Please double-check my build itinerary (1 Viewer)

[stevea]

Also an option unless you’re set on folding legs Is a rehab store that sells old tables with pedestal legs or craigslist/facebook will have used tables with pedestal legs. Usually around $40-$50 if you look long enough. (Like the post right before this one that I didn’t even see) lol

 

[stonker]

Also an option unless you’re set on folding legs Is a rehab store that sells old tables with pedestal legs or craigslist/facebook will have used tables with pedestal legs. Usually around $40-$50 if you look long enough. (Like the post right before this one that I didn’t even see) lol

Yes, i paid $50 for the table and chairs. Sold the chairs for $30 and the table top for $35. Net = free legs + $15 in my pocket for my trouble.

 

[xdan]

Grab yourself e-nuts and bolts for holding it all together.
I use M6 (6mm) but my imperial friends would use 1/4”

Just find a bolt long enough for what u need.

 

[honkydevil]

Anyone use MDF instead of plywood?

I did but it was a smaller table. I’d worry it’d sag or something on a big table over time. I think I would always use plywood now.

 

[Tvroc]

I have used the Volara and the 1/4 inch backed sewing foam. Out of the two, I like the backed sewing foam better. The stiffness of the Volara can make the chips bounce a bit and it is tougher to get you fingers under the cards to shuffle. Totally personal preference, but I prefer the pink sewing foam. Its the perfect density in my opinion.

Can you send me the link to look at the sewing foam instead of the Volara? Where can I take a look at that. The volara does sound stiff. Thanks

 

[Redwing1967]

Can you send me the link to look at the sewing foam instead of the Volara? Where can I take a look at that. The volara does sound stiff. Thanks

I believe @longflop is talking about this from YAT:
https://m.yourautotrim.com/14pleatingfoam.html

 

[BGinGA]

A few observations/recommendations:

• A total budget of $350 is a more realistic target for a top-quality table home build.
• Only use folding legs if you plan to store the table when not in use, and don't skimp on this item, either -- a rock-steady table is important.
• Order your SSC from YAT -- guaranteed top-quality and waterproof.
• Consider using 1/4" headliner fabric-backed foam from JoAnn Fabrics for your playing surface foam. Similar to sewing foam, and 50%-off coupons are common.
• A table width of 38" to 42" overall dimensions is optimum for playing comfort, and a length of 2x width works well for aesthetic purposes. 38x76, 40x80, or 42x84 will all easily seat 8-9 players. Keep in mind the extra width/length created by your rail overhang when calculating base table size.
• Other costs not yet accounted for will include spray adhesive, wood glue, screws, and staples -- another $20 or so added to the total cost.

 

[longflop]

I believe @longflop is talking about this from YAT:
https://m.yourautotrim.com/14pleatingfoam.html

That exactly it. Here's the link for non mobile site:

https://www.yourautotrim.com/14pleatingfoam.html

I used that in my most recent build. I reached out to yourautotrim and they let me know that this was the next step down the stiffness scale from the volara. On my three tables, I have standard 1/4" open cell foam, volara and the ts backed sewing foam. My favorite is the ts backed sewing foam. The volara gives you a great solid surface, but it is a bit too stiff for my liking. On the volara, tossed chips won't be damaged, but they will bounce.

 

[Trihonda]

Ok. Assuming you haven’t built the table already. Let’s move from Materials onto technique.

Tips

1- use a router for cuts. The bit width allows consistent spacing for wrapping upholstery and felt (and with the felt, stapling along the cut edge so it’s not showing underneath the table). Also a router is the easiest way to get a smooth professional looking arc cut.
2- use T-nuts to attach the rail. This will elevate this from a DIY hobbled mess to a well crafted and serviceable table. T-nuts are my standard “tell” on build quality. Kinda like when shopping for furniture you look to see how the drawers are joined...
3- upholstery. Take ur time. It’s frustrating at first. But you CAN get out those wrinkles if you follow a smart plan from the start and don’t rush. Lotsa staples.

Best of luck. Take lots of pics for us.

Router with jig

T-nut spacing in a rail

T-nut assembly

 

[longflop]

Ok. Assuming you haven’t built the table already. Let’s move from Materials onto technique.

Tips

1- use a router for cuts. The bit width allows consistent spacing for wrapping upholstery and felt (and with the felt, stapling along the cut edge so it’s not showing underneath the table). Also a router is the easiest way to get a smooth professional looking arc cut.
2- use T-nuts to attach the rail. This will elevate this from a DIY hobbled mess to a well crafted and serviceable table. T-nuts are my standard “tell” on build quality. Kinda like when shopping for furniture you look to see how the drawers are joined...
3- upholstery. Take ur time. It’s frustrating at first. But you CAN get out those wrinkles if you follow a smart plan from the start and don’t rush. Lotsa staples.

Best of luck. Take lots of pics for us.

Router with jig
View attachment 266902

T-nut spacing in a rail
View attachment 266903

T-nut assembly
View attachment 266904View attachment 266905

Fully second the Tee nuts. If anything goes wrong or you just want to replace the felt or rail at some point, it is a lot cleaner.

 

[Trihonda]

Fully second the Tee nuts. If anything goes wrong or you just want to replace the felt or rail at some point, it is a lot cleaner.

I kinda the the OP is mia. He hasn’t replied here or liked any of the posts. But that didn’t stop me from dropping knowledge

 

[Darson]

Don't even bother trying to build your table with a hand crank staple gun - unless you're a real masochist.

 

[msuroo]

I kinda the the OP is mia. He hasn’t replied here or liked any of the posts. But that didn’t stop me from dropping knowledge

The OP may be MIA, but I still have questions! Specifically re: router technique, my first table was round, and circles are easy. Is there a trick to transitioning from the rounds to the straights on an oval table? If I’m going to go with something like 42x84 for dimensions, should I have HD cut the plywood to that size first, or route the entire thing?

 

[Trihonda]

The OP may be MIA, but I still have questions! Specifically re: router technique, my first table was round, and circles are easy. Is there a trick to transitioning from the rounds to the straights on an oval table? If I’m going to go with something like 42x84 for dimensions, should I have HD cut the plywood to that size first, or route the entire thing?

Use the router edge guide to cut straight cuts. I make a mark at the start of the str cut, so I do my cut too far on my arcs (and vs versa).

 

[sergiophil]

The OP may be MIA, but I still have questions! Specifically re: router technique, my first table was round, and circles are easy. Is there a trick to transitioning from the rounds to the straights on an oval table? If I’m going to go with something like 42x84 for dimensions, should I have HD cut the plywood to that size first, or route the entire thing?

I made my own router guide. Then all you have to do is measure to the outside of the router bit to whatever measurement you’d like for your arcs. For the straight cuts, I used an edge guide for those cuts.

Hopefully that helps, any questions just ask!

 

[Tvroc]

That exactly it. Here's the link for non mobile site:

https://www.yourautotrim.com/14pleatingfoam.html

I used that in my most recent build. I reached out to yourautotrim and they let me know that this was the next step down the stiffness scale from the volara. On my three tables, I have standard 1/4" open cell foam, volara and the ts backed sewing foam. My favorite is the ts backed sewing foam. The volara gives you a great solid surface, but it is a bit too stiff for my liking. On the volara, tossed chips won't be damaged, but they will bounce.

Thanks I dont want it too stiff, so you used the one that is linked here, right? Did you use a combo of both the Volara and this or just the pleating foam? Thanks

 

[Darson]

The OP may be MIA, but I still have questions! Specifically re: router technique, my first table was round, and circles are easy. Is there a trick to transitioning from the rounds to the straights on an oval table? If I’m going to go with something like 42x84 for dimensions, should I have HD cut the plywood to that size first, or route the entire thing?

Have HD cut the plywood to rectangular size - it's doable at home with a track or edge guide but so much easier to have them do it (and at no cost).

When I cut the rail & lip out with the router, I used a edge guide to do the straight bits first. Then I used an off-cut attached to the edge guide to do the curves. You can tweak until the bit falls exactly in the hole to get the spacing right before you cut.

All these cuts are gonna be hidden by the rail, foam or cloth so it doesn't matter if they're not 100% perfect.

 

[sergiophil]

Thanks I dont want it too stiff, so you used the one that is linked here, right? Did you use a combo of both the Volara and this or just the pleating foam? Thanks

https://www.menards.com/main/floori...246-c-6539.htm?tid=8918444702553442293&ipos=7

I’ve used this on two of my tables and volara on another one. Both are suitable for me. I don’t see any issues with 3/8. It has done me well and held up great!

 

[Alex Lundstrum]

The OP may be MIA, but I still have questions! Specifically re: router technique, my first table was round, and circles are easy. Is there a trick to transitioning from the rounds to the straights on an oval table? If I’m going to go with something like 42x84 for dimensions, should I have HD cut the plywood to that size first, or route the entire thing?

This was the most frustrating part on my build, as I did not line up the straights and rounds well, causing me to have to sand a transition in. Because the circle jig I have for my router didn't have the right mounting holes (doh!!) the measurements on it are slightly off.
If doing it again with same tools, I'd mount a pencil in router and run it along the circle I'm planning to get exact, then draw straight lines from edge of circle to edge of circle, then start by cutting straights. If you overdo the straights, the issues won't show up nearly as bad as overdoing the rounds.
Have HD make any precuts possible, big time saver.

 

[msuroo]

Thanks for the replies everyone, very helpful. Kinda wish I could bail on work today and just go start building, ha.

 

[longflop]

Thanks I dont want it too stiff, so you used the one that is linked here, right? Did you use a combo of both the Volara and this or just the pleating foam? Thanks

That is the one I used. Just the pleating foam.

 

[Tvroc]

That is the one I used. Just the pleating foam.

Thanks That helps....

 

[longflop]

Thanks That helps....

If you have the time, and ask, they may send you a sample ring with all the different foams. It would give you a chance to get a feel for them.

 

[Tvroc]

If you have the time, and ask, they may send you a sample ring with all the different foams. It would give you a chance to get a feel for them.

Great idea thanks I will ask them that today, I have some time

 

[Tvroc]

Can you send me the link to look at the sewing foam instead of the Volara? Where can I take a look at that. The volara does sound stiff. Thanks

I received Samples to look at and i agree with you that the sewn in is better, but does what is preferred the 1/4 inch or the 1/2 inch, I really like th e1/2 inch think sewn in foam for the table foam. Any help or opinions?

Thanks That helps....

IS 1/2 Inch too thick? I like the 1/2 Inch? your thoughts ?

 

[stonker]

I have used the Volara and the 1/4 inch backed sewing foam. Out of the two, I like the backed sewing foam better. The stiffness of the Volara can make the chips bounce a bit and it is tougher to get you fingers under the cards to shuffle. Totally personal preference, but I prefer the pink sewing foam. Its the perfect density in my opinion.

Which side did you glue to the table when using the backed sewing foam? We just unwrapped the foam and it's pretty bumpy on the backing side. We're letting it lay flat over night hoping it flattens out.

 

[MoeTremper]

Also an option unless you’re set on folding legs Is a rehab store that sells old tables with pedestal legs or craigslist/facebook will have used tables with pedestal legs. Usually around $40-$50 if you look long enough. (Like the post right before this one that I didn’t even see) lol

I recently got a deal a bit different from the dining table pedestal legs most of you guys are talking about. One of my local Habitat for Humanity ReStores got a donation of 150 restaurant tables. I bought two @ $20 each, harvested the cast iron bases, and gave the tops back to the ReStore to get rid of. With a wash and maybe a bit of spray paint, these will be handsome, solid, and the least intrusive option for legroom. I'm even thinking about rigging up a mounting plate option incorporating some sort of latches (like these?) to make them removable for storage.

 

[Irish]

I recently got a deal a bit different from the dining table pedestal legs most of you guys are talking about. One of my local Habitat for Humanity ReStores got a donation of 150 restaurant tables. I bought two @ $20 each, harvested the cast iron bases, and gave the tops back to the ReStore to get rid of. With a wash and maybe a bit of spray paint, these will be handsome, solid, and the least intrusive option for legroom. I'm even thinking about rigging up a mounting plate option incorporating some sort of latches (like these?) to make them removable for storage.
View attachment 279705
View attachment 279706

View attachment 279707

Those are the best type of bases for leg room, I built a table for a buddy with similar legs, it's very comfy to play at.

 

[pbraves]

An update! I came across a completed table on Craigslist for $50, and when I was hesitant to purchase it because of some quality issues, he offered to give it away for $20! Check it out here:

Some issues to document: One, the playing surface is just a 3/16" headliner foam but is in above average condition. The glaring issue is the rail foam which has literally zero support or comfort and must be replaced because it feels like you're just resting on wood blocks. Which is a shame because the vinyl upholstery is tight and uniform. Although, a handful of spots along the vinyl are nicked or torn as well, shown:

The rail is attached via screws not bolts and in a few places (not all), the wood splintered.

My plan of action is this:
Unscrew the rail and take off old vinyl and foam.
Put in T nuts and bolts.
Upholster the rail with new foam and vinyl.
Put new speed cloth over the headliner
Attach rail

Two questions for builders:
-One concern I have is putting in new bolts where the screws are, is there a method to minimize further aggravation to the wood fracturing?
-Do I need to apply adhesive to the top of the foam for the speed cloth to adhere to, or do I just stretch the SC really tight over it?