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39mm spot vector graphics (useful for Tina/Anita cards mold?) (2 Viewers)

eightyWon

eightyWon

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I recently became interested in making a China cards mold set and decided to create a vector template for some of the common edge spot patterns. I'm sharing it with the community in case anyone else finds it useful.

It was created in Inkscape and converted to use the CYMK color space using Scribus and this method and is an svg file. Here's an export of what's inside:

jDlL35A.png


The center area is 25mm in diameter including a .5mm white border.

So, in honor of my 148th post, the file:

011722
011622
1103
1101
1031
1030
1028

Feedback very welcome, good, bad, or otherwise.

Obviously, if you have any questions/doubts about using/editing this file and producing print-ready output, working with an actual experienced graphic designer (which I'm not) is best

todo:
-add more edge spot patterns
-add an alternate set with roughened edge spots (to mimic clay imperfections)
-add inlay options (oversized, shaped, etc.)

edits:
-now includes all Alibaba vendor China clay Pantone colors (011722)
-converted to an AI-based file, all CPC spot patterns and rolling edges now included, China clay Pantone color swatch started (011622)
-updated to fix rolling edges based on feedback (1103)
-updated to add some initial rolling edges (1101)
-updated to fix some mixed up spot colors and an initial attempt at a few rolling edges (1031)
-updated file to fix some imperfections in various chip templates (1030)
-updated based on the great feedback from timinater.
 
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timinater said:
Good work!

I'd change the colour space of this document to CMYK. It's an easy thing to miss, and any manufacturer will need files in that format rather than RGB.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this. Now that I'm down the color space rabbit hole I can see one of the reasons Illustrator is a better choice for print.

I'm going to update the OP, changing the link to a color-space-corrected PDF, adding info on how to convert an Inkscape svg to the CMYK color space, and a disclaimer that, if in doubt, get an actual graphic artist's help.

Now to figure out a way to justify the Illustrator monthly sub :)

Thanks again!!
 
Awesome job! Would it be possible to add the cards mold to the template like in the example below, just to help visualize what the final product will look like? What about the accompanying templates for the edge strips?

ar2_cash_set2b-jpg.759251
 
TheOffalo said:
Awesome job! Would it be possible to add the cards mold to the template like in the example below, just to help visualize what the final product will look like? What about the accompanying templates for the edge strips?

ar2_cash_set2b-jpg.759251
Click to expand...

I'll certainly kick around ways to allow creation of a more finalized render/representation of the chosen spot patterns.

Edgespot strips is 100% something I'm planning to do. I'll have to figure it out for my own designs anyway.
 
Looks beautiful playa!

Are the EDGE SPOTS available?

Big thing stopping many from pulling the trigger on a custom ceramic design is their preciseness of the edge spot alignment. Ya know what I’m sayin’?

I can hop on the computer real quick and make an example if needed!
 
MatthewTreeTree said:
Looks beautiful playa!

Are the EDGE SPOTS available?

Big thing stopping many from pulling the trigger on a custom ceramic design is their preciseness of the edge spot alignment. Ya know what I’m sayin’?

I can hop on the computer real quick and make an example if needed!
Click to expand...
I’ve had the theory of sizing the circle/chip face to match the exact length of the “wrap?”, for the edge spots and then the size is right there... -making the chip face 1:1 with the edge spots-

That sounds confusing even for me to read it but I don’t know how else to explain it!

If you understand, is that how it works?? I’m not sure if when it wraps around the edge, if the edge spot has to actually be slightly larger than what’s showing on the face...
 
I was originally thinking of trying to get the diameter of a 39mm circle and basing the edge stripe on that, but since it's vector it should all be relative. Maybe have the edge spots be 360 units, representing 360 degrees, and finding the relative width of each edge spot and apply it to the strip and then you can size it up or down as needed? I have no idea how it works either! :wtf:
 
TheOffalo said:
I was originally thinking of trying to get the diameter of a 39mm circle and basing the edge stripe on that, but since it's vector it should all be relative. Maybe have the edge spots be 360 units, representing 360 degrees, and finding the relative width of each edge spot and apply it to the strip and then you can size it up or down as needed? I have no idea how it works either! :wtf:
Click to expand...
That’s high tec yo — now that you say it, could probably just take a chip that you like in real life and roll it around on a piece of paper and mark it up with a pencil hahahah

Wouldn’t be hard at all to replicate in Inkscape — :unsure:

Edit: Or even use clear double sided tape to get it exact...
 
I'm sure the length of the rolling edge is the circumference of the chip (2*pi*r), then it's possible the vendor specifies a little overlap.

In terms of aligning the edge spots, the math shouldn't be too complicated and would be based on spot width and spacing being divided into the rolling edge length and placed evenly.
 
Oops I meant circumference when I said diameter.

People who’ve placed cards mold chip orders must have already figured out the edge stripes, since so many of the mock-ups includes the stripes. Maybe one of them will chime in.

Or maybe Tina/Anita tweak them to fit during prep.
 
That looks great. I've been creating my own template and did something similar. Whatever just gives an idea of what the cards mold would look like on the chip! :)

cardsmolddeboss.png


I'm also working on the shaped inlays. Took the ones from the Aces AI file and then created some of the other ones, like the hex and star and cam and the various apple/moon ones. (Did a deeper and a shallower version of the tri-moon, that's why there's two.)

shapedinlaysmock.png


I'm probably reinventing the wheel--some of the designers must have all of them done already--but it's kind of fun! Will post to this thread when done...
 
Version 1 in SVG (Google Drive takes a moment to render the preview but you can download without waiting.)

Took the 9 inlay shapes from the Aces files, and I created/added in no particular order: hex, clover, star, cog/gear (12 teeth), wheel, 4 point, 4 notch, clover, cam, 2-4 moons. Feel free to suggest other ones I can try to create.

Note that I made the stylistic choice to maximize the visible area on the inlays, so some of the shapes don't go as deep into the center as the real inlays they're based on.

Max dimension of each inlay shape is 22.225mm, so that it can sit in the 24mm center and show some "background" between the debossed circle at 25mm and the shapes.

shaped_inlays_cardsmoldv1.png
 
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Having templates of edge artwork would be a game changer!

Somewhere deep in the archives there is a post about how to calculate the math to get perfectly aligned edgespots. I did it once for a custom ceramic set, but it was a pain, and I certainly did not commit it to memory.
 
Pinesol13 said:
Having templates of edge artwork would be a game changer!

Somewhere deep in the archives there is a post about how to calculate the math to get perfectly aligned edgespots. I did it once for a custom ceramic set, but it was a pain, and I certainly did not commit it to memory.
Click to expand...

these are the threads I used to glean knowledge from:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/calculating-edgespot-alignment-on-ceramic-chips.35886/

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/custom-poker-chip-info.53447/page-2

I basically used the technique in the first link with a little trial and error and brute force, but I feel like I have perfectly aligned and sized spots.

I'd love feedback though, if anyone wants to review and check the math.
 
I should have added just for the discussion, one thing I've not been clear on is where to start the rolling edge spots. I went with what seemed logical to me, starting the rolling edge art at the bottom of the chip, but seeing some other design files, that doesn't seem consistent with where others are starting.

Really curious to hear the answer if there is a right way to do that if anyone has one.
 
Looks like a lot of the stripes are starting at the top of the chip (12 o'clock) but I definitely see examples where it seems to start elsewhere on the chip.

1635889021823.png

Below is what I did to build my edge stripes in Inkscape, for the 4-moon chip above. I could have probably just used simple math to calculate the edge length of one moon, multiple by 4, subtract from 122.522mm (circumference for 39mm chip), then take the remaining amount and divide that by 4, and then space them out evenly. But I've applied a "Roughen" path effect to some of the shapes, so the elements may vary (probably by less than 1mm), so this is (I think) a more precise but more time consuming method...

Use the Measure tool in Inkscape to find the chord length between two points:

1635889175859.png


Plug the chord length (18.86mm) into this calculator to get the length of the arc (19.6853mm)

1635889285591.png


Since I'm starting at the top of the chip, I divide the arc length by 2 and get 9.842mm. So I create a 9.842mm x 3.5mm rectangle in the brown.

Then I use the Measure tool again to measure the chord length first green moon, which is 10.75mm:

1635889571902.png


I use the above calculator to figure out the arc length, which is 10.891mm. I create a green rectangle with that width and a height of 3.5mm and grouped it with the brown rectangle. I repeat the process for each segment and added the final half brown stripe at the end.

When I added it all together it was ~122.2mm, which is a little shorter than the 122.522mm circumference for a 39mm circle, so I increased the width of the stripe to match. I added some effects to the edge stripe to make it seem more authentic, like I've seen others do:

1635889968321.png


Edit: Just read more about split spots and since the tri-moons are green, then that's the color that'd get squeezed:

1635892647543.png


Maybe for the quarter pies I'll cheat and just take 122.522 and divide by 4 and make the stripe that way. When we're talking tenths of millimeters I'm not sure if my above method is worth the time. Imaging doing this for bear claws...
 
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The reason I decided to actually calculate the arc length is because I saw examples like what's in the second link you posted above:

1635890451629.png


Where it looks to me like the width of each section of the edge stripe corresponds with the horizontal width of the edge spots on the face, but since the chip is curved, the sections of the edge stripes should be slightly longer. Which was what led me to reading up about secant lines and chords and then fortunately finding the calculator so I didn't have to do math. ;-)
 
TheOffalo said:
Looks like a lot of the stripes are starting at the top of the chip (12 o'clock) but I definitely see examples where it seems to start elsewhere on the chip.

View attachment 804663
Below is what I did to build my edge stripes in Inkscape, for the 4-moon chip above. I could have probably just used simple math to calculate the edge length of one moon, multiple by 4, subtract from 122.522mm (circumference for 39mm chip), then take the remaining amount and divide that by 4, and then space them out evenly. But I've applied a "Roughen" path effect to some of the shapes, so the elements may vary (probably by less than 1mm), so this is (I think) a more precise but more time consuming method...

Use the Measure tool in Inkscape to find the chord length between two points:

View attachment 804665

Plug the chord length (18.86mm) into this calculator to get the length of the arc (19.6853mm)

View attachment 804666

Since I'm starting at the top of the chip, I divide the arc length by 2 and get 9.842mm. So I create a 9.842mm x 3.5mm rectangle in the brown.

Then I use the Measure tool again to measure the chord length first green moon, which is 10.75mm:

View attachment 804667

I use the above calculator to figure out the arc length, which is 10.891mm. I create a green rectangle with that width and a height of 3.5mm and grouped it with the brown rectangle. I repeat the process for each segment and added the final half brown stripe at the end.

When I added it all together it was ~122.2mm, which is a little shorter than the 122.522mm circumference for a 39mm circle, so I increased the width of the stripe to match. I added some effects to the edge stripe to make it seem more authentic, like I've seen others do:

View attachment 804670

Edit: Just read more about split spots and since the tri-moons are green, then that's the color that'd get squeezed:

View attachment 804683

Maybe for the quarter pies I'll cheat and just take 122.522 and divide by 4 and make the stripe that way. When we're talking tenths of millimeters I'm not sure if my above method is worth the time. Imaging doing this for bear claws...
Click to expand...

TheOffalo said:
The reason I decided to actually calculate the arc length is because I saw examples like what's in the second link you posted above:

View attachment 804673

Where it looks to me like the width of each section of the edge stripe corresponds with the horizontal width of the edge spots on the face, but since the chip is curved, the sections of the edge stripes should be slightly longer. Which was what led me to reading up about secant lines and chords and then fortunately finding the calculator so I didn't have to do math. ;-)
Click to expand...


My process was very similar and I decided to measure the arc length for the same reason.

I used the measure tool in inkscape to calculate the arc length in degrees:

1635894064152.png
1635894133346.png


...so in the example, taking the first angle (49*) and subtracting the second from it (10.99*) gets you there.

I knew the full length of my edge strip was 122.522mm so that divided by 360 gives you .340338mm per degree, and from there it's just multiplication for the spot width.

I'm pretty confident in the math/method, but hopefully if I'm making a wrong assumption or off somewhere it'll get spotted. The good news is, with this method, I've not yet been more than .001mm off when extrapolating the spots across the strip.
 
So I looked at all the various "stock" designs on the first page of https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ramics-master-consolidated-info-thread.65544/ and the Aces template definitely starts at the top of the chip, but then the others all seem to be random.

Many seem to start the stripe a little before the first edge spots, but some like @Kid_Eastwood's WSOP tribute sets seem to start at an edge spot. Maybe it doesn't matter where as long as it's consistent for a design/file, and the manufacturer will align the first chip and then use that setting for the rest in a set?
 
TheOffalo said:
Maybe it doesn't matter where as long as it's consistent for a design/file, and the manufacturer will align the first chip and then use that setting for the rest in a set?
Click to expand...

that's the assumption I went on after seeing similar. I'm glad it came up though, hopefully more experienced designers chime in with their expertise.
 
OP updated with latest file.

Biggest addition that folks might find useful is that I've begun creating a giant swatch of the Pantone colors the Alibaba cards mold sellers use based on the attachment from this post. I subscribed to Pantone Connect which allowed me to get the exact Pantone colors used in the swatches. This will allow folks without access to the exact Pantone colors to easily sample from the swatches in this file.

jt0Htab.png


I'm about halfway through all the colors in this latest version of my template file. I'm hoping to finish up the rest in the next week.

Hope someone finds this helpful... enjoy!
 
This is spectacularly awesome, I don't suppose I can push my luck and ask if there's any sort of guide on how to edit the template? I've got illustrator but I'm a complete noob with it.
 

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