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My Man Cave Remodel (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tommy
- Start date
OP
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I haven't given up on the Halo LEDs yet. I contacted Cooper (makers of Halo) about the buzzing and they said to use a Lutron Maestro ELV (electronic low voltage) dimmer instead of the CL model that is made for CFLs and LEDs. Go figure. These ELV dimmers are 3 times the price. I ordered one from Amazon to test.
Sent from my Galaxy S4
Sent from my Galaxy S4
OP
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The Maestro EVL dimmer did reduce a noticeable hum down to be almost not noticeable. But it's not worth the cost at $100 each. So I will stick with the $30 Maestro CL dimmers and the CREE LED BR30 bulbs that cost $65 for 4 vs $160 for the HALOs.
Was working on setting up the rear R and L surround speaker mounting locations.
Will be using this mount for those...
Was working on setting up the rear R and L surround speaker mounting locations.
Will be using this mount for those...
Regarding your TV room setup... I'd consider planning to move your couch closer to the TV. There's really no reason to have the COuch so far back. Snug stuff in a bit, leaves more room for walking behind and around the furniture. It also affects the audio surround placement. Moving couches too far back is one of those mistakes most people make. another is wall mounting the tv too high on the wall.. forcing you to tilt up to see it. it should be at eye level from the seated position. im sure you probably knew this stuff already?
Given the furniture show, I'd arrange the left chair flush with the wall behind it, moving the couch up so they are squared, move the right chair up to the couch's right armrest. Foot Traffic can move behind and to the right of the furniture group.
otherwise, the safe looks amazing! Cmt wait to see the finished product!
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Your suggestion is spot on. After I measured the distance between the couch and tv yesterday, I had 12 1/2 feet.. I move it up a bit and it's 9 1/2 feet. I do have a steel column right behind the couch (one of three that supports the steel I beam) which will get boxed out and dry-walled to just fit a switch, receptacle, and Aux rear speaker jacks.
I ran a 2nd set of speaker wire to the column behind the couch in case the placement of where I am putting the rear surrounds now doesn't work out. I am not an A/V guru but I do research the stuff and browse some A/V forums. I'm am always open to suggestions and tips.
Rears will be mounted at about 6'3". The sides are 4' from the couch.
I had a small Polk RM95 series 5.1 "in a box" setup but now I have a bigger room so I am upgrading the speakers.
The TV is a Sony 52" LCD that I bought in 2008. If it dies, I will get a 60" Samsung. (fingers crossed. LOL)
My receiver is a Denon AVR-1913. I got that in late 2012.
The front speakers are going to be the Polk TSi400.
The center is the Polk CS20
Side and Rear I am still undecided.
My Sub is a Mirage 8" but I will probably upgrade that too.
I ran in-wall rated 14/2 speaker wire to all the locations. The A/V stand is 60" wide and 28" high. The center ch speaker will site on top of that and the TV will be mounted on the wall just above it.
I just got done insulating some of the ceiling tonight. About half way done. Mon and Tues we will be putting the rest of the drywall up on the ceiling and maybe get to the walls in the TV and Poker rooms.
I ran a 2nd set of speaker wire to the column behind the couch in case the placement of where I am putting the rear surrounds now doesn't work out. I am not an A/V guru but I do research the stuff and browse some A/V forums. I'm am always open to suggestions and tips.
Rears will be mounted at about 6'3". The sides are 4' from the couch.
I had a small Polk RM95 series 5.1 "in a box" setup but now I have a bigger room so I am upgrading the speakers.
The TV is a Sony 52" LCD that I bought in 2008. If it dies, I will get a 60" Samsung. (fingers crossed. LOL)
My receiver is a Denon AVR-1913. I got that in late 2012.
The front speakers are going to be the Polk TSi400.
The center is the Polk CS20
Side and Rear I am still undecided.
My Sub is a Mirage 8" but I will probably upgrade that too.
I ran in-wall rated 14/2 speaker wire to all the locations. The A/V stand is 60" wide and 28" high. The center ch speaker will site on top of that and the TV will be mounted on the wall just above it.
I just got done insulating some of the ceiling tonight. About half way done. Mon and Tues we will be putting the rest of the drywall up on the ceiling and maybe get to the walls in the TV and Poker rooms.
I like Polk speakers. For my basement theater I went with Paradigm speakers. A bit pricey, but they rock.
From a purely social aspect, I'd recommend moving the seating closer together. When u sit down to hang out, you don't want large gaps between seats. And people feel awkward sitting next to each other, unless its your sig other.
granted, I know u have the seating and tv centered in the space, but I might at least consider shifting the entire seating group to the left a bit. I think the couch and left chair should almost be touching, but I'm only going off the scale in your mock up floor plans. An added benefit is they could share the end table, and any coffee table you might use. If you look at seating arrangements in a furniture store, this is how they are ALL set up... There's a reason for that.
From a purely social aspect, I'd recommend moving the seating closer together. When u sit down to hang out, you don't want large gaps between seats. And people feel awkward sitting next to each other, unless its your sig other.
granted, I know u have the seating and tv centered in the space, but I might at least consider shifting the entire seating group to the left a bit. I think the couch and left chair should almost be touching, but I'm only going off the scale in your mock up floor plans. An added benefit is they could share the end table, and any coffee table you might use. If you look at seating arrangements in a furniture store, this is how they are ALL set up... There's a reason for that.
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We may get new furniture for the basement. The couch we have now had one of the those built in ottomans on the one side and it doesn't work well in the space. Plus all the basement furniture was pretty old but in decent shape. The hunting club that a guy at work belongs to said they would buy it for the cabin so I may already have it sold. 
Got 90% of the insulation done today. I ran out of R-19 that I was using for the ceiling, so I had to make a run to Lowes. I picked up one package of Roxul Safe and Sound for around the furnace while I was there. I just wanted to try the product. Unfortunately they don't carry the wider Roxul for steel studs so I stacked it the other way in the bays that were 16 OC.
Some pics....
The two bays with no fiberglass behind the drywall lift is where the TV is going. I spray foamed the perimeter of each bay to make it air tight. The bay with the A/V and network cables is only going to get fiberglass 3/4 of the way down. I don't want to have fiberglass in the way when I wire the backside of the Legrand HT 1000. I still have to mount two boxes for behind the TV too. One bay is getting the power bridge and the other bay just a box for the A/V cables to exit.
I still have to re-install the original return air vent in one of the bays where the Roxul is going.
I hate working with fiberglass!!!
Tomorrow the ceiling drywall is going up.
Got 90% of the insulation done today. I ran out of R-19 that I was using for the ceiling, so I had to make a run to Lowes. I picked up one package of Roxul Safe and Sound for around the furnace while I was there. I just wanted to try the product. Unfortunately they don't carry the wider Roxul for steel studs so I stacked it the other way in the bays that were 16 OC.
Some pics....
The two bays with no fiberglass behind the drywall lift is where the TV is going. I spray foamed the perimeter of each bay to make it air tight. The bay with the A/V and network cables is only going to get fiberglass 3/4 of the way down. I don't want to have fiberglass in the way when I wire the backside of the Legrand HT 1000. I still have to mount two boxes for behind the TV too. One bay is getting the power bridge and the other bay just a box for the A/V cables to exit.
I still have to re-install the original return air vent in one of the bays where the Roxul is going.
I hate working with fiberglass!!!
Tomorrow the ceiling drywall is going up.
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Added in some more rows of furring strip. A little more that usual, (1ft spacing), but the living room and front entry way is directly above the TV room so a little added extra protection against cracks.
The duct will be boxed in once the drywall on both side is up.
The duct will be boxed in once the drywall on both side is up.
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Oops!
Last night while I was cleaning up, I saw a screw that wasn't in all the way so I grabbed my screw gun and using the great strength that I have, pushed the screw and screw gun right through the drywall. LOL. Now I know why the screw wasn't in all the way. No furring strip there. Around the lights gets tricky with furring strips so it wasn't spaced like the rest if them. Forgot to mark that sheet for them. That's what you get.
Last night while I was cleaning up, I saw a screw that wasn't in all the way so I grabbed my screw gun and using the great strength that I have, pushed the screw and screw gun right through the drywall. LOL. Now I know why the screw wasn't in all the way. No furring strip there. Around the lights gets tricky with furring strips so it wasn't spaced like the rest if them. Forgot to mark that sheet for them. That's what you get.
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Got the TV power bridge finished. Installed the wall mount bracket and hung the TV up to get a good spot for the box with no obstructions to it.
To get the measurement for the bracket I had to factor in a few things.
1) Underlayment, 7/16" OSB, padding and rug adds approx 1 1/2" to the floor.
2) The A/V cabinet is 28 1/4" high.
3) The center channel speaker that will sit on top of the A/V cabinet is 7 3/8" high
4) I gave myself 4" of play between the the bottom of the TV and the center channel speaker.
5) I measured the bracket on the back of the TV from where it seats on the top rail of wall bracket to the bottom of the TV.
Insulation will stop at the bottom conduit. The piece of conduit is for fishing the HDMI and Cat 6.
Will be using an old work bracket and a brush plate after the drywall is up.
I also added two pieces of wood to the metal bracket that will hold the Legrand HT 1000. Ripped some 1 x 1 pieces on the table saw. Put some PL-400 on it, clamped it and let it dry overnight. I added screws on each side through the studs the next day for the hell of it but I know the PL-400 will hold that together forever without them. I feel I will have better grab for the screws this way.
To get the measurement for the bracket I had to factor in a few things.
1) Underlayment, 7/16" OSB, padding and rug adds approx 1 1/2" to the floor.
2) The A/V cabinet is 28 1/4" high.
3) The center channel speaker that will sit on top of the A/V cabinet is 7 3/8" high
4) I gave myself 4" of play between the the bottom of the TV and the center channel speaker.
5) I measured the bracket on the back of the TV from where it seats on the top rail of wall bracket to the bottom of the TV.
Insulation will stop at the bottom conduit. The piece of conduit is for fishing the HDMI and Cat 6.
Will be using an old work bracket and a brush plate after the drywall is up.
I also added two pieces of wood to the metal bracket that will hold the Legrand HT 1000. Ripped some 1 x 1 pieces on the table saw. Put some PL-400 on it, clamped it and let it dry overnight. I added screws on each side through the studs the next day for the hell of it but I know the PL-400 will hold that together forever without them. I feel I will have better grab for the screws this way.
JFCJ
Full House
Great thread. Fortunately, I just had to prepare and paint the walls and hang a bracket for the flat screen.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product, AND more importantly, action poker games shots.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product, AND more importantly, action poker games shots.
Mr. Cheese
Full House
When this is all done you'll have to host the 1st annual PCF poker tourney for us all 
. Hope you have enough room for us all to crash there lol
. Hope you have enough room for us all to crash there lol
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Thanks. Definitely!
When this is all done you'll have to host the 1st annual PCF poker tourney for us all
Plenty of room. We have 2 spare rooms and 3 air beds.
All the drywall should be done by Tues. I had 80 sheets. We are down to about 30.
::::::::Strongly suggest adding bracing between the studs now that the walls are opened up. I placed 2x10s one on top of another across a couple of the studs I knew I'd be mounting my TVs to. That made installation 100x easier as a screwing platform, so it wasnt crucial to "hit" a stud. I did this for many items I knew we're going in, wall-mount speaker locations, TV mounts, etc... Super easy with the walls not in... Totally worth the little effort.
The above shows a surround speaker mount location in my workout room, but for larger items, I went across two stud openings.
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Ah...Thank You! I will do that tonight. I have some 2 x 8s in the garage that I can use. Also, that wood crate in the background is what my poker table shipped in. I may use some of that.
Trust me, you will thank yourself when you're installing your tvs later. I even had a pedestal sink that required bracing, so I did that before hand. Pre-brace ANYthing that could possibly go in... Seconds to do when there's no drywall, and having to hit studs dead on sucks when installing speakers. So much nicer to be able to be able to adjust side to side a foot here or there...
had I known about my neon sign collection, I'd have braced for those too, and added outlets behind them... Retrofitting crap sucks.
This isn't exactly bracing for TVs, but the premise was the same (technique wise).
had I known about my neon sign collection, I'd have braced for those too, and added outlets behind them... Retrofitting crap sucks.
This isn't exactly bracing for TVs, but the premise was the same (technique wise).
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Some pics from yesterday and today. We got a decent amount of work done. I haven't re-installed the return air vent yet so around the furnace isn't done yet. The wall on the stairs and the wall at the bottom of the steps will be done last.
The dry wall around the left window still needs to be trimmed. Just letting the glue set up so we don't break the small piece when cutting it.
The joint fell right where I had the power bridge receptacle and low voltage feed through plate for behind the TV. We are going to temporarily remove the low voltage box we already cut in and cut an old work box for the PB receptacle after the joint is taped and spackled. (Test fitting the Legrand HT1000 too.)
Got to rough in the plumbing and do some blocking for the wet bar area before that can get rocked.
The dry wall around the left window still needs to be trimmed. Just letting the glue set up so we don't break the small piece when cutting it.
The joint fell right where I had the power bridge receptacle and low voltage feed through plate for behind the TV. We are going to temporarily remove the low voltage box we already cut in and cut an old work box for the PB receptacle after the joint is taped and spackled. (Test fitting the Legrand HT1000 too.)
Got to rough in the plumbing and do some blocking for the wet bar area before that can get rocked.
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Still have to get the return air duct re-installed so still no drywall on the furnace wall. 
Once that is done, we can finish the drywall on that wall. Then we can start building the soffit around the duct work and box in the column.
We got a lot of the taping and spackle is done. The butt joints still need another coat to feather them out. Other areas need a seconds coat too.
The old carpet on the stairs still needs to be ripped out. The corners where the ceiling meets the stairwell walls will be done after we get the plywood down the stairs.
Once that is done, we can finish the drywall on that wall. Then we can start building the soffit around the duct work and box in the column. We got a lot of the taping and spackle is done. The butt joints still need another coat to feather them out. Other areas need a seconds coat too.
The old carpet on the stairs still needs to be ripped out. The corners where the ceiling meets the stairwell walls will be done after we get the plywood down the stairs.
ReeseChip
Pair
Rocking and rolling! Coming together nicely Tommy since my last visit. You must be happy you're almost there haha
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Thanks. Most of the basement work gets done on Mondays and Tuesdays. Not much to report since last week.
Waiting for this piece of duct work to come in on Monday so I can get the return air duct re-installed and install the rock on the furnace wall.
6" round to 10" x 3 1/4" wall stack 90.
The local drywall supply has ROXUL AFB (Acoustical Fire Batts or Safe and Sound at the big box stores) for metal studs. (16 1/4" wide batts) I will be picking up enough to finish the furnace wall, rear wall of the wet bar and the inside walls that separate the laundry/furnace room from the finished area. Same price as fiberglass and you get more Sq Ft per bundle. I rather work with Roxul than fiberglass. Less air borne particles flying around.
The bathroom and wet bar are going to be projects all on their own. Once all the drywall is done, and I can get a coat of primer on all the walls and ceiling, I will be installing the sub-floor, then all the doors.
Waiting for this piece of duct work to come in on Monday so I can get the return air duct re-installed and install the rock on the furnace wall.
6" round to 10" x 3 1/4" wall stack 90.
The local drywall supply has ROXUL AFB (Acoustical Fire Batts or Safe and Sound at the big box stores) for metal studs. (16 1/4" wide batts) I will be picking up enough to finish the furnace wall, rear wall of the wet bar and the inside walls that separate the laundry/furnace room from the finished area. Same price as fiberglass and you get more Sq Ft per bundle. I rather work with Roxul than fiberglass. Less air borne particles flying around.
The bathroom and wet bar are going to be projects all on their own. Once all the drywall is done, and I can get a coat of primer on all the walls and ceiling, I will be installing the sub-floor, then all the doors.
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More pics from today.
Got the wet bar area rocked. It's just 4ft wide. I got a nice small Frankie bar sink for it.
We still have access from behind to run the plumbing so we will do it later.
Got both sides of the soffit rocked. Going to be using 1/4" for the bottom to gain some headroom. Every little bit counts when your 6' 4". Still have to box in around the column. The column is getting a light switch, receptacle, and a plate for the aux rear surround speakers.
Temp wood bracing to keep everything plumb.
Got the wet bar area rocked. It's just 4ft wide. I got a nice small Frankie bar sink for it.
We still have access from behind to run the plumbing so we will do it later.
Got both sides of the soffit rocked. Going to be using 1/4" for the bottom to gain some headroom. Every little bit counts when your 6' 4".
Still have to box in around the column. The column is getting a light switch, receptacle, and a plate for the aux rear surround speakers.Temp wood bracing to keep everything plumb.
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Keeping the noise in the laundry/furnace room with Roxul AFB. I suggest buying it from a local drywall supplier. It's much cheaper than getting it at Home Depot or Lowes around here. The big box stores call it Safe and Sound vs AFB.
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