Hello From CA! (1 Viewer)

[FreeBop59]

Hello PCF Members,

I'm a California guy that found this forum through Google searches: I've been considering upgrading my plain old dice chips to something nicer, and the threads that I've been reading about ceramic chips (like the BR Pro offerings) and clay chips (like Paulsons) have been very helpful so far

I want to have a versatile cash game set that can span $0.25-$0.50 to $1-$2 and am also enjoying some threads on mapping out chip sets:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ut-a-cash-game-chip-set-5c-10c-to-5-10.30897/

Thank you for a very informative website and I hope to learn more soon!

 

[MrBoosh]

Hello and welcome to PCF! There are lots of great options out there. Your budget could help you narrow it down though. Clay Paulsons could cost a bit more than ceramics or anything else. Just make sure you get plenty of samples before deciding on anything.

 

[wickedwonka121]

Welcome. Get samples. Seeing and feeling the chips in person is important to getting something you will keep and use for a long time. Good luck!

 

[Fran]

Welcome !

 

[toothpic]

Welcome! I build most of my sets the same way making them able to handle a 0.25/0.50 game up to a 2/5 game. It mostly leads to larger sized sets of around 1000 chips.

For the smaller game usually I run a size that's bigger than needed at 700 chips. The 3rd rack of 5s is optional.

100 - 0.25
200 - 1
300 - 5
80 - 25
20 - 100

For my 1-2 games I run
100 - 1
400 - 5
200 - 25
100 - 100

You can add a barrel of 500s to make it comfortable if your game plays a bit bigger.

Cheers!

 

[allforcharity]

Hello and welcome!

An 800 chip set properly balanced can cover your range of stakes.

 

[TheRealTeddyKGB]

Welcome from Mountain View!!

 

[KHarp1]

You could probably cover yourself with a 600 chip set using the following break down:

120 .25
200 $1
200 $5
60 $25
20 $100

This puts over $4700 in play. Depending on your bank needs you could adjust your $25/$100 ratio, or, add $500's if your game plays at that level. With an 8 player game this breakdown is about $600 per person, average.

This would be a good start for many, and, you can always add on in the future.

Welcome!

 

[shadowler]

Welcome!

Having played a good amount of home games at the .25/.25 and .25/50 with a max $100 initial buy-in. I'm on the boat where a rack of fracs is plenty for 9 players. My $1 and $5 are the workhorses. Everyone in my group likes to have at least two barrels in front of them so they have something to fiddle with while waiting between hands.

I like @toothpic's breakdown above and have something similar. For me, I found that having 4 denominations on the table, whatever the stakes might be, makes it easier for everyone. So there are nights where I don't even have any green $25s in play, just make change with black $100s from whomever is the big stack. Like @KHarp1 said, you can always add on in the future so don't feel like you need to ace it the first time.

 

[Just1Better]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

 

[Phish1321]

Hello and welcome

 

[FreeBop59]

Welcome! I build most of my sets the same way making them able to handle a 0.25/0.50 game up to a 2/5 game. It mostly leads to larger sized sets of around 1000 chips.

For the smaller game usually I run a size that's bigger than needed at 700 chips. The 3rd rack of 5s is optional.

100 - 0.25
200 - 1
300 - 5
80 - 25
20 - 100

For my 1-2 games I run
100 - 1
400 - 5
200 - 25
100 - 100

You can add a barrel of 500s to make it comfortable if your game plays a bit bigger.

Cheers!

Hello and welcome!

An 800 chip set properly balanced can cover your range of stakes.

You could probably cover yourself with a 600 chip set using the following break down:

120 .25
200 $1
200 $5
60 $25
20 $100

This puts over $4700 in play. Depending on your bank needs you could adjust your $25/$100 ratio, or, add $500's if your game plays at that level. With an 8 player game this breakdown is about $600 per person, average.

This would be a good start for many, and, you can always add on in the future.

Welcome!

Welcome!

Having played a good amount of home games at the .25/.25 and .25/50 with a max $100 initial buy-in. I'm on the boat where a rack of fracs is plenty for 9 players. My $1 and $5 are the workhorses. Everyone in my group likes to have at least two barrels in front of them so they have something to fiddle with while waiting between hands.

I like @toothpic's breakdown above and have something similar. For me, I found that having 4 denominations on the table, whatever the stakes might be, makes it easier for everyone. So there are nights where I don't even have any green $25s in play, just make change with black $100s from whomever is the big stack. Like @KHarp1 said, you can always add on in the future so don't feel like you need to ace it the first time.

Thank you all for the input

After considering the breakdowns, knowing that at least one of my games has players more comfortable with fracs, and stretching the overall chip count, what do you think about

400 - $1
400 - $5
400 - $25
100 - $100
(Option: 20 - $500 if a $1/$2 game basically turned into $2/$5)

I was thinking the $25 chips would be the workhorse throughout the $0.25/$0.50 and $2/$5 range: they would be the fracs in the 0.25/0.50 & .50/1 games and also share the load in the 1/2 and 2/5 games. Most of time, I and the other players buy in for 100 BB (maybe 1 or 2 would be 200 BB). I would estimate about half of the players in my games would have at least one rebuy during the session. Budgetwise, I'm willing to stretch for an arrangement that works across these situations.

 

[allforcharity]

Bad idea. Use real denoms instead of converting. If you must have lots of chips, consider this 1000 set:

100x 0.25
200x 1
400x 5
200x 25
100x 100

 

[shadowler]

Did you mention how many total players you have? I assumed this was a full ring but maybe not. Even if its two tables, i think the breakdown can be adjusted better, especially 400 $25's.

I don't like subbing the $25 chip as a frac, get another NCV chip or solid to do that instead.

 

[FreeBop59]

Bad idea. Use real denoms instead of converting. If you must have lots of chips, consider this 1000 set:

100x 0.25
200x 1
400x 5
200x 25
100x 100

I can see how this could work for .50/1 through 2/5: could you help me with an example for .25/.50?

(I and others in a 6 handed or full ring table are used to having one barrel of fracs)

 

[FreeBop59]

Did you mention how many total players you have? I assumed this was a full ring but maybe not. Even if its two tables, i think the breakdown can be adjusted better, especially 400 $25's.

I don't like subbing the $25 chip as a frac, get another NCV chip or solid to do that instead.

Usually it's full ring, but sometimes it's 5 or 6 handed: what would you suggest for a breakdown with solids/NCVs as the fracs?

 

[Tonysquander]

Welcome to PCF!

 

[Northern Paladin]

Hello and welcome to PCF!

 

[KHarp1]

It might be better if you tell us more about your game, how many players on average, how much money you anticipate being in play, etc. Unless you're running two tables your breakdown is way off. Even in a .25/.50 game the $5 will be the work horse, you shouldn't need more than 200 $1's. 400 $25 chips is also way more than you'll need. Typically those will be used for rebuys with change being made at the table.

I'm also in agreement that the $25 chip should not be used as the .25 chip.

 

[allforcharity]

I can see how this could work for .50/1 through 2/5: could you help me with an example for .25/.50?

(I and others in a 6 handed or full ring table are used to having one barrel of fracs)

"Standard" recommendation for 1 cash table of 10 players is a tightly efficient 600-chip set with the following breakdown:

100x SB denom to cover your blind needs
200x each of the next two denoms which are your workhorses (at 4-5× successive value)
100x your high denom to store value and cover your bank needs (or 80x and 20x your next 2 denoms, respectively)

You may modify this however you wish. If you can afford it, get extra racks. However, chips can get expensive and too much of one denom can get unwieldy when estimating stacks and counting big pots and all-ins.

 

[FreeBop59]

It might be better if you tell us more about your game, how many players on average, how much money you anticipate being in play, etc. Unless you're running two tables your breakdown is way off. Even in a .25/.50 game the $5 will be the work horse, you shouldn't need more than 200 $1's. 400 $25 chips is also way more than you'll need. Typically those will be used for rebuys with change being made at the table.

I'm also in agreement that the $25 chip should not be used as the .25 chip.

In the .25/.50 game, it's usually 6 handed (occasionally 8 or 9 handed) with everyone starting at 100 BB. During play, I'd say half the table will rebuy/add-on at least once for 100. If the big stack is around 200 BB, then the rebuys/add-ons can match the big stack.

In the 1/1 and 1/2 games, it's usually 7 or 8 handed with mostly 100 BB stacks and a couple of players starting with 150-200 BB. The rebuy/add-on action is similar to the .25/.50 game.

 

[FreeBop59]

Hello and welcome to PCF! There are lots of great options out there. Your budget could help you narrow it down though. Clay Paulsons could cost a bit more than ceramics or anything else. Just make sure you get plenty of samples before deciding on anything.

Welcome. Get samples. Seeing and feeling the chips in person is important to getting something you will keep and use for a long time. Good luck!

Thank you for the samples recommendations: I have some CC (Apache Dunes), Paulson (Jumers), and Apache's "Super Sample" sets on the way so I can see and feel some options