39mm spot vector graphics (useful for Tina/Anita cards mold?) (13 Viewers)

Finding this thread, noticed my edge spots were progressively slightly off because edge images resized to have overlap by Tina by a small bit (few mm).

Not a big deal and very minimal, but this still the correct dimensioning/people using this vs just 2*pi*r?
Did you use my updated version?
 
When creating ceramic chips, I always use trigonometry to calculate the spots width, etc.
 
todo:
-add more edge spot patterns
-add an alternate set with roughened edge spots (to mimic clay imperfections)
After many years of inactivity, I'm getting back into going down this rabbit hole and @Colquhoun just turned me on to this thread and your file. Thanks you for all your hard work, work in-progress and saving me from having to reinvent the wheel. I made these but haven't gone through the learning curve of how to figure out the length of the edge spots on the rolling edge.

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Total length = 2 x pi x r -> pi x 39 (for 39mm chips)

For the second one it's easy. It's the total length / 3.

For the first one, it involves more trigonometry and depends on the width of the spot at 6 o'clock.
 
I am trying to put this together so when someone builds a Paulson chip in the Paulson Utility, it can converted to a Vector .AI size that someone can use to build the chip.

Is there a conversion table that coverts the name of the Paulson Edge spots to the physical size, shape and location of the Edge spot on the chip? example, like Edge Spot Style 5 (312), you can perform a table lookup that indicates the physical size, shape and location of the Edge spot on the chip?

Does something like that Exists? Does a template already exist for Adobe Illustrator for each chip? or an Inkspace template?
 
OP updated with latest file.

Biggest addition that folks might find useful is that I've begun creating a giant swatch of the Pantone colors the Alibaba cards mold sellers use based on the attachment from this post. I subscribed to Pantone Connect which allowed me to get the exact Pantone colors used in the swatches. This will allow folks without access to the exact Pantone colors to easily sample from the swatches in this file.

jt0Htab.png


I'm about halfway through all the colors in this latest version of my template file. I'm hoping to finish up the rest in the next week.

Hope someone finds this helpful... enjoy!
Hey @eightyWon this is godly work. Is it possible to upload a google drive link to the original at all? PCF seems to compress the images
 
How do we know what colours will print accurately
And if two similar colours are too close and get printed the same
Check out @Cratty s thread about Tangiers and the Quest for a Tina hybrid faux inlay Link to his tread

On the first page you'll see the color wheel samples he sent as input & on the second page the samples he received.
Red/Purple/Orange hues seem to be very close too one another even though the provided colors seemed different enough.
 
Also, save yourself the headache of color matching with Tina if you are doing hybrids. They will not be able to match your blank colors to your labels. You either have to settle for ‘not even close’ or print and apply your own labels (or hire someone stateside) if you want the labels to match your blanks.
 
I should note that these pantone colors were provided from Tina to a forum member a few years ago, represented as being the colors they support.

Since then, others have found that either wasn't necessarily accurate or that it's at least no longer accurate.

Anyway, ymmv with these colors and official Tina "support".

There's more info somewhere here on the forum about this, might search for it later when I'm not on mobile.

here's the comment in question re: the "official" pantone colors - https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...elt-cut-seat-playing-cards.98089/post-2075682

and the original post where the "official" pantone colors came from - https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...e-for-the-alibaba-seller-cards-mold-gb.61718/

Just wanted to bump these for more visibility, too, just for clarity on the colors from my template file. I'm not sure how much use they even are anymore since there doesn't really seem to in fact be officially supported colors.

Feedback welcome on if it's even worth keeping the swatch in the file, or if it just creates confusion.
 
Just wanted to bump these for more visibility, too, just for clarity on the colors from my template file. I'm not sure how much use they even are anymore since there doesn't really seem to in fact be officially supported colors.

Feedback welcome on if it's even worth keeping the swatch in the file, or if it just creates confusion.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but when I import it into illustrator (old version 4) I have trouble using the file because a lot (but not all) of the chips have a clipping path the size of the whole sheet in their group. When I try to select a single chip everything gets selected. I can't just grab a chip and copy it to another file.

It took me a few minutes just to delete all the colour swatches. Which should be a 2s job.

Maybe there are some key hold downs or something about isolation mode that I don't know about.

Any tips? Anyone.
 
Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but when I import it into illustrator (old version 4) I have trouble using the file because a lot (but not all) of the chips have a clipping path the size of the whole sheet in their group. When I try to select a single chip everything gets selected. I can't just grab a chip and copy it to another file.

It took me a few minutes just to delete all the colour swatches. Which should be a 2s job.

Maybe there are some key hold downs or something about isolation mode that I don't know about.

Any tips? Anyone.
As you mentioned, it’s likely an issue with the older version of Illustrator. I’m using the current version and the pdf opens fine and doesn’t group the chips.
If you want, I can save the chip section as an Illustrator 4 file, just send me a PM
 
Just a thought - I print a bunch of stuff for signs etc. etc. Printing in CMYK is a goofy miracle - 4 colors when mixed together in different ratios are able to produce millions of colors. Some colors are harder to reproduce than others. Reds are hard. Since printers , monitors and colors (pantones etc.) always look different from printer to printer, monitor to monitor etc., I take a Pantone CMYK file (available from Pantone) and print the whole thing out on the printer we use. Colors can vary from ink, and the substrates that they are printed on. When we have a customer that needs a specific Pantone color, I take my actual Pantone color chips and put that beside the print that comes out of my printer. Sometimes they match, most times they don't. We just choose the color from the printed sample that is closest to the Pantone color (factory chip) they need. It would be super helpful if we could talk Tina into printing pantone colors onto actual chips and then have those chips photographed next to a actual Pantone supplied reference (like the photo below) It will be kinda confusing as the Pantone numbers probably won't match the colors their printer can produce, but it would get us closer to actual colors produced. Obviously, there are too many colors possible for that to happen, but maybe for 20 - 50 colors wouldn't be so bad. I'd chip in some $ to help that happen.

pantone wheel.jpg
 
Just a thought - I print a bunch of stuff for signs etc. etc. Printing in CMYK is a goofy miracle - 4 colors when mixed together in different ratios are able to produce millions of colors. Some colors are harder to reproduce than others. Reds are hard. Since printers , monitors and colors (pantones etc.) always look different from printer to printer, monitor to monitor etc., I take a Pantone CMYK file (available from Pantone) and print the whole thing out on the printer we use. Colors can vary from ink, and the substrates that they are printed on. When we have a customer that needs a specific Pantone color, I take my actual Pantone color chips and put that beside the print that comes out of my printer. Sometimes they match, most times they don't. We just choose the color from the printed sample that is closest to the Pantone color (factory chip) they need. It would be super helpful if we could talk Tina into printing pantone colors onto actual chips and then have those chips photographed next to a actual Pantone supplied reference (like the photo below) It will be kinda confusing as the Pantone numbers probably won't match the colors their printer can produce, but it would get us closer to actual colors produced. Obviously, there are too many colors possible for that to happen, but maybe for 20 - 50 colors wouldn't be so bad. I'd chip in some $ to help that happen.

View attachment 1491153
First off, we don't know if she actually prints in CMYK, she just requires a CMYK file. She might print in CMYK, or maybe 6-color printing. She also just got a new printer, so all the previous samples we have may look different when printed today. And the cherry on top is the fact that she hands off the label printing to another company, and who knows what printing setup they're using.

Asking her to CMYK match 20-50 Pantone colors is a big ask, in my opinion. Hell, I can't even get her to stop reducing art on a damn label.
 
First off, we don't know if she actually prints in CMYK, she just requires a CMYK file. She might print in CMYK, or maybe 6-color printing. She also just got a new printer, so all the previous samples we have may look different when printed today. And the cherry on top is the fact that she hands off the label printing to another company, and who knows what printing setup they're using.

Asking her to CMYK match 20-50 Pantone colors is a big ask, in my opinion. Hell, I can't even get her to stop reducing art on a damn label.

Ah, I didn't even think of the new 6-color printers. Color matching is much more difficult than it was 20 years ago... go figure. This chip set I'm trying to make for myself really depends on the colors. Doesn't help that I am using a subtle southwestern color palette.
 
Just a thought - I print a bunch of stuff for signs etc. etc. Printing in CMYK is a goofy miracle - 4 colors when mixed together in different ratios are able to produce millions of colors. Some colors are harder to reproduce than others. Reds are hard. Since printers , monitors and colors (pantones etc.) always look different from printer to printer, monitor to monitor etc., I take a Pantone CMYK file (available from Pantone) and print the whole thing out on the printer we use. Colors can vary from ink, and the substrates that they are printed on. When we have a customer that needs a specific Pantone color, I take my actual Pantone color chips and put that beside the print that comes out of my printer. Sometimes they match, most times they don't. We just choose the color from the printed sample that is closest to the Pantone color (factory chip) they need. It would be super helpful if we could talk Tina into printing pantone colors onto actual chips and then have those chips photographed next to a actual Pantone supplied reference (like the photo below) It will be kinda confusing as the Pantone numbers probably won't match the colors their printer can produce, but it would get us closer to actual colors produced. Obviously, there are too many colors possible for that to happen, but maybe for 20 - 50 colors wouldn't be so bad. I'd chip in some $ to help that happen.

View attachment 1491153
Good luck. I tried last year and they will not. Someone else prints labels for them and they print the chip blanks. They also refused to buy the pantone reference package.
 
I too was just on the phone with someone the other week and we talked about the labels vs chips comparison. They don't print the labels in house. We asked if we could color match the labels to the chips "perfectly" and got a no. The same goes for the slight sizing differences. Tina will make a label sizing change without asking you which is somewhat concerning at times especially if you've made sure that the artwork should be the right size for the look you are going for.

Maybe giving some extra bleed would fix that issue/maybe it wouldn't.
 
Well... I guess since I love poker, I should accept that custom chips from China are a bit of a gamble. My first set turned out great, so I'm probably overthinking this a bit. I can accept the fact that the colors won't match 100% but that's partly why I designed the label to have a few gradients of colors and a small border of off-white - that way if the label doesn't match perfectly, it's not as noticeable. It's the colors on the actual chips that I'm more concerned about. Hopefully, if Tina's new printer is a 6-color CMYKOG printer, that should help with subtle colors and get me pretty close. But, if they are printing with CMYKOG and we're saving our Illustrator files in CMYK, who knows how their printer will handle those colors - maybe their artist converts the colors? Who knows. Gambling.

Could anybody ask Tina what kind of printer she uses now? Make/model. @justincarothers ?
I could do some homework and figure out better what to send her.
 
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I tried that. I also included a separate cropping layer and translated “trim line, cut here” into Mandarin, and that didn’t work either.
Maybe it translated to “Have a nice day.”
Yeah, we tried pushing the subject again on reduced trim zones.. knowing full well their capability/tolerance is better than what they adjust too.. and response was effectively "no, machine shakes".

Candidly, I think many overestimate how understanding print shop employees are of their own industry. Likely dealing with entry level employees that have the minimum knowledge to get something to work and don't deviate. Largely what I believe is the experience as we've worked with Tina.

Reminds me of a story my father told me about one of his experiences (family ad/marketing agency - sometime likely in the 90s). He had to work with a local newspaper to print an advertisement, and had sent in the files (perfectly sized, dpi, etc) and asked for an example print.. nothing new, they worked with a lot of papers. The example prints from this one paper would come back at a very clear quality loss. After trying to talk to the print department without making any progress my dad went down to the print department to talk to the employee responsible for the file processing. The employee was reducing the file size to a fraction of the provided file size/dimension, and then resizing it back up.... My dad argued until he was blue in the face with the employee that they needed to just print the file as-is without reducing the file and increasing back again, and how this just destroyed the print quality. The employee couldn't understand and just put up a wall and said effectively, "this is how it's always done, if you don't like it then don't advertise with our paper". My dad also found out the employee was fully delegated all processing responsibility and any higher-ups had even less of a clue.

As Justin can attest... I've argued through him to Tina until I've likewise been blue in the face on a dozen things.. have made ground on some items, others I've just given up and chalked it up to the price we pay for what we get.
 
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The same goes for the slight sizing differences. Tina will make a label sizing change without asking you which is somewhat concerning at times especially if you've made sure that the artwork should be the right size for the look you are going for.

Yeah, we tried pushing the subject again on reduced trim zones.. knowing full well their capability/tolerance is better than what they adjust too.. and response was effectively "no, machine shakes".
Curious… has anyone tried purposely submitting oversized label image files to help compensate for the expected “China-shrinkage” syndrome?
Kinda joking, kinda not.
 
I think the label issue is more luck of the draw. The ones I received recently were spot on perfect. I did have a cut line in the file. Who knows.
 
Curious… has anyone tried purposely submitting oversized label image files to help compensate for the expected “China-shrinkage” syndrome?
Kinda joking, kinda not.
They aren't reducing them a set amount. They're taking any submitted art and reducing it enough that it has a certain amount of space from the edge. However, even when i asked that some art should go toward the edge and they should follow the cut line I provided, they reduced it anyway.
They will leave a background alone, but anything percieved as art will be reduced within that region.
 
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