Would these colours tilt you? (1 Viewer)

[Blind Joe]

When I was looking to buy my very first set I had my sights set on these chips, one of my main reasons for liking them was the absence of a dollar sign (I'm in the UK) and the big clear numbers, but alas they were out of stock.

I bought an alternative (see below) that looks very similar, albeit with dollar signs next to the denominations, with a view to replacing them when the ones I wanted were back in stock, which happens to be now. However, I'm starting to wonder if the new colours will bug me since the "temporary" set uses a more standard palette.

I'm wondering if maybe I should re-lable my current set (although I currently have no idea how much this would cost or how to do it).

 

[Frogzilla]

colors look fine, but I’d be concerned about similarity of 25 and 5k. If they are on the table at same time could be an issue. You could just swap 5k and 25k, and remember to not bring out 25k until 25s are all colored up

ETA: 25s and 100s kind of close also. maybe make the 5k chip teal your 25, the pink 25k your 5k, and the current 25 grey your $25k.

 

[Blind Joe]

colors look fine, but I’d be concerned about similarity of 25 and 5k. If they are on the table at same time could be an issue. You could just swap 5k and 25k, and remember to not bring out 25k until 25s are all colored up

ETA: 25s and 100s kind of close also. maybe make the 5k chip teal your 25, the pink 25k your 5k, and the current 25 grey your $25k.

I agree on both clashes - 25/1000 in the first set and 25/5000 in the second.

Currently the T25s and T5000s do go on the table at the same time as the T5000s are handed out for rebuys. However, the T25s are from the bottom pic and the T5000s are from the top as I bought a roll of 25 x T5000s to sample (ie have moar chips) so they don't clash but do have different labels.

I think if I want a unified set with non clashing colours I'm going to struggle with these aren't I?

 

[Vice]

The colors would put me on tilt. I like traditional colors.

 

[PlaidDragon]

Sorry to say I've never been a fan of the Royales.... though the associated plaques are nice.

 

[Mr Winberg]

If you're going for the first set, perhaps you could use T100 as the base? The T100 base seems to be becoming more and more popular. Then you'll have no T25 to clash with the T1000. Having T5000 as the highest denom may or may not suffice depending on the structure and number of players. You could run T20k starting with
100/100
100/200
100/300
200/400 (then normal from here, i.e., 300/600 ect)
In that case the T5000 as the highest is enough. If you run for example T40k starting with
100/200
200/400 etc
then you will probably want to relabel a few to chips to 25k, or get some plaques!

From my experience, when you have 400k in play you can force some 25k chips/plaques on to the table, although they are not needed. But they're cool. When exceeding 800k in play they become useful.

 

[Mr Winberg]

The best idea ever would be to have a T25 base of the first set, take the T100 and T100,000 from the second set and relabel them to T100 and T500 for the first set. Then post pr0n and PCF goes on mass tilt! Throw in a T50 for good measure and the server crashes

 

[Blind Joe]

If you're going for the first set, perhaps you could use T100 as the base? The T100 base seems to be becoming more and more popular. Then you'll have no T25 to clash with the T1000. Having T5000 as the highest denom may or may not suffice depending on the structure and number of players. You could run T20k starting with
100/100
100/200
100/300
200/400 (then normal from here, i.e., 300/600 ect)
In that case the T5000 as the highest is enough. If you run for example T40k starting with
100/200
200/400 etc
then you will probably want to relabel a few to chips to 25k, or get some plaques!

From my experience, when you have 400k in play you can force some 25k chips/plaques on to the table, although they are not needed. But they're cool. When exceeding 800k in play they become useful.

I'll have a think about this. We are usually 6—8 handed so probably wouldn't reach 400k in a T20k tourney which would mean the 4 highest denoms would probably suffice. That said, I'm not sure how comfortable I am with the first 3 blind levels. I'm used to lopsided blinds, eg 25/50 followed by 25/75 but those 3 x 100 SBs tilt me for some reason.

 

[Mr Winberg]

I'm not sure how comfortable I am with the first 3 blind levels. I'm used to lopsided blinds, eg 25/50 followed by 25/75 but those 3 x 100 SBs tilt me for some reason.

I kinda agree with you, they don't tilt me that much but I don't love them either. A lot of large tournaments are going this route, though. For example, WSOP main event, see levels three and five:

You could use T40k stacks instead. Based on the info here

Another update on my evolving tournament...

you get roughly 1.5 starting stacks in play per player. If you're 8 handed, that's 12 starting stacks, which is 480k in play. A 25k chip is not needed until you reach about 800k.

If we mirror you structure from that thread you'd have only one lopsided level:
100/200
100/300
200/400
300/600 etc.

 

[Blind Joe]

You could use T40k stacks instead. Based on the info here


you get roughly 1.5 starting stacks in play per player. If you're 8 handed, that's 12 starting stacks, which is 480k in play. A 25k chip is not needed until you reach about 800k.

If we mirror you structure from that thread you'd have only one lopsided level:
100/200
100/300
200/400
300/600 etc.

That's the conclusion I came to and came up with a quick structure but it could probably be improved upon. It's a bit long, has 2 lopsided levels and having the breaks 1hr apart means colouring up the T100s a level late. Also, while I could probably get away with not having any T25K chips or plaques it feels like there might be a lot of chips on the table heads up.

Why does buying chips open a can of worms?

Edit: found this structure on the forums which is better than mine.

Edit: replaced structure image as it contained errors.

 

[Mr Winberg]

Why does buying chips open a can of worms?

I would say your can of worms is still pretty small. Most PCF:ers be like

Spoiler

Just double checking before I post: Is the requirement still the you have at most 8 players, your rebuys are estimated to increase the chips in play by ~50%, and you want the tournament to end after 4h30min including breaks?

 

[Blind Joe]

I would say your can of worms is still pretty small. Most PCF:ers be like

Spoiler

View attachment 308690

Just double checking before I post: Is the requirement still the you have at most 8 players, your rebuys are estimated to increase the chips in play by ~50%, and you want the tournament to end after 4h30min including breaks?

6—8 players seems to be the norm but we have had a couple more once or twice. And yes, the aim is to finish between 4—5hrs including breaks.

 

[Mr Winberg]

6 players means 240k. If you add 50% for rebuys it's 360. The 20BB rule says it should end around level 14 which is under 5 hours, so you should be fine with 6 or 7 players.

I don't think the last break is needed, there's probably only gonna be 2 or 3 players left if it hasn't already ended. If you really want a break, have it after the 8k/16k level and color up the T1000.

With 8 players, the math pushes it to level 15. If this is a problem, an easy way to solve it is to remove the first level if you are 8 or more. Or I would probably remove the second instead to get rid of the lopsided blinds.

Another way to shorten the tournament by a level (and at the same time make sure the the color-ups are performed at the correct time) is to merge levels 10 and 11 into a single 2500/5000 level, have the second break after level 7 to color up the hundos, and the third break after the new level 10 coloring up the T500.

 

[Blind Joe]

I've ordered samples of each set so that I can fully check the possible colour clashes. One thing I've thought about re T100 base is that more chips are needed to post blinds in each level (a bit like T5 base vs T25) and it goes from 1x5x4 rather than 1x4x5 which is potentially harder for players to calculate on the fly.

 

[Quicksilver-75]

With a nice big denom? Nope. Those colors would drive me nuts if the artwork was theme heavy.

 

[Mr Winberg]

One thing I've thought about re T100 base is that more chips are needed to post blinds in each level...

That's correct. I think 10 T100 per player is enough, I would definitely have 20 but I'm a bit weird, so 15 is perhaps good middle ground?

...and it goes from 1x5x4 rather than 1x4x5 which is potentially harder for players to calculate on the fly.

I dont think that's a problem, people calculate increments of 100 pretty easily. For example, 13 T100 is pretty easy to calculate, whereas when 13 T5 is harder on the fly.

It will be like when you have colored off the T25 in your current tournaments.

However, I've never played a T100 base, so perhaps someone else can chime in?

 

[Mr Winberg]

Here's what I would do (not that it matters).
T50k stacks cause it's a nice round number.
Starting with 100/200 then 200/400. Sure, it's a double, but since we have increased the nr of BBs per player to 250 we need to compensate.

6 players with 50% added as rebuys means 450k and should end around BB=20k. 8 players brings it closer to BB=30k.

The structure would otherwise be the same apart from breaks, I like coloring up asap when a denom isn't needed anymore.

Like your structure it should end after about 14 levels with few players otherwise 15. But without lopsided levels

If you get 10 players with 50% added in rebuys, that's 750k. The tournament should survive past the T1000 color-up, so there'll only be T5000 on the table. That's 150 chips, which is ok for heads up, just 7.5 stacks. That said, I'd probably get some cool t25000 plaques

Since I'm a weirdo the starting stacks would be 20/6/20/5, but a sane person would probably have 15/5/16/6, 15/5/11/7, or 10/4/12/7 or something like that.

 

[Blind Joe]

So my samples arrived today and I have to say that in the flesh the clash between the Casino Royale T25s and T5000s is horrendous. In fact it seems to manage to clash with both the T25 and the T500! So I'm pretty much resigned to not fixing my mixed set in which the T1000s are currently non denoms and the T5000s are the beige chips from the Three Colour Crown sister set.

I'm thinking the only way I could feasibly do so would be to use T1000s for rebuys instead of T5000s so that they aren't on the table at the same time as the T25s and just introducing T5000s at the first colour up.

On the other hand the Three Colour Crown has its own issue of the T25 and T1000 clashing pretty badly, which as discussed above could be fixed but only by changing my whole structure to a T100 base and potentiality having to purchase some plaques.

As an aside, while the colour scheme of the Three Colour Crown set is non standard I can probably cope with it but not that black with orange T25. I've seen a lot of chip pron on this site and a lot of non standard colours but I don't recall seeing many non green T25s. It makes my teeth itch!

On the plus side I love the crisp clean look of the T1s in both sets but since I only host tournaments I won't find much use for them!

 

[MoofPotter]

Lots of similar colors. Yes, would drive me nuts.

 

[Blind Joe]

It's a shame because I personally like the design and they are great to play with. 14g and actually feel like clay. I've ordered quite a few samples of other composite chips and they all feel very cheap and plastic-y in comparison.

 

[MaxB]

I'd be tilted

 

[Mr Winberg]

IMO, the three crown version of these chips look better than the casino royal.

I don't recall seeing many non green T25s. It makes my teeth itch!

This is a problem, because if you use green relabeled chips for the T25 you're gonna have to change the T100 as well, which means you'll be relabeling the two most plentiful denoms. Lots of work...

The easiest solution as I see it is still:

changing my whole structure to a T100 base

And regarding:

potentiality having to purchase some plaques.

I think you've stumbled across the solution here:

On the plus side I love the crisp clean look of the T1s in both sets but since I only host tournaments I won't find much use for them!

T1s with crisp clean looks plus some new labels and you got your T25000!!
(By the way, I thought all chips were "crisp" to you Brits? )

If going this route, you should change the structure to T60k, use the WSOP main event structure (with some levels removed or you'll have really short levels), that way the T25k will definitively see play, you can even have them in the starting stacks! MOAR CRISP CHIPS!!

 

[Blind Joe]

IMO, the three crown version of these chips look better than the casino royal.

I agree. They were my first choice when looking for my first chip set. Personally I like the clean geometric design on the label, the big clear denoms (useful for us fish lol), with the added bonus of not including a currency symbol.

This is a problem, because if you use green relabeled chips for the T25 you're gonna have to change the T100 as well, which means you'll be relabeling the two most plentiful denoms. Lots of work...

Tell me about it! Why have they done this?

The easiest solution as I see it is still:

And regarding:

I think you've stumbled across the solution here:

T1s with crisp clean looks plus some new labels and you got your T25000!!
(By the way, I thought all chips were "crisp" to you Brits? )

If going this route, you should change the structure to T60k, use the WSOP main event structure (with some levels removed or you'll have really short levels), that way the T25k will definitively see play, you can even have them in the starting stacks! MOAR CRISP CHIPS!!

I said up thread that buying chips was a can of worms. I've changed my mind. @Mr Winberg is a can of worms all by himself! Every conversation leads me further down the rabbit hole!

 

[Mr Winberg]

I said up thread that buying chips was a can of worms. I've changed my mind. @Mr Winberg is a can of worms all by himself! Every conversation leads me further down the rabbit hole!

Now let's talk boat chips...

 

[Chyros]

I've got a bunch of these crown chips, I really like them personally, both the look and feel. The quality of the moulding on some of the batches is terrible, lots of ridges (bad enough that you have to shave them). Admittedly, I don't own any of the REAL clashers, though.

I suspect mine were made by a different manufacturer. They use far more edge markings, six to eight sets per chip, rather than the three in these pictures.

 

[Blind Joe]

Starting to think that reverting back to a T5 base might be the sanest solution. No clashes, I already have a full set, and only 4 denoms required for a T2K 200BB tournament if my reckoning if right (ie no T1K needed).

Edit: thinking about the later rounds a barrel or two of T1000s would probably come in handy.

 

[Mr Winberg]

...I already have a full set, and only 4 denoms required...

Arguments such as these have no place at PCF.

I vote T60k like at WSOP ME with white T25k! Or the T40k without T25k.

 

[Blind Joe]

Update: I fleshed out my Casino Royale set with 3 rolls of T1000s (beige) to replace the temporary pink non denoms, and a roll each of T5000s (teal) and T25000s (pink) which I swapped the labels on to resolve the colour clash between green (which is very bluish) and teal.

I'm finally feeling pretty content with my tournament set, consisting of:

160 x T25
120 x T100 (plus a few spares to fill up the case)
50 x T500
75 x T1K
25 x T5K
25 x T25K (just for fun)
1 x T100K (because why not)

20 x rebuy chips (T5s)
10 x bounty chips

Also bought a couple of Modiano decks to see what they were like. Since my SSC is blue I went with green and red.

I still have a case (and then some) of Casino Royales from T5—T100 that I'm not sure what to do with.

 

[Chyros]

Honestly, that looks great! This set has great colours and edge markings, and I really like the design of the faces too .

 

[Mr Winberg]

and a roll each of T5000s (teal) and T25000s (pink) which I swapped the labels on to resolve the colour clash between green (which is very bluish) and teal.

Great job! That solved the problem!

I still have a case (and then some) of Casino Royales from T5—T100 that I'm not sure what to do with.

Might as well keep them. You're not gonna get much if you sell them and the T25 and T100 could be useful if you ever host for a larger crowd. Also, you can mix it up and throw in a T5 base tourney every now and then.