2024 UPDATED: Paulson Colors converted to CMYK/RGB/PANTONE (1 Viewer)

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matthewb

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Hello everyone!

I love to design chips in my free time, and if you do to, you can understand the importance of consistency between your colors. Having a good color palette solves that problem. @QuailValley 's goal was to create custom card molds that closely match the colors of famous Paulson poker chip sets. They achieved this by compiling HEX codes from @Tommy 's Paulson Chip Design Tool, converting them to RGB and CMYK formats, and matching these to Pantone colors to ensure accuracy despite the inherent challenges in color reproduction across different mediums.

And this is where I'm stepping in. The original spreadsheet was never finished, for what I would assume to be very understandable reasons. Lately I've been making lots of spreadsheets and designing a new set. I said, "What the hell, why not", went ahead and applied several filters to the list using AI, and transferred the results. While I made minor enhancements, the core integrity of the project remains intact. Although you might still find small errors, just be sure to let me know to get it cleaned up.

Here is the NEW Spreadsheet: https://1drv.ms/x/c/fca00913bac8bfdf/EaU4IWtjGHFHkeLKHcpVbPMBUoN72v_zFlwlzV_QAv8lvw

2024 Updated Paulson Colors & Pantone List.png



Sources:
@QuailValley 's original spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JeRS1goTKyxHee6cYQ8o8I3KKNEnO4TiMPgwViLokYU/edit#gid=0
@Tommy 's PCF Paulson Chip Design Tool: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/pcf/pokerchiptool/
@Kid_Eastwood 's Pantone screenshots: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HbzLVH5aznUFJUihsR3wsCwZtMlxZ7k-/view

File -> Save As -> Download a Copy
 
Thanks for compiling this.
Getting colors across different formats can be tricky considering certain colors just aren’t attainable with different color systems.
I’ve found that to be quite evident with colors on Tina chips. While she originally suggested we design using Pantone colors, she doesn’t print using Pantone inks. Heck, we all set up in CMYK, and I don’t think her printers even use that system either…she may be doing chips in 6-color.
Unfortunately, I’ve found with some of her chip colors that the system of trial-and-error is sometimes necessary.
 
Colquhoun said:
Thanks for compiling this.
Getting colors across different formats can be tricky considering certain colors just aren’t attainable with different color systems.
I’ve found that to be quite evident with colors on Tina chips. While she originally suggested we design using Pantone colors, she doesn’t print using Pantone inks. Heck, we all set up in CMYK, and I don’t think her printers even use that system either…she may be doing chips in 6-color.
Unfortunately, I’ve found with some of her chip colors that the system of trial-and-error is sometimes necessary.
Click to expand...
Great information right here! It could be worth putting together a CMYK set of sample chips, similar to the old school pizza palette chips I saw way back in the day for people to use.

I don't currently own Illustrator, although I use Inkscape. Would need someone to do the CMYK conversion. (Can't remember if that is easy or not, it's been a minute.)
 
Same problem with MSK. You give them a Pantone code, they find some variant of the base color and use the CMYK there. You give them a CMYK value, it won't match anything you might be trying to match it against. Hopeless.

Only one I know this to be doing well and professionally is @Gear.
 
1) Thank you for your work!

2) @Colquhoun ’s point about print and production methods is important.

Recently I was working on short-run inlay designs, using a better than average but not high-end inkjet printer, glossy waterproof vinyl, and self-sealing laminate.

Meanwhile, I havent recalibrated my monitor in some time.

In order to select shades matching base or spot colors on various chips, I printed out a HEX color chart on the vinyl, and laminated it.

I then could hold actual chips up against the actual finished color output, to know exactly what I could expect from my equipment. I’d find a color match on the sheet and input that HEX value into my design program.

Then I didn’t have to worry about monitor variations.

This I found was the only reliable way to get accurate results, and saved a lot of trial-and-error mistakes.

With a third party vendor, I think the equivalent would be to send them chip samples for color matching (assuming they are willing to adjust your submissions). Vendors like @Gear have lots of samples in house. Not sure to what extent Tina et al. are willing to tweak artwork or if they just run with what you submit; I’ve not ordered from “her.”
 
Taghkanic said:
1) Thank you for your work!

2) @Colquhoun ’s point about print and production methods is important.

Recently I was working on short-run inlay designs, using a better than average but not high-end inkjet printer, glossy waterproof vinyl, and self-sealing laminate.

Meanwhile, I havent recalibrated my monitor in some time.

In order to select shades matching base or spot colors on various chips, I printed out a HEX color chart on the vinyl, and laminated it.

I then could hold actual chips up against the actual finished color output, to know exactly what I could expect from my equipment. I’d find a color match on the sheet and input that HEX value into my design program.

Then I didn’t have to worry about monitor variations.

This I found was the only reliable way to get accurate results, and saved a lot of trial-and-error mistakes.

With a third party vendor, I think the equivalent would be to send them chip samples for color matching (assuming they are willing to adjust your submissions). Vendors like @Gear have lots of samples in house. Not sure to what extent Tina et al. are willing to tweak artwork or if they just run with what you submit; I’ve not ordered from “her.”
Click to expand...
I can’t trust colors on screen, or even a Pantone book. I have a couple racks of various Tina chipset samples with known CMYK values. That’s all I’ve been using lately for color, and as you point out, the only way to be sure what to expect.
 
This is wonderful for the converting the Paulson Color names to the RGB and CMYK colors.

I am trying to put this together so when someone builds a Paulson chip in the Paulson Utility, it can converted to a Vector .AI size that someone can use to build the chip.

Is there a conversion table that coverts the name of the Paulson Edge spots to the physical size, shape and location of the Edge spot on the chip? example, like Edge Spot Style 5 (312), you can perform a table lookup that indicates the physical size, shape and location of the Edge spot on the chip?

Does something like that Exists?
 
Thank you @matthewb for the spreadsheet, it is really useful :tup:

I have noticed some HEX value differences between the Paulson Chip Tool and the spreadsheet. Some colors are relatively close, some are way off. For instance "Hot Pink" in the tool (when I color pick the hex value from the tool's color picker, see screenshot below) is #ff66b6 compared to #FF98D7.

Does someone have ideas why? Maybe the colors have changed in the Paulson Chip Tool since this spreadsheet ?

1731584457464.png
 
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I noticed that myself - Since I did not have sample color Paulson chips to compare to the spreadsheet value and the builder utility - I was not able to determine which one was correct, or more accurate. I've been debating if I should try to purchase or acquire a full color sample of paulson chips.

Maybe one of the Expert Designers can add to the thread...
 
Colquhoun said:
Primary or secondary?

Edit: I found the list in this post:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/save-your-money.60464/page-24#post-1190815
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks! I always thought they only had primaries for that one lol. That's interesting that that one is cherry and the other one is regular red. I wonder what royal red is then.

But that really was a perfect charge because that gave me the edge spot colors for the primary 100 I've been looking for. Now I just need to find real world examples for their dark green and munzell green.
 
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gou1 said:
I have noticed some HEX value differences between the Paulson Chip Tool and the spreadsheet. Some colors are relatively close, some are way off. For instance "Hot Pink" in the tool (when I color pick the hex value from the tool's color picker, see screenshot below) is #ff66b6 compared to #FF98D7.
Click to expand...
I color-pick checked all the colors and the only other one that was different (besides Hot Pink) was Bronze. I got hex code 875941, not 845941. That one just could've been a typo. though.

1736643591925.png
 
Rush4Rod said:
I color-pick checked all the colors and the only other one that was different (besides Hot Pink) was Bronze. I got hex code 875941, not 845941. That one just could've been a typo. though.

View attachment 1445493
Click to expand...
I've noticed with some that on the spreadsheet the hex code, RGB, and cmyk numbers don't always produce the same color.

the hex code on the Cherry in particular seems to be much paler than it should be.
 
Hunter_Makoy said:
I've noticed with some that on the spreadsheet the hex code, RGB, and cmyk numbers don't always produce the same color.

the hex code on the Cherry in particular seems to be much paler than it should be.
Click to expand...
Hex is only for RGB, as in computer monitors.
These chips are printed CMYK or 6-color. Viewing a CMYK color on a RGB screen, or expecting a RGB color to print correctly with CMYK inks is a recipe for a mismatch.

So far, trial and error has been the best way to get expected colors, but is sadly inefficient.
 
Colquhoun said:
Hex is only for RGB, as in computer monitors.
These chips are printed CMYK or 6-color. Viewing a CMYK color on a RGB screen, or expecting a RGB color to print correctly with CMYK inks is a recipe for a mismatch.

So far, trial and error has been the best way to get expected colors, but is sadly inefficient.
Click to expand...
So should I try putting in the rgb color and see if I like it and if I do switch it for the CMYK?
 
Hunter_Makoy said:
So should I try putting in the rgb color and see if I like it and if I do switch it for the CMYK?
Click to expand...
Anything you view on a computer screen is RGB (hex). Even software like Illustrator that has a CMYK colorspace is only emulating it onscreen. The only true way to see CMYK is to use a CMYK color chart that has been printed in those colors...which is not practical for most.
So the only way is to try to keep your CMYK values strong, vibrant and saturated...and keep your fingers crossed.
 
Ok my thought was that maybe the CMYK values in this chart were equal to the real world equivalent of the rbg values. So now the question becomes a little trickier. I use Cherry as an example because I have owned Paulson cherry colored chips and know how they look in real life. When I put in the RGB values on for a mock up for Tina the color doesn't match and I don't like it. Since I have to kind of guess anyway, if I were to use this color chart and take that value for Cherry (whether hex, rgb, cmyk, pantone, whatever) and use that for the base, would I assume that the color printed would be closer to the color I actually see on screen or to the real life representation?

This is using Gimp, so take from that what you will, but this is the picture of the cherry reference color from this site compared to the Hex code for cherry from the chart, which gives different cmyk and rbg values than the chart. The CMYK and rgb values from the chart are even more bizarre and faded. Now of course this may be some issue with gimp, I'm certainly not an expert on these, but do you see where I'm confused about which way I should expect this to go? If I wanted it to represent the chip (and that picture is a good representation of the real life color) would I go with the value on the chart or try to match the color of the actual chip?
cherry.png
 
Colquhoun said:
Hex is only for RGB, as in computer monitors.
These chips are printed CMYK or 6-color. Viewing a CMYK color on a RGB screen, or expecting a RGB color to print correctly with CMYK inks is a recipe for a mismatch.

So far, trial and error has been the best way to get expected colors, but is sadly inefficient.
Click to expand...
So one of my clients (photographer) has a pantone device that scans real world objects and gives the pantone / rgb / cmyk color.

Would that be helpful? I'm happy to scan whatever (and have a mostly complete color sample set).
 
Hunter_Makoy said:
Ok my thought was that maybe the CMYK values in this chart were equal to the real world equivalent of the rbg values. So now the question becomes a little trickier. I use Cherry as an example because I have owned Paulson cherry colored chips and know how they look in real life. When I put in the RGB values on for a mock up for Tina the color doesn't match and I don't like it. Since I have to kind of guess anyway, if I were to use this color chart and take that value for Cherry (whether hex, rgb, cmyk, pantone, whatever) and use that for the base, would I assume that the color printed would be closer to the color I actually see on screen or to the real life representation?

This is using Gimp, so take from that what you will, but this is the picture of the cherry reference color from this site compared to the Hex code for cherry from the chart, which gives different cmyk and rbg values than the chart. The CMYK and rgb values from the chart are even more bizarre and faded. Now of course this may be some issue with gimp, I'm certainly not an expert on these, but do you see where I'm confused about which way I should expect this to go? If I wanted it to represent the chip (and that picture is a good representation of the real life color) would I go with the value on the chart or try to match the color of the actual chip?
View attachment 1449012
Click to expand...
Different software is going to give different conversion values, because it really is just an approximation. Even CMYK offset printers (which print magazines, flyers, business cards etc.) may print the same file slightly differently because it's up to the person running the press how much of each color is laid down in the process. A good pressman is essential! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
With that in mind, colors on-screen are, at best, an estimation of the final color. Add the fact that I'm not sure exactly what printers (or colors) are being used in China to make these chips...they specify that we provide CMYK art, but I have provided known CMYK value that have printed differently on a chip than those same color values used on paper.
What I have been doing is using samples of chips that she has made of my own designs, so I know exactly what to expect. This has been the most helpful because those colors have been fairly consistent from batch to batch. I know that doesnt help you, and I totally understand the frustration. And in other news, it appears Tina has a new printer that she has started running the chips on, and it is apparently capable of better colors....which is great, but now my sample colors are all up in the air again. Apparently, I need to adjust my expectations again.
My best advice is to be flexible. Choose a color that looks good on screen, but recognise that there will be some variation in the final print. Some colors tend to stray more than others, but I wouldn't expect any exact matches.
That is one of the trade-offs with Tina chips. The positives are that they're inexpensive, colorful, and she will print any art you provide. The negatives are the wait and the uncertainty of the final result. I highly recommend checking out BRPro poker as an alternative. They will work with you to get exactly the colors you like and their ceramic chips are the best I've found. Sure, they're more expensive, but it all depends on your priorities.
 
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cpiaaq said:
So one of my clients (photographer) has a pantone device that scans real world objects and gives the pantone / rgb / cmyk color.

Would that be helpful? I'm happy to scan whatever (and have a mostly complete color sample set).
Click to expand...
That sounds like a very cool device, and thanks for the offer. I used to have the Pantone book that showed all their colors with their own estimation of what the matching CMYK values would be. Unfortunately, Tina's printer is inconsistent in printing even known values. I honestly don't know their process, and even when she prints a color that I know how it prints using traditional CMYK on paper, it looks different.
It's a very inexact experience for sure.
 
Didn’t @Cratty just have sample sets printed to try and fix the matching inlays.Maybe he has some more insight or more importantly new samples that can be referenced against Paulson color chart with known values. Throw a Pantone device in the mix and that may speed up the process.
 
You just can't use the screen to get to the desired results. Don't even try, not even a calibrated screen (which I feel you don't have). No approximations will get you there or maybe even close.

Going via Pantone is one possibility in the right direction, but still depends on Tina's printers and ability to match and be consistent.

Even there, there is no exact conversion from Pantone to CMYK as it depends on the particular printer as well (and Tina has 2 different ones producing different results).

Anyway, here's what my particular Cherry chip matches best (the difference on the photos is bigger than in reality), with 4059C being a closer match:
20250119_082347.jpg
 
Hi Friends, have some color questions. Is Lilac a purple or a blue? Is Orchid a purple or a blue?
 

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