What card characteristics are most important to you? Pet peeves? (1 Viewer)

[Poker Zombie]

As far as I know, no. However, according to Modiano it never happened. That level of deniability (despite the evidence) leads me to believe that it could easily have happened in other card runs.

It's like going to a bank that says "We lost all the money you deposited with us. We deny any accountability, despite your proof of deposit." Why would you ever use them again?

 

[Poker Zombie]

Card sorting?... You afraid that Phil Yvey will visit your home game?

But seriously I know for the fact that KEMs sells cards with minor defects as so called "seconds". Someone from PCF bought them second hand as premium cards. So "caviar emptor".

Not card sorting, color discrepancies. I am no Phil Ivey, but I could easily identify a number of cards face down - and I use jumbo index because regular index is too hard for me to read.

 

[TheBigTater]

As far as I know, no. However, according to Modiano it never happened. That level of deniability (despite the overwhelming evidence) leads me to believe that it could easily have happened in other card runs.

It's like going to a bank that says "We lost all the money you deposited with us. We deny any accountability, despite your proof of deposit." Why would you ever use them again?

FYP

(you knew I was going to post it)

 

[Dix]

When you pick cards to use, what characteristics are most important to you?

#1 - DEAL-ABILITY - In other words, how much attention do I have to pay to dealing? Can I pitch these things one at a time without even thinking about it? Or are they more like the worst offenders on the planet in that regard... Faded Spade. The finish coating on FS decks seems to make them want to hang together like they have their own gravity fields. Coming off the top of the deck 2 (& sometimes even 3) at a time with regularity. Separating the top card from it's neighbor is sometimes a more difficult process than taking my dog's favorite toy away. Which sucks, because I genuinely love the unique design & the index font.

On that note, many of my favorite decks in this department also suffer from the biggest pet-peeve of many.... "top card float". As a dealer, I LOVE decks where the top card just floats off the top. Those are the decks where pitching 2 cards at a time accidentally is pretty much a non-existent event.

#2 - POKER SIZE JUMBO INDEX - Jumbo index because I'm on the north side of 50 & still like to be able to read the upcards of the guy in seat #2 when I'm in seat #7 or #8 while playing Stud. Poker size because I own a ShuffleTech & love it. Again, being on the north side of 50, I now no longer have to OD on Aspirin to keep my hands from cramping from a long night of shuffling.

#3 - FLEX - This has slipped to #3 on the list since I became a ShuffleTech owner. That said however, it seems that even the shuffler doesn't care much for stiff/heavy cards. Also a gripe with Faded Spade as they're amongst the stiffest cards on the planet as well. With Bullets being not too far off that particular crime.

Of course a more flexible card isn't going to have the "snap" many of the cork-sniffer lot tout as being a great quality. Snap shmap, what the h*ll is "snap" worth? Does the d*mn thing still return to flat after repeated hole card peeking? If the answer to that question is "yes", then who gives a flying you-know-what if it goes "snap"? I'm not paying a Cellulose Acetate price for a cheap, thick, heavy piece of PVC just because it goes "snap". An equally priced CA deck will last twice as long. And, is easier to shuffle & deal to boot. I've got 10 year-old Desjgn decks that are still playable today. Oh, but they don't go "snap"... what a shame.

#4 - GENERAL FEEL/FINISH - It's no big secret my favorite finish is what I call "linen". Mostly because linen finish decks tend to be the best at category #1 - Deal-ability (also usually the best/worst in "top card float"). Lesser finishes tend to be on the slickery side of things, then quickly progressing to getting sticky. (Ace, Cartamundi Classic, Ritz, Royal) While thicker/coarser finishes just feel weird & tend to lead to deal-ability issues.

#5 - DURABILITY - Simple.... how long is that deck going to last? On that note, cellulose acetate beats the snot out of PVC as a general rule. But then, CA does come at a price. It's simply a more expensive material than toilet plumbing. PVC is also a harder material than CA, which means it's also more brittle. Try to match the flex of a CA card with PVC (ala: Copag) & you need to make the base stock so thin this becomes an issue (which also explains the occasional paper-cut).

Are there certain things that just bug you that make a card a no-go for your game?

Covered a couple of them above, but also on the "Pet Peeve" list..... The Italian Fat Spade.

This seems to be something unique to the two Italian brands, but why on earth they're carbon-copies of each other in making a spade look like its in dire need of an intervention from Jenny Craig I have no idea.

Unlike some players at the WSOP, I've never mistaken a Modiano or Dal Negro spade for a club or vice-versa. However, that said I can see how it might happen (especially playing Stud) if using a standard index deck & you don't look carefully.

This is really a shame too. Because Modiano's "Texas Poker" line would be among my favorite decks if it weren't for that. (Which is the stock the old Desjgns were produced on).

Another possibly unpopular opinion, no 4 colored decks for me. Looks like a unicorn vomited all over the cards. Too distracting.

4 color is awesome once you get used to it for multi-tabling online.... However, I also don't care much for it live. Looks hokey.

Offered in classic Red/Blue colors

I'm so over Red/Blue as a combo if I can get another color combination I usually get that. Or, I'll get 2 sets, separate red & blue, & pair 'em with another color.

My pet peeve is 4-pip cards. Just the top left/bottom right for me

X 100. What a flop! I got 6 nines

I concur.

Also not a fan of the "peek" decks with the extra microscopic corner indexes.

In my mind, smooth finish has always meant slippery, and textured have always meant not slippery. Is that always the case in your experience?

Not necessarily. "Glossy", yes, usually always real slick. And also, tend to get sticky shortly thereafter.

Also "textured", if over-done (Faded Spade) can make dealing a chore.

While Cartamundi's Belgium-made "Casino" line has a "matte" finish that most would probably call "smooth" yet they deal out like a dream.

 

[Poker Zombie]

Reviving old thread...

I don't think I've even see cards with an open 4 like that. Have you?

Faded Spades. Not as wide open, but open enough for me to put in an order this morning.

 

[Dix]

Reviving old thread...

I had some time to kill this morning while sucking down the coffee.

 

[Jake14mw]

#1 - DEAL-ABILITY - In other words, how much attention do I have to pay to dealing? Can I pitch these things one at a time without even thinking about it? Or are they more like the worst offenders on the planet in that regard... Faded Spade. The finish coating on FS decks seems to make them want to hang together like they have their own gravity fields. Coming off the top of the deck 2 (& sometimes even 3) at a time with regularity. Separating the top card from it's neighbor is sometimes a more difficult process than taking my dog's favorite toy away. Which sucks, because I genuinely love the unique design & the index font.

On that note, many of my favorite decks in this department also suffer from the biggest pet-peeve of many.... "top card float". As a dealer, I LOVE decks where the top card just floats off the top. Those are the decks where pitching 2 cards at a time accidentally is pretty much a non-existent event.

#2 - POKER SIZE JUMBO INDEX - Jumbo index because I'm on the north side of 50 & still like to be able to read the upcards of the guy in seat #2 when I'm in seat #7 or #8 while playing Stud. Poker size because I own a ShuffleTech & love it. Again, being on the north side of 50, I now no longer have to OD on Aspirin to keep my hands from cramping from a long night of shuffling.

#3 - FLEX - This has slipped to #3 on the list since I became a ShuffleTech owner. That said however, it seems that even the shuffler doesn't care much for stiff/heavy cards. Also a gripe with Faded Spade as they're amongst the stiffest cards on the planet as well. With Bullets being not too far off that particular crime.

Of course a more flexible card isn't going to have the "snap" many of the cork-sniffer lot tout as being a great quality. Snap shamp, what the h*ll is "snap" worth? Does the d*mn thing still return to flat after repeated hole card peeking? If the answer to that question is "yes", then who gives a flying you-know-what if it goes "snap"? I'm not paying a Cellulose Acetate price for a cheap, thick, heavy piece of PVC just because it goes "snap". An equally priced CA deck will last twice as long. And, is easier to shuffle & deal to boot. I've got 10 year-old Desjgn decks that are still playable today. Oh, but they don't go "snap"... what a shame.

#4 - GENERAL FEEL/FINISH - It's no big secret my favorite finish is what I call "linen". Mostly because linen finish decks tend to be the best at category #1 - Deal-ability (also usually the best/worst in "top card float"). Lesser finishes tend to be on the slickery side of things, then quickly progressing to getting sticky. (Ace, Cartamundi Classic, Ritz, Royal) While thicker/coarser finishes just feel weird & tend to lead to deal-ability issues.

#5 - DURABILITY - Simple.... how long is that deck going to last? On that note, cellulose acetate beats the snot out of PVC as a general rule. But then, CA does come at a price. It's simply a more expensive material than toilet plumbing. PVC is also a harder material than CA, which means it's also more brittle. Try to match the flex of a CA card with PVC (ala: Copag) & you need to make the base stock so thin this becomes an issue (which also explains the occasional paper-cut).




Covered a couple of them above, but also on the "Pet Peeve" list..... The Italian Fat Spade.

This seems to be something unique to the two Italian brands, but why on earth they're carbon-copies of each other in making a spade look like its in dire need of an intervention from Jenny Craig I have no idea.

Unlike some players at the WSOP, I've never mistaken a Modiano or Dal Negro spade for a club or vice-versa. However, that said I can see how it might happen (especially playing Stud) if using a standard index deck & you don't look carefully.

This is really a shame too. Because Modiano's "Texas Poker" line would be among my favorite decks if it weren't for that. (Which is the stock the old Desjgns were produced on).


4 color is awesome once you get used to it for multi-tabling online.... However, I also don't care much for it live. Looks hokey.


I'm so over Red/Blue as a combo if I can get another color combination I usually get that. Or, I'll get 2 sets, separate red & blue, & pair 'em with another color.



I concur.

Also not a fan of the "peek" decks with the extra microscopic corner indexes.


Not necessarily. "Glossy", yes, usually always real slick. And also, tend to get sticky shortly thereafter.

Also "textured", if over-done (Faded Spade) can make dealing a chore.

While Cartamundi's Belgium-made "Casino" line has a "matte" finish that most would probably call "smooth" yet they deal out like a dream.

Thank for the detailed reply. It's very interesting to me. For me, since I have never been a dealer, I have never noticed any dealability issues in decks other than whether or not they are slick. So, for me, I would swap your #1 dealability with your #4, feel and finish. As you state, top card float drives me crazy! Durability is #5 for me also because I host less than 10 times per year, and I have so many setups that I will never be able to test any deck's durability.

I love your fat spade pet peeve. I can't say I have ever noticed that, but my pet peeve of Jumbo index cards PIPS extending halfway down the card is something I'm sure most others don't notice either, so I get it!

 

[Jake14mw]

Reviving old thread...

Faded Spades. Not as wide open, but open enough for me to put in an order this morning.

I just received my first setup of Faded Spades not long ago and hadn't noticed that! Interesting, and seems to be a good idea. I am still formulating my opinion of the Faded Spade cards, there are many things about them I really like, and a couple that I dislike. A review will be coming at some point.

 

[Dix]

For me, since I have never been a dealer, I have never noticed any dealability issues in decks other than whether or not they are slick.

Depends a LOT on your touch & technique.

If you have a heavy thumb & a death grip on the stub you likely don't have a problem with even the Faded Spade end of that spectrum.

Ditto on FS's index font... I love it.... just hate pretty much everything else about 'em.

 

[DZPoker]

The biggest thing that I hate in a deck of cards is when you place them down on the table and they start to slide on each other.

This!!

 

[surfik]

You may take one more thing into account. Cards you buy have some characteristics so you know what to expect, right? Wrong.
CONSISTENCY OF PRODUCT (what to expect buying certain brand of cards)

KEM, Fournier, Copag... Despite some flaws you always know what you buying

Modiano (apart from Platinium Line), Cartamundi... Product may vary from your previous experiences

GEMACO, Faded Spade ... Not really sure, I have very little experience with this brands


PS. I was recently told that Copag finally improved quality of ink, anyone can verify this news?

 

[The_dude]

#1 - DEAL-ABILITY - In other words, how much attention do I have to pay to dealing? Can I pitch these things one at a time without even thinking about it? Or are they more like the worst offenders on the planet in that regard... Faded Spade. The finish coating on FS decks seems to make them want to hang together like they have their own gravity fields. Coming off the top of the deck 2 (& sometimes even 3) at a time with regularity. Separating the top card from it's neighbor is sometimes a more difficult process than taking my dog's favorite toy away. Which sucks, because I genuinely love the unique design & the index font.

On that note, many of my favorite decks in this department also suffer from the biggest pet-peeve of many.... "top card float". As a dealer, I LOVE decks where the top card just floats off the top. Those are the decks where pitching 2 cards at a time accidentally is pretty much a non-existent event.

#2 - POKER SIZE JUMBO INDEX - Jumbo index because I'm on the north side of 50 & still like to be able to read the upcards of the guy in seat #2 when I'm in seat #7 or #8 while playing Stud. Poker size because I own a ShuffleTech & love it. Again, being on the north side of 50, I now no longer have to OD on Aspirin to keep my hands from cramping from a long night of shuffling.

#3 - FLEX - This has slipped to #3 on the list since I became a ShuffleTech owner. That said however, it seems that even the shuffler doesn't care much for stiff/heavy cards. Also a gripe with Faded Spade as they're amongst the stiffest cards on the planet as well. With Bullets being not too far off that particular crime.

Of course a more flexible card isn't going to have the "snap" many of the cork-sniffer lot tout as being a great quality. Snap shamp, what the h*ll is "snap" worth? Does the d*mn thing still return to flat after repeated hole card peeking? If the answer to that question is "yes", then who gives a flying you-know-what if it goes "snap"? I'm not paying a Cellulose Acetate price for a cheap, thick, heavy piece of PVC just because it goes "snap". An equally priced CA deck will last twice as long. And, is easier to shuffle & deal to boot. I've got 10 year-old Desjgn decks that are still playable today. Oh, but they don't go "snap"... what a shame.

#4 - GENERAL FEEL/FINISH - It's no big secret my favorite finish is what I call "linen". Mostly because linen finish decks tend to be the best at category #1 - Deal-ability (also usually the best/worst in "top card float"). Lesser finishes tend to be on the slickery side of things, then quickly progressing to getting sticky. (Ace, Cartamundi Classic, Ritz, Royal) While thicker/coarser finishes just feel weird & tend to lead to deal-ability issues.

#5 - DURABILITY - Simple.... how long is that deck going to last? On that note, cellulose acetate beats the snot out of PVC as a general rule. But then, CA does come at a price. It's simply a more expensive material than toilet plumbing. PVC is also a harder material than CA, which means it's also more brittle. Try to match the flex of a CA card with PVC (ala: Copag) & you need to make the base stock so thin this becomes an issue (which also explains the occasional paper-cut).




Covered a couple of them above, but also on the "Pet Peeve" list..... The Italian Fat Spade.

This seems to be something unique to the two Italian brands, but why on earth they're carbon-copies of each other in making a spade look like its in dire need of an intervention from Jenny Craig I have no idea.

Unlike some players at the WSOP, I've never mistaken a Modiano or Dal Negro spade for a club or vice-versa. However, that said I can see how it might happen (especially playing Stud) if using a standard index deck & you don't look carefully.

This is really a shame too. Because Modiano's "Texas Poker" line would be among my favorite decks if it weren't for that. (Which is the stock the old Desjgns were produced on).


4 color is awesome once you get used to it for multi-tabling online.... However, I also don't care much for it live. Looks hokey.


I'm so over Red/Blue as a combo if I can get another color combination I usually get that. Or, I'll get 2 sets, separate red & blue, & pair 'em with another color.



I concur.

Also not a fan of the "peek" decks with the extra microscopic corner indexes.


Not necessarily. "Glossy", yes, usually always real slick. And also, tend to get sticky shortly thereafter.

Also "textured", if over-done (Faded Spade) can make dealing a chore.

While Cartamundi's Belgium-made "Casino" line has a "matte" finish that most would probably call "smooth" yet they deal out like a dream.

Great info... so what are your favorites?

 

[Dix]

You may take one more thing into account. Cards you buy have some characteristics so you know what to expect, right? Wrong.
CONSISTENCY OF PRODUCT (what to expect buying certain brand of cards)

On this note.... If product quality means anything I'd rank Trefl at the top of the heap if they're as consistent as the sample decks that @surfik sent me.

They are literally the only deck where I didn't bother to measure the thickness of 4 different cards because the measurement of the 1st 3 was so consistent the 4th wouldn't have mattered to the average.

Great info... so what are your favorites?

Personal Favorites: Old Desjgn (Modiano Stock) / Kem / Gemaco Monarch / Cartamundi Casino - Belgium

And the bad news is..... only Kem & the Belgium-made Cartamundi Casino are still available as we speak. And, if you're on this side of the Atlantic, getting the European Casinos is going to be expensive.

I don't have the warping issues with Kem that many complain about. Then again, my storage is with a heavy cut card on top of each deck, in their cases, on an open shelf of a climate-controlled office. While that's routine for me, its not something everyone can do easily.

That said, & cost of getting 'em here aside, the Euro Casinos are becoming my #1 go-to since my old-stock Desjgn inventory is dwindling.

 

[Dix]

As you state, top card float drives me crazy!

This!!

Here's a tip in that department.....

Get in the habit of picking up a deck between your thumb & middle (or thumb & middle + ring) finger(s) mostly with your index finger resting on top of the deck.

When you place a deck on the table make that index finger the last one to be in contact with the deck.

Presto! No top card float, & once this becomes habitual you won't even need to think about it anymore.

What happens when you place the deck on the table is the bulk of the deck "falls away" from the top card/cards (they have less weight pushing them down) & lets them "float" on the air now trapped between them.

Keeping your finger on top of the deck prevents it.