Building two 60in round tables! (First tip - don't do it!) (1 Viewer)

RagingAZN

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I’m lucky enough to host a fortnightly NLHE game at my place. We always have two tables of 10 with a few on the waitlist.

So a little while ago, I built this -> https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/first-ellipse-build.110815/

…but as I’ve come to find out, big oval/ellipse tables are no good for self dealt games. Especially as my monkeys dealing gets worse through the night as they get more drunk!

I went to another game recently and played on a round table and loved it. So I did lots of research here and decided to make two round tables.

I found a timber store that does plywood in 3100mm x 1550mm and then got a CNC shop to cut it out for me.

I’m going with a 60” round, 6” wide rail, black vinyl for the rail and gold suited speed cloth for the playing surface. I had to get an auto shop to stitch the vinyl together for me as well.

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As this is now my 3rd build, everything went smoothly up until the rail.

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Doing a large round rail was one of the hardest things I’ve ever had to do. My back, knees and hands are sore (that could just be old age too). I used the split the difference method but trying to get it completely smooth was such a challenge. The first one didn’t turn out too badly but when I look at it closely I can see where we may not have pulled hard enough or there is a small wrinkle under the rail.

We took out a heap of staples and redid sections but I’m still not 100% happy. But with that being said, I think it will be more than adequate for my monkeys.


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That’s enough for today so come back tomorrow to check out progress folks!
 
Your work is outstanding!

Have you considered doing 8 individual rail section like what you see on a Triton table? Thoughts?
My only table I made was a 10 seater oval. I used no sections on the rail. Vinyl was one entire sheet so there was no stitching. I simply stapled the entire outside edge then cut an oval hole from the centre of the vinyl and stapled the inside edge. Was a right bitch to get the inside curve near perfectly smooth.
 
Your work is outstanding!

Have you considered doing 8 individual rail section like what you see on a Triton table? Thoughts?

Thank you, you’re too kind!

I haven’t seen a Triton in the flesh but to me they look quite ugly (sorry to everybody that has one!) Probably a much easier way to do a round build though.

Also, your username is fantastic by the way haha
 
Rail number 2 done! I’m glad the hard part is out of the way. This one went a lot smoother as we had more of an idea of what did and didn’t work.

- Use more staples than what you think!
- When doing the inner rail, cut as many sections as you can to make it easier.
- Pull as even as you can, you don’t need to pull with all your might, just a good amount.

Now just have to get the playing surface on and legs screwed in.

I tried this in another thread but is there any optimal placement for legs on a round table?

IMG_1096.jpeg
 
Thank you, you’re too kind!

I haven’t seen a Triton in the flesh but to me they look quite ugly (sorry to everybody that has one!) Probably a much easier way to do a round build though.

Also, your username is fantastic by the way haha
They r fantastic in person, but to each their own!
 
Nice work!
I just did a 54” round and re-did the rail multiple times. Still not as perfect as I would have liked, but wasn’t noticed at all by the players when I used it.
 
Looks great! I’m in the process of building a possibly 56” round table and was having a really hard time figuring out how I was going to get vinyl and rail foam in a big enough size. Most sheets I’ve found are all too narrow.
 
Looks great! I’m in the process of building a possibly 56” round table and was having a really hard time figuring out how I was going to get vinyl and rail foam in a big enough size. Most sheets I’ve found are all too narrow.

I can’t help you with getting a single piece of foam but I just went to a speciality foam store and they had big sheets. I have seen people piece foam together and then cover it with cotton batting.

But I would advise you to keep hunting for somewhere that sells large single sheets as its easier to work with.

As for the vinyl, you could get an auto upholsterer to stitch it together or you could try the following tip ->

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/54-inch-round-table-build-question.35874/post-659591

Let us know how you get on!
 
I can’t help you with getting a single piece of foam but I just went to a speciality foam store and they had big sheets. I have seen people piece foam together and then cover it with cotton batting.

But I would advise you to keep hunting for somewhere that sells large single sheets as its easier to work with.

As for the vinyl, you could get an auto upholsterer to stitch it together or you could try the following tip ->

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/54-inch-round-table-build-question.35874/post-659591

Let us know how you get on!
Thanks for the link! There was a post in that thread with a place to get sheets of foam big enough to cover it in one sheet. I think it should work.

I didn’t think of stitching 2 sheets of vinyl together until this thread but that might just work. The rail on a rectangle table is always the hardest part for me and I haven’t built one yet but a round one seems even harder
 
Thanks for the link! There was a post in that thread with a place to get sheets of foam big enough to cover it in one sheet. I think it should work.

I didn’t think of stitching 2 sheets of vinyl together until this thread but that might just work. The rail on a rectangle table is always the hardest part for me and I haven’t built one yet but a round one seems even harder

I’m not particularly handy but have managed to make a few tables now to a reasonable standard so I think you’ll be perfectly fine!

The below link was an invaluable resource so get reading if you haven’t already and feel free to ask as many questions as you need :cool


https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/poker-table-building-guides-tips-tricks.64206/
 
Can you post a photo of the legs?

I have a round table that I used an old dining table pedestal, but it's super wobbly.
 
These are the legs I used from HAFELE. They have a steel bracket which screws into the table and then the legs tighten within the bracket with an allen key.

Is your pedestal completely level? As well as your floor? We adjusted the table legs (they have a cap you can screw on/off to extend the legs) on some and it has made the table super sturdy.

You could try cross bracing under the table as well?

F55714A8-74ED-46A9-AAD4-D96DF2E37022.jpeg
 
These are the legs I used from HAFELE. They have a steel bracket which screws into the table and then the legs tighten within the bracket with an allen key.

Is your pedestal completely level? As well as your floor? We adjusted the table legs (they have a cap you can screw on/off to extend the legs) on some and it has made the table super sturdy.

You could try cross bracing under the table as well?

View attachment 1242221
Nice. Link by chance?

Yeah, I don't know if it's because it's on carpet why it's so wobbly. I braced it, which helped, but I don't like how it looks.
 
Nice. Link by chance?

Yeah, I don't know if it's because it's on carpet why it's so wobbly. I braced it, which helped, but I don't like how it looks.

https://www.totaloffice.co.nz/desk-frames/5920-hafele-table-leg-set.html

I’m quite far away from you so not sure if the above will help but that’s what I got.

Can you post a pic up of what your table looks like? If its a pedestal table, it should be quite sturdy unless the top might just be too big for the base perhaps?
 
Those legs are confusing the heck out of me. Does it have both a pedestal and folding legs?

When you say wobble, if you hit it horizontally on the rail, does it wobble from side to side? Or do you mean it tips over easily (up and down) when you apply a downwards force (like lean on the rail?)

I ask because at first glance, it looks as though that pedestal should be sturdy enough for that top.
 
I had just the pedestal and it was too wobbly. I added the folding legs and mounted them so they sit on the pedestal legs which made it sturdy, but looks like shit.
 
Those legs are confusing the heck out of me. Does it have both a pedestal and folding legs?

When you say wobble, if you hit it horizontally on the rail, does it wobble from side to side? Or do you mean it tips over easily (up and down) when you apply a downwards force (like lean on the rail?)

I ask because at first glance, it looks as though that pedestal should be sturdy enough for that top.
I took this table apart last night and discovered what was causing it to wobble.

When I mounted my base, I had to counter sink holes into the plywood to get the bolts attached. I noticed that I removed a fair amount of material which caused the plywood to pull apart. I have now glued the base to the pedestal and added some 3 inch screws which have seemed to help.

If it seems unsteady after next use, I'm going to scrap the pedestal and just use legs.
 

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