Laser milling (1 Viewer)

Kid_Eastwood

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Hi,

Just wanted to share this. A long time member of the French forum Club Poker just posted it today. I found this spectacular. So I just wanted to share it here :

https://www.clubpoker.net/forum-poker/topic/240670-retirer-un-stamp-sur-un-jeton/

With this technique(with a lowered power) it's even possible to mill plastic roulette chips (ex : some B&G or Matsui directly having the design printed on the chip, not on a label).

Kid.
 
I can’t read any of it but I lol’d at this. Time for CICs

61E9AB07-2E5B-4B5F-ABAB-B62F69357C76.jpeg
 
Seems to do a pretty nice job, especially on the plastic chip. I'd be worried about the burnt look on the Paulson, but if that's possible to clean then I'm sure it would be a good option for some people.
 
Seems to do a pretty nice job, especially on the plastic chip. I'd be worried about the burnt look on the Paulson, but if that's possible to clean then I'm sure it would be a good option for some people.
But with a label on top it should not be visible anymore I think. The burn does not seem to expand outside the recessed that is created.
 
But with a label on top it should not be visible anymore I think. The burn does not seem to expand outside the recessed that is created.
True with a label on top it would cover the center so it probably wouldn't be an issue at that point.
 
Years ago on Chiptalk there was a guy who was laser etching chips. I believe he did a couple sets on faux clays. I never really cared for them but I don't remember any burning at all. Wish I had pics!
Yup, I had a set of FC and they turned out great; sorry can't find any pics.
My friend had a set of ASM (now CPC) laser etched and they also turned out perfectly.
 
View attachment 1173264

This was my best attempt. No burnings at all, but no depth either...That was done with a fibre laser. Tested this for @Santa123
Okay, I am officially obsessed. I need to find some faux clay chips. I vaguely remember these years and years and years ago. I think you can make a great tournament set out of these and wouldn't really worry. Too bad about them
 
I have some experience with laser cutters (but not with lasering chips specifically). Currently my CO2 laser is in storage and won't have access to it for at least a year. Suggestions for those experimenting:

1. Your first attempt is never your best. You have to dial in the power, speed, and focus of the laser. First attempt will either be too light or will burn/char your material.

2. Sometimes 2 or 3 light passes is better than 1 heavy pass. You can get more depth with each pass with less risk of burning/warping your material.

3. If you etch a design or letters, you can get more definition by wiping in an acrylic paint and quickly wiping off excess from surface of the material so that the paint remains only in the burned away part. You might be able to achieve a hot stamp type look this way.

4. Be careful! Burning plastic creates toxic fumes (I imagine even with real casino clays that still have plastics in it). Make sure you laser has either sufficient air filtration or use a fan to evacuate fumes from your laser to the outdoors. And wear eye protection. You can get laser safety glasses on Amazon, but make sure it is rated for the wavelength of light that your laser uses. It just takes a split second of reflected laser light to blind you.
 
Years ago on Chiptalk there was a guy who was laser etching chips. I believe he did a couple sets on faux clays. I never really cared for them but I don't remember any burning at all. Wish I had pics!
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/users/jeff.8/page-24
Here is the faux clay set I had lasered. The guy on Chiptalk that did these was from Rockford, IL and is no longer around. He was working someplace that he had access to their laser.
 
I have some experience with laser cutters (but not with lasering chips specifically). Currently my CO2 laser is in storage and won't have access to it for at least a year. Suggestions for those experimenting:

1. Your first attempt is never your best. You have to dial in the power, speed, and focus of the laser. First attempt will either be too light or will burn/char your material.

2. Sometimes 2 or 3 light passes is better than 1 heavy pass. You can get more depth with each pass with less risk of burning/warping your material.

3. If you etch a design or letters, you can get more definition by wiping in an acrylic paint and quickly wiping off excess from surface of the material so that the paint remains only in the burned away part. You might be able to achieve a hot stamp type look this way.

4. Be careful! Burning plastic creates toxic fumes (I imagine even with real casino clays that still have plastics in it). Make sure you laser has either sufficient air filtration or use a fan to evacuate fumes from your laser to the outdoors. And wear eye protection. You can get laser safety glasses on Amazon, but make sure it is rated for the wavelength of light that your laser uses. It just takes a split second of reflected laser light to blind you.
Can you apply some kind of masking agent on the chip, laser it, then apply the paint, then wash/peel/otherwise remove the mask, leaving a clean laser engraved filled chip?
 
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/users/jeff.8/page-24
Here is the faux clay set I had lasered. The guy on Chiptalk that did these was from Rockford, IL and is no longer around. He was working someplace that he had access to their laser.
Looks pretty good! I do wonder what it would look like with a bit of gold acrylic paint (like a hot stamp) wiped on and off quickly. On smooth plastics, you can often get the acrylic to adhere to the recessed and roughened lasered part and (if you are quick or use a light solvent) get it off the not lasered part. It would eventually wear off..not unlike a hot stamp.
 
Can you apply some kind of masking agent on the chip, laser it, then apply the paint, then wash/peel/otherwise remove the mask, leaving a clean laser engraved filled chip?

I have not lasered a chip, but I have masked and cut/etched other materials (acrylic, HDPE, wood, metal) and in general, yes, the principle applies. You will get less scorching of the material and less staining from smoke as the masking takes the stain and scorch. In terms of using it as a stencil for painting - it will work only if both the material is smooth and you are using a good masking tape or sheet. If the chip is not smooth (e.g. textured) or if you use cheap masking tape, you will get bleed. A little bleed may not matter much (hot stamps are not perfect either).

Wish I had my laser and I could experiment both ways. I have been wanting to upgrade to a better laser...maybe this is the time?
 
So...having just posted in @louBdub 's retirement thread about lasers, and having seen @Josh Kifer post in that same thread that he just got a laser, I decided to check and see if a laser thread already exists. Not only does it exist, but @louBdub already posted in it about experimenting with lasers! @Josh Kifer already posted here 1.5 years ago he got a laser! And worse, I, myself, had already posted in this thread and had forgotten about it! WTF!?!?

Well, to add something new to this thread, I went looking for a a photo of my sad little K40 Chinese Laser. Found this Valentine's appropriate one. My laser is still in storage for a few more months. I am thinking of upgrading to a Gweike laser - anyone have one? Do you recommend it?

I was spoiled by access to industrial lasers years ago, but that's out of my price range for a hobby.

1707873817925.png
 

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