Paul's Frankenstein Table Project (1 Viewer)

[FDLmold]

You may have seen a couple threads where I discussed buying these:

First was $25 and a 20 minute drive for the guy on the right. Craigslist.

Sturdy, heavy. Tabletop and player trays are very thin, but the rest isn't bad. I wanted a table I can set up and tear down in a few minutes, then store pretty easily. It fits the description. And the legs are sturdy enough. But I think I can do better, and I'd hate to sit with one of those in my crotch all night.

Second was $20 and a 5 minute drive for the other table. Facebook marketplace. Found another similar piece on LetGo, but it was too far away.

Oak. Sturdy. Adjustable height thingamajig on each of the four feet. Great deal, and I feel bad about the tabletop, because I just want the pedestal. More to come...

 

[FDLmold]

So more about the first table. The legs look like this.

They are firmly attached to the frame and not loose. But those mechanisms are corroded (table probably stored in humidity), and despite still working, I don't like them much. I know enough chemistry to clean them, but with my new pedestal, why bother? So off they went. (I ran out of daylight, bad pic sorry)

Here is a closeup of one mechanism and the aftermath of demolition.

My remaining problems are simple except for one slightly cracked faux cupholder.

That was it on this table today. The next step is to pop the top off and probably build a new one. While that is going on, I can sand or stain or refinish or modify the rest. Soon...

 

[FDLmold]

How lucky did I get with the pedestal? Ha ha ha, let me tell you.

Six screws and a little jimmying to break a weak gluing attempt and the top came right off.

And now revealed are four bolts, with nuts and washers, just waiting for me to build a new bracket to hold the other tabletop.

It was a good first day of futzing around. I probably have a good home for the tabletop, I am in good with the local high school wood shop teacher. It's oak, I don't want to trash that. The table legs and hardware from the first table? Those I am less sure of. They may end up in the same place with the high school wood shop. The legs are good solid wood, not sure what kind.

 

[Poker Zombie]

Can't wait to see where this goes. All my tables are Frankenstein's, so this ought to be good.

 

[justsomedude]

I hope you'll be adding more drink holders.

 

[Wils]

View attachment 107461

It's a bit small. Aren't you at least going to felt it up?

 

[Kyle]

Thanks for sharing this. I really like that 1st vintage table. My buddy had one and we played on it all the time in high school and college. Will be great to see when you finish it.

 

[FDLmold]

I hope you'll be adding more drink holders.

For sure. I need at least three myself. The one I'm drinking, the one I'm about to drink, and the one I'm thinking about drinking after that.

 

[Poker Zombie]

I like the way you drink think.

 

[FDLmold]

Thread revival! I removed the vinyl surface with the intent to remove the playing surface and resurface it.

Two problems. First, the surface is held on by 12 nails and 30 staples. It's not coming off without getting destroyed.

Second, the vinyl that covered the surface was tucked into that channel you see in the second picture. If I just recover the surface, that channel will be exposed and collect crap and look like crap.

New plan!

I'll put thin felt on the original surface (41" across) since it is sunk down just slightly compared to the channel around it. Then I'll cut a new slightly larger surface (say 43" across, 1/2 to 3/4 inch thickness or so) from new lumber. It will be large enough to cover the old surface AND the channel. I'll then mount it to the top.

 

[dkersey]

I bought one of those octagonal tables a while back off of CL. Its a great table. I put speed cloth over the surface and it worked great. Yes, getting the cloth into that channel was precarious but doable. I had to occasional stretch/tuck the fabric back in though.

While the table is strong, the sunken area in front each player was great for food and such, but not for chips. When the chips are there, it hides the chips from other players, which I didn't feel was fair/right. If you didn't allow that, then the chips are way out in front and kind of in your way all the time.

I sold the table on CL. However, if I could do it again, I'd keep the table and build a platform within each section to make it level with the playing surface. Or perhaps build a platform over the whole outer area making it level. This would cover up the cup holder areas, which had limited functionality anyway.

Something else to think about...

 

[upNdown]

I refelted an old octagon, and some other people chimed in with their similar old octagon projects. I'm still thinking about building a rail for it, like @Meddler2 did - that could work for yours as well.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-bumper-pool-table-cover-card-surfaces.16118/

 

[FDLmold]

This table will be a perfect board gaming table. The player trays will be useful for all sorts of stuff.

For poker, obviously the chips and cards have to be on the surface at all times. If that becomes an issue it will not be a problem to make 8 inserts covered in similar fabric so nobody can hide things.

 

[Poker Zombie]

Just make sure the insert still leaves you with some rail, so chips don't run away. I have one "low-rail" table, and although it's never been an actual problem, it is always a concern I have playing at it. My low rail is 4"-4.5" though, so it provides a "warning track" - to keep stacks/huge raked piles clear of the edge.

 

[FDLmold]

If I add a 45” diameter octagon, 1/2” thickness, to the top of this, do I need to secure it to the base, or will it be just fine sitting on top?

 

[Jeff]

SSC or felt on thin closed cell foam on octagonal 1/4 inch plywood? Then attach to the center?

 

[FDLmold]

SSC or felt on thin closed cell foam on octagonal 1/4 inch plywood? Then attach to the center?

1/2” more likely. Don’t want staples poking through the 1/4”.

 

[Poker Zombie]

A tabletop sitting on top of a table top starts getting weird. You can feel like a little kid sitting at a table that is too big for you. Stack 1/2" wood (or more if you plan to add a rail) and do something at that table (eat dinner or play a game). You may realize that after a while you get fatigued from constantly reaching that extra 1/2" or more higher.

If you add a topper, make it as thin as possible.

 

[FDLmold]

Today was a quick Lowe’s and Walmart trip. Got the 3M 77 everybody recommends and my new table top. Remember the felt goes under the new top and will not be visible.

 

[FDLmold]

I am going to order foam and fabric from YAT by the end of the week. What foam does everybody get for the surface? I am thinking some shade of green suited speed cloth. That should be very functional and look nice.

 

[Buddha]

I am going to order foam and fabric from YAT by the end of the week. What foam does everybody get for the surface?

Most either get the 1/4 Volara or 1/4 HD foam that is listed under the playing surface foams on YAT website. Don't forget to use promo code scottkeen for 15% off your order from YAT, unless your order is big enough to qualify for one of their other offers.

 

[v1pe]

Today was a quick Lowe’s and Walmart trip. Got the 3M 77 everybody recommends and my new table top. Remember the felt goes under the new top and will not be visible.

View attachment 159247View attachment 159248View attachment 159249

Three Kingdoms and FCM - you must enjoy the heavies

 

[v1pe]

I am going to order foam and fabric from YAT by the end of the week. What foam does everybody get for the surface? I am thinking some shade of green suited speed cloth. That should be very functional and look nice.

I recently put the Emerald Green SSC on a table - looks really nice IMO.

 

[FDLmold]

Three Kingdoms and FCM - you must enjoy the heavies

I bought Die Macher, second German edition, when it first came out. Have been hooked on the good modern heavies ever since, so about 20 years now.

 

[Meddler2]

If I add a 45” diameter octagon, 1/2” thickness, to the top of this, do I need to secure it to the base, or will it be just fine sitting on top?

I never had a problem with my rail just resting on the top. Not once. Remember you'll gonna have lots of arms resting/leaning on it to hold it in place.

 

[FDLmold]

I like that drop-in rail. I will probably end up making one.

At any rate, I am buying fabric and chairs this week. YAT sells three shades of green SSC. Pine, Emerald, Forest.

https://www.yourautotrim.com/hcasucl.html

Which of them seems to best match the color of this chair?



It looks like pine, maybe. I am not sure it matters.

 

[pre0024]

To my eye Forest Green is the color match.

The pine green is going to be a fair bit lighter and brighter. May even clash with the chair imo.

Could play off the chair frame color and do something in the bronze or gold cloth color as well.

Nice looking chair!

 

[Poker Zombie]

I agree with Pre: I wouldn't try to match the chair to speedcloth. Too great a chance that they will be off a bit and clash. Best to get samples first (YAT sells a complete set of swatches for $5 or less). Then lay those on the chair and see what looks best.

 

[FDLmold]

The chair color I am probably firm on. The table can be anything. Would another SSC color, like a burgundy or a gray, still look good on the table?

 

[FDLmold]

And people really like the whisper vinyl for rail material, right? A sample of that for $2 seems like a no brainer.