I 'd invite my original mentor, @Psypher1000 , to give me any negative criticism
These are my opinion's and rules only, not facts or universal truths. And remember, you asked for it. So with that in mind...
I don't really have anything negative to say about your inlay. Maybe the denoms could have been bigger. Maybe. Moving on...
My second-greatest chipping commandment is "Thou shalt not make tri-colored quarter pies." You don't have any quarter pies in this set, so there was no opportunity for breakage, but...
Takeaway 1: You made the cash 20 with a base green chip. This breaks my #3 commandment in chipping - Thou shalt not make a 20 with a green (or, if in California, purple) base. Casual poker has enough opportunities for slip-ups before even thinking about angle-shooting or straight-up cheating. Introducing a base green 20 into the game instead of the normal 25 is a real good way to have mis-bets. Sure, verbal action is binding, so if someone announces 50 instead of 40 and tosses in two greens, they aren't out anything. If they just toss in the chips leading out, though, then 40 it is.
As with dice in games, barring the entire set being made for artisitic purposes, I firmly believe chips and chip sets should focus on function over form. From that perspective, there's just no good reason to have a green 20.
Takeaway 2: You state your cash set is light grey/1/5/20/charcoal. I say your set is actually 1/5/10/20/50 (and, in fact, that's how I have them displayed in my chip cabinet, with the others in a different cabinet). Line them up and you'll immediately see why. If that's a set, then the denom progression isn't efficient. But since you say it's not, then we have to examine the cash set as you declared it. 212/3x3 stripe/3x3 stripe/3x3 stripe/4x3 stripe. I'm actually okay with the 4 stripe NCV, and while I'd generally prefer to see the top denomination declared just to eliminate any possibility of someone trying to cash it out for more than its' worth, for your collection of chips as a whole I think it makes sense. The bigger curiosity to me is the 212 frac. I have no problem with the frac being non-denom, but either make it a solid, a 2x3 stripe, or a 3x3 stripe. The 212 pattern there is just sticks out since it's the only one that really breaks the stripe pattern and there's no significant progression until the top end.
Takeaway 3: For tournament sets I'm a huge fan of consistency in spot pattern across the spread, or, if using progression, then using a very simple spot progression throughout. The chips you call your tournament set...don't really have that. What's worse - they tease it with the first two denom's having a matching pattern (a pattern which matches the predominant pattern in your cash set - something I also don't recommend), and then switch it at the 100. Then two more matching, and a switch at the non-denom. This is unnecessary and frustrating to my brain, not to mention more expensive than necessary - sticking with the 4xU pattern that you used at the top end would have saved you a bit of coin if used throughout the set.
Takeaway 4: The tourney denoms. Eh? I mean, technically they work and they're no more strange than the more common 25/100/500/1k progression. You stick with a 4x/5x multiplier throughout, save for the 50 to 100 progression which is little different than the 500/1k progression. So from a mechanical perspective it's no better or worse than the more common progressions. But again - function over form. Why? Looking at the tournament set in a vacuum, what's the purpose? You're only making more work for your players who may not be used to such a breakdown, and for the tournament director since someone's going to have to come up with a seperate blind structure for that chip progression rather than using pre-made, widely-available blind structures that are proven. It's simply unnecessary. Perhaps there's some historical link to the predominant historical coins of Athens? If so, great. I'd prefer to see those made as NCV's or otherwise indicated as one-offs and not for use as a wagering tool, however, rather than part of a set that is intended for table use as this one seems to be.
With all that said, my #1 custom chipping commandment is this: "It's your money so get what YOU want - just make damn well sure that you actually want it." Ultimately I think you did that. And as a whole I think the sets make a fine combined first entry in your custom chipping journey. As long as they don't cause any problems with your players or inefficiencies while running your games, then rock on.