EightyWon, as you know, i'm working on a similar project with some retrogaming theme. For the sake of discussion and to partially answer to your post, i thought it would be useful to share the current mockup of the GUI i'm currently implementing (used BGinGa idea for the name but i will take it out if asked ofc, as i was answered for your project ). So the idea is to run this on a computer. I might develop something for the dealer in the future, i'm currently thinking of a stream deck, but i think the dealer already has to be 100% focus on the action going, so his input for the rfid system should be minimal.Still doing stuff while I wait for a few of the components to come in at the fab shop (might still be a few weeks).
I've started researching and designing v2 of the rfid reader. Early stages but going well. I'm taking extra time to do it right this time in various ways.
I've also started working on a redesign of the frontend in go instead of node/angular as mentioned before. Making good progress here, too.
Been spending some time considering from a UX perspective how everything will flow and work.
Given you've got the hardware installed in your table and you're plugging it in for the first time, what needs to be configured and how does that work and look?
When you're ready to broadcast a game, how does connecting the hardware to the frontend work and look?
How about feed security (outside of obvious SSL/TLS but operationally)?
Lots of things I'm brainstorming on right now in terms of the design of the whole package.
I would love to hear what your ideal solutions look like as well as what features they include.
12:07:31.509 -> ets Jun 8 2016 00:22:57
12:07:31.509 ->
12:07:31.509 -> rst:0x1 (POWERON_RESET),boot:0x13 (SPI_FAST_FLASH_BOOT)
12:07:31.509 -> configsip: 0, SPIWP:0xee
12:07:31.509 -> clk_drv:0x00,q_drv:0x00,d_drv:0x00,cs0_drv:0x00,hd_drv:0x00,wp_drv:0x00
12:07:31.509 -> mode: DIO, clock div:1
12:07:31.509 -> load:0x3fff0018,len:4
12:07:31.509 -> load:0x3fff001c,len:1216
12:07:31.509 -> ho 0 tail 12 room 4
12:07:31.509 -> load:0x40078000,len:10944
12:07:31.509 -> load:0x40080400,len:6388
12:07:31.555 -> entry 0x400806b4
12:07:31.877 -> Connecting to WiFi ....192.168.1.69 (nice)
12:07:33.862 -> RRSI: -58
12:07:33.862 -> trying to put the st25r95 in SPI mode
12:07:34.001 -> IDN_Command
12:07:34.001 -> Response Code 0 Data len F
12:07:34.001 -> DEVICE ID: NFC FS2JAST4 ROM CRC: 2ACE
12:07:35.012 -> setting protocol
12:07:35.012 -> 0
12:07:35.012 -> F
12:07:35.060 -> Response Code 0 Data len 0
12:07:35.060 -> PROTOCOL SET-
12:07:35.060 -> 0
12:07:35.060 -> 0
12:07:35.060 -> Response Code 80 Data len 5
12:07:35.570 -> Response Code 87 Data len 0
12:07:36.126 -> Response Code 80 Data len 5
12:07:36.635 -> Response Code 87 Data len 0
12:07:37.196 -> Response Code 80 Data len 5
12:07:37.705 -> Response Code 87 Data len 0
12:07:38.214 -> Response Code 80 Data len 5
12:07:38.766 -> Response Code 87 Data len 0
0x80 EFrameRecvOK = Frame correctly received (additionally see CRC/Parity information)
...
0x87 EFrameWaitTOut = Frame wait time out (no valid reception)
A few different reasons.It is unclear to me why you would need to redesign your antennas.
Yeah, I wish I'd radiused the trace corners a little more. They are slightly radiused, but I think I should have gone more.For the antenna design, i saw somewhere that it's best to avoid right angles in the corners. No idea if it's critical x)
Can you put your antenna kicad files on your git? Might save me some hours :-D
Now i understand what you felt. And it feels GREATI finally had a few minutes this morning during a work call to solder some 0 ohm resistors on to one of the new antenna's matching circuits. This basically amounts to no matching at all on the antenna side, just a coil.
Then I did some testing (green light on the board means power and connected to wifi, blue flashing light on the board means we're reading an RFID tag from the field):
Note, this is with 100% of our home-grown hardware and software now - nothing commercial or from a pre-existing solution used in the making of this video. That's HUGE imo.
As you can see from the video we're getting about 1-1.5" of reception without any antenna side tuning which ain't bad!
I've actually been thinking that leaving the antennas slightly detuned might be a good idea anyway so that we're not accidentally reading cards that aren't supposed to be read at a given position e.g. a player's card slides near another player's antenna - with good tuning we may read it from up to 4-6" and we don't want to. If read distance is limited to 1-2", the chance of false reads I think would be much lower?
I used the PN5180 mainly because it's successfully used in the Pepper C1. I don't understand or know nearly enough theory or have test equipment to stray too far from a known working board and reference designs.Any reason why you changed the transceiver and finally went for the PN5180?
I'd love to know more, especially before I ship this design off to be produced. Will you message in that thread we have going?My own initial design was with this chip, and i finally went for the TRF7970A due to a lot of problems once you start the impedance matching work if applied to deported antennas.
For the multiplexing? I'm following what the C1 did and using differential, if that's what you mean.You went for symetrical or asymetrical design ?
With the non-mux'd setup, ~2v. My design uses the ADG1607 in 5v single supply so signal range vdd-vss (0-~5.5v)What is the voltage range of the analog signal (because your mux is quite sensitive to that from what i see in the datasheet).
Awesome! Range looks great, did you tune? What mux are you using?Now i understand what you felt. And it feels GREAT
this ended up just being a soldering mistake on my part. I can still read tags with a 2m cabled antenna, but the read range is reduced some.One thing I've noticed is that with an antenna cable too long (~2 meters), I'm no longer able to read tags. Have you tried longer cables yet? I'm sure it's a matching issue for me.
one version uses (as originally planned) a couple of ADG1607s to switch the 16 antennas, the other uses 4x NX3L4051 analog switches to do the same.What did you change exactly between the two versions?
I didn't really consider cameras within the scope of my project, preferring to leave that up to the user, mostly because there are plenty of cheap and easy commercial options to do that part and they're basically all supported by whatever broadcast software the user chooses, too. We'll just provide the typical overlay (board, hole cards, odds, positions, player names, etc.), the rest is the easy partAlso, i was wondering, did you think already about the camera system? I try to find a cheap, wireless, ideally dual camera system but it’s hard to find.