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Found Man down - single Aztar MO Pri $25 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jamesjkim
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OP
OP
jamesjkim
Flush
Was lightly oiling them after the ultrasonic and it literally snapped off like a soft cookie and with very little pressure...
BigSlick4523
4 of a Kind
Anyone think US on older chips is prob not a good idea with the water being so hot ?Was lightly oiling them after the ultrasonic and it literally snapped off like a soft cookie and with very little pressure...
Never used one I got 2 of them but never used them lol
OP
OP
jamesjkim
Flush
Yeah, definitely something to consider. The chips needed oil (as most do) after the US. I think more used condition chips are more susceptible to cracking.
AWenger
Full House
Alternatively -- if it's a clean break, I've had success using superglue to glue a chip back together. Just use the smallest amount possible so it doesn't get on other surfaces of the chip when squeezing the two parts back together.
Not sure what you mean by "so hot". Keep the water around 38-40 °C (100-105 °F) and it'll be fine.
OP
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jamesjkim
Flush
That's what I've done but it's no longer flat unfortunately (didn't go fully back together)... will keep it as a backup to the backup to the backup of the backup... capper.
Exactly, though I always run mine between 110-115˚F (per my original Ultrasonic Chip Cleaning topic). I’ve cleaned something over 75,000 Paulsons (and a bunch of others for a grand total well over 100k), and never had a problem.
Clearly, this crack was caused by the OP, who in a fit of rage upon realizing he failed to properly clean the chip (see photo below highlighting the black gook left in the ring, took his anger out on the chip.
STOP DOMESTIC VIOLENCE AGAINST CASINO CHIPS!
Silliness aside, I highly suspect there was a pre-existing crack (or cracks) in the chip between the yellow and purple spot on the bottom of the photo, and between the yellow spot and the main chip green toward the top of the photo.
You’re absolutely right to be concerned about temperatures if you’re running higher temps than recommended in the original Ultrasonic Chip Cleaning topic. I could easily believe that throwing room temperature chips into very hot cleaning solution, followed by throwing the hot chips into cold (how cold?) water, could cause an existing crack to propagate.
That said, you *might* be interested in a couple of “soak only” cleaning processes/solutions that I’m working on (discussed in recent posts in the Ultrasonic Chip Cleaning topic). However, they can’t be used on Paulson Purple, Grape (and similar) or Grey or Showboat Grey without *significantly* lightening (NOT fading) those specific colors. So, these soak only solutions wouldn’t be appropriate for the spot colors on your Aztar $25s.
Back to your request, @jamesjkim, I don’t think I have one of those chips, but I did used to own one or more racks of them, so I’ll scour my extras and singles to see if by chance I still have one.
OP
OP
jamesjkim
Flush
You’re probably right on all accounts. It is a bit suspicious where the chip cracked (edge of edge spots). Appreciate you trying to look for an extra for me!
Superglue (cyanoacrylate) can work, but it works significantly better on smooth surfaces like glass (it works by increasing surface tension).
IF it’s possible to VERY GENTLY clamp the broken chip pieces together, you’ll find that simple Elmer’s white glue, or carpenter’s glue, will do a better job. You’ll also have no risk of spillage of super glue on the chip face that can’t be removed. White and carpenter’s glue work by seeping into porous surfaces, and then hardening. The strength of the glued joint increases *dramatically* if the glued pieces are clamped while the glue dries.
- Test/practice clamping the broken chip pieces together.
- Once you’re confident in the clamping method/position, separate the pieces and apply as thin a layer as possible of glue to both sides of the broken chip.
- Clamp the broken chip pieces together.
- Excess glue will of course be squeezed out. Wipe this excess with a damp paper towel.
- Leave the chip clamped overnight.
upNdown
Royal Flush
Is THAT why casinos never clean their filthy sticky chips? Do they know something we don’t?
this is fascinating. I’ll take a look. But I wonder what is the difference between fading and lightening. Are you saying that “fading” is just the wrong word?
Absolutely zero offense intended, and I’d NEVER say that any process couldn’t be improved. However, there is good reason for ALL of the specifics in the Ultrasonic Chip Cleaning topic.
Power and dual transducer type ultrasonic unit, Lundmark “TSP”, *distilled* water, temperatures, times, etc. were all chosen for a reason, after trying a *lot* of different things.
BTW, I have a lot of St. Jo Frontier chips, and they are FAMOUS for having a ton of cracks that were caused by someone using too much pressure when applying the cancellation hot stamp. Even those made it though ultrasonic cleaning without any casualties. In addition to potential temperature induced stresses, your chip might have experienced some other form of physical impact/force prior to being cleaned.
Excellent question, and I’ll try to answer.
Are you familiar with the HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance) method of specifying colors? If not, hopefully the three words are familiar. Anyway, to be picky…
- “Fading” is a reduction of a color’s Saturation.
- “Lightening” is an increase in a color’s Luminance.
So… anyway… yes. I am going to CHIPPERS HELL for sort of ruining an Empress primary $1 chip. (Actually, I think it’s better looking than the original Paulson Grape, but it’s not original!)
upNdown
Royal Flush
This is all Greek to me. But I’m interested.
And for whatever it’s worth, I don’t have a problem with sacrificing chips in the name of science. We hypocrites draw imaginary lines - there’s mine.
@jamesjkim - Bad news. I checked my chip inventory to confirm that I once owned a rack of those Aztar primary $25s, so I looked through my racks of extras for my playable sets. My monkey brain was briefly excited when I saw three day green Casablanca $25s with similar spot colors from overhead. (OK, maybe a little longer than “briefly”… I was already typing an “I got you” reply when I finally realized my three “C” $25s are not *your* “C” $25s.) 
Anyway, if by chance you can’t find another primary Aztar $25, I could send you one of these green textured inlay Casa $25s if you find it an acceptable surrogate (photo from ChipGuide - mine aren’t notched):
Anyway, if by chance you can’t find another primary Aztar $25, I could send you one of these green textured inlay Casa $25s if you find it an acceptable surrogate (photo from ChipGuide - mine aren’t notched):
OP
OP
jamesjkim
Flush
No worries at all! I'll keep you posted. Appreciate the help!@jamesjkim - Bad news. I checked my chip inventory to confirm that I once owned a rack of those Aztar primary $25s, so I looked through my racks of extras for my playable sets. My monkey brain was briefly excited when I saw three day green Casablanca $25s with similar spot colors from overhead. (OK, maybe a little longer than “briefly”… I was already typing an “I got you” reply when I finally realized my three “C” $25s are not *your* “C” $25s.)
Anyway, if by chance you can’t find another primary Aztar $25, I could send you one of these green textured inlay Casa $25s if you find it an acceptable surrogate (photo from ChipGuide - mine aren’t notched):
View attachment 1372567
These 3 did the exact same thing but without the US first. Thought maybe they fractured in shipping & the oiling message was the final straw.
Bummer. I never owned any, but I always liked the Paulson Pharaohs. Yeah, I think you’re right about probable shipping damage, as none of the cracks run along the interface between spots and main chip color.
Make absolutely sure you thoroughly clean the chips to remove any oil before you attempt to glue them back together.
OP
OP
jamesjkim
Flush
Thank you!!
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