yup no need for the .50 or the 10.00. Make the 10 a $20 or even a hundo.This is what I was thinking for cash:
.25 x 150
.50 x 150
1.00 x 125
5.00 x 50
10.00 x 25
Tournament
25.00 x 150
100.00 x 150
500.00 x 125
1,000 x 50
5,000 x 25
Any suggestions for these? What should I change?
Also, for the T25 with starting stacks of 10k, 15k, or 20k - what are the blind increments?
This is great info! Thank you very much! How and where do I get these samples? What are they called?Get some Chinese-made Greek ceramic hybrid mold and Web ceramic hybrid mold samples for analysis and review -- they are both similar to Sun-Fly Polyinno ceramic hybrids, only much, much better. And much cheaper -- with design, art fees, chip cost, and shipping, you're looking at around 50c/chip total for 39mm hybrid chips.
Available in many stock designs, semi-customs of those designs, or with your own 100% custom design, the Greek/Web molds have a debossed mold design surface (compared to Polyinno flat plain no-mold surface) combined with a recessed center area containing a high-quality laminated printed label (same as Polyinno). The chip rolling edges are more squarish with a matte finish that matches the chip face (compared to Polyinno's more rounded and glossy edges), and the label lamination had options of textured or matte finish (recommended) vs the glossy lamination or no lamination offered by Sun-Fly. Base chip printing colors are also much brighter and deeper on the Chinese mold hybrids vs Sun-Fly.
Based on your stated feedback on the samples you have already, I'm pretty sure you are going to prefer them over 100% printed ceramic cards molds or china clays with labels. The debossed mold and recessed center with label totally changes not only the look, but also the feel and sound -- making hybrids the closest non-clay chip on the market to producing a more clay-like playing experience.
With a $750 budget covering a single-table 25c/50c cash set plus a 14-player tournament set, I'd recommend the following:
125 x 25c
200 x $1
200 x $5
75 x $20
-------
600 total cash chips (four denominations) with a total bank of over $2700 (avg $300 each for nine players). If you actually manage to run out of chips, you can always just allow $100 cash bills to play.
T25-Base tournament set for 16 players, using 12/12/5/6=10k starting stacks and 25/50 blinds (200bb), with enough extra chips to support re-buys and larger starting stacks:
200 x T25
200 x T100
100 x T500
200 x T1000
100 x T5000
-----------
800 total tournament chips (five denominations), capable of supporting a wide variety of tournament sizes and durations. Set also supports single-table T100- and T500-base events. No mixing of the cash and tourney chips avoids any game security or integrity issues.
1,400 total 39mm hybrid chips can be had for under $750, even if you go full customs.
Get samples.
Every month Justin runs a group buy. The July one is open now here:This is great info! Thank you very much! How and where do I get these samples? What are they called?
Thanks! I’ll check this outEvery month Justin runs a group buy. The July one is open now here:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...d-cards-mold-textured-no-mold-07-2024.120588/
Even though there are a number of different options, the best ones to look at are the Web or Greek mold hybrids.
For samples, he offers them here (again, look at the web mold or Greek mold, the cards mold and no-mold are different):
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/samples-web-greek-cards-no-mold.117345
My suggestion of deep stack is just that. Nothing you can’t experiment with. Adjust until it works the best. Just like bounties and what not, last longer side bets, etc. all the side stuff is for the donors that will rarely take down a tourney. You want them happy. A deep stack is good cuz when they or you, lose 6.5K on the third hand you still have plenty of bb behind. Eventually the blinds will eliminate the hanger-on’ers at one point.@Mushmanchuman @BGinGA @Colquhoun Thanks for the help! I just ordered samples of the Greek and Web molds so can’t wait to get them and see if I like them. I’m going to try that tournament format on Friday night to see how it works.
I was just thinking about this again. You made references to sun fly polyinno chips but how about polyclay? Any differences with those?Get some Chinese-made Greek ceramic hybrid mold and Web ceramic hybrid mold samples for analysis and review -- they are both similar to Sun-Fly Polyinno ceramic hybrids, only much, much better. And much cheaper -- with design, art fees, chip cost, and shipping, you're looking at around 50c/chip total for 39mm hybrid chips.
Available in many stock designs, semi-customs of those designs, or with your own 100% custom design, the Greek/Web molds have a debossed mold design surface (compared to Polyinno flat plain no-mold surface) combined with a recessed center area containing a high-quality laminated printed label (same as Polyinno). The chip rolling edges are more squarish with a matte finish that matches the chip face (compared to Polyinno's more rounded and glossy edges), and the label lamination had options of textured or matte finish (recommended) vs the glossy lamination or no lamination offered by Sun-Fly. Base chip printing colors are also much brighter and deeper on the Chinese mold hybrids vs Sun-Fly.
Based on your stated feedback on the samples you have already, I'm pretty sure you are going to prefer them over 100% printed ceramic cards molds or china clays with labels. The debossed mold and recessed center with label totally changes not only the look, but also the feel and sound -- making hybrids the closest non-clay chip on the market to producing a more clay-like playing experience.
With a $750 budget covering a single-table 25c/50c cash set plus a 14-player tournament set, I'd recommend the following:
125 x 25c
200 x $1
200 x $5
75 x $20
-------
600 total cash chips (four denominations) with a total bank of over $2700 (avg $300 each for nine players). If you actually manage to run out of chips, you can always just allow $100 cash bills to play.
T25-Base tournament set for 16 players, using 12/12/5/6=10k starting stacks and 25/50 blinds (200bb), with enough extra chips to support re-buys and larger starting stacks:
200 x T25
200 x T100
100 x T500
200 x T1000
100 x T5000
-----------
800 total tournament chips (five denominations), capable of supporting a wide variety of tournament sizes and durations. Set also supports single-table T100- and T500-base events. No mixing of the cash and tourney chips avoids any game security or integrity issues.
1,400 total 39mm hybrid chips can be had for under $750, even if you go full customs.
Get samples.
Polyclay is Sun-Fly's version of the cards mold chips. They offer three debossed designs -- cards mold, diamond mold, and an abstract script pattern.I was just thinking about this again. You made references to sun fly polyinno chips but how about polyclay? Any differences with those?
I’m interested in which ceramics topple over? I have a few sets of different ceramics and this has never been an issue. In fact, some of my RHC Paulsons are slipperier.Welcome to PCF! For what it's worth, I m not a big fan of ceramic chips. I play in several home games that have them. They're a little too slippery for my tastes. For example, the stacks tumble over easily if someone bumps the table. I have several players that like to stack high and it's a mess if their towers fall over. Clay chips have just enough friction to minimize this. If you can swing it, make the investment. They will last a lifetime and you won't regret it!
I can’t speak for @InsydeStr8 but a couple of the ceramic samples I received are slippery. They are the empire and Nevada jacks.I’m interested in which ceramics topper over? I have a few sets of different ceramics and this has never been an issue. In fact, some of my RHC Paulsons are slipperier.
The only 39mm 'plain mold' ceramic chips (or derivitives, such as debossed ceramic molds or ceramic hybrids with recessed labels, noted below) that I've handled over the past 20+ years and would not consider as being too slick for my personal tastes are:I’m interested in which ceramics topper over? I have a few sets of different ceramics and this has never been an issue. In fact, some of my RHC Paulsons are slipperier.
Thanks for the overview reply. I’m still learning so all of this is very helpful.The only 39mm 'plain mold' ceramic chips (or derivitives, such as debossed ceramic molds or ceramic hybrids with recessed labels, noted below) that I've handled over the past 20+ years and would not consider as being too slick for my personal tastes are:
• Chipco International
• Game On Chip Company / GOCC
• Palm Gaming / PGI (PGI or Chipco blanks)
• Sun-Fly (RB001 textured polychrome, diamond polyclay, HB001 hybrid polyinno)
• ABC / BRPro Poker (smooth, linen, or Chipco blanks -- not textured)
• Broken Arrow (hybrids -- plain, Greek, or Web mold)
Used chips tend to get slicker with heavy use, especially those without debossed images. And 43mm (and larger) ceramics -- from all manufacturers -- tend to be more stable with less slippage, due to a greater chip-to-chip surface contact area.
I noted in my initial Sun-Fly polyclay review (years ago) that their new debossed diamond mold stacked better than all other ceramics available at that time, and had less slippage than used Paulson RHC mold chips.
I don't what brand of ceramics the private cardroom uses, but I know they are custom chips with the cardroom's logo on them. When I played tournaments years ago at the Venetian, they also had ceramic chips, again I do not know the brand. I know @AKSuited received some slippery samples, so get some samples and judge for yourself before buying them. It's just a personal preference of mine as I'm partial to clay chips.I’m interested in which ceramics topple over? I have a few sets of different ceramics and this has never been an issue. In fact, some of my RHC Paulsons are slipperier.