Can you link a pic of said oval patches? TY.
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Building a poker table (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mummel
- Start date
Can you link a pic of said oval patches? TY.
manamongkids
Full House
atomiktoaster
Full House
http://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/understanding-plywood-grades/view-all
Check the pic with the "football" patches on the B grade face. That said, you are probably fine with a piece of BC ply. Just hand pick a good one.
Anyone know this seller? Legit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-buil...321853?hash=item2a5b981c7d:g:8RIAAOSw7hRWPeJE
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-buil...321853?hash=item2a5b981c7d:g:8RIAAOSw7hRWPeJE
Richard Cranium
3 of a Kind
What exactly do you want on your table?
So far based on what I've read it looks like an oval 8 person, full felt SSC, folding legs, raised rail with LED. That sound right?
So far based on what I've read it looks like an oval 8 person, full felt SSC, folding legs, raised rail with LED. That sound right?
Poker Zombie
Royal Flush
When I built my 1st table, even with plans, things went wrong. Things always go wrong. Like when I thought the deck I was building everything on was level, so everything was perfect until I brought it into the house.
I typically recommend building your own table. I have no woodworking skills, and built three. What I can do is make many last minute adjustments that I know will work, because I understand how physics and geometry work, and have a veritable smorgasbord of miscellaneous knowledge to draw upon to derive final solutions. I also have a very bright wife that can fill in the gaps that I lack (like everything involving sewing).
If you think that at any point you might get trapped in a corner that you cannot think your way out of, you should avoid that route altogether. A T-Chan or BBO table will cost more, but you cannot put a price on a lost thumb or eye (you did not have "safety goggles" in your purchase list, and I suspect you don't actually have any just sitting around). And professional tables are excellent.
BBO tables are built stateside, so shipping may be less, but I will always advocate for T-Chan as I know his tables are top notch.
I typically recommend building your own table. I have no woodworking skills, and built three. What I can do is make many last minute adjustments that I know will work, because I understand how physics and geometry work, and have a veritable smorgasbord of miscellaneous knowledge to draw upon to derive final solutions. I also have a very bright wife that can fill in the gaps that I lack (like everything involving sewing).
If you think that at any point you might get trapped in a corner that you cannot think your way out of, you should avoid that route altogether. A T-Chan or BBO table will cost more, but you cannot put a price on a lost thumb or eye (you did not have "safety goggles" in your purchase list, and I suspect you don't actually have any just sitting around). And professional tables are excellent.
BBO tables are built stateside, so shipping may be less, but I will always advocate for T-Chan as I know his tables are top notch.
Skitzo6_6_6
High Hand
Did you ever build the table?
I was in Mummel's shoes for several years. It seems daunting with no prior knowledge and having never built anything...much less a snazzy looking poker table. Since my initial plan to build, it's taken me around 4 years to finally doing it... Lol. Talk about cold feet.
I didn't make a thread asking for all things there are to know.... Not that there's anything wrong with that. I just felt that there was already an abundance of info and similar threads in various message boards and actual web pages with enough to get the gist. Coupled with that, in the back of my mind I knew that it would be a while so leaving a 4 year gap from the planning stage to actual build was something I wanted to avoid... Not that I knew it would be that long....I just didn't want to pressure myself without being completely confident & comfortable. Lol.
I researched it all, all the topics you all have discussed, countless threads with so many experiences and man... What a great resource! I thank you all. We've all been there, starting out, so you know the appreciation is genuine.
I made a thread here the other day, to cover only about 2 minor nuances that weren't very clear to me even after searching high and low for posts that covered those same specifics. I think I saw Irish or MoscowRadio ask how it went about to garner the best results upholstering a raised rail with dealer cut out but not much feedback was left and think he tackled the task balls out, and did great.
As an interim solution to not having built my table yet...in order to host my games, I bought some used tables, none going over about $60, albeit not that great... At least not up to par with you all's great tables.... But it's gotten the job done. Truthfully though... for the money... they're actually pretty nice. And it isn't until after these last 4 years of a tremendous amount of research, lurking on all these poker message boards....looking under poker tables when playing at a casino or local poker room, examining the ins and outs...only then did I feel confident to get the ball rolling.
And boy.... I've come a long way I think, from being completely ignorant on the subject to now the midway of finishing my first build. Here's where I'm at currently. I know I'm not done yet... the most important, and hardest part, upholstering the rail is next.... but even at this point I feel a tremendous amount of pride, having come this far.
I didn't make a thread asking for all things there are to know.... Not that there's anything wrong with that. I just felt that there was already an abundance of info and similar threads in various message boards and actual web pages with enough to get the gist. Coupled with that, in the back of my mind I knew that it would be a while so leaving a 4 year gap from the planning stage to actual build was something I wanted to avoid... Not that I knew it would be that long....I just didn't want to pressure myself without being completely confident & comfortable. Lol.
I researched it all, all the topics you all have discussed, countless threads with so many experiences and man... What a great resource! I thank you all. We've all been there, starting out, so you know the appreciation is genuine.
I made a thread here the other day, to cover only about 2 minor nuances that weren't very clear to me even after searching high and low for posts that covered those same specifics. I think I saw Irish or MoscowRadio ask how it went about to garner the best results upholstering a raised rail with dealer cut out but not much feedback was left and think he tackled the task balls out, and did great.
As an interim solution to not having built my table yet...in order to host my games, I bought some used tables, none going over about $60, albeit not that great... At least not up to par with you all's great tables.... But it's gotten the job done. Truthfully though... for the money... they're actually pretty nice. And it isn't until after these last 4 years of a tremendous amount of research, lurking on all these poker message boards....looking under poker tables when playing at a casino or local poker room, examining the ins and outs...only then did I feel confident to get the ball rolling.
And boy.... I've come a long way I think, from being completely ignorant on the subject to now the midway of finishing my first build. Here's where I'm at currently. I know I'm not done yet... the most important, and hardest part, upholstering the rail is next.... but even at this point I feel a tremendous amount of pride, having come this far.
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I was in Mummel's shoes for several years. It seems daunting with no prior knowledge and having never built anything...much less a snazzy looking poker table. Since my initial plan to build, it's taken me around 4 years to finally doing it... Lol. Talk about cold feet.
I didn't make a thread asking for all things there are to know.... Not that there's anything wrong with that. I just felt that there was already an abundance of info and similar threads in various message boards and actual web pages with enough to get the gist. Coupled with that, in the back of my mind I knew that it would be a while so leaving a 4 year gap from the planning stage to actual build was something I wanted to avoid... Not that I knew it would be that long....I just didn't want to pressure myself without being completely confident & comfortable. Lol.
I researched it all, all the topics you all have discussed, countless threads with so many experiences and man... What a great resource! I thank you all. We've all been there, starting out, so you know the appreciation is genuine.
I made a thread here the other day, to cover only about 2 minor nuances that weren't very clear to me even after searching high and low for posts that covered those same specifics. I think I saw Irish or MoscowRadio ask how it went about to garner the best results upholstering a raised rail with dealer cut out but not much feedback was left and think he tackled the task balls out, and did great.
As an interim solution to not having built my table yet...in order to host my games, I bought some used tables, none going over about $60, albeit not that great... At least not up to par with you all's great tables.... But it's gotten the job done. Truthfully though... for the money... they're actually pretty nice. And it isn't until after these last 4 years of a tremendous about of research, lurking on all these poker message boards....looking under poker tables when playing at a casino or local poker room, examining the ins and outs...only then did I feel confident to get the ball rolling.
And boy.... I've come a long way I think, from being completely ignorant on the subject to now the midway of finishing my first build. Here's where I'm at currently. I know I'm not done yet... the most important, and hardest part, upholstering the rail is next.... but even at this point I feel a tremendous amount of pride, having come this far.
Can I ask how you're planning to attach the rail to the play surface? I'd strongly recommend t-nuts/bolts, as opposed to screwing in from the bottom. Allows for easier removal for upkeep, refelting, etc... The only reason I ask is I don't see any t-nuts in the top?
Here's how I do it. I clamp the rail/play surface together, then I drill a pilot hole (1/4") through 6-8 spots evenly spaced on the rail. I then use a hole boring bit to create a recess for the t-nut (you don't want to feel it through the foam). Then I further secure it with gorilla glue. The following pictures aren't on the rail, but were how I secured my play surface to the sub-base. Same principle.
Found a pic of the rail bolt spacing:
And as far as value: $1100 in materials + sweat equity = $3000 table (pride you feel telling folks you built it yourself = priceless)
I'd strongly recommend building yourself. My first table wasn't THIS nice, but it was still nice. Maybe $350 in materials, but you'll have 2-3x the value when you're done. You'll also gain experience.
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Skitzo6_6_6
High Hand
Truly a work of art! (y) :thumbsup:
Does everyone secure the rail down? I was thinking the weight of the rail would keep it in place, and just lift it off for cleaning. Anyone NOT secure the rail? Thoughts?
IMHO, I'd secure the rail. You get one hefty guy on one side who stands up using the rail as leverage, and the other side will flip up. Additionally, it adds stiffness/stability to the play surface.. Kinda of like when you're packing nice chips to ship, you want them all snugged up together, no movement. The t-nuts make removal easier.
I use the same method that @Trihonda detailed using T-nuts, gorilla glue and bolts. Makes it easy to remove and clean and keeps things secure in the meantime.
The weight of the rail will keep it in place pretty well and it shouldn't move around - the issue is more so to keep the rail fully in contact with the playing surface all the way around. Otherwise, you run the risk of creating tiny gaps underneath the rail that are just big enough for a card to slide underneath the rail. The benefit of a bolted connection vs screws is you can easily tighten the bolt if its gets loose without worrying about stripping a screw.
The bolts referenced are hex-head bolts, which can be installed with a ratchet wrench. Also, include a large washer with the bolt so that you don't end up screwing the bolt into the plywood. The washer distributes the pressure from the bolt over a larger area and spares damage to the plywood.
I use ones similar to this and don't tighten them down a ton. They pull up snug, but never had one dig into the plywood.
@Trihonda ... Oh definitely using T-nuts and all that other stuff. Not pictured as well are the cup holder holes evenly spaced out with rings and what not. I used a spade bit to counter-sink the T-nut a bit. I really like that idea of gorilla gluing the T-nut in place prior to upholstering it....to keep it from stripping the wood and spinning later through the years. Thanks for that tip. Can't say I'd ever seen that mentioned before. Makes complete sense
Just be careful not to get it on the inner threads. On some builds that required t-nuts in the play surface, I've taken small bits of tape and covered the hole, applied glue, then after the glue dried, I finished it off with wood putty filling the exposed area. Sanded it smooth afterwards, ya never new it was there.
Poker Zombie
Royal Flush
I did not secure the rail on first or my third table, and it has never been an issue. It might be different for those using a raised rail, but for the standard padded rail, the weight + the snug fit over the foam keeps it secure. No gap exists. Cannot lose a card of a chip under the rail.
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