Table Build #2 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MatB
- Start date
Stylin
Pair
So the key to an even rail is even pressure. I start in the middle and staple, then goto the opposite side stretch and staple. Then stretch the middle of the new section you just made and staple. Now do the other section you made on the other side of the middle. You now have 4 sections. Stretch from the middle of these to make 8 sections. Continue until you only have 2" or so between sections and now you can do final pull and staple down the line. There should be no more then 1/8" between staples when you're done. Remember, pull to the same strength every time you stretch for a perfect even rail.
OP
OP
Yes, i'm starting to get the hang of it.
Not even sure what my previous post was saying, i typed mid staple !
Heres the rail after the redoing the outside vinyl, not perfect but removed 96% of the creases.
K ALL IN 9
Flush
so you dont wrap the foam around on the inner perimeter?
K ALL IN 9
Flush
it wraps the top inner edge but doesn't come underneath? what I'm trying to say is that some people leave like 3 inches of foam on the outer perimeter and 1.5 or 2 inches on the inner so the material can wrap around. in your picture it looks like there's just barely enough foam on the inner to cover the corner of the wood but not wrap underneath. sorry if I'm not making sense
OP
OP
K ALL IN 9
Flush
Yes exactly
Around 1 inch of foam, wraps around 3/4" plywood just fine. It tends to roll over some too.
There are some tables that go with zero foam on the inner rail, and they're ok, but I prefer foam on the inner rail.
There are some tables that go with zero foam on the inner rail, and they're ok, but I prefer foam on the inner rail.
OP
OP
This build i just had the foam cover the 3/4 edge of the inside of the rail. I regret that. I prefer it when it goes to the under side.
What i didn't realize was the foam compression, when the rail is crewed down, has enough give for the slide under cupholders to go in, and enough to stop cards sliding under. With this table and no foam going under, cards slide under a little too easy.
What i didn't realize was the foam compression, when the rail is crewed down, has enough give for the slide under cupholders to go in, and enough to stop cards sliding under. With this table and no foam going under, cards slide under a little too easy.
I have never seen a build that intentionally wrapped the foam on the underside of the rail (that contacts the play surface). Have you actually seen this? If so, pics
. Interesting concept.
OP
OP
I have never seen a build that intentionally wrapped the foam on the underside of the rail (that contacts the play surface). Have you actually seen this? If so, pics
Well, i did it by mistake for my first build, and i liked the way it compresses down.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/table-new-build-rail-foam-thickness.10770/
I would think this would stress the rail vinyl at an odd angle. To clarify, When you compress the foam, and pull the vinyl straight sideways, it pulls the material laterally. If there was foam on top of the same plane you're stapling too, it seems like the vinyl would be pulled up, and away from the staples at an angle. This might not be meaningful at all. I just envision this not having the same longevity as a traditional build. Who knows.
I've only built 15 or so tables (so I'm not an expert), but since I'm always looking to improve my table building skillz, I'd be curious to hear input from @T_Chan on this technique.
If this worked for you with no negative drawbacks, then it sounds like a successful build regardless.
I've only built 15 or so tables (so I'm not an expert), but since I'm always looking to improve my table building skillz, I'd be curious to hear input from @T_Chan on this technique.
If this worked for you with no negative drawbacks, then it sounds like a successful build regardless.
OP
OP
That was my first build and didn't use nearly enough staples, but the rail vinyl has held up well, maybe a little "squishy" as it could have been done tighter originally.
So i'm curious as to what techniques are used in table builds to prevent cards sliding under rail.
@manamongkids Gorilla Gaming table appears to not have surface foam (1/4") right where the rail meets the surface so the playing surface is very slightly higher than the bottom of the rail where the cards would normally slide under. Nice table too, although the cup holders dont slide in super easy because of this feature. IMO.
Stylin
Pair
I glue the foam to the edge inside and outside. I just hold it in place for say 30 seconds and it sticks. Then I cut it flush with the under side of the rail with a turkey carving electric knife.
Well done sir!
Most folks I know have (or built) tables that utilize t-nuts/bolts to attach the rail. These allow you to screw down the rail to a desired tightness. Somewhere between "letting the cupholders slide under" and "not allowing cards to".
I've seen this type of construction. This would certainly prevent cards from sliding under the rail, and I can see it wouldn't be easy to use cupholders... I tend to prefer the play surface foam extend the entire width of the play surface. Just my preference.
The [cards sliding under] issue seems to be a major concern of yours. Have you experienced this a lot previously? In all the tables I've built, I've never once factored this in (or designed something differently to address this). It's never been an issue for me. ...No wait, I take that back. A year ago, we had a card slip under the rail. A quick check determined the rail was very loose, which was corrected on the spot (10 seconds) by a nearby screw driver.
Like most, I researched online when building my first table. I read tutorials, and scoured the now defunct "Scott Keen's" website, and Poker Table Forum. It was there I met Tony and many other amazing builders, and developed my build style and techniques. I'm still learning of course, but I think I got lucky early on, and the build designs I found/used were solid.
OP
OP
I was not sure i wanted to do table #2 as table #1 was tricky, but like you said before, it gets a little easier and you start to "get" things/ techniques.
So i'm actually looking forward to build #3.
Also you hit the nail on the head, always learning. That pretty much how i go through life. That way theres always something new.
So i'm actually looking forward to build #3.
Also you hit the nail on the head, always learning. That pretty much how i go through life. That way theres always something new.
K ALL IN 9
Flush
After reading through all these threads I decided to pull all the staples from the inner perimeter and do it this way. I am very happy with the results and I'm pretty positive I won't have to mess with this table again
I'm not sure if I can provide any insight in this regards because I've never made use of slide under cup holders. I've recently built 2 tables with no cup holers in the rails and was asked not to tighten the rail down too much so that they could use slide under cup holders, but I don't know how those turned out. I've never been a fan of slide under cup holders. I'm a big advocate of nothing on the playing surface other than cards, chips and card protectors.
Upholstery is certainly one of the hardest parts. Many of us have handled power tools at some point or another, but not many have tackled foam and vinyl. It's a very tricky thing to master. I'm still learning new techniques despite having upholstered 200+ rails.
This reminds me of an episode of "Canada's best handyman" and they asked a group of very skilled tradesmen to build and then upholster a seat cushion and most failed miserably.
Upholstery is certainly one of the hardest parts. Many of us have handled power tools at some point or another, but not many have tackled foam and vinyl. It's a very tricky thing to master. I'm still learning new techniques despite having upholstered 200+ rails.
This reminds me of an episode of "Canada's best handyman" and they asked a group of very skilled tradesmen to build and then upholster a seat cushion and most failed miserably.
Tony, what are your thoughts on running the 1" HD foam "under" the rail on the inside? I've always run it so the inner rail edge has foam, but the foam ends there.
I've never done it, and I intentionally avoid it. If I end up with some foam that goes under the rail, I remove the staples and redo it. Mat seems to have found a good reason to do it though, since his slide under cup holders worked well with this technique.
OP
OP
Did you staple the foam to the edge before? that had never occurred to me. I barely use any glue on the foam to attach to the rail surface, i Kind of assumed the tension and staples in the rail vinyl would be enough to keep the foam in place.
Purely for comparison. Here's a CL ad, where the builder does not foam the inner rail whatsoever. I think this makes it much easier to upholster, and looks clean... but my preference is to foam the inner rail.
Chicago Poker Tables
For the record, I believe Jeff (WCB) has a table from this guy, and it is very nice.
Chicago Poker Tables
For the record, I believe Jeff (WCB) has a table from this guy, and it is very nice.
I've used adhesive spray glue, the kind that gets tacky and bonds with each other after like 30 seconds... I spray the foam lightly, then the rail, then press them together, they won't come apart. I use a different spray adhesive for the volara foam. Very light coat. But I never use glue to secure the felt.
Stylin
Pair
Glad it all worked out and I could help.
Yeah the slide-out cupholders are MUCH more appealing to me than disrupting the table felt with slide-under cupholders. Might have to try to rig something up before I go the in-rail route.
And yeah...always have glue on hand.
Create an account or login to comment
You must be a member in order to leave a comment
Create account
Create an account and join our community. It's easy!
Log in
Already have an account? Log in here.
Similar threads
