1st Poker Table Build Suggestions (1 Viewer)

WazamBelina

WazamBelina

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Hey Everyone! Building my first table. This is my first woodworking type project. I would love to get some feedback and suggestions. The table will be 8 feet long with a dealer and chip tray in the middle. I am not sure if I should make this 8-person or 9-person. Is 8ft too short for 9 people with a dealer? Listed below are the parts I plan to use. If there are any better alternatives, please let me know. Links are listed below as well. And if anyone has any plans for an 8ft table, please send them my way :).

3 sheets 3/4x4x8 Ply $97.14 -
8 ft 1/4in Volara poker table foam padding $53.89
8ft Delta Holdem Layout pro material $99.95
9 Brass Drop-in Drink Holder - $53.55
3ft Black Plastic Table Edge Molding for Dealer - $3.45
9ft Modena Poker Table Rail Vinyl - $71.55
1"x54"x108" 1in Rail Foam - $58.46
1/4inx20 Carriage Bolts 12 pack - $3.91 - Not too sold on this may use T-nuts. If anyone has any experience with either let me know.
Table Legs - Just looking for the right pair on FB marketplace.

Any feedback is appreciated. Will post on the forum when the table is done! Thanks, Everyone!
 
Having built many tables....

I advise ditching the drop-in cup holders, allowing players to naturally spread out regardless of numbers. Go with either slide-under holders (players place them if/where THEY want them) or drink carts instead (you can use the drop-ins in the carts). Easy to make several inexpensive drink/food stands from folding TV trays, and it keeps the drink/food mess and spills off the table felt.

3 sheets of 3/4" ply will make for a VERY heavy table, especially if a full 8 feet long (which is plenty long enough -- anything longer is hard to see and deal). Consider using 5/8" or 11/32" sandply for the rail to save weight and cost. I also recommend a narrower table than 48", making dealing much easier (personal preference is maximum 44x90).

If the dealer spot will also be a player location, reconsider the dealer tray. It's usually more trouble than it is a benefit, as it tends to collect chips, cards, and dirt, and it's typically in the way and uncomfortable for a player (dealing or not). Consider designing a tray opening with optional tray or felt plug-in, so the tray can be used when needed or removed when not. An chip drawer underneath the table (at the dealer location) is also a viable out-of-the-way option.

I personally find 1/4" Volara to be too hard (and can show dents/impressions), and prefer a softer table foam. Ymmv.

Check prices on YAT (yourautotrim.com); they have competitive pricing on table and rail foam (and felt), plus free shipping on most orders -- use code scottkeen for 15% off.

Lastly, don't include a wooden racetrack in your table design. Looks great, plays awful.

Good luck!
 
BGinGA said:
Having built many tables....

I advise ditching the drop-in cup holders, allowing players to naturally spread out regardless of numbers. Go with either slide-under holders (players place them if/where THEY want them) or drink carts instead (you can use the drop-ins in the carts). Easy to make several inexpensive drink/food stands from folding TV trays, and it keeps the drink/food mess and spills off the table felt.

3 sheets of 3/4" ply will make for a VERY heavy table, especially if a full 8 feet long (which is plenty long enough -- anything longer is hard to see and deal). Consider using 5/8" or 11/32" sandply for the rail to save weight and cost. I also recommend a narrower table than 48", making dealing much easier (personal preference is maximum 44x90).

If the dealer spot will also be a player location, reconsider the dealer tray. It's usually more trouble than it is a benefit, as it tends to collect chips, cards, and dirt, and it's typically in the way and uncomfortable for a player (dealing or not). Consider designing a tray opening with optional tray or felt plug-in, so the tray can be used when needed or removed when not. An chip drawer underneath the table (at the dealer location) is also a viable out-of-the-way option.

I personally find 1/4" Volara to be too hard (and can show dents/impressions), and prefer a softer table foam. Ymmv.

Check prices on YAT (yourautotrim.com); they have competitive pricing on table and rail foam (and felt), plus free shipping on most orders -- use code scottkeen for 15% off.

Lastly, don't include a wooden racetrack in your table design. Looks great, plays awful.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
Very Helpful. Thanks! Any suggestions on which table foam from YAT? Also, I am only planning on 2 layers really. 1 for the table surface and 1 for the rail. The third sheet is for cup holders.
 
WazamBelina said:
Any suggestions on which table foam from YAT?

Also, I am only planning on 2 layers really. 1 for the table surface and 1 for the rail. The third sheet is for cup holders.
Click to expand...
I like the 3/10" high density open cell foam.

You planning on under-table slide/swing-out cup holders? Certainly better than in-table or in-rail, but having fixed-position holders anywhere forces the players to adapt vs getting to choose their placement.
 
I used 8 T-nuts imbedded into the rail plywood, equally spaced around the table to attach my rail. Easy to remove if needed to change cloth. It can be tigtened as neeeded to hold the diffuser under the rail.
 

Attachments

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I got a bunch of garage organization for christmas. Once I get my workbench set up, this will be one of my first projects. Going with the "if you build it they will come" mentality since our home games have fizzled recently.
 
BGinGA said:
I like the 3/10" high density open cell foam.

You planning on under-table slide/swing-out cup holders? Certainly better than in-table or in-rail, but having fixed-position holders anywhere forces the players to adapt vs getting to choose their placement.
Click to expand...
Yeah I’m gonna do the slide in. Will definitely be better. I’m still probably going to leave the dealer in. Maybe keep is 48 wide with the dealer tray but not too sure yet.
 
WazamBelina said:
Yeah I’m gonna do the slide in. Will definitely be better. I’m still probably going to leave the dealer in. Maybe keep is 48 wide with the dealer tray but not too sure yet.
Click to expand...
Do you have a dedicated dealer? A cutout is fine but a dealer tray seems pointless in most home games. Also I second the not 48” wide, makes scooping pots tricky. My main small table is 84x42 I also have a 90x46 that is borderline too wide.
 
kmccormick100 said:
Do you have a dedicated dealer? A cutout is fine but a dealer tray seems pointless in most home games. Also I second the not 48” wide, makes scooping pots tricky. My main small table is 84x42 I also have a 90x46 that is borderline too wide.
Click to expand...
True. It's not really for breaking pots or making change. We occasionally play blackjack and other casino table games, so I just want to have one for that.
 
kmccormick100 said:
Do you have a dedicated dealer? A cutout is fine but a dealer tray seems pointless in most home games. Also I second the not 48” wide, makes scooping pots tricky. My main small table is 84x42 I also have a 90x46 that is borderline too wide.
Click to expand...
I've seen people say this about 48" wide and I don't understand it. Almost any round poker table is at least 48" wide. 56" is a common width for them. My round is 58" and we have no problem raking pots. My big oval is 46" wide and is fine. I also have a small oval that is 38" wide. That was a mistake. Way too narrow. With narrow tables when you are dealing from the end, dealing past posted blinds can be tough.

Playability wise, wider and shorter is better. Aesthetically, most prefer a table that is about twice as long as it is wide.

I'm not challenging the person I'm quoting, I've seen others say it too, I'm just trying to understand it.
 
Jake14mw said:
I've seen people say this about 48" wide and I don't understand it.
Click to expand...
As a dealer, it's not just about dragging pots -- it's also about comfortably reaching all player positions to drag in bets and retreive folded hands. 48" across = an even longer distance to the opposite corners as well.
 
Jake14mw said:
But isn't reaching the corners harder with a longer narrower table?
Click to expand...
Distance from dealer to opposite corners is shorter on a 44x96 table vs a 48x96 table.

The difference in circumference (player room) is 1" less per player if eight players, or even less with 9-10 players.
 
BGinGA said:
Distance from dealer to opposite corners is shorter on a 44x96 table vs a 48x96 table.

The difference in circumference (player room) is 1" less per player if eight players, or even less with 9-10 players.
Click to expand...
Yes, of course. If the table is smaller it's easier to reach. My point was shorter and wider plays better than longer and narrower. I would rather have 46x90 than 44x94.
 
Going to ask a dumb question…but when you say 46x94…

Is that the table base width? OR

The width of the rail outside edge to outside edge?

I plan on building a table and having the rail have a 1/2” over hang (will have a 1” rise)
 
rcamp014 said:
Going to ask a dumb question…but when you say 46x94…

Is that the table base width? OR

The width of the rail outside edge to outside edge?

I plan on building a table and having the rail have a 1/2” over hang (will have a 1” rise)
Click to expand...
Table size with rail I’d imagine
 
Jake14mw said:
Yes, of course. If the table is smaller it's easier to reach. My point was shorter and wider plays better than longer and narrower. I would rather have 46x90 than 44x94.
Click to expand...
First of all, those aren't comparable dimensions -- but even so, I'm not sure the math agrees with you.

46x90 is two extra inches across, and one inch shorter to each end than the 44x94 (which actually has more player room). Without breaking out the tape measure, that sounds longer to the opposite corners to me. Also consider that each end is within 36" or less from the dealer spot for both lengths.

Self-dealt games are different. But dedicated dealer tables benefit the dealer when not as wide.
 
@BGinGA with all your XP on building tables. I know you mentioned that your preference is 44 x 94 will this comfortably hold 10 people giving room between each person.

Also, I went ahead and ordered the 3/10” HD Poker Table Foam Open Cell, but question, is that good enough to just right over the wood or should I add a dual layer?
 
Last edited:
rcamp014 said:
@BGinGA with all your XP on building tables. I know you mentioned that your preference is 40 x 94 will this comfortably hold 10 people giving room between each person.

Also, I went ahead and ordered the 3/10” HD Poker Table Foam Open Cell, but question, is that good enough to just right over the wood or should I add a dual layer?
Click to expand...
I have the 3/10 open cell and it’s plenty thick enough. I definitely wouldn’t recommend doubling it up because the surface would be too soft and chip stacking may become an issue
 
Buge said:
I have the 3/10 open cell and it’s plenty thick enough. I definitely wouldn’t recommend doubling it up because the surface would be too soft and chip stacking may become an issue
Click to expand...
Perfect! Thanks for the feedback
 
rcamp014 said:
@BGinGA with all your XP on building tables. I know you mentioned that your preference is 40 x 94 will this comfortably hold 10 people giving room between each person.

Also, I went ahead and ordered the 3/10” HD Poker Table Foam Open Cell, but question, is that good enough to just right over the wood or should I add a dual layer?
Click to expand...
3/10" is plenty.

Unless all of your players are huge, any table surface length of 90"+ should be plenty for 10 players. I've built many 42x84 tables that comfortably seat 9 plus dealer. The rail overhang will typically add a bit of extra length and width.
 
BGinGA said:
3/10" is plenty.

Unless all of your players are huge, any table surface length of 90"+ should be plenty for 10 players. I've built many 42x84 tables that comfortably seat 9 plus dealer. The rail overhang will typically add a bit of extra length and width.
Click to expand...

Where are you getting the the open cell foam from?
 

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