straight AND there are three flushing cards giving villain some outs when he is behind. Doing anything less than jamming is an error. Blind betting Hero's last $20 on the next street rather than just betting it outright looks rather "curious" to the table and will absolutely cement Hero's table image.

My grades:
prior to the start of the hand = C- Don't buy in short without a reason.
Preflop = C Marginal set mining situation
Flop = F If hero isn't folding at least put pressure on the villain
Turn = C- Credit for betting, but leaving $20 behind was a mistake far greater than the amount of money involved.

The preflop call is ok. Fold when the flop doesn't make a set.

DrStrange

 

[moojersey]

Thanks DrStrange.

I am curious about you thought on my buy in. I mostly play $1/2 and I guess I'm just used to buying in for $200. This room only runs $1/3. I did not think it made a big difference. What are your thought when someone sits with less than 100bb? I've had alot of success buying in for 50bb playing tight and looking for good spots with equity in multi-way pots.

 

[DrStrange]

When someone buys in short I watch to see if: a) they are planning to use a short stack/high aggression strategy or b) if they seem unsure / scared. If it is the first one, I will need to pay careful attention and make mild adjustments to my play. If it is the second one, I will be looking to exploit the passive/weak play.

There is a third prospect - that the players buys in $200 at a time and didn't see or didn't care about the $3 big blind. Then I don't draw any inferences (but I do look at the sizing of his preflop raises)

The $1 difference in the big blind is not a huge deal but neither is it trivial. That extra dollar has its way of compounding its way into bigger pots than one dollar more.

DrStrange

 

[moojersey]

Ok posted up the results in my OP. I was drawing dead on the turn. I was correct that villain had an overpair lol. Pocket Jacks (no hearts though). He turned the higher straight. I was felted as you might have guessed. I reloaded for $100 ran it up to $250 then gave it all back. Got into a big hand about 3-4 hours later where I landed the 2nd nuts on a backdoor flush. King high flush using both cards - ie 3 hearts on the board runner runner. Villain backed into the A high flush. Oh well was definitely not my day.

 

[Jimulacrum]

DrStrange's remarks are pretty close to what mine would be if I had posted first.

I'll add this: It's a big mistake to put people on such a narrow class of hands based on small action like a preflop raise or a flop c-bet. There's no real reason why your villain must have an overpair here, even though he happened to have one. Based on that bad assumption, you rationalized playing for stacks with an extremely vulnerable hand that stood to be second-best the whole way.

Especially sitting behind 67 BB, you don't have the luxury of making loose or fancy plays with set-mining hands. You see a flop (a cheap one, ideally), and you either commit with a set or prepare to end the hand. With 66, a flop like 789 with two hearts is either a semi-bluff or a snap-fold. Villain took the first swing here, and you didn't have enough chips to play back, so stealing was off the table. Without fold equity, you're not getting odds to draw to the straight, which will either be ahead and get no action, or will be behind with no redraws and get you stacked.