Tina longevity/durability? (1 Viewer)

dylanthepiguy2

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I'm in New Zealand and it's really hard to find a good step. I'm actually wondering about going the Tina route but considering the investment, I want it to last. How good is the print quality after some heavy use, or after several years worth of use?
 
I'm in New Zealand and it's really hard to find a good step. I'm actually wondering about going the Tina route but considering the investment, I want it to last. How good is the print quality after some heavy use, or after several years worth of use?
Following. I have two sets but they don't get much play. After a few games they still look brand new at least.
 
I'm just worried about shuffling wearing out the print. Especially after years worth of shuffling.
This will happen with any ceramic chip. You see this in casino chips, but unless you have a group of very aggressive chip shufflers and are using them daily (like in a casino), I'd expect quite a long time before you see this in a home environment.
 
I'm in New Zealand and it's really hard to find a good step. I'm actually wondering about going the Tina route but considering the investment, I want it to last. How good is the print quality after some heavy use, or after several years worth of use?
I have a set of card molds Taj Majals from Justin. I had ordered a rack of nickels and a barrel came as blue .25s so he replaced them for me. Since I won’t be using them, I have been religiously shuffling them day in and day out during meetings that should have been emails for three months now.

They are starting to show a little wear but I can tell you this barrel has been abused by me being dropped on the floor multiple, multiple times. No chipping, no cracking, no breaking.

For normal home use, I think it’s safe to say you can expect years of use from them.
 
If you see any wear it would indeed be years down the road , I have a barrel of 43mm Greek mold chips that are standing tall under constant use, 6 months now and they stack level with a mint barrel and I would dare you to tell me if you could see which barrel is which mint or heaving shuffled for 6 months
 
Original cards mold definitely had members here posting about the surface texture breaking down. However, those same members also said that the no molds were far superior in terms of durability. So I don't think it's a good idea to group all Tina chips in the same category.

I personally have a few cards mold sets, but they have each only seen play a few times. They're still looking and feeling new.

But if it's going to be your only set, and you're going to play weekly, I might be a little concerned.

But other molds like web mold, they could wear totally differently.
 
I’ve had 6 tournaments with mine and they still look brand new. Unless your guests are abusing them, they should last for years.
 
I would like to know if any of the chips/molds are solid colors all the way through. I have some web mold samples...one fell off the table and has a chip in it now revealing an all white core so it looks pretty ugly. I guess, if anything, it's worth buying extras if you get a set so you can just throw away damaged chips over time.
 
I would like to know if any of the chips/molds are solid colors all the way through. I have some web mold samples...one fell off the table and has a chip in it now revealing an all white core so it looks pretty ugly. I guess, if anything, it's worth buying extras if you get a set so you can just throw away damaged chips over time.
All ceramic chips start out as a white blank. All colors and designs are applied using dye-sublimation, and this is done by first printing (4-color or 6-color process) the design with edgespots in reverse on a paper backing. The white chip blanks are laid out on a heat press with large heated pads, and the printed paper sheet laid on top. Under light pressure and heat, the ink is a transferred to the chip.
It’s also important to note that the ink doesn’t just sit on the surface of the chip, it sinks below, so that even with some wear, the color still shows true. It’s only under heavy wear (more than you're ever likely to create with a home game) or breakage that you see the white from the underlying blank.
It’s always recommended to buy extras of each denom for accidents, incorrect printing, etc., and that goes for any chipset…ceramic, clay, etc.
 
All ceramic chips start out as a white blank. All colors and designs are applied using dye-sublimation, and this is done by first printing (4-color or 6-color process) the design with edgespots in reverse on a paper backing. The white chip blanks are laid out on a heat press with large heated pads, and the printed paper sheet laid on top. Under light pressure and heat, the ink is a transferred to the chip.
It’s also important to note that the ink doesn’t just sit on the surface of the chip, it sinks below, so that even with some wear, the color still shows true. It’s only under heavy wear (more than you're ever likely to create with a home game) or breakage that you see the white from the underlying blank.
It’s always recommended to buy extras of each denom for accidents, incorrect printing, etc., and that goes for any chipset…ceramic, clay, etc.
Well, all I can say is that I don't trust the longevity/durability of these chips given I dropped a sample one time from the table to a wooden floor and it has a small chip exposing white. I would be annoyed if I had a set of these.

I thought I had seen pics somewhere recently of some China clays broken in half and there was color throughout the middle of the broken chip, but they definitely weren't TINA's and maybe they are crappy feeling and have their own issues.
 
Well, all I can say is that I don't trust the longevity/durability of these chips given I dropped a sample one time from the table to a wooden floor and it has a small chip exposing white. I would be annoyed if I had a set of these.

I thought I had seen pics somewhere recently of some China clays broken in half and there was color throughout the middle of the broken chip, but they definitely weren't TINA's and maybe they are crappy feeling and have their own issues.
You sound like a good candidate for essentially unbreakable plastic or metal poker chips. Good luck with stacking those.
 
Well, all I can say is that I don't trust the longevity/durability of these chips given I dropped a sample one time from the table to a wooden floor and it has a small chip exposing white. I would be annoyed if I had a set of these.

I thought I had seen pics somewhere recently of some China clays broken in half and there was color throughout the middle of the broken chip, but they definitely weren't TINA's and maybe they are crappy feeling and have their own issues.
I think your over analyzing it. Any quality chip dropped on a hard surface of any kind can result in damage of some kind. Again if that is a deal breaker then dice chips are your future.
 
I thought I had seen pics somewhere recently of some China clays broken in half and there was color throughout the middle of the broken chip, but they definitely weren't TINA's and maybe they are crappy feeling and have their own issues.
China clays will have a consistent color throughout the base chip, as they are very different animals than ceramics. They are generally going to be less durable and less customizable. There are pros and cons with each.
 
ok it looks like shipping from the NZ to AU will cost almost as much as US to NZ.

I’m about to grab some samples and then have a go at designing some chips so it’ll be several months before I get around to buying a set
 

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