ASM Cash Game chip set advice (2 Viewers)

[IamMattDamon]

Hello there chippies!

I am creating my first cash game chip set for our card room (ASMs), and with no prior experience designing chips I am asking for your input and advice. Anything from fonts you prefer to.. anything

I would also really appreciate help with the inlay design. The only thing I am 100% certain I want to keep on it is the logo.

 

[Trihonda]

Can I ask what denoms you intend to go with?

1/5/25/100?

Your 10/50/100 confuses me somewhat. Might be a currency thing? Dunno

 

[IamMattDamon]

Can I ask what denoms you intend to go with?

1/5/25/100?

Your 10/50/100 confuses me somewhat. Might be a currency thing? Dunno

Yes, it is a currency thing Going with 5/10/50/100/500/1000

 

[Trihonda]

Yes, it is a currency thing Going with 5/10/50/100/500/1000

Can I inquire why?

Common rule for chips is to avoid having chips that are exactly double the denom before. Rule of thumb is to have each new denomination increase by 4 or 5x. A typical casino runs $1, $5, $25, $100, $500. Most Efficient. Less change making, and less confusion.

 

[SixSpeedFury]

Can I inquire why?

Common rule for chips is to avoid having chips that are exactly double the denom before. Rule of thumb is to have each new denomination increase by 4 or 5x. A typical casino runs $1, $5, $25, $100, $500. Most Efficient. Less change making, and less confusion.

Well, he's from Norway, so those are the equivalent of the US currency (5 krone = .59 cents, 10 krone = 1.19, etc.).

 

[IamMattDamon]

It has something to do with live straddles and usual stakes played.
The most regular game we spread is 10/20, which often is played 10/20/40 NLHE/ROE with a forced UTG straddle. Re-straddles to 80/160 and so forth is not uncommon here, so it makes things easier with less changing.

That is basically why we have ended up with this spread for chips. Could do 5/10/25/100/500/1000 obv. The 5 chip is for lower staked games.

 

[SixSpeedFury]

The 500 is odd though. Isn't that like $60? I'd do 250, which is closer to $25 (but is really $30)

 

[Frogzilla]

That logo looks great, but the denominations look like they dont belong. A smaller font, and maybe a slight color effect to break it up from the KORTKLUBB all white?

 

[IamMattDamon]

The 500 is odd though. Isn't that like $60? I'd do 250, which is closer to $25 (but is really $30)

We have a 50 note, 100 note, 200 note, 500 note and 1000 note in Norway. How the amounts look like compared to usd is of no importance

 

[IamMattDamon]

That logo looks great, but the denominations look like they dont belong. A smaller font, and maybe a slight color effect to break it up from the KORTKLUBB all white?

Thanks! Will look at smaller fonts with outlined text, or just another color for the denomination

 

[Trihonda]

We have a 50 note, 100 note, 200 note, 500 note and 1000 note in Norway. How the amounts look like compared to usd is of no importance

Nothing to do with how they look compared to USD. It’s about poker/game and chip efficiency. In the US we have a .05, .10, .25, .50, $1, $2, $5, $10, $20 etc... doesn’t mean that translates well to a poker game (or custom chips). When ordering a custom set, you can maximize your bank (and playability) by using the 4-5x muliiple formula.

 

[IamMattDamon]

Nothing to do with how they look compared to USD. It’s about poker/game and chip efficiency. In the US we have a .05, .10, .25, .50, $1, $2, $5, $10, $20 etc... doesn’t mean that translates well to a poker game (or custom chips). When ordering a custom set, you can maximize your bank (and playability) by using the 4-5x muliiple formula.

The denoms have been used everywere I have played in Norway, and it works over here.

We try to stay away from quarters and I think that is the main difference. The 10/50/100/500/1000 are more about synergy and is easier to count in 20's. Call it the 5-2 spread

 

[Trihonda]

The denoms have been used everywere I have played in Norway, and it works over here.

We try to stay away from quarters and I think that is the main difference. The 10/50/100/500/1000 are more about synergy and is easier to count in 20's. Call it the 5-2 spread

Well, if they are the poker standard, that’s different. Carry on.

For the record, I play in a couple Home games where people insist in using crappy chip sets that came with 5/10/25/50/100 chips (for a Tournament), and insist on playing all the denoms, just because they don’t know better, AND it plays like crap. Too many different denominations on the table at one time... you get guys calling a 500 bet with 5x10 + 4x25 + 3x50 + 2x100.... so slow...

 

[IamMattDamon]

Well, if they are the poker standard, that’s different. Carry on.

For the record, I play in a couple Home games where people insist in using crappy chip sets that came with 5/10/25/50/100 chips (for a Tournament), and insist on playing all the denoms, just because they don’t know better, AND it plays like crap. Too many different denominations on the table at one time... you get guys calling a 500 bet with 5x10 + 4x25 + 3x50 + 2x100.... so slow...

Hehe, I would literally slap someone if that was a thing. It just works over here. 240 for instance is usually just 2x100 + 4x10 or 1x50.

If this was an american set the denoms would be 1d/5d/10d/50d/100d. Should work nicely at 1/2 or 2/5

 

[links_slayer]

If this was an american set the denoms would be 1d/5d/10d/50d/100d. Should work nicely at 1/2 or 2/5

There are very few casinos/cardrooms in the US that use $10 and $50 chips. $10 chips show up occasionally but as a matter of fact, $50 doesn't even show up as an option in the denom query in the ChipGuide (I was surprised by this).

Most sets in the US will use 1 / 5 / 20 or 25 / 100 / 500 / 1000+

As said, if the denoms you are using are standard in your area go nuts!

 

[SixSpeedFury]

@IamMattDamon I would inquire to the many designers here for inlay help. @p5woody, @Johnny5, @ttttubby, @AK Chip, etc.

 

[WedgeRock]

If this was an american set the denoms would be 1d/5d/10d/50d/100d. Should work nicely at 1/2 or 2/5

My head hurts.

How do I unsubscribe from a thread?

 

[IamMattDamon]

How about something like this?

 

[IamMattDamon]

My head hurts.

How do I unsubscribe from a thread?

Metric system ftw. We want none of your quarters up in here!

 

[Jeff]

I’m liking your progress! Samples, please!

The spot progression tradition is broken here (with two chips with the same spots and the simpler high denom). That the set doesn’t progress from low complexity to high complexity doesn’t tilt me as much as having two chips with the same spot configuration.

My preference is all the same spot or none of the same spot.

I agree with the prior observation that the denom looks a bit out of sync with the logo.

 

[WedgeRock]

I am asking for your input and advice.

Rule of thumb is to have each new denomination increase by 4 or 5x. A typical casino runs $1, $5, $25, $100, $500. Most Efficient. Less change making, and less confusion.

In the US we have a .05, .10, .25, .50, $1, $2, $5, $10, $20 etc... doesn’t mean that translates well to a poker game (or custom chips).

If this was an american set the denoms would be 1d/5d/10d/50d/100d.

Ask for input, get input on standard denoms, explain why non-standard denoms work for YOUR CURRENCY/GAME, then tell us that if it was an American set, you'd insist on using non-standard denoms.



Why even solicit advice?

I hope whatever you decide on works for you.

 

[monkeydog]

My head hurts.

How do I unsubscribe from a thread?

By not clicking the posts you don’t want to see - easy! Don’t want to read it, don’t!

Ask for input, get input on standard denoms, explain why non-standard denoms work for YOUR CURRENCY/GAME, then tell us that if it was an American set, you'd insist on using non-standard denoms.



Why even solicit advice?

I hope whatever you decide on works for you.

View attachment 142368

Asking for input is a two way street. He asked for help, members offered their opinions, he explained his reasoning for what he needs and new input was given. Everyone benefits - OP by getting good advice and the rest of us by learning about how things work in other countries.

Far too often it seems that a “newb” asks for help, a couple of members try to legitimately help only to be “out shouted” by the same couple of chipe expertz on the way things HAVE TO BE!!!

Not everything has to always be EXACTLY how it is in your game, or how it is in your area cardroom.

Without people trying new things we would all be sitting around playing 5 card draw.

The tone of this site is changing...starting to feel BLUE.

Sorry - end rant

PS - I miss jbutler and the other mia regs

 

[IamMattDamon]

Ask for input, get input on standard denoms, explain why non-standard denoms work for YOUR CURRENCY/GAME, then tell us that if it was an American set, you'd insist on using non-standard denoms.



Why even solicit advice?

I hope whatever you decide on works for you.

View attachment 142368

Sorry if I come off as ignorant, as that was not my intent at all here.
The denoms I have on the chips themself are the standard used in Norway for the stakes we play. It may seem odd or unusual for you guys, I do understand that as well.
I was considering to swap the 50 denom for a 25 denom, but that does not add up to min increment of 10's (for instance, someone would be able to raise to 85 when only 80/90 is allowed).

The only difference between the recommendation and what I have now is the small jump from 50 to 100. I have decided to not order the 1000 chip because I see that less numbers are better for the inlay design. Will just order more of the 500 chip.

I have taken the design advice into account though. Making some changes as we speak

 

[WedgeRock]

Without people trying new things we would all be sitting around playing 5 card draw.

I appreciate others insight and opinions. I appreciate learning how things work in Norway or how things work for a 10/20/40 game, neither of which I've ever played in...

I don't get the comment about how if this was an American set, he'd go with a denomination break down that doesn't work after it was explained to him why it wouldn't work.

 

[mike32]

By not clicking the posts you don’t want to see - easy! Don’t want to read it, don’t!



Asking for input is a two way street. He asked for help, members offered their opinions, he explained his reasoning for what he needs and new input was given. Everyone benefits - OP by getting good advice and the rest of us by learning about how things work in other countries.

Far too often it seems that a “newb” asks for help, a couple of members try to legitimately help only to be “out shouted” by the same couple of chipe expertz on the way things HAVE TO BE!!!

Not everything has to always be EXACTLY how it is in your game, or how it is in your area cardroom.

Without people trying new things we would all be sitting around playing 5 card draw.

The tone of this site is changing...starting to feel BLUE.

Sorry - end rant

PS - I miss jbutler and the other mia regs

Jbutler and friends were not always so nice. WedgeRock has been one of the most helpful people I know in real life and across several message boards we have participated in. He is a great guy, and I'm sure you are too monkeydog. I think sometimes typing things shows up on the screen as abrasive when it was not meant to be that way.

 

[Tommy]

The tone of this site is changing...starting to feel BLUE.

(y) :thumbsup:

 

[IamMattDamon]

Alright, some slight changes made to the font and coloring on the denominations.
Also made some slight adjustments to some of the chips. Any thoughts?

 

[Jambine]

The most regular game we spread is 10/20, which often is played 10/20/40 NLHE/ROE with a forced UTG straddle. Re-straddles to 80/160 and so forth is not uncommon here, so it makes things easier with less changing.

And yet, you have no 20's in your set. How about 5/20/100/500? Go heavy on the 20's

 

[Trihonda]

@IamMattDamon just a helpful suggestion, when posting multiple pics for people to review, I’d suggest inserting them full size, so people don’t have to click on them individually to inspect

Here’s how:

Secondly, once you have a full set created in the chip designer, you can save the entire set to a single image, so they can all be viewed in sequence and on the same plane/surface. People love to provide input (lots of great advice here), and if you’re doing a set design thread, folks are often used to seeing the chips together.

Like this (using my set as an example):

 

[MaxB]

View attachment 142376
(y) :thumbsup:

PSHHHHHH....there's only one Orange that matters in this world