Custom artwork group buy. US/CAN CARDS MOLD (5 Viewers)

[SeanGecko]

I've selected on purpose a different inlay color, but indeed, I could let the base color as inlay background.

The only thing is that the inlay border won't be visible. Don't you think it'd be an issue ?

And for the primary set indeed, after checking, there shall not be dirty stack issue.

For the secondary set, would you pick a more yellow than arc yellow T1000 ?

Thanks for your feedback !

Also, I'll revisit the gradient on "Vegas". It's too dark on the right side.

Maybe also remove the suites to make the test of the logo bigger ? This could be a good Idea to improve the chances of a good quality printing... Or make it 15/16" inlay instead of 7/8" ? It'd render like a Casablanca or Horseshoe Club Gardena THC then. I think it'd be a good Idea for such a busy inlay to have a bigger one (15/16" instead of 7/8") ... Also, doing this would render better on the sec. I think as the inlay color exactly matches the base color. The rim would mark the limit between "inlay" and base chip.

I'll test all these tomorrow.

Agree with getting rid of the suits. It's a lot in there.

 

[BGinGA]

I've selected on purpose a different inlay color, but indeed, I could let the base color as inlay background.

The only thing is that the inlay border won't be visible. Don't you think it'd be an issue ?

And for the primary set indeed, after checking, there shall not be dirty stack issue.

For the secondary set, would you pick a more yellow than arc yellow T1000 ?

Thanks for your feedback !

Also, I'll revisit the gradient on "Vegas". It's too dark on the right side.

Maybe also remove the suites to make the test of the logo bigger ? This could be a good Idea to improve the chances of a good quality printing... Or make it 15/16" inlay instead of 7/8" ? It'd render like a Casablanca or Horseshoe Club Gardena THC then. I think it'd be a good Idea for such a busy inlay to have a bigger one (15/16" instead of 7/8") ... Also, doing this would render better on the sec. I think as the inlay color exactly matches the base color. The rim would mark the limit between "inlay" and base chip.

I'll test all these tomorrow.

Questions, in order:
No. The recess outine should suffice.

No. Arc yellow ftw.

No. Instead, I'd remove the "Series" text, enlarge the Vegas logo, and go with just "Vegas Poker". Also allows semi-custom use, i.e. "Boston Poker" or "Pete's Poker".

No. I think a larger 'inlay' size will look pretty weird.

I do think this artwork works better with a larger 15/16" 'inlay' size, but not on a chip with a 7/8" recess. Looking forward to seeing results of your tests.

 

[AnteAndy]

No. Arc yellow ftw.

I still think the 1k should have a more vibrant yellow, where the arc yellow looks muted/muddy compared to most other base colors in the set, both in photos and in vector. It also looks somewhat similar to the T25's base color especially when stacked vertically to each other in the vector image.

Also the orange edgespot in the pink 5k blends together with its base where it gets lost. And the T100 &T500 both have the same edgespot color with their other edge colors somewhat close in hue, but I didn't notice or realized until actively looking for possible dirty stack issues.

 

[BGinGA]

I still think the 1k should have a more vibrant yellow, where the arc yellow looks muted/muddy compared to most other base colors in the set, both in photos and in vector. It also looks somewhat similar to the T25's base color especially when stacked vertically to each other in the vector image.

Also the orange edgespot in the pink 5k blends together with its base where it gets lost. And the T100 &T500 both have the same edgespot color with their other edge colors somewhat close in hue, but I didn't notice or realized until actively looking for possible dirty stack issues.

Arc yellow is about as far from 'muted' as colors go, and is nowhere near lime green (the T25 color). The inlay color is about right, but that T1000 base color is way off.

The fuchsia T5000 chip spot colors should be radiant red and off-white.

 

[SeanGecko]

So more custom artwork that a person could jump on and I am still waiting on 7 others......hmmmmm

 

[BarrieJ3]

So more custom artwork that a person could jump on and I am still waiting on 7 others......hmmmmm

Tranquilo

 

[Bluegrass Poker]

I thought you were a man of class. If your case rests on Skyline Chili, I have to reevaluate my judgement of character.

I know. Gold Star is much better.

 

[TheDuke]

So more custom artwork that a person could jump on and I am still waiting on 7 others......hmmmmm

Maybe you could set a firm deadline for everyone (the 7 stragglers and everyone else) to finalize their order numbers? Drop dead date where absolutely no changes afterwards?

You could then get a final $$ figure from the manufacturer and start collecting payments from everyone. Safe to assume the manufacturer won't start with the test print runs until money is in hand?

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Maybe you could set a firm deadline for everyone (the 7 stragglers and everyone else) to finalize their order numbers? Drop dead date where absolutely no changes afterwards?

You could then get a final $$ figure from the manufacturer and start collecting payments from everyone. Safe to assume the manufacturer won't start with the test print runs until money is in hand?

I'm one of those stragglers. My numbers were firm until just finding out about the price increase on plaques. I have revised numbers, but just want to run the changes I'm considering past Tim who has been on holiday. I can submit numbers that are 95% certain.

 

[TheDuke]

I'm one of those stragglers. My numbers were firm until just finding out about the price increase on plaques. I have revised numbers, but just want to run the changes I'm considering past Tim who has been on holiday. I can submit numbers that are 95% certain.

I think I've submitted final figures... but then @Kid_Eastwood posts more amazing designs and I want to order a 3rd set. Maybe even a 4th because those China Club sets are ridiculously nice as well. I want all of these nice sets with literally zero chance I'm going to host a game before sometime in 2021. I don't seem to think rationally when it comes to poker chips.

 

[SeanGecko]

Tim will be in contact with me. I'll drop him a line to ask estimate when he's done. The stragglers are due to the limited amount of artist. This was known before we started. Great art takes time!

 

[realcdn]

I wanted to change the NCC $1 chip to a 1/4 pie as my OCD was getting the best of me and the tri-moon chip just looked out of place. But I get why it was done that way.

Anyway, Tim was willing to do a couple of mocks for me and I’m looking for opinions on what people think looks best. The light cream or the pink? Or another colour suggestion?

Thanks!

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

I wanted to change the NCC $1 chip to a 1/4 pie as my OCD was getting the best of me and the tri-moon chip just looked out of place. But I get why it was done that way.

Anyway, Tim was willing to do a couple of mocks for me and I’m looking for opinions on what people think looks best. The light cream or the pink? Or another colour suggestion?

Thanks!

View attachment 506870
View attachment 506871

For a $1 chip, definitely the cream and blue. The pink and blue looks more like a Frac or a high denomination chip to me.

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Questions, in order:
No. The recess outine should suffice.

No. Arc yellow ftw.

No. Instead, I'd remove the "Series" text, enlarge the Vegas logo, and go with just "Vegas Poker". Also allows semi-custom use, i.e. "Boston Poker" or "Pete's Poker".

No. I think a larger 'inlay' size will look pretty weird.

I do think this artwork works better with a larger 15/16" 'inlay' size, but not on a chip with a 7/8" recess. Looking forward to seeing results of your tests.

The recess zone is not 7/8" on the cards molds, it's 1" (like a THC chip). So 15/16" shall be just perfect.

For Arc yellow, you think I shall use the one of the inlay instead of the base chip ?

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

I made the inlay bigger (15/16 instead of 7/8") and for the secondary set, inlay color matches base color.

For the secondary set, I made the base color of the T25 as "may green" to have more contrast with the T1000. The T5000 of the secondary set is a real Fuschia also. Since I use spot color "Coral" for the T5000, I made the spot color of the 25000 as "Nectar Peach" to not have 2 consecutive chips with a same spot color.

The gradient of "Vegas" is also lighter.

It'll really be important to check the samples for the white outines on the sec. set.

Another option is to have a white inlay but with a gradient from the base color to white. Like that no white ouline will be required on the sec. inlays.

 

[AnteAndy]

I made the inlay bigger (15/16 instead of 7/8") and for the secondary set, inlay color matches base color.

For the secondary set, I made the base color of the T25 as "may green" to have more contrast with the T1000. The T5000 of the secondary set is a real Fuschia also. Since I use spot color "Coral" for the T5000, I made the spot color of the 25000 as "Nectar Peach" to not have 2 consecutive chips with a same spot color.

The gradient of "Vegas" is also lighter.


View attachment 506956

It'll really be important to check the samples for the white outines on the sec. set.

Another option is to have a white inlay but with a gradient from the base color to white. Like that no white outline will be required on the sec. inlays.

For the Secs, I think you were fine keeping the inlay colors as they were in the original version with being a separate darker color. There will be a indented ring on the physical chip, but the darker color in the original inlays helped make the chips stand out more in general.

The gradient in the Vegas logo is much better.

 

[Jake14mw]

I made the inlay bigger (15/16 instead of 7/8") and for the secondary set, inlay color matches base color.

For the secondary set, I made the base color of the T25 as "may green" to have more contrast with the T1000. The T5000 of the secondary set is a real Fuschia also. Since I use spot color "Coral" for the T5000, I made the spot color of the 25000 as "Nectar Peach" to not have 2 consecutive chips with a same spot color.

The gradient of "Vegas" is also lighter.


View attachment 506956

It'll really be important to check the samples for the white outines on the sec. set.

Another option is to have a white inlay but with a gradient from the base color to white. Like that no white ouline will be required on the sec. inlays.

Why are you tempting me??!!!

 

[AnteAndy]

I made the inlay bigger (15/16 instead of 7/8") and for the secondary set, inlay color matches base color.

For the secondary set, I made the base color of the T25 as "may green" to have more contrast with the T1000. The T5000 of the secondary set is a real Fuschia also. Since I use spot color "Coral" for the T5000, I made the spot color of the 25000 as "Nectar Peach" to not have 2 consecutive chips with a same spot color.

The gradient of "Vegas" is also lighter.


View attachment 506956

It'll really be important to check the samples for the white outines on the sec. set.

Another option is to have a white inlay but with a gradient from the base color to white. Like that no white ouline will be required on the sec. inlays.

Also I still think that Sec T1k base color is still has some slight green or orange in there as well. The base color of the Primary yellow T1k looks much better compared to the Sec T1k's base, even with the original orange inlay color.

JUST NOTICED: definitely liking the new Sec T25, much more closer to lime green. And liked that you changed the pink spot color in the T25k since it may have caused a dirty stack issue with the T5K since they're next to each other in denomination order.

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

So, I made T1000 sec as Tangerine instead of Pale Yellow SunFly color. I want to stick with an arc yellow for it.

I made 2 versions.

1) Sec. with inlay = base color

2) Sec. with inlay = 25% darker than base color

 

[AnteAndy]

So, I made T1000 sec as Tangerine instead of Pale Yellow SunFly color. I want to stick with an arc yellow for it.

I made 2 versions.

1) Sec. with inlay = base color

View attachment 507022

2) Sec. with inlay = 25% darker than base color

View attachment 507023

Bottom version for Sec set. That separate inlay color just helps make the inlay stand out more. T1k Tangerine base looks better.

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

The only thing I fear is how the white outline will render when printing on the ceramic.
If someone wants to order this, we'll need a "plan B" in case the outline does not turn good. Something with a gradient maybe.

 

[BGinGA]

So, I made T1000 sec as Tangerine instead of Pale Yellow SunFly color. I want to stick with an arc yellow for it.

I made 2 versions.

1) Sec. with inlay = base color

View attachment 507022

2) Sec. with inlay = 25% darker than base color

View attachment 507023

Much prefer the more authentic color-matched inlay areas. New arc yellow T1000 is spot-on.

Suggested secondary spot color changes:
T5 -- mustard (not bright yellow)
T25 -- orchid/grape (light lavender and very dark purple, almost black)
T100 -- russet/sea green (dark brown and light greenish-blue)
T5000 -- still need to make the radiant red spot stand out more

I'm not a fan of the T25000 1/4-pie, much preferring the original 818-spotted T25k Indian Blue with carrot/mint green spots. If going with the later charcoal T25k quarter-pie, the spots are peach and sherbet orange (and almost identical colors).

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Much prefer the more authentic color-matched inlay areas. New arc yellow T1000 is spot-on.

Suggested secondary spot color changes:
T5 -- mustard (not bright yellow)
T25 -- orchid/grape (light lavender and very dark purple, almost black)
T100 -- russet/sea green (dark brown and light greenish-blue)
T5000 -- still need to make the radiant red spot stand out more

I'm not a fan of the T25000 1/4-pie, much preferring the original 818-spotted T25k Indian Blue with carrot/mint green spots. If going with the later charcoal T25k quarter-pie, the spots are peach and sherbet orange (and almost identical colors).

I know some colors are not 100% correct. I've approximated them with the SunFly palette :

So for T5, maybe use "butter" instead of yellow ?
For T25, orchid instead of neon and black instead of Burgundy ?
For T100, I used Turquoise. Viridian would be too dark I think.
For T5000, I don't see a good alternative for radian red. I used "coral" from the SunFly palette.

The first 818 T25,000 should then be Forest Green but it did not contrasted too well with Fuschia.

I'll some tests later.

Thanks for your useful feedback !

I'll leave both versions. One with exact color match and one with a darker inlay. I also think I prefer exact color match but I'm not sure.

 

[GetUrShineBox]

So, I made T1000 sec as Tangerine instead of Pale Yellow SunFly color. I want to stick with an arc yellow for it.

I made 2 versions.

1) Sec. with inlay = base color

View attachment 507022

2) Sec. with inlay = 25% darker than base color

View attachment 507023

I like the set on the bottom right with the darker inlays.

I would be interested in seeing the brown spot on the 100 changed to orange or arc yellow to match the 1000.
Also the maroon on the green changed since the 1000 also has maroon and its very close in color to the purple.
Also not totally crazy about the 25k but not sure about suggestions. Maybe something w light blue and brown.

 

[SeanGecko]

From Tina
"we will start to made samples tomorrow."

 

[JeepologyOffroad]

From Tina
"we will start to made samples tomorrow."

 

[GetUrShineBox]

From Tina
"we will start to made samples tomorrow."

Tina!!! Pick me!!! Pick me!!!

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Much prefer the more authentic color-matched inlay areas. New arc yellow T1000 is spot-on.

Suggested secondary spot color changes:
T5 -- mustard (not bright yellow)
T25 -- orchid/grape (light lavender and very dark purple, almost black)
T100 -- russet/sea green (dark brown and light greenish-blue)
T5000 -- still need to make the radiant red spot stand out more

I'm not a fan of the T25000 1/4-pie, much preferring the original 818-spotted T25k Indian Blue with carrot/mint green spots. If going with the later charcoal T25k quarter-pie, the spots are peach and sherbet orange (and almost identical colors).

Here're some variations :

T5 with "yellow" (as-is)

T5 with "butter" (lighter)

T25 with neon and burgundy (as-is)

T25 with orchid and black

T25 with neon and black

T100 Medium Brown and Turquoise (as-is)

T100 Medium Brown and Viridian

T100 Service Brown (darker) and Turquoise

T100 Service Brown and Viridian

I'll work on the 25,000 818 too.

Kid.

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

And here's a T25,000 (forest) next to the T5000.

With a lighter T25000 (waterlilly color)

I much prefer the second one. It fits better in the set.

 

[AnteAndy]

T100 Medium Brown and Viridian

And here's a T25,000 (forest) next to the T5000.

View attachment 507365

With a lighter T25000 (waterlilly color)

View attachment 507368

I much prefer the second one. It fits better in the set.

Personal choices:

- T5 with "butter" (lighter)
- T25 with neon and black
- T100 Medium Brown and Viridian
- T25,000 (forest)