the best mixed set you can put together with your chips ?? (2 Viewers)

I don’t know what the other chips would be, but the fivers would be these...

A254B3DB-A8DF-44E7-8A2A-2FC36B7C1B63.jpeg


Guess it’ll be a Cali color set....
F#ck it, it’s going to be a 10/20 limit set. I’ll need to scare up another 6-8 racks, just to be safe. Riverside hundos as the value chip.

316405E3-7E0D-4476-BBEA-B07BFB4F6D5C.jpeg
 
Using existing denominations? Restricted to Paulson THC mold:

cash:
25c -- Empress Star (blue 8V) or Four Queens (red/black half-pies)
$1 -- Jerry's Nugget (white) or Four Queens (blue quarter-pies)
$5 -- Golden Eagle or Aurora Star
$25 -- 20th Century (or Empress Star $20)
$100 -- Casablanca (showboat grey/yellow)

tourney:
25 Aviation Club de France
100 Empress Star (primary)
500 Empress Star (primary)
1000 Aurora Star
5000 Empress Star (secondary)
25000 Aviation Club de France

No more RVCL, PCA, Empress, Aztar, or Starlites in the stable, or those two mixed sets would most likely be a lot different.

However, if willing to create fantasy sets by relabeling chips.... I'd have to give that some serious thought. But I do have a relabeled 43mm IHC mold tourney set in progress that I'm pretty happy with:

T25 - Aurora Star $25
T100 - Aurora Star $100
T500 - Casino Aztar IN $1000 primary
T1000 - Aurora Star $20
T5000 - Horseshoe Cleveland $5000 secondary
T25000 - Winner's Club $10000 (47mm no-mold)

.... with the following oversize chips as backups/alternates:
Casino Aztar IN $1000 secondary (43mm)
Horseshoe Cleveland $25000 secondary (43mm)
Mandalay Bay $5 (43mm house mold)
Grand Cardroom (50mm BCC no-molds, Fire and White)

You think you can post this without pron??
 
Hey bud, can you provide details of how the labels worked over shaped inlays? People in one of my threads said it would look bad as you can see the inlay through the sticker, is this true if using gear non laminated labels?

I am almost certain you can't see an original shaped inlays under a label, laminated or not. A shaped inlay is pressed into the chip and there shouldn't be any "edge" between the inlay and chip interface from my experience.
 
I am almost certain you can't see an original shaped inlays under a label, laminated or not. A shaped inlay is pressed into the chip and there shouldn't be any "edge" between the inlay and chip interface from my experience.

Here are pics from another member:
3A4A58BC-7842-41C4-A0FD-8A76463EE658.jpeg
F3533BC0-EDEB-4C8A-9CF3-57603C261DAD.jpeg
 
Did they remove the inlay, then put a label over it?.. something doesn't look right in those pics.
like bentax1978 said, the inlay is flush with the chip recess.
Not sure if I am seeing recess, relief or just an outline in those pics
 
Last edited:
I thought those pics looked funky, too. Certainly using a laminated label won't show the underlying shaped inlay, but I haven't checked how an unlaminated @Gear label works on used chips with shaped inlays.
 
The 2nd picture with the black label shows a super pronounced inlay below it. I wonder if those are gear labels or if something is off with that one King chip? I could def feel the edges on some of my Aztars but it didn't feel enough to show like that King is. Maybe I will try to sample a few if I decide to go that route.
 
The 2nd picture with the black label shows a super pronounced inlay below it. I wonder if those are gear labels or if something is off with that one King chip? I could def feel the edges on some of my Aztars but it didn't feel enough to show like that King is. Maybe I will try to sample a few if I decide to go that route.
They’re not super pronounced, but will absolutlety catch the light at certain angles and be very pronounced. You can’t feel the edges of the inlay as much as see them.
4884F9AC-6D3E-45D2-9D76-366917BF6FD1.jpeg
6922935E-CD3B-4C56-B337-C657C150E472.jpeg
 
They’re not super pronounced, but will absolutlety catch the light at certain angles and be very pronounced. You can’t feel the edges of the inlay as much as see them. View attachment 210766View attachment 210767

I can see a slightly edge in those pictures on the original inlay. Maybe over time the inlay shrinks a little relative to the clay, or the clay swells a little from oils and moisture, creating a slight mismatch. I don't recall that being the case on any of my shaped inlay chips, but then again I've never really looked for it specifically.
 
Whats weird to be is the black label looks like the inlay is pushing it out, but the stock chips inlay looks recessed almost. @kmccormick100 can you confirm who made the labels?
 
I can see a slightly edge in those pictures on the original inlay. Maybe over time the inlay shrinks a little relative to the clay, or the clay swells a little from oils and moisture, creating a slight mismatch. I don't recall that being the case on any of my shaped inlay chips, but then again I've never really looked for it specifically.
These are from 1974 so ymmv, haha. With the edge of an exacto, I can barely feel that the inlay is ever so slightly higher than the clay. Like I said, on the labels you can’t feel the edge as much as see it, and it’s far more pronounced on black than white. If you label over, I’d suggest white which is more Matte , as the printed inks I think get glossier and magnify the difference as they catch the light.
 
Thanks everyone. I believe all of you, I'm just trying to gather info on experiences before deciding anything further. @Gear have you seen this issue before in the past when labeling over a shaped inlay?
 
Thanks everyone. I believe all of you, I'm just trying to gather info on experiences before deciding anything further. @Gear have you seen this issue before in the past when labeling over a shaped inlay?

No, it hadn't occurred to me as a problem, but I can believe it would be visible in just the right light. Some shaped inlays are indeed a little lower than the surrounding chip material. Probably (as @bentax1978 said) the older the chip, the more likely and/or pronounced the difference.
 
I have definitely seen shaped inlay chips where the inlay is not flush with the surrounding clay. Sometimes raised, but more often sunken if not flush. But usually flush.
 
No, it hadn't occurred to me as a problem, but I can believe it would be visible in just the right light. Some shaped inlays are indeed a little lower than the surrounding chip material. Probably (as @bentax1978 said) the older the chip, the more likely and/or pronounced the difference.

@Gear I have an idea. What if we matched the underlying shaped inlay on fake shaped inlay label? Would that solve the issue and add a cool affect if done right?
 
@Gear I have an idea. What if we matched the underlying shaped inlay on fake shaped inlay label? Would that solve the issue and add a cool affect if done right?

I wouldn't recommend it. Getting the alignment just right (and it would have to be nearly perfect) would drive you absolutely bonkers.
 
I wouldn't recommend it. Getting the alignment just right (and it would have to be nearly perfect) would drive you absolutely bonkers.

This is what we have gear for. I would have died trying to line that up. Didn't think about it. Guess I'll have to try samples and see what happens if I decide to label over. Otherwise I'll just have to buy more chips for labels later on... Oh no.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom