Round/Octagon Tables Over 48" (1 Viewer)

Buddha

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Just curious about what you do for the base and the rail? I am considering a second, likely round table, and have just about settled on ~ 56" round table, which would give ~22" per seat 8 handed, with the ability to squeeze 9, if we want it tight (just under 20"/person).

Now, the obvious choice, plywood, comes in 4x8 sheets, not ideal for for something greater than 48". I have been doing a bit of searching, and have come across scarf joints (easy enough in theory, but would require some sort of jig), the thought of laminating 2x4s that are ripped in half was a thought, to get a surface big enough to cut a 56" circle from. It seems that end joinery with dowels could work, but a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood doesn't give you much room, especially since it is not solid lumber such as a 2x4, but rather layers.

I have found a store within driving distance that does have baltic birch ply in 60x60 sheets, which are ideal, but ~1/2 sheet is $32, while 3/4 is $60. I think 2 sheets of 3/4 would be overkill (rail cutout will be used as 2nd table layer), and a bit more $$. Two 1/2" sheets could be had for the 3/4 price, and would allow for a table surface of ~1". For a round table on a pedestal type base, does that give enough strength, or would it be better to do 3/4" for the surface, 1/2" for the rail?
 
If you’re not set on building the whole thing, keep an eye on Craigslist and Nextdoor for someone selling a round table with the right diameter. I ended up with a 54” round with a decent pedestal for $25. Plan to build a two piece rail out of regular 4x8 and off to the races.
 
I used 1/2 a pingpong table to form the play surface on my 56" octagon. I wouldn't stand on it, but it has been a satisfactory table for over 10 years now. Cheap and readily available via Cragslist / Facebook marketplace / Letgo / et.al.
 
I have found a store within driving distance that does have baltic birch ply in 60x60 sheets, which are ideal, but ~1/2 sheet is $32, while 3/4 is $60. I think 2 sheets of 3/4 would be
No question what I would do if it was me. That's half the price of what it cost around here. If you go 2 sheets and put the cut out on bottom, it would serve double duty for table dancers too (no kidding). Save yourself time and headache and just get the Baltic birch
 
No question what I would do if it was me. That's half the price of what it cost around here. If you go 2 sheets and put the cut out on bottom, it would serve double duty for table dancers too (no kidding). Save yourself time and headache and just get the Baltic birch

So no doubt you would go with 3/4"? Regardless of 3/4" or 1/4", doubling up the rail cutout seems natural to me. Just seems crazy the double price difference from 1/2" sheet to 3/4" sheet.
 
Go 3/4" 60x60 for the table top, and put your rail together from pieces cut from 1/4" or 1/2" 4x8 plywood.

Best and cheapest option, imo.

I'd double up on the the rail, so you need eight 90 degree overlapping quarter-arcs. Screwed together, you won't be able to tell it isn't one solid piece.
 
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Go 3/4" 60x60 for the table top, and put your rail together from pieces cut from 1/4" or 1/2" 4x8 plywood.

Best and cheapest option, imo.

I'd double up on the the rail, so you need eight 90 degree overlapping quarter-arcs. Screwed together, you won't be able to tell it isn't one solid piece.

Just an FYI, I was given an 8-foot oval made entirely from 3/4" ply. That thing is a BEAST - it weighs well in excess of 100 pounds, and I can barely set it up by myself.

I think @BGinGA's idea is a good one - 3/4" on the tabletop only and lighter ply for the rest. It should be a good compromise between stability and weight.
 
Just an FYI, I was given an 8-foot oval made entirely from 3/4" ply. That thing is a BEAST - it weighs well in excess of 100 pounds, and I can barely set it up by myself.

That I can understand as I have and build an 88" or so oval out of 2 sheets of 3/4 (rail cutout screwed to the bottom). I built, moved, and set it up by myself so I can attest to the heft.
 

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