Barringtonc Poker Table Upgrade (1 Viewer)

xovsop

New Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2022
Messages
3
Reaction score
17
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Hello,

I decided to upgrade my Barrington 10 Player Poker Table due to the fact that the cupholders couldn't hold my Yeti tumbler. I didn't capture pictures at the start but started capturing midway and wanted to post my process in case others had the same idea or wanted to try their hand.

These two posts gave me the confidence to try this:

Started off with this Barrington Poker Table. Found one on OfferUp for $185:
Barrington Collection 10 Player Poker Table with Padded Rails and Cup Holders

orig.jpg


In this upgrade I repainted the rails, changed the cupholders, and changed the cloth. The full upgrade took about 4 days. The materials I used to do this are below (not referral links):

Tools for the job $231.99 + Tax
Painting $36.27 + Tax
Total: $268.26 + Tax

Prep Step #1

I do not have pictures of repainting the rails but that process was very interesting. I first attempted to disassemble the table by removing the stability wire, hinges, and each of the rails (by unscrewing them from the underside of the table) but quickly realized that even after removing the screws, the rails were held in place by the original cupholders that were superglued to the table.

I took a risk here and used vice grips to rip the cupholders off. When doing this I accidentally ripped the faux leather in two places on the rails (about a 4" inch rip) when I clamped them in the vice grip without realizing it. So if you follow this process be very careful when pulling the old cupholders out. This was the result:

IMG_3837.jpg


IMG_3838.jpg


Painting Step #1
After removing the original cupholders, I was able to fully remove the rails. I cleaned them using the Angelus Easy Cleaner and painted them with the black Angelus Acrylic Paint. I'm not a skilled painter and I did notice that the acrylic paint had trouble adhering to the foax leather finish. I probably should have used a leather prep deglazer here. However, the sponge brushes worked beautifully and I just continued to rub the paint in until it stuck. A hair dryer or heat gun would have probably worked well here also. I let that dry for an hour or so, came back, and did a second coat.

Painting Step #2
I let the paint dry overnight. It had a matte look so I applied one coat of Angelus Leather Paint Finisher to give it a nice gloss. After doing this, I moved the rails off to the side to dry.

Upgrade Step #1 - Preparing the new cloth
The first thing I did after painting was remove the original Barrington table cloth. I then took a pair of scissors and cut the Yuanhe Poker Table Speed Cloth along the halfway fold. I didn't worry about measuring anything at this point because each half of the speed cloth was long and wide enough to easily cover each of the table halves.

Upgrade Step #2 - Aligning the new cloth
Once I had the speed cloth cut in half, I aligned the suited pattern with the inside edge (the edge where the two halves of the table meet) of the table while giving 5-6 inches of slack to wrap underneath and staple later. I used the staple gun here to hold my alignment in place while I repeated this step for the other half of the table. Using four staples to do it this way allowed me to match the pattern up on both sides easier without going back and forth.

Upgrade Step #3 - Fully installing the new cloth
Once both halves of the new cloth were aligned, I used an clothing iron on low heat to remove creases in the cloth (from being folded in packaging). Once this was done, I lifted the cloth and sprayed some Gorilla Heavy Duty Spray Adhesive on the original Barrington underlying padding. I then slowly laid the cloth down pulling it tightly to minimize bubbles and wrinkles and used a dry rag to help press the cloth into the padding. Once this was done, I used the Arrow Staple Gun while pulling to staple it securely in place along the edges. Finally, after doing this, I used the hobby knife to cleanly cut the cloth to shape along the edge of the table.

Upgrade Step #4 - Reinstalling the rails.
After the new cloth was installed, I carefully installed the rails again. I used a drill put the original screws back in place (from the underside of the table) to help me properly align the rails (using the existing holes on the protruding screws on the top side of the table). This was the result:

IMG_3836.jpg

IMG_3835.jpg


Upgrade Step #5 - Prepping the rails for the new cupholders
The new cupholders were 3.5 inches in diameter. Once all the rails were re-installed, I took a pair of scissors and cut half inch slits in eight places around in the inside of the faux leather rings where the original cupholders were. This was done to widen the circle in an even manner and allow space for the hole saw to get through. I used a hobby knife to cut the the same amount of underlying foam out.

If you take this approach make sure you cut out the foam in advance and don't use the hole saw to do this like I did on one attempt. On one of the holes I did not do this and the hole saw ripped the foam and almost ruined the uniformity of the underlying area!

IMG_3839.jpg

IMG_3840.jpg


Upgrade Step #6 - Cutting holes for the new cupholders
The hole saw was pretty fun to use. I did this by myself and it was pretty difficult because I didn't have another person to apply leverage on the other side of the table! I ended up using my 1000 poker chip case to properly weigh down and counterbalance it haha.

If you take this approach, make sure to stop cutting once you get through the rail and remove the excess wood from the saw and then continue on. Because there are two layers of wood, the rail and the actual table, if you don't remove the cutout from the rail it will make it very difficult to continue and cut out the hole from the table!

Also, I wasn't really thinking all the way through and wish I did this outside! The saw dust made a huge mess and dusted up the couches and floor! This made for a big cleanup after.

IMG_3845.jpg


Upgrade Step #7 - Modifying the table legs for the new cupholders
Once I got going I quickly realized that on each edge of the table one of the original cupholder slots were blocked by the table leg assembly. I flipped the table over, and used a reciprocating saw to cut off about 1.5 inches of the table leg assembly edges from each side. This gave me enough space for the new cupholders to fit through the table. After doing this, I realized the table would slide back and forth and possible come out so I installed a screw on each edge to keep the table leg assembly in place. This was the result:

IMG_3842.jpg

IMG_3843.jpg


Upgrade Step #7 - Installing the new cupholders
When cutting the hole for the new cupholders, because the hole was the exact size of the cupholders it was very difficult to place them in. I ended up having to go back in and rotate the drill to get a little bit more wiggle room for them.

I was concerned about them inhibiting the ability of the table to fold and wanted them to be easily removable in case I needed to store my table. However, after installing the table was able to perfectly fold up without the new cupholders interfering!

Once this was done, I re-installed the stability wire and hinges on the table.

IMG_3846.jpg

IMG_3847.jpg
IMG_3849.jpg

IMG_3853.jpg



There are definitely some imperfections in the cloth installation but I can always remove the rails and adjust if need be. However, that's enough work for me. I am very happy with out this turned out. It looks really good! The speed cloth is a nice upgrade and my Yeti can now fit at the table!!

If you have any questions please let me know!


Thanks
 
@xovsop im thinking of upgrading the cup holders also to 3.5”….BUT…..

Are you having any issues with the new diameter holes being so much wider that it comes so close to the edge that it jeopardizes the structural strength and if a person were to lean on it could “snap”
 
@xovsop im thinking of upgrading the cup holders also to 3.5”….BUT…..

Are you having any issues with the new diameter holes being so much wider that it comes so close to the edge that it jeopardizes the structural strength and if a person were to lean on it could “snap”

Hey there,

Nope I have not had any issues. It's been pretty good mostly because the table is relatively thick. However, you bring up a good point, I would be careful about drilling too close to the edge. As long as you have an edge there you should be good.
 
Next step is to draw a betting line! Props for the upgrade, looks like a labor of love!
 
This is awesome! I have the same table and want to upgrade as well. This totally gives me the "x-ray" view so I can plan. Especially the cup holder upgrade and whether to go through the table. Thank you much for posting.
 
Do you regret having cup holders on the arm rests?

If you were buying a new poker table, would you skip the cup holders all together and just get little tables with wheels? I’m sure there are pros and cons to both.
 
This post helped me a ton! I bought the exact same cupholders, but got my hole saw and hole saw arbor from harbor freight and they did the job perfectly.

The main things I did differently from you is:

1. I drilled a guide hole with a smaller drill bit than my hole saw arbor from the top, then I turned the table over and drilled the actual 3.5" hole from the bottom of the table. When I got to the foam/canvas material I just used a sharp knife to cut them after the wood was already cut.

2. You're right the hole was still a little too small for the cup holders, so I taped a piece of low grit sandpaper to the outside of a 1.5 inch hole saw and ran that along the edge until the cupholders fit. It worked really well.

Sorry I didn't take pictures during the process, but here's the finished product!
IMG_0597.jpeg
IMG_0610.jpeg
IMG_0611.jpeg
IMG_0613.jpeg
 
Sorry if this is a little OT. My Barrington led table I got for Christmas is just a little imperfect. I know they're good bargains for the price (at Costco). But the vaneer on the wood on the outside has light scuffs. Is peeling and bubbling from day 1 in some places. My rail is slightly higher on the ends of the table. I noticed this when I installed cob leds. They sit snug on the table sides, but the rounded e ends they didn't; so I had to use the adhesive strip on the cob leds (over existing original strip). Also I have a staple showing/not fully down on the rail cushion by the leds on one end. Is some of this fixable? I was thinking if I upgrade the cup holders to remove the loose staple and restaple the vinyl better in that one spot. Not sure if the rail ends are being slightly higher are fixable though. I don't want to return it as I don't have a Costco in my town (it's an hour away) and I don't have the receipt and don't want to be rude asking the gifter. Thank you, this forum has been very helpful over the years I lurked.
 
A tip on removing the original Barrington cupholders…if you hit them with the heat gun it will warm the glue and they will just pop out. I had to replace one that got dinged during shipping. Barrington sent me a new cupholder and I had it swapped out in under a minute. Didn’t even have to add additional glue. Hopefully this saves others a lot of time, effort, and possible table damage.
 
Sorry if this is a little OT. My Barrington led table I got for Christmas is just a little imperfect. I know they're good bargains for the price (at Costco). But the vaneer on the wood on the outside has light scuffs. Is peeling and bubbling from day 1 in some places. My rail is slightly higher on the ends of the table. I noticed this when I installed cob leds. They sit snug on the table sides, but the rounded e ends they didn't; so I had to use the adhesive strip on the cob leds (over existing original strip). Also I have a staple showing/not fully down on the rail cushion by the leds on one end. Is some of this fixable? I was thinking if I upgrade the cup holders to remove the loose staple and restaple the vinyl better in that one spot. Not sure if the rail ends are being slightly higher are fixable though. I don't want to return it as I don't have a Costco in my town (it's an hour away) and I don't have the receipt and don't want to be rude asking the gifter. Thank you, this forum has been very helpful over the years I lurked.
Cob lights worth it? Got any pics?
 
Cob lights worth it? Got any pics?
My bad just seen this. Absolutely worth it. (tl;dr) get the tried and true products listed here, lol. Because my headache is blogged below


Bought some clip on wire leads from aliexpress for cheap but they were too wide to clip on (I even made sure the width was right) so instead I clipped them and soldered to the led strip pads. Definitely need a dimmer as well, I also got that from Chyna but that's all good. I got battery pack from there but it was defective (I should've got that from Amazon). Anyways. I got super ocd, and wanted to try a different brand cob strip that had more dots per inch, so I removed the one I bought (btf lighting, it's a good led BTW, I just saw a different one and thought it was better) it ended up being not as advertised and wasn't 3000k, was whiter. Had to remove, order the original linked here from "btf lighting" again that I had. Then my nephew convinced me to remove the old ones that came on the Barrington and stick it on direct to last longer.... Yea don't do that lol. It does adhere well but it sinks too far in and chips curl under. So, I removed, bought this foaming tape used for window insulation https://a.co/d/1iSiU7F to give it thicker backing. Problem is, the cob light adhesive refuses to stick to the foam backing, I even tried a fresh strip I had laying around, it just doesn't like it lol. It constantly kicks out. So now I'm gonna try some adhesive in a glue applicator and run a bead on the foam to get the led strip to stick. Just super glued the end pieces (opposite the controller side) to keep it down and taught. Hopefully I will get to that project this weekend. Was unsure on a thin glue that would work in a needle tip glue bottle and is foam friendly and doesn't run too much, have some e6000 laying around, but it's too viscous to run out the applicator, especially in my kinda cold CO home, so I'm gonna prewarm it in some hot water then try.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom