Shaggy
Full House
I completely understand your stacking strategy. Like Belleville washer (springs). Seems like a good strategy.
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Flattening Warped Chips (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ski_ex5
- Start date
I know you got it but here's my half-'essed' attempt to show the stack anyway... If all 'bounties' are turned up, they stack like bricks... if they are all alternated, that's as bad as it gets... If I pinch one side, that what it happens... I clamped the chips alternating 'bounties'...
Mr. Cheese
Full House
Great idea Ski! Thanks for sharing! I've got a couple warped hot stamped chips I may have to try this on.
mtl mile end
Flush
You might want to try the fridge/freezer after they have cooled to RT, and still under pressure, just to make sure that they're really cooled down and locked into position. I would definitely try that before higher (and potentially dangerous) temps.
For those looking for ceramic blanks, less than $20/rack shipped on eBay, BIN:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Ceramic-Sublimate-able-Printable-Poker-Chips-Item-89-0006-/191157151994
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Ceramic-Sublimate-able-Printable-Poker-Chips-Item-89-0006-/191157151994
Hey Ski! I have always used a one pressure point clamp to bake the chips... However, since I need to go way up in temp for the ceramics and the clamps I have are plastic, I will have to look for alternatives... The clamp you used seems pretty good... Did you have any issues dealing with two pressure points for the two stacks you clamped? Was it hard to keep the slabs parallel? I notice this particular clamp is designed to work in angles also... I am assuming since the clamp is wood and metal I could bump the temp up without a problem right? Thanks mate!!
Paulo-
*Btw, I went up to 250F for the ceramics and they did get better... Maybe 60% there... I want to try a little higher temp...
Paulo-
*Btw, I went up to 250F for the ceramics and they did get better... Maybe 60% there... I want to try a little higher temp...
OP
OP
I had no problem at all keeping the two halves of the wood clamp parallel with two barrels of ceramic sandwiched chip in-between the screws. The screws are FAR better to work with than ratchet type clamps. Once, I tried doing four barrels of chips (inside and outside the screws), but that was a disaster - you just can't get everything even!
Well, yeah, until you hit the autoignition temperature of the wood and it begins to char and burn! I think wood begins to burn somewhere above 400F, but you need to check me on that. I'd be worried long before 400F, though, because you also have to think about the point where any water left in the wood begins to boil off (212F), and also the melting point and autoignition point of the clear stain/paint/varnish finish on the wood. I don't know exactly what the coating is on my clamp, so I sure don't know the melting or autoignition points!
The clamp isn't that expensive, so you could afford to ruin one in an experiment, but I'd take the necessary safety precautions. I'd have a good fire extinguisher ready, and I would absolutely not take my eyes off everything as it cooks.
For the cost of an attic, an automobile and a meat thermometer you could buy new chips
OP
OP
For the cost of an attic, an automobile and a meat thermometer you could buy new chips
Best sales pitch I've ever heard. Hard to argue with that logic!
Poker Zombie
Royal Flush
Autoignition point of wood depends on multiple factors, including the thickness of the wood, density, moisture content, and amount of time exposed to the heat. For that wooden clamp, I would guess it is oak or maple. At 350[SUP]o[/SUP] F (180[SUP]o[/SUP] C) you can expect the oak to burn in 20 minutes or so, if it were just wood. The metal screws will also play a factor, as where they contact the wood they will be heated by the air in the oven (convection) as well as by the heat carried by the screw (conduction) greatly diminishing the time to combustion. Though like ski said, the finish would also off-gas, and that could lead to toxic fumes.
For the cost of an attic, an automobile and a meat thermometer you could buy new chips
I just may get in my automobile grab my thermometer, and hide out in your attic, until the FDL chips are ready to roll. I need the thermometer to check my core temperature... an attic, in Maine, in the winter would get mighty cold... (things I'll do for beautiful chips)
WARNING!! The temps discussed in my post are for CERAMIC chips!! For clay chips temps, please stick to Ski's original suggestion and other's throughout the thread!
Thanks Ski! I'll try to find that clamp today... Would probably only do two barrels at a time as well, although they are 44mm (hope they can fit)...
In regards to combustion, I am planning on increasing temp up only to 275, 'maybe' up to 300... I'll certainly keep an eye for any issues with both the chips and the clamp...
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Thanks PZ... It makes total sense... I'll leave windows open for the possible fumes... I won't go crazy on temps as 250 almost did the job (although it was probably the limit for the plastic material of the old clamp i have)...
Thanks Ski! I'll try to find that clamp today... Would probably only do two barrels at a time as well, although they are 44mm (hope they can fit)...
In regards to combustion, I am planning on increasing temp up only to 275, 'maybe' up to 300... I'll certainly keep an eye for any issues with both the chips and the clamp...
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Thanks PZ... It makes total sense... I'll leave windows open for the possible fumes... I won't go crazy on temps as 250 almost did the job (although it was probably the limit for the plastic material of the old clamp i have)...
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OP
OP
I'VE GOT DIBS on any and all of Paulo's chips that survive the pending explosion in the kitchen! 
Kidding aside, one other thing about the high temps... I have no clue at what point the print on the ceramic chips will melt. I bet David S or Jim B might have a clue, though. Alternately, if you have some old unwanted ceramics, you could experiment first.
Best of luck, and please be careful!
Kidding aside, one other thing about the high temps... I have no clue at what point the print on the ceramic chips will melt. I bet David S or Jim B might have a clue, though. Alternately, if you have some old unwanted ceramics, you could experiment first.
Best of luck, and please be careful!
Hahahaha... Don't know about explosion man but a big melting mess, likely... Yeah, BG's suggestion was to torch one of those things to see how quickly they would melt/burn (or not!)
Speaking of dibs, I don't remember, do you have a tourney set of Royal Yaks?
Speaking of dibs, I don't remember, do you have a tourney set of Royal Yaks?
I'VE GOT DIBS on any and all of Paulo's chips that survive the pending explosion in the kitchen!
Kidding aside, one other thing about the high temps... I have no clue at what point the print on the ceramic chips will melt. I bet David S or Jim B might have a clue, though. Alternately, if you have some old unwanted ceramics, you could experiment first.
Best of luck, and please be careful!
I'VE GOT DIBS on any and all of Paulo's chips that survive the pending explosion in the kitchen!
Kidding aside, one other thing about the high temps... I have no clue at what point the print on the ceramic chips will melt. I bet David S or Jim B might have a clue, though. Alternately, if you have some old unwanted ceramics, you could experiment first.
Best of luck, and please be careful!
FYI - Ive put ceramics in an oven at 500 degrees and nothing happens.
atomiktoaster
Full House
...why?
I am aware. I posted as I was surprised someone had any results at 250 degrees.
Don't forget that ceramic chips are not 'fired' though. I think your temps relate to fired ceramic.
I was experimenting as one of the overseas ceramic producers makes a lot of other products from the same material including cookware. I expected them to melt so I threw a couple of chips in the oven once
Anyway, it didn't affect the printing either.
Caveat - I accept no responsibility for the results of other people's experiments
Yeah David, I have a rack of 44mm that came 'convex'... No results until I got to 250, then they got a lot better but not totally flat... That's why I will try keeping up in temp a bit...
Paulo-
Paulo-
Wonder what made them convex in the first place?
links_slayer
4 of a Kind
I was going to ask the same question. Maybe just a defective batch of blanks?
That is exactly right... I had a rack of custom 44s made and they all came convex... Did not want to go back and replace them as it would be a p-i-t-a... They are bounties so I am not that worried... It's just the challenge of fixing them... lss, bad batch of blanks is my guess...
Yeah, but 'ceramic' chips are not made of true ceramic material (like tile, pottery, etc.). They are just a version of high-temp plastic with bonded polymers for added strength.
TenPercenter baked a bunch of chips in a muffin pan a long time ago at ever-increasing temperatures as part of an evil chip experiment (full story on bluescreen). The only chips that did not deform were 'ceramic' chipco's -- although the print quality did eventually begin to boil off and fade.
OP
OP
I wasn't worried about the chips themselves, I was worried he'd melt the paint.
RainmanTrail
Straight Flush
Digging up old threads here... haha
I'm curious if anyone has tried sitting in a sauna with their clamped chips instead of trying to use an oven at low temps. There were several posts I've read from other threads and at the old blue wall where people were using ovens at 170F since that was the lowest setting their ovens would go. But here, people are recommending much lower temps between 120F and 150F. I'm thinking that sitting in a sauna with my chips might do the trick. Plus, you have the added benefit of keeping an eye on them throughout the process and could adjust your clamp accordingly.
I have a few TRKs that I'd like to flatten out, and am concerned that they could me more susceptible to damage from higher temps than Paulsons.
First I just need to find me some ceramic blanks and a proper chip clamp.
I'm curious if anyone has tried sitting in a sauna with their clamped chips instead of trying to use an oven at low temps. There were several posts I've read from other threads and at the old blue wall where people were using ovens at 170F since that was the lowest setting their ovens would go. But here, people are recommending much lower temps between 120F and 150F. I'm thinking that sitting in a sauna with my chips might do the trick. Plus, you have the added benefit of keeping an eye on them throughout the process and could adjust your clamp accordingly.
I have a few TRKs that I'd like to flatten out, and am concerned that they could me more susceptible to damage from higher temps than Paulsons.
First I just need to find me some ceramic blanks and a proper chip clamp.
looking for some 40mm ceramic blanks to straighten a few chips. Anyone?
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