Barth
Pair
Tons of great info on here for a newbie
-
This site contains affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase after clicking a link, Poker Chip Forum may receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!
My Sticker Mule labeling experience (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter danwmson
- Start date
scbill88
Pair
I assume they need vector graphics and not .jpg?
They can take a raster file as long as it’s 300 DPI or higher.
https://www.stickermule.com/support/file-formats
scbill88
Pair
some things to consider if labeling Majestic China Clays. Majestic's China Clays have a ridge that is totally hidden by their heavy duty textured labels. Their center is .950. Sticker Mule stickers are Vinyl and laminated but still very thin and 1”. I decided to give them a shot anyway thinking I can make it fit. The results were not good. The ridge is visible and the stickers ride up the sides of the center hole. Sticker Mule had my stickers printed and delivered in a week so no complaints there. Their stickers just do not work for these chips. I do have one gripe and it might be my faulty….I received hundreds of precut discs not on a contact sheet. Peeling the stickers from the discs has been a nightmare. Maybe in the way I ordered somehow.
Attachments
dmoney
Full House
Sticker Mule can and has done labels under 1” fwiw
scbill88
Pair
Still going to have to look elsewhere. The Majestic labels were so thick if I pinched them in my fingers, when I relaxed they would pop back to shape. Going to check with Gear to see if they have something similar.
icypanda44
High Hand
Newbie here, couple of comments, not intending to threadjack
1. Impressive work here from many people - congrats
2. Other posts I have seen "down the rabbit hole", "one of us, one of us..." lead some of us fish to believe that PCF players are all using mid range or better chips, but I have seen a couple of posts here about people relabeling lower end chips (I believe I saw comments on relabeling Milanos, DaVinci's, Claysmiths etc) as well as, of course other more expensive chips.
3. I wasn't clear on whether people are using home quality inkjet printers for home based label creation or only laserjet printers. I have a laserjet but it's B&W - I do have several inkjets that are not in use right now.
4. It also occurs to me that one might print labels with some sufficient spacing or solid border around the edge and then you don't need to be 100% precise in doing the cutout around the edges with one of those label cutters.
5. Last comment/question - I used to do some amateur weathering on HO and OO gauge model railroad rolling stock. We used a product called 'Testors dull coat spray' to fix the weather dust, paint and stains on the models after we were done. I am curious if anyone has found it necessary to overspray a sheet of labels with a similar product to fix the ink before peeling off the labels and applying to their chips. Just curious.
1. Impressive work here from many people - congrats
2. Other posts I have seen "down the rabbit hole", "one of us, one of us..." lead some of us fish to believe that PCF players are all using mid range or better chips, but I have seen a couple of posts here about people relabeling lower end chips (I believe I saw comments on relabeling Milanos, DaVinci's, Claysmiths etc) as well as, of course other more expensive chips.
3. I wasn't clear on whether people are using home quality inkjet printers for home based label creation or only laserjet printers. I have a laserjet but it's B&W - I do have several inkjets that are not in use right now.
4. It also occurs to me that one might print labels with some sufficient spacing or solid border around the edge and then you don't need to be 100% precise in doing the cutout around the edges with one of those label cutters.
5. Last comment/question - I used to do some amateur weathering on HO and OO gauge model railroad rolling stock. We used a product called 'Testors dull coat spray' to fix the weather dust, paint and stains on the models after we were done. I am curious if anyone has found it necessary to overspray a sheet of labels with a similar product to fix the ink before peeling off the labels and applying to their chips. Just curious.
Mick
Pair
A lot of my Milanos were the same. I took the time to shave all of these deformities flat with a medical scalpel. Took some time (not as much as you'd assume, 5-10 seconds per chip) but it was worth it. I'd estimate 30% of my chips had to be shaved.
GreekRedEye
Flush
4. That concept is called "bleed.". For example, if you are making a 25mm label you might make the printed label 27mm and keep your design features within a 22 or 23mm radius. That gives you a margin of error of 1mm in any direction for imprecise cutting. Vendors will often specify their bleed requirements to match their machine/process tolerances.
3. I have been experimenting with creating labels at home. I only have access to a black and white LaserJet. So far I have found best results by printing on to basic matte label paper (glossy did not work it smeared), then placing a textured adhesive laminate over that. I used a cricut machine to cut out labels. This is a good thickness but you can double up the bottom label layer if you need thicker. Look and feel to me works great! I held a chip under running water for 30 seconds and let it air dry. No smearing or adhesion issues.
The top labels in the photo below were done this way:
When I am able, I want to try color and inkjet.
dmoney
Full House
@wonderpuddleShameless plugI’ve got a pretty big order for a set coming up in the next few weeks.
If you have an order and are so inclined, use this link. You'll get a $10 credit and I'll get $10 off my next order.
divinerites
Two Pair
[EDIT] Forget this, you had a full detailed response here.
Sorry for the noise
Hello Samuel,
I'm trying to do exactly what you've done, but can't find any maker for some sticker by unit. Always ask minimum of 10 stickers.
I'm trying to get 22mm sticker
- 20 seating chips for 2 tables => 20 UNIQUE design on 1 side and 20 same design on the other side.
- Plus 80x2 designs for some bounty chips.
The difficult part is to get the 20 UNIQUE design on 1 side without having to sell my house.
Thanks for any information about the maker and what you ordered for this ...
Thanks a lot.
dmoney
Full House
Just placed another order to finish off a project set. 6 different 22mm circle designs, and one 26mm design for a 43mm chip. Total 240 labels on 10 sheets for 2,400 labels.
Have they made the process of ordering multiple 22mm designs simpler? I started a discussion with them but it all had to be via email with a rep and I gave up.
dmoney
Full House
YMMV, but I've had no bad experiences doing things over email with them. But I've now placed several orders and have mostly figured out how to get what I want from them without a lot of back and forth.
I emailed help@stickermule.com with each of my designs attached and told them what I wanted. They turned around a proof and I paid for my order in about 24 hours over the weekend. I noted the one that was a different size (26 vs 22mm) just so that was clear.
(my label images removed since I don't want to reveal them yet)
dmoney
Full House
My most recent Sticker Mule project. Labels for 1100 chips - both 39 and 43mm sizes - broken out evenly across 10 total sheets.
merkong
Full House
Very nice. SM for the win.
DeeVee8
Flush
For those who used Sticker Mule for Royals, what size label did you choose?
benjaminbreakfast
Pair
TripleRangeMerger
Sitting Out
I'm going down this path right now. Seems that ordering 27mm is what has worked for @Knoxymoron:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/apache-43mm-royals.108087/post-2527353
And here @Himewad measures the inlay size at 27mm with calipers:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/43mm-royal-cc-recess-label-size.97536/post-2020200
This makes it tricky to order with a lot of vendors that are limited to cuts in inch increments (i.e. I have to choose between 1" which is too small and 1.1" which is too big, and error tolerances aren't good for centring etc etc). Seems StickerMule manages this ok though.
I was planning to order samples to see how the fit/thickness is at 27mm, but I really would like a textured/thick material for the label so I'm still doing research on all those fronts.
I purchased samples from two venders when I was doing my over label project. The first was Gear and the second was sticker mule. I thought the Gear label was the better of the two. I put one of each vendors sticker onto a chip. After a month or so, I removed both stickers. Gear’s stick came off clean. Sticker mule left a significant amount of adhesive on the chip making it sticky.
Rooster410
3 of a Kind
I received more samples yesterday.
I thought I ordered the same product for both colors, but it looks like they are two different types of material.
The label for the brown chip is VERY shiny and kind of see through. (pic below)
The label for the blue chip is not shiny, and you cannot see through it. (pic below)
Response from Sticker Mule:
Our regular custom labels (such as the blue design) are printed on a white BOPP film with a UV luster finish (between matte and gloss). Our custom clear labels (such as the brown design) are printed on a clear BOPP film and feature a glossy UV finish.
Our clear labels are slightly less thick than our regular labels (5.7 mils vs.6.4 mils).
Keep in mind, mil is not short for millimeter. Mil is a commonly used measurement for products like labels and stickers. It's equivalent to 1/1000 of an inch.
The difference in thickness is basically unnoticeable. The main difference is the overall finish (UV luster vs. UV glossy).
I thought I ordered the same product for both colors, but it looks like they are two different types of material.
The label for the brown chip is VERY shiny and kind of see through. (pic below)
The label for the blue chip is not shiny, and you cannot see through it. (pic below)
Response from Sticker Mule:
Our regular custom labels (such as the blue design) are printed on a white BOPP film with a UV luster finish (between matte and gloss). Our custom clear labels (such as the brown design) are printed on a clear BOPP film and feature a glossy UV finish.
Our clear labels are slightly less thick than our regular labels (5.7 mils vs.6.4 mils).
Keep in mind, mil is not short for millimeter. Mil is a commonly used measurement for products like labels and stickers. It's equivalent to 1/1000 of an inch.
The difference in thickness is basically unnoticeable. The main difference is the overall finish (UV luster vs. UV glossy).
Which do you prefer?
Rooster410
3 of a Kind
BOPP film with a UV luster finish (blue chip)
I try Stickermule for a CPC relabel project.
They are quite thin, but the print is good and the 22mm fit perfect!
For €0.11 per label not bad at all.
.10/.20 or .20/.50 games (swiss denoms)
They are quite thin, but the print is good and the 22mm fit perfect!
For €0.11 per label not bad at all.
.10/.20 or .20/.50 games (swiss denoms)
And their hot sauce is pretty darn tasty too!! Looks great
I've used Sticker Mule for a few different custom sets now with more in the plans.
Here are some...
Did 2 racks of fives for a mixed set
Did a low stakes 500 chip cash set for my nephew as an 18th birthday present
Did a small 300 chip TRK T25 tourney set for myself, just because.
I've been happy with all the labels I've received as well as the color matching results.
Here are some...
Did 2 racks of fives for a mixed set
Did a low stakes 500 chip cash set for my nephew as an 18th birthday present
Did a small 300 chip TRK T25 tourney set for myself, just because.
I've been happy with all the labels I've received as well as the color matching results.
And just to note, the chips in the 2 groups on the left side look a little dull in the photos. They are just as sharp and bright as the middle chips in each. The photo is a result of glare and a crappy photographer.
How was the color matching process - did you send them samples or you had a color code of the chips?present
No, I color matched them myself with my color laser printer and crossed my fingers that their output would be close. They pretty much nailed it with the output colors I had on Illustrator.
Create an account or login to comment
You must be a member in order to leave a comment
Create account
Create an account and join our community. It's easy!
Log in
Already have an account? Log in here.
