Design tool (2 Viewers)

[Dennis Stapleton]

Is there a design tool we can use for mockup with Tina chips, I only see one for Paulson on the forum, and the CPC site does not have the mold.

 

[QuailValley]

There kinda used to be an independent site that utilized the ACEs set and let you play with that. The problem is it didnt work very well, and was very limited in what you could actually do with it.

Having tried to design some from the ground up myself, what I recommend (unless you have lots of adobe experience), sketch up an idea of what you want and go to one of the experienced designers and have them help you out. Designing the chip faces isnt all that hard, but doing the edge parts and matching up any edge spots is a special kind of difficult.

You can certainly use the CPC and Paulson design tool to get an idea of what you want. As well as using inkscape to get a better idea of how it will all go together without too much investment.

 

[Hunter_Makoy]

I'm in the same boat and hoping I can use the paulson one here on the site and just say "do this one" but the problem is I don't see any actual specifics on the colors. It says stuff like "red", "dark green", but of course without any hex code or cmyk that's all very subjective.

 

[QuailValley]

So the information is sort of out there right now but its all over the place here are a few threads to check. Just FYI I kind of gave up on this and just ordered one of the designs from Broken Arrows group buy, and made my own custom inserts.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...e-for-the-alibaba-seller-cards-mold-gb.61718/

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-us-can-cards-mold.58260/page-97#post-1214304

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/paulson-cmyk-color-project.10486/#post-156505

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/compilation-of-identified-paulson-colors.60983/


Another way you can look at it is go to the broken arrow group buys and look at their designs. A lot of designers have spent a lot of time to create homage sets based on a lot of the classic paulson sets. You may can reference what the classic paulson set in the chipDB color used and then check what kind of color was used on the ceramic design. I have found simply asking some of the designers what color value they used they are generally pretty responsive and helpful.

 

[Hunter_Makoy]

Thanks! You are sure right about it being all over the place! I will start looking through those. I guess my most simple question is since both our third-party designed tools and would have to be converted, which would be better between the CPC and the possum one and what would be the most easily cross reference?

 

[QuailValley]

So at one point I tried creating a hex table for the Paulson colors. Tommy had done some work on it before I started (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/paulson-cmyk-color-project.10486/post-156505). I gave up, the reason is I was working off of screenshots which are super duper inaccurate. You need to have the colors in your hand under the proper light to really make matches.

So if you are serious about doing it you need to get reference chips in your hands (either a Paulson set or CPC set as well as a set of the china ceramic samples to match to). Renderings and pictures just do not do the chips justice and can create some inaccuracies when you actually get the chips in hand.

 

[Hunter_Makoy]

Yeah exactly. Or I would need to get the hex codes directly from them.

I've also not ever been involved on any of the group buys, so what I'm going to try to do is have my inlay designs, then have my chip designs at least as close as I can get them, and then send them to one of the designers here to check over. It could be that I select Royal Red because that's what I really like but because the color in the creator is slightly different I have to edit it somewhat.

IDK how to use the Aces style editor like I've seen on the group buy pages. I bet that would be the most accurate with the colors especially with ceramics.

 

[Hunter_Makoy]

So at one point I tried creating a hex table for the Paulson colors. Tommy had done some work on it before I started (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/paulson-cmyk-color-project.10486/post-156505). I gave up, the reason is I was working off of screenshots which are super duper inaccurate. You need to have the colors in your hand under the proper light to really make matches.

So if you are serious about doing it you need to get reference chips in your hands (either a Paulson set or CPC set as well as a set of the china ceramic samples to match to). Renderings and pictures just do not do the chips justice and can create some inaccuracies when you actually get the chips in hand.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-colors-converted-to-cmyk-rgb-pantone.119694/

this looks like it.

 

[QuailValley]

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-colors-converted-to-cmyk-rgb-pantone.119694/

this looks like it.

somehow I never saw this, thanks for the link. Glad what I did was helpful for someone.

 

[Colquhoun]

Also keep in mind that hex values are for what you see on your computer screen, in RGB. The inks or dyes used to print ceramic chips are either CMYK or 6-color (CMYK with added light cyan and light magenta). Labels are CMYK, I believe.
So, you’re never going to get an exact match. And even when you pick a perfect CMYK value, Tina’s printers aren’t exact either.

You’ll need to be a bit flexible on colors and be satisfied if they are “close enough”.

I’ve also found that Tina’s colors are relatively consistent from batch to batch, so if you have a sample of a Tina chip with a color you like, using the CMYK value of that one on future chips is the best practice. I have a bunch of samples and I re-use many colors when designing simply because I know what to expect in the final chip.

 

[Hunter_Makoy]

Also keep in mind that hex values are for what you see on your computer screen, in RGB. The inks or dyes used to print ceramic chips are either CMYK or 6-color (CMYK with added light cyan and light magenta). Labels are CMYK, I believe.
So, you’re never going to get an exact match. And even when you pick a perfect CMYK value, Tina’s printers aren’t exact either.

You’ll need to be a bit flexible on colors and be satisfied if they are “close enough”.

I’ve also found that Tina’s colors are relatively consistent from batch to batch, so if you have a sample of a Tina chip with a color you like, using the CMYK value of that one on future chips is the best practice. I have a bunch of samples and I re-use many colors when designing simply because I know what to expect in the final chip.

Yeah I get what you’re saying. What I’m trying to do is picture in which way the color will be off and then adjust accordingly. I’ll be able to use gimp to put in the hex code and then get cmyk from that.

And actually that chart has the cmyk and Pantone colors as well.

 

[Colquhoun]

Yeah I get what you’re saying. What I’m trying to do is picture in which way the color will be off and then adjust accordingly. I’ll be able to use gimp to put in the hex code and then get cmyk from that.

And actually that chart has the cmyk and Pantone colors as well.

But like I said, even when you find the color you love, Tina’s printers may not look exact. The blues and greens tend to be a bit more unpredictable than other colors. Good luck!

 

[Hunter_Makoy]

But like I said, even when you find the color you love, Tina’s printers may not look exact. The blues and greens tend to be a bit more unpredictable than other colors. Good luck!

Yeah I get what you are saying, and if its pure predictability than all I can do is find one I like and just hope for the best. Blue and green happen to be the ones I am haveing the hardest time deciding on as it is. lol

EDIT: a clarification on the Cherry in particular: I point that one out because I used to own a rack of the HSI primary 5s so I know what they look like in real life. So regardless of how things might appear on screen if Tina can accurately represent that color with those given cmyk values I'm all good.