Removing the cancellation stamp on an inlay (GC Hinkley). (1 Viewer)

I changed the formula a bit
And just soak them In 90% concentrate
It took the foil off a rack in about 10 mins it was 95% dissolved
Also added a little oxi detergent
Worked well for me but yah needs oil after

And wear gloves the concentrate form of it burns any small cuts
Hello all,

I finally worked on the 25s i recently bought from @Carnth and this method worked the best. I did this a rack at a time in a one gallon bowl 50/50 hot water with simple green and two ounces of dawn. I let them soak for an hour after testing a few and due to the quantity. Some (around 10% were a little more stubborn and I set those aside and repeated the process. I used this method for about 240 chips and it worked well without damaging the chips. This will make the chips dry so i did oil them after and they look great. There is still a hint of hot stamp on a few but they are definitely playable.

In total this took me about six hours but this was mostly prep/ soak/cleanup time. About an hour was spent brushing chips.

I wanted to share a few notes:

I did test this method with a bit of oxidizer as listed above which made the chip come out exceptionally clean. Anything beyond 20 minutes will begin to draw the pigment out of the chips. Due to the quantity I was cleaning and the soak time, I narrowed it down to the degreaser/hot water/regular dawn mix. Which worked very well.

Using a toothbrush worked best for me. A light brushing in a circular pattern (approx. 5x per side) took most of them right off. If you have to scrub, soak them again.

I did try goof off and nail polish remover with/without acetone. All worked very well removing the stamps and I would recommend this for small quantities or valuable chips as precision is required. As mentioned by @BGinGA, this will damage the chip face if you are not careful. The non-acetone NPR takes much longer.

I did try 99% alcohol and this did nothing to the hot stamps. I will say this will make the chips super clean.

I tested some 35% hydrogen peroxide for grins expecting the worst and it made the chip into soup and the inlays and stamps were the only survivors.

Here are some pics of those that came out well. I did not take any pics of the test chips but I wish i had.

Vernon



Argosy with cancellation stamp.jpg

After stamps removed and well rinsed.
IMG_1376.jpg
IMG_1377.jpg

After stamps removed, before and after oil.
IMG_1378.jpg
 
Hello all,

I finally worked on the 25s i recently bought from @Carnth and this method worked the best. I did this a rack at a time in a one gallon bowl 50/50 hot water with simple green and two ounces of dawn. I let them soak for an hour after testing a few and due to the quantity. Some (around 10% were a little more stubborn and I set those aside and repeated the process. I used this method for about 240 chips and it worked well without damaging the chips. This will make the chips dry so i did oil them after and they look great. There is still a hint of hot stamp on a few but they are definitely playable.

In total this took me about six hours but this was mostly prep/ soak/cleanup time. About an hour was spent brushing chips.

I wanted to share a few notes:

I did test this method with a bit of oxidizer as listed above which made the chip come out exceptionally clean. Anything beyond 20 minutes will begin to draw the pigment out of the chips. Due to the quantity I was cleaning and the soak time, I narrowed it down to the degreaser/hot water/regular dawn mix. Which worked very well.

Using a toothbrush worked best for me. A light brushing in a circular pattern (approx. 5x per side) took most of them right off. If you have to scrub, soak them again.

I did try goof off and nail polish remover with/without acetone. All worked very well removing the stamps and I would recommend this for small quantities or valuable chips as precision is required. As mentioned by @BGinGA, this will damage the chip face if you are not careful. The non-acetone NPR takes much longer.

I did try 99% alcohol and this did nothing to the hot stamps. I will say this will make the chips super clean.

I tested some 35% hydrogen peroxide for grins expecting the worst and it made the chip into soup and the inlays and stamps were the only survivors.

Here are some pics of those that came out well. I did not take any pics of the test chips but I wish i had.

Vernon



View attachment 1432896
After stamps removed and well rinsed.
View attachment 1432898View attachment 1432899
After stamps removed, before and after oil.
View attachment 1432900


That is some damn fine work!
 
Hello all,

I finally worked on the 25s i recently bought from @Carnth and this method worked the best. I did this a rack at a time in a one gallon bowl 50/50 hot water with simple green and two ounces of dawn. I let them soak for an hour after testing a few and due to the quantity. Some (around 10% were a little more stubborn and I set those aside and repeated the process. I used this method for about 240 chips and it worked well without damaging the chips. This will make the chips dry so i did oil them after and they look great. There is still a hint of hot stamp on a few but they are definitely playable.

In total this took me about six hours but this was mostly prep/ soak/cleanup time. About an hour was spent brushing chips.

I wanted to share a few notes:

I did test this method with a bit of oxidizer as listed above which made the chip come out exceptionally clean. Anything beyond 20 minutes will begin to draw the pigment out of the chips. Due to the quantity I was cleaning and the soak time, I narrowed it down to the degreaser/hot water/regular dawn mix. Which worked very well.

Using a toothbrush worked best for me. A light brushing in a circular pattern (approx. 5x per side) took most of them right off. If you have to scrub, soak them again.

I did try goof off and nail polish remover with/without acetone. All worked very well removing the stamps and I would recommend this for small quantities or valuable chips as precision is required. As mentioned by @BGinGA, this will damage the chip face if you are not careful. The non-acetone NPR takes much longer.

I did try 99% alcohol and this did nothing to the hot stamps. I will say this will make the chips super clean.

I tested some 35% hydrogen peroxide for grins expecting the worst and it made the chip into soup and the inlays and stamps were the only survivors.

Here are some pics of those that came out well. I did not take any pics of the test chips but I wish i had.

Vernon



View attachment 1432896
After stamps removed and well rinsed.
View attachment 1432898View attachment 1432899
After stamps removed, before and after oil.
View attachment 1432900
Great that worked for those and thanks for sharing!

However, to anyone reading this w/ regard to Hinkley's like in the OP, do not use Oxi. It will ruin/discolor your chip(s).

Specifically, Oxi fades certain color reds, while hydrogen peroxide lightens gray/showboat-gray, so neither are advised for Hinkley $5s. It's a very tough chip for removal, so basically, I am still stuck with the hand method. Everything else, including the aforementioned, degreaser, ultrasonic, and so on comes with an associated (and likely) risk of damaging the chips.

Science!!
breakingbad-science.gif
 
Last edited:
Great that worked for those and thanks for sharing!

However, to anyone reading this w/ regard to Hinkley's like in the OP, do not use Oxi. It will ruin/discolor your chip(s).

Specifically, Oxi fades certain color reds, while hydrogen peroxide lightens gray/showboat-gray, so neither are advised for Hinkley $5s. It's a very tough chip for removal, so basically, I am still stuck with the hand method. Everything else, including the aforementioned, degreaser, ultrasonic, and so on comes with an associated (and likely) risk of damaging the chips.


View attachment 1433020
Agreed, oxidizers can be bad news for anything with pigment.
 
I am on this journey with some recently acquired sundowners. Looks like these have been around and run over by a car and nobody has taken to deep cleaning them. Makes sense because of the stamp but given i am new to this addiction i thought i would put in the work.

From left to right is original state - diluted simple green bath - raw simple green bath + fast rub of mineral oil.

1734898490755.png


They clean up well and the red/light blue pops nicely but the hotstamp is stubborn.

@Josh Kifer i ran into a few posts where you made this sound like it was trivial to remove - i am struggling a bit - got any tips? Forgive me if i missed a thread somewhere.
 
I am on this journey with some recently acquired sundowners. Looks like these have been around and run over by a car and nobody has taken to deep cleaning them. Makes sense because of the stamp but given i am new to this addiction i thought i would put in the work.

From left to right is original state - diluted simple green bath - raw simple green bath + fast rub of mineral oil.

View attachment 1437586

They clean up well and the red/light blue pops nicely but the hotstamp is stubborn.

@Josh Kifer i ran into a few posts where you made this sound like it was trivial to remove - i am struggling a bit - got any tips? Forgive me if i missed a thread somewhere.
It's not hard. I'll send ya a PM in a bit.
 

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