3 in 1 Poker table repair HELP (2 Viewers)

[JDA510]

Hi All,

this is my first post after days of searching. If this has been address I apologize and could someone please point me in the right direction.

I recently purchased a fairly inexpensive 3 in 1 1 poker table, dining table, and bumper pool table. Everything is in pretty good shape except the poker felt. It's an inlaid piece of plywood with spray adhesive holding the felt down. I can't find any way to remove the wooden insert to replace the felt.

So far I've cut a portion of the felt to see what's underneath and there appears nothing holding the insert in place so I assume it's been glued down with some heavy adhesive. I've tried pulling it and prying it up, but the wood is just plywood so it will break easily. Does anybody have any suggestions?

I've considered just laying new felt over the top, but there's no way to get the edges underneath. Thanks for any tips!

 

[upNdown]

Can you get any pictures to show us what you’re working with?
I had a very similar sounding situation with an old ‘70s bumper pool table / card table. The outer structure of the table top was all plastic, and the playing surface was inlaid in the middle. It turned out it was just glued in, and I was able to pry it out. Mine was actually made out of thing other than plywood, maybe Masonite or whatever they make peg board out of, so it was a little more flexible, and that may have made the prying easier.

 

[upNdown]

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/posts/287525/

 

[JDA510]

Can you get any pictures to show us what you’re working with?
I had a very similar sounding situation with an old ‘70s bumper pool table / card table. The outer structure of the table top was all plastic, and the playing surface was inlaid in the middle. It turned out it was just glued in, and I was able to pry it out. Mine was actually made out of thing other than plywood, maybe Masonite or whatever they make peg board out of, so it was a little more flexible, and that may have made the prying easier.

 

[allforcharity]

Would some heat to uncure the adhesive help to remove the felt and save the wood?

 

[JDA510]

I thought about that, but was hoping somebody already had a solution. I've been considering just chipping the wood insert apart and felting a new piece of wood altogether and gluing It in its place.

 

[CraigT78]

Both my 3-1 tables were held down by Velcro.os there any give at all? I had to pry up a bit and "pop" it gave way.

 

[alpine0000]

It doesnt come up. Just remove the old felt and then use spray glue for the new felt, and take a putty knife and tuck the edges down into the crack.

 

[JDA510]

Only problem is the residual felt already in the crack. Maybe some time with a pair of plyers can yank out what's already tucked down there.

 

[alpine0000]

Only problem is the residual felt already in the crack. Maybe some time with a pair of plyers can yank out what's already tucked down there.

You have to take a putty knife and scoop out that old felt. I used to have a table like that 15 years ago and I changed the felt every few months.

 

[WedgeRock]

Only problem is the residual felt already in the crack. Maybe some time with a pair of plyers can yank out what's already tucked down there.

Also known as a "table-wedgie"...

 

[JDA510]

Thanks for all the input everybody, hopefully I'll put this project to bed this weekend. Recommendations on a new surface? I've heard a lot about suited speed cloth. Any alternatives? Best sites to buy from? Thanks again y'all

 

[upNdown]

Thanks for all the input everybody, hopefully I'll put this project to bed this weekend. Recommendations on a new surface? I've heard a lot about suited speed cloth. Any alternatives? Best sites to buy from? Thanks again y'all

Get some padding under there, and don't buy the cheapest suited speed cloth you can find, because that's gonna be cheap, stiff, fakey chinese crap.

 

[WedgeRock]

Get some padding under there, and don't buy the cheapest suited speed cloth you can find, because that's gonna be cheap, stiff, fakey chinese crap.

Agreed on both points.

The padding is going to add some height (1/4"). If you want to keep the playing area level with the rail area, you may need to replace the centerfield plywood and go with a thinner piece. This is not a problem, just making sure you are aware of it. I highly recommend adding some Volara padding.

EDIT: Also, mark the position of the plywood you take out (mark the table along one edge and the plywood along the edge that came off that side. That way, you put the plywood back in the same position it came out of. I might not be a perfect fit if you rotate the plywood.

 

[CraigT78]

1/4 closed cell velora and suited speed cloth from your auto trim are good - or go custom from @T_Chan

 

[allforcharity]

I'd suggest gaming suede, too. It's up to you if you want to have a custom print on it. Most important is the playability of the surface. But for round/octagon tables the cards don't really have to travel as far, so almost all surfaces are useful if there happens to be a pre-made pattern that you like.

 

[Trihonda]

Pry out the old wood. Add a new piece of wood (cut in circle) that is 1/4” thinner. Add volatility 1/4” foam with ssc. Before installing foam/cloth, install 4 t-nuts and bolts in the top, it construction allows. Otherwise utilize some Velcro strips to keep it in place, yet removable

 

[upNdown]

But for round/octagon tables the cards don't really have to travel as far, so almost all surfaces are useful if there happens to be a pre-made pattern that you like.

Is there somewhere that sells these? I've seen layouts sold on eBay but they're always for big octagons.

 

[WedgeRock]

Before installing foam/cloth, install 4 t-nuts and bolts in the top, it construction allows.

Great tip.

 

[Kensco]

Agreed on both points.

The padding is going to add some height (1/4"). If you want to keep the playing area level with the rail area, you may need to replace the centerfield plywood and go with a thinner piece. This is not a problem, just making sure you are aware of it. I highly recommend adding some Volara padding.

EDIT: Also, mark the position of the plywood you take out (mark the table along one edge and the plywood along the edge that came off that side. That way, you put the plywood back in the same position it came out of. I might not be a perfect fit if you rotate the plywood.

Sound advice there ^^^

Hard to tell from the pictures what you are dealing with below the playing surface. If you haven't already; remove the table top from the base/legs. The fasteners (if there are any) anchoring the plywood playing surface may be hidden by the base.

Edit: Never mind - just realized bumper pool is probably what's connected to the pedestal

Good luck..

 

[JDA510]

Correct the bumper pool table is what is connected to the pedestal and the poker/playing surface is a removable top. I'm not sure the T-bolts would work as I'm not sure how much room before I'd drill thru the table surface on the opposite side.

 

[Kensco]

The file is too large to upload here, but if you Google "ng_2351_manual.pdf" you'll get the Challenger brand of 3-in-1 assembly instructions. They don't show the topper section you are trying to repair as having multiple parts. But they have a phone number listed: Challenger Manufacturing at 800-759-0977. Even if yours is a different brand maybe they'll have some insight on how to separate the pieces?

Again, good luck.

& keep us posted on your progress!

 

[JDA510]

For those curious on what's underneath...Any suggestions? Doesn't quite seem like a new piece of thinner plywood will work, what do y'all think?

 

[CraigT78]

Nope - looks like you're going to have a 1/4 lip if you use foam. You could use some fabric batting (or what ever it is) but I'd prefer the foam even with the additional rise. Word of advice - scrape off that old glue and hit it with a sander.

 

[Kensco]

If you are good with a router remove those spars and cut a circular piece of plywood to sink in their place.

Maybe in layers: glued-in base + playing surface + volara = depth of the space. The glued in base would give the support the spars offered. Splitting the insert depth between the two pieces would provide a thickness to support the use of t-nuts.

If it's problematic, you could router out that lip with a flush cut bit.

I think you have a few options, and an interesting project ahead of you.

Looking forward to your updates!

 

[Trihonda]

And use t-nuts on the finished play surface.

 

[T_Chan]

I really like the foresight of the manufacturer to make changing the felt on the table so easy...

 

[WedgeRock]

I really like the foresight of the manufacturer to make changing the felt on the table so easy...

They don't want flexibility... They want you throwing out the table and buying a new one...

 

[upNdown]

The one that I re-did has a playing surface that’s above the “rail” (there really isn’t a rail) so it’s not perfect. But it’s tolerable, and a whole hell of a lot better with a padded playing surface. I’d recommend you find a thin piece of plywood or luan and do just that. And then either play it how it is, or else build a padded rail to go around it, which would make it perfect.

 

[BGinGA]

Personally, I'd replace the original wood surface piece with a hardboard insert that fits flush with the outer wood, fill in those outer grooves, drill out the cup holder holes all the way through the table, and put down full-size foam and speed cloth over the entire thing. Add some real metal cup holders and call it a day.

What is the outside diameter of the table?