Magnum Chaos // Colours and Edge spots (2 Viewers)

foreverdev

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Hi all, I'm still trying to figure out the inlay design, but it will be some version of a renaissance style sun with the proper denoms. So I'd like to focus on the colours and the edge spots for now. The denoms from left to right will be 5c, 25c, $1, $5, $25, and $100. I'd like to have games running from 5c/10c to 50c/1$. I realize I'm shifting classic denom colours, like black and white into 1$ and 25c respectively. Is it too confusing for players? Also, it will like be on web mold TINA, not CSQ as seen. I'm interested to hear feedback, thank you!
PHOTO-2024-10-18-23-57-23.jpg
 
I'm a fan of the mono-tone spots on the chips... definitely good for an old-school feel. Also works well when more muted colors are being used.

Presuming these will be quarter/half/dollar/etc. (hooray #teamblackdollar if I read this right!), why are you wasting the more elaborate and interesting spots on the chips that will see the felt the least?? In the last few years I have become a proponent of what I call the Gaussian spot progression where the most detailed/interesting spots are on the chips that will see the felt the most often... your workhorse chips. I did this with my Devil's Nest chips:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/a-d-s-devils-nest-cpc-customs.78031/

This is a case where I knew the $1 chip (well, 100 cenz used here) would be the one on the felt the most. They get the "best" spots, and they become less "interesting" as you move away from them in value. The "traditional" spot progression where the highest value chips get the crazy spots is something we chippers invented before I got into this game and wished I had ignored that in my previous custom designs.

You are lucky here as you are making Tina ceramics, so there is no price difference from one spot level to the next like there is with a CPC set, so let loose, go crazy (within the contraints of your design concept) and break with the group-think and put spots on chips in places where you will get to enjoy them the most when they are in play!


Nice start for an old-school feeling set. Curious to see where you go with the inlay design and how that interacts with the color/spot choices you make. :tup:
 
check out the new members start here post, can find a link in my signature, and I would only use white for 1s or 100s only, maybe 20s ;)
 
Monochrome base for 2 of your workhorse chips will look rather plain. They also might be confusing for those used to a standard colour progression (although if you have denoms clearly labelled and verbal announcement of bets and raises then there are less issues overall). The repetition of colours among base and edge spots so close together risks dirty stacks as well.

In other words, I think you might have to rethink everything. Except the sun inlay looks nice!
 
I'm a fan of the mono-tone spots on the chips... definitely good for an old-school feel. Also works well when more muted colors are being used.

Presuming these will be quarter/half/dollar/etc. (hooray #teamblackdollar if I read this right!), why are you wasting the more elaborate and interesting spots on the chips that will see the felt the least?? In the last few years I have become a proponent of what I call the Gaussian spot progression where the most detailed/interesting spots are on the chips that will see the felt the most often... your workhorse chips. I did this with my Devil's Nest chips:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/a-d-s-devils-nest-cpc-customs.78031/

This is a case where I knew the $1 chip (well, 100 cenz used here) would be the one on the felt the most. They get the "best" spots, and they become less "interesting" as you move away from them in value. The "traditional" spot progression where the highest value chips get the crazy spots is something we chippers invented before I got into this game and wished I had ignored that in my previous custom designs.

You are lucky here as you are making Tina ceramics, so there is no price difference from one spot level to the next like there is with a CPC set, so let loose, go crazy (within the contraints of your design concept) and break with the group-think and put spots on chips in places where you will get to enjoy them the most when they are in play!


Nice start for an old-school feeling set. Curious to see where you go with the inlay design and how that interacts with the color/spot choices you make. :tup:
Thanks so much for your feedback! Love your devils nest set! I agree. The reason I’m using the black dollar is because I like the black chip and I want the best looking chips to be the workhorses. I’m going to experiment more with this. Onwards!
 
Monochrome base for 2 of your workhorse chips will look rather plain. They also might be confusing for those used to a standard colour progression (although if you have denoms clearly labelled and verbal announcement of bets and raises then there are less issues overall). The repetition of colours among base and edge spots so close together risks dirty stacks as well.

In other words, I think you might have to rethink everything. Except the sun inlay looks nice!
thanks!
 
check out the new members start here post, can find a link in my signature, and I would only use white for 1s or 100s only, maybe 20s ;)
The white as a 25c was intentional against accepted norms I’m aware but perhaps its too much of a stretch. I’ve read the new members post, but I’m not sure what you’re alluding to. Thanks for the feedback
 
The white as a 25c was intentional against accepted norms I’m aware but perhaps its too much of a stretch. I’ve read the new members post, but I’m not sure what you’re alluding to. Thanks for the feedback
Its not accepted norms, its a standard set by the Nevada gaming commission. due to the Vegas standard, white fracs will typically cause issues if you use them for anything other than a 1 or 100, but recently we seen a set with a denom 20 and it seems like it would fine.
 
That would look lively hotstamped....
Would be a great idea if it was going on a CPC chip, but OP is going with Tina.

Have you tried out the Paulson chip designer? They give you much more color options than CPC. Might be helpful since you plan on getting this done through Tina.
 
Would be a great idea if it was going on a CPC chip, but OP is going with Tina.

Have you tried out the Paulson chip designer? They give you much more color options than CPC. Might be helpful since you plan on getting this done through Tina.
I have tried in the past but I felt like it was less user friendly. I’ll definitely go back to it thank you!
 

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