Cash Game Chip breakdown 5¢/10¢ to 25¢/50¢ (2 Viewers)

Thank both for the information! Does player experience factor into this at all? I'll be playing with 6 people total and most of them will be complete noobs (they might know most of the rules, maybe not) and/or haven't played in 10 years. I expect to be the most knowledgable person there (I have vague understandings of ranges, betting strategies, etc.), but I also haven't played in 10+ years. Does deeper or shallower stack benefit inexperienced players?

In general deeper benefit experienced players. Maybe you just suggest $10 buy in "to start" for their own good, and if they get comfortable and want to raise the cap to 20 they can. Players often underestimate how quick a whole stack can go in NLHE. They may think they are comfortable buying in for 20, but are they comfortable doing 1-2 rebuys after that? If not, it's a sign the buy-in is too high and your game may break early if the wrong players get broke.
 
In general deeper benefit experienced players. Maybe you just suggest $10 buy in "to start" for their own good, and if they get comfortable and want to raise the cap to 20 they can. Players often underestimate how quick a whole stack can go in NLHE. They may think they are comfortable buying in for 20, but are they comfortable doing 1-2 rebuys after that? If not, it's a sign the buy-in is too high and your game may break early if the wrong players get broke.
It's a good question. I've asked them if they are okay with a $20 buy in with the possibility of 1-2 rebuys. A few have said that's fine. So, let me ask one more question (sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I keep reading lots of different advice that causes me to flip flop). If my players want to buy in for $20, and don't have a problem with 1 or 2 rebuys, would you recommend 5c/10c (200 BB buy in) or 25c/25c (80 BB buy in, but I could also allow them to buy in for $25 if they want)?

Personally, I prefer 25c/25c. I'll call almost anything for 40 cents, and I want to avoid a game that plays that way. I think a few of the players might think the same.
 
If my players want to buy in for $20, and don't have a problem with 1 or 2 rebuys
Just another tip about stakes - Everybody playing in a big bet cash game should be ready and willing to buy in three times. Not that everybody has to. But 1) getting felted is a normal thing to happen in NLHE - if you're not willing to risk your whole stack, you're not really playing right, and 2) if somebody is only prepared to lose one buy-in, they're probably playing over their heads.
 
It's a good question. I've asked them if they are okay with a $20 buy in with the possibility of 1-2 rebuys. A few have said that's fine. So, let me ask one more question (sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but I keep reading lots of different advice that causes me to flip flop). If my players want to buy in for $20, and don't have a problem with 1 or 2 rebuys, would you recommend 5c/10c (200 BB buy in) or 25c/25c (80 BB buy in, but I could also allow them to buy in for $25 if they want)?

Personally, I prefer 25c/25c. I'll call almost anything for 40 cents, and I want to avoid a game that plays that way. I think a few of the players might think the same.
To simplify the question would they prefer to play an 80BB deep game or a 200BB deep game. I guess shallower is better and if they are comfortable with the money, maybe 0.25-0.25 is better.

That does change your stack planning however. You actually will need fewer quarters than planned if quarters will be the "blind chip" and not the "workhorse" chip."

So I would do more like 20/15 of 0.25/1 for starting stacks. In a 6-handed game, I would only put 100 quarters out and then just do singles and fives for buy ins after that. The singles will be the most important chip with these blinds.

Hope it helps,
 
General question: Is there any reason that the breakdown for a 5c/10c game would be different than a $5/$10 game, just with cents instead of dollars?

Probably the two games play a little differently, but in theory they ought to require the same proper ions, I’d think.
 

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