Final Design (1 Viewer)

I still warn you you 're going to have dirty stack issues with the frac and the $1
For a cheaper frac / ND chip think of that (stolen of course, but immitation is the biggest form of flattery)
B mold frac.png
 
Or here is a thought. All the small edge spots in the entire set are completely different than any White Sox color.
 
Otherwise nice, but why did you have to do that to the $5s and the $100s? No contrast at all there anymore :rolleyes:
 
I changed black from lavender to dayglo pink (I know I know, but lavender and black is Colorado Rockies colors). Simplified the 25 cent.
 
Big fan of this last design.
Looking to upgrade from 500 to 750

blue 150
white 250
red 200
green 100
black 50
 
Looking to upgrade from 500 to 750

blue 150
white 250
red 200
green 100
black 50
I strongly recommend more $5s. Something like this would be a better 750 chip breakdown for my personal use.
  • 100 (8-12 per player is plenty of fracs for a single table). Non-denom is the way to go if your game might go smaller (i.e., dimes or $0.20s), or just make them quarters. $0.50 is too close to a $1 to be useful.
  • 200 (a barrel per player is very generous, if the $1 is a workhorse a smaller game)
  • 350
  • 80
  • 20
60/40 also works well for the top denominations for a bit more range, instead of 80/20.

I would likely grab n=10 more of each denom for spares, making the set 800 chips total.
 
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I would strongly recommend more $5s. Something like this would be a better 750 chip breakdown for my personal use.
  • 100 (8 per player is plenty of fracs for a single table). Non-denom is the way to go, or just make them quarters. $0.50 is too close to a $1 to be useful.
  • 200 (a barrel per player is very generous, if the $1 is a workhorse a smaller game)
  • 350
  • 80
  • 20
60/40 also works well for the top denominations for a bit more range, instead of 80/20.

I would likely grab n=10 more of each denom for spares, making the set 800 chips total.
Interesting you just replied with these numbers, because I was restructuring the different counts and came out with a similar number.
100
300
200
100
50
 
I strongly recommend more $5s. Something like this would be a better 750 chip breakdown for my personal use.
  • 100 (8-12 per player is plenty of fracs for a single table). Non-denom is the way to go if your game might go smaller (i.e., dimes or $0.20s), or just make them quarters. $0.50 is too close to a $1 to be useful.
  • 200 (a barrel per player is very generous, if the $1 is a workhorse a smaller game)
  • 350
  • 80
  • 20
60/40 also works well for the top denominations for a bit more range, instead of 80/20.

I would likely grab n=10 more of each denom for spares, making the set 800 chips total.
Broke it down to...
100
200
300
100
50

all the different variations are similar in price, so I went with your suggestion and got more reds.
 
The blue chip in your first post is by far the best chip youve mocked up, it’s really nice. You need to find a way to incorporate that into your set.
 
I’ve been playing with the blue all day. The rest of the chips are finalized.

Here are the options. I’m trying to keep the blue simple to not clash with the white.

EAF10AF2-5C0A-4373-974D-72090D1B4810.png
CE67FBBF-5677-473C-A32E-0540319A214E.png
6CCD65F3-6123-47B0-99A3-3706AD0BE328.png
ED38E694-1123-478C-A53D-9CD39F065DCE.png
 
The reason for the $10 blue is that light blue chip is that light blue was a major color in the team’s late past. It was difficult to incorporate it in other chip colors.

the blue is definitely going to get more use than the green or black.

If the blue is going to be in use more make it a $20 and scrap the green chip.
 
If the blue is going to be in use more make it a $20 and scrap the green chip.
It will most like be in play a lot if the game is 25c/50c games, though I can possible see some higher limit play that put the green into action.
 
I changed the retro red to red on the blue. Seems a little more muted, which I prefer.
96AE0AB1-A9BF-49F0-AC36-8AED3E8C5986.png
 
Literally can’t make up my mind.

I like the 3v12 on the blue but can’t figure out which edge spot center, white, light blue, or retro red, or red.

I see the advantages of each.

Touch decision.

CBF785C0-CDC9-4A05-8832-7DD64AAB76AA.png
DF299099-1E1A-4A6C-AE76-A05FB59452FF.png
82C7BFEC-542D-464D-A1BC-AA0D836B5047.png
8C058529-98C2-433B-A16E-20526DE3AB04.png
 
Ok.

this will be my final design and will be submitted to CPC by tomorrow.

I trust everyone on this thread to critique and give suggestions. Thank you for allowing me to mentally masturbate for the past week on this.

My reasoning for going with this final design. Initially I was going to have the blue 3v12 with a retro red or bright white though the more I looked at it, I felt that those color edge spots would give it a very aggressive look, which I am against for the 25cent blue piece, especially with the simpler white $1 chip.

I then played with the 3v12 with only 2 colors in it, light blue and dark blue. I liked it, but I felt that it went away from the 4 edge spot styles in the white and red, in addition to only have 2 total colors where the rest of the colors have a minimum of 3.

my final conclusion was to keep the 4 edge spot style with the 4v12 but keep only 2 colors, light blue and dark blue. It keeps the color progression simple from blue to white chip but also gives enough contrast with the center light blue spots. I felt that either retro red or bright white would be too similar compared to the red $5 chip (retro blue & bright white). My goal was to have each chip with its own unique edge spots and not repeat colors. Light blue/dark blue for the 4v12 keeps this pattern and the only edge spot color that gets repeated is the retro blue in the red and green, which I’m ok with because of how drastically different the red and green are.

Sorry for the novel.

3CFD752F-E64C-419C-B549-C87812A6C7C6.png
 
After a light bulb moment working on the chip builder, and some advice from a PCF member (thanks @Coyote), the decision has been made and my final design has been submitted to CPC.

The final design is......



















34DD0DD7-D4BD-4804-BF3E-7B1EA5112983.jpeg
 

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