Breakdown and chip set size for a .25/.50 game (1 Viewer)

Maybe our games play different, I have never had a 0.50-0.50 game I've hosted exceed $2000. I've had 0.50-1 go over that total.
Our 0.25/0.50 NLHE game gets 1k-2k in the bank regularly. When we went to circus games that number increased a good amount. The big stack is reguarly over 1k in those games. I cashed out over 1500 once in our 0.25/0.50 circus game.

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This thread has highlighted one thing for sure - some of you should stop bothering with fracs and .25/.50 stakes at all. "Degen" is not the word for getting 10k+ on the table, it just means you are playing with too small of blinds.
I would say if we ran tables that were 2k deep, it would be 1/2 for sure. When the total buyins are less than $1k but over $500, we stick to .50/1. These friendly games of $20-$60 buyins are the only reason I have a .25 frac. And in some cases when I'm playing with my aunts and uncles, we stick to .25/.25. It's all about being able to pivot depending on the crowd.
 
To be safe, I am thinking of just suggesting:

.25 x100
$1 x200
$5 x200
$25 x200
$100 x100
This is the breakdown I went with but also added a barrel of $500. While we play .25/.50 cash, we also switch it up to a T5-ish (5/10) tourney with 1k-1.5k starting stacks (blinds don’t increase frequently though) as an alternate “cash game”. Gave us some flexibility to keep the same dollar buy-in but change up starting stacks and blinds.
 
This thread has highlighted one thing for sure - some of you should stop bothering with fracs and .25/.50 stakes at all. "Degen" is not the word for getting 10k+ on the table, it just means you are playing with too small of blinds.
There’s something to be said about deep stack though.
 
My favorite breakdown suggestion is 100/300/160/40 of 0.25/1/5/25.

That's enough ones to cover two tables. Nowadays I stop putting ones out at 150 (all ones and quarters go out with the initial buy ins). I think more than 200 would drive me crazy* lol. I do keep some extra behind just in case I need to make some change or have an obscure buy in of $83 (yes it has happened :LOL: :laugh: ).

This gives you a bank of $1925 (add $75 of small bills and you know your box always has a smooth $2000)...
But in any case 100 twenties is way overkill 40 for this stake is plenty.

I get over $2k in play pretty routinely, and I don't consider my game to be particularly wild. Each game is so different, depending on the players and the cap structure. So I'd caution against shorting overall bank over a couple barrels of high denomination chips. That's really their function after all.

I'm an advocate of the 80/20 bank rack, $25/$100. With two racks of fives, $5k+ of bank should cover just about any reasonable table. More fives are fine but not necessary. If the player pool/cap structure mean the game is likely to go ape, you might go 60/40, or just do a full rack each of the $25/$100 and have a five figure bank.

*Edit: as a banker. As a player I don't really care all that much as long as it works
 
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I get over $2k in play pretty routinely, and I don't consider my game to be particularly wild. Each game is so different, depending on the players and the cap structure. So I'd caution against shorting overall bank over a couple barrels of high denomination chips. That's really their function after all.
True. The buy in structure does matter. I am very much against any buy in "escalators." If a game is 60 max, it stays 60 max. If it's 150 max, it stays 150 max. Now that you bring this up, I am guessing there are a lot of match-the-stack escalators in play in those games. Circus games are an effect too. Even just Omaha plays bigger than hold'em. It's mostly NLHE in my home games, don't have enough players willing to play other things other than the occasional limit mix game.

I'm an advocate of the 80/20 bank rack, $25/$100. With two racks of fives, $5k+ of bank should cover just about any reasonable table. More fives are fine but not necessary. If the player pool/cap structure mean the game is likely to go ape, you might go 60/40, or just do a full rack each of the $25/$100 and have a five figure bank.
I do have one such rack in a 2000 chip set and I have NEVER used the hundreds and have only used the 25s once. I also have a full rack of 20s which I have only used a few times. (I do have a full rack for limit play mostly. We do 2/4 with optional overs to 4/8, so having some 20s is a must with only one rack of singles available per player.)

In the end, I guess if you are limited to 600 chips be smart about it. Don't over buy high denoms that will almost never get used. Certainly don't waste a full rack on this part of your set. Figure out the fracs you need to get buy and bulk up on workhorses.
 
Damn, some of your 0.25/0.50 games must be wild in comparison to mine. Never more than eight players and we rarely get to see a £20 chip on the table with the following breakdown (which is perfect for my game, btw):

100 x £0.25
300 x £1
200 x £5
20 X £20
 
True. The buy in structure does matter. I am very much against any buy in "escalators." If a game is 60 max, it stays 60 max. If it's 150 max, it stays 150 max.

Agreed. I use a fixed cap of $100.

Now that you bring this up, I am guessing there are a lot of match-the-stack escalators in play in those games. Circus games are an effect too. Even just Omaha plays bigger than hold'em. It's mostly NLHE in my home games, don't have enough players willing to play other things other than the occasional limit mix game.

For sure. A $200 cap and match the stack circus table is a completely different bank demand than a $60 NL HE only game.

I do have one such rack in a 2000 chip set and I have NEVER used the hundreds and have only used the 25s once. I also have a full rack of 20s which I have only used a few times. (I do have a full rack for limit play mostly. We do 2/4 with optional overs to 4/8, so having some 20s is a must with only one rack of singles available per player.)

I use my $20s every time. I sometimes bail on them after 2-3 barrels and just go to hundos, because I can :) . I sometimes don't.

In the end, I guess if you are limited to 600 chips be smart about it. Don't over buy high denoms that will almost never get used. Certainly don't waste a full rack on this part of your set. Figure out the fracs you need to get buy and bulk up on workhorses.

Yep. 100/200/200/80/20 fits nicely into six racks, has enough quarters, ones, and fives to function smoothly, and has enough bank to cover any reasonable table. Beyond that you probably need more than 600.

If someone wants more fracs, and to stay inside 600, I'd pull from the ones, then the bank, maybe: 120/180/200/80/20 or 160/160/200/60/20.

My 2c
 
.25 x100
$1 x200
$5 x200
$20 x100

Is this enough for a typical .25/.50 game? Let me know your thoughts.
It's been a while since I played .25/50, but this breakdown is almost exactly what I used for a single table.

If he regularly plays with 10 players, there's something to be said for having 12 quarters for every player, so .25 x 120 (and could go with only 80 $20 chips to keep the set at an exact 600 chips).

If it's more desirable to have full racks of 1 denomination only, then your breakdown above is perfect.
 

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