BHK25
Two Pair
Possibly something similar to this as far as felt goes? Except insert my teams logos etc.
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Suggestions for Custom Poker Table (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter BHK25
- Start date
I would shrink it so the court becomes the default betting line, at least lengthwise.
Jake14mw
Flush
I will agree this is great to look at... while you're not playing cards on it! I love themes, and don't even mind a little busyness, but I think that would get really tired visually. I would change the wood flooring to a solid color. Or go with something more like what T_Chan proposed.
BHK25
Two Pair
I wish I could tell what it looked like with chips in play
justsomedude
Straight Flush
+1 to this post here!
I've dealt with all three options over the years... cup holders in rail, slide under cupholders, and drink carts. My first table build was designed for slide-under cup holders, mainly because it's such a relatively simple table to build. My current build has cup holders built into the rail. And if I build a third table, it would have cup holders in the rail as well.
In a perfect world my top choice for cup holders would be:
1) No cup holders at all - Drink carts / side tables only
If you have the real estate in your poker room, get the drinks off the table entirely, don't poke any holes in your beautiful rail, and stock up on side tables. The problem is, this isn't a practical option for most garage/basement poker rooms. The side tables just take up too much damn space.
1a) Cup holders in rail
Short of having all the space in the world for side tables, cup-holders-built-into-rail are the best compromise of all options (in my opinion).
You don't have to deal with the extra poker "gear" of side tables and slide-under cup holders, and if spaced properly, the rail can still be comfortable and built-in cupholders will be of minimal nuisance.
3) No cup holders in rail - slide under cup holders for players who want them
A lot of people love this option, but for me it's at the bottom of my list. I have enough poker crap as it is, and storing cup holders and then handing them out to folks who want them, is just more hosting work than I'm interested in. That being said, it's nice to have the option of no drink at all, and all that access to the felt in front of you. So I understand why it's so popular.
I don't have much of an opinion on the other stuff... USB power, wood racetrack, custom felt, LED lights, folding legs vs. pedestals, acrylic reveal, strippers... it's all deadly. Pick your poison.
Yes to:
- Custom felt on a real casino cloth not suited speed cloth
- 8 feet in length oval shaped
- Raised rail (only if height difference is less than 3/4", otherwise it is really tough to play on)
- Pedestal Legs with Foot Rail or Folding Gorilla Legs
- 5" to 6" wide rail with cups or 4-5" without
- LED Lighting w/ rechargeable battery
- USB Charging ports
- Cupholders in rails as long as builder has put some actual thought/math/science behind it
- Swing out cupholders are a great solution to keep the drinks out of the way
- MDF should not make up any part of the table
- Racetrack, unless the cloth surface matches the height of racetrack perfectly
- Chip racks around the table like a craps table, why?
- Cupholders in the playing surface
- Bolt on USB charging ports and the mess of wires
- Cheap Folding table legs from home depot, they will become wobbly within a few uses
- Shuffler, unless your running a full business and hands per hour is really that important
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I would recommend not having too elaborate a graphic on the custom felt. (TChan’s suggestions are good.) For example, the basketball court is too much. When the graphics are too busy, it can make cards and some chips will be hard to pick out.
As for folding legs... It really depends on your space and needs. If you can keep the table set up full-time, great. But if you have to store it, folding legs are just a necessity.
Just don’t cheap out if you get folding legs. I bought the sturdiest I could find, while still allowing me to lift the table myself. And made sure they were attached very, very securely. You want it to be impossible for anyone to collapse it accidentally.
As for folding legs... It really depends on your space and needs. If you can keep the table set up full-time, great. But if you have to store it, folding legs are just a necessity.
Just don’t cheap out if you get folding legs. I bought the sturdiest I could find, while still allowing me to lift the table myself. And made sure they were attached very, very securely. You want it to be impossible for anyone to collapse it accidentally.
Agree....
Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
Great post!!!Yes to:
No to:
- Custom felt on a real casino cloth not suited speed cloth
- 8 feet in length oval shaped
- Raised rail (only if height difference is less than 3/4", otherwise it is really tough to play on)
- Pedestal Legs with Foot Rail or Folding Gorilla Legs
- 5" to 6" wide rail with cups or 4-5" without
- LED Lighting w/ rechargeable battery
- USB Charging ports
- Cupholders in rails as long as builder has put some actual thought/math/science behind it
- Swing out cupholders are a great solution to keep the drinks out of the way
Your Options and personal preference certainly plays a big part and what needs you have, portability, or other stuff.
- MDF should not make up any part of the table
- Racetrack, unless the cloth surface matches the height of racetrack perfectly
- Chip racks around the table like a craps table, why?
- Cupholders in the playing surface
- Bolt on USB charging ports and the mess of wires
- Cheap Folding table legs from home depot, they will become wobbly within a few uses
- Shuffler, unless your running a full business and hands per hour is really that important
- Dining Table Cover (if you want to use this as another type of table)
I must ask, what difference does it make to a poker table if it's got a dining table cover or not? It's makes NO difference if it has a topper or not.
I own 1 of each, and both poker tables rock! Having a fancy Walnut wood dining table cover rocks, and having a kick-ass poker table underneath is even more amazing.
The reason I make my tables where you don't need to cover them..man cave table...
Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
T_Chan is the absolute master and a very kind and non-antagonistic guy, so I guess he could provide your local carpenter friend with guidance.
Get at least a custom felt from Tony, or at least one with a betting line (this is the most valuable feature; otherwise, make sure not to make the felt too busy, if customised).
I 'd also get a very slightly raised rail. I' m a minority here advocating half inch. NOT lit. Rail lighting is supposed to help you see your hole cards, but the light from the opposite side might get into your eyes.
Cupholders are beautiful and handy, but prescriptive in terms of players' positioning. I would avoid them only if I had tons of real estate around the room (intended for side tables).
If the game is going to be self-dealt, the only ergonomical position, IMO, is just under each player's chest, on the rail.
If the table were meant to be huge, width-wise too (smth like 55in wide oval x102in long), I 'd even place the cupholders on the playing surface, making the rail just 4 in fat.
Get at least a custom felt from Tony, or at least one with a betting line (this is the most valuable feature; otherwise, make sure not to make the felt too busy, if customised).
I 'd also get a very slightly raised rail. I' m a minority here advocating half inch. NOT lit. Rail lighting is supposed to help you see your hole cards, but the light from the opposite side might get into your eyes.
Cupholders are beautiful and handy, but prescriptive in terms of players' positioning. I would avoid them only if I had tons of real estate around the room (intended for side tables).
If the game is going to be self-dealt, the only ergonomical position, IMO, is just under each player's chest, on the rail.
If the table were meant to be huge, width-wise too (smth like 55in wide oval x102in long), I 'd even place the cupholders on the playing surface, making the rail just 4 in fat.
Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
Im with ya, although I did 3/4" , and I would do the same for my next build.
Lighting on the rail is more of a novelty on a poker table. Like any novelty, it will wear out and become an unused feature. Just my opinion. I see lights are a popular feature but I easily pass this option..
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Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
No argument here! Absolutely truth!
lol, you like mdf?
IMO it's too heavy, sucks up moisture like sponge (a problem especially in places like basements) , and loses it's integrity long term especially in a moist environment. ... also t-nuts don't like mdf if you are using those.
Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
As well, if one wants to work with it, and cut or saw it, it's dam toxic and stinks. Hate the stuff..
What else...it doesn't hold screws for long. You can never get bite in the same screw hole again. Just terrible.
You realize they make Truman ultra light mdf and water resistant mdf correct?
Yes, "trupan"... we use it for our CNC as a spoil board. That is the only use I have found for it!
Jeevansluck
Royal Flush
Gorilla Legs FTW!!!
My old TChan DBZ received an upgrade earlier this year...
Out with the old squeaky clunky clankety (but functional) legs...
In with a new pair of Gorilla legs...easy peasy to install with a drill..
Table is sturdier than ever imaginable, it doesn't budge a hair, even if I lean into it..
I also add a rubber sole to each foot, for grip to the laminate. Works like a charm
My old TChan DBZ received an upgrade earlier this year...
Out with the old squeaky clunky clankety (but functional) legs...
In with a new pair of Gorilla legs...easy peasy to install with a drill..
Table is sturdier than ever imaginable, it doesn't budge a hair, even if I lean into it..
I also add a rubber sole to each foot, for grip to the laminate. Works like a charm
Whats wrong with LED lights? It's like having the underbody glow for your vehicle, but now with Bluetooth controls.
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