Chip condition and pricing (1 Viewer)

Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Messages
123
Reaction score
19
Location
South Georgia
Getting ready to start buying chips, but need to make sure I understand grades correctly so I know what I am getting.

Can anyone point me the a guide as to the common grades or conditions are in. I have read the one that is on chipguide but people here seem to use a different system, using Very Good and Acceptable.

Also, assume the chips are to had at a certain price mint/near mint, what precentage of the new price for used chips is common?

Thanks as always
 
Condition is just one component. Manufacturer, mold, denomination, availability, quantity, colors, spot pattern,and desirability all play a major role in chip pricing, as well. There really isn't a hard formula that can be applied.
 
Condition is just one component. Manufacturer, mold, denomination, availability, quantity, colors, spot pattern,and desirability all play a major role in chip pricing, as well. There really isn't a hard formula that can be applied.


I figured that much. Don't mind playing with used chips, I see that as more character... Just like to know that I can save more than a few bucks, because that means more chips!

Still like to know what the difference between Acceptable, very good and mint is.
 
I've not seen the 'acceptable' term used around here. Typically, it usually falls into one of these categories:

mint/new/uncirculated
near-mint condition
excellent condition
good condition
casino used condition (often in combination with "good" or "worn")
wafers
 
I've not seen the 'acceptable' term used around here. Typically, it usually falls into one of these categories:

mint/new/uncirculated
near-mint condition
excellent condition
good condition
casino used condition (often in combination with "good" or "worn")
wafers

.
We're does edge standing figure in to those grades, I.e when does the chip lose its ability to stand on edge?

I must have seen acceptable on eBay.

Thanks for the replies
 
If a chip won't stand on edge, I personally would not consider it in 'good' condition. It would logically fall into a 'worn' condition by definition.
 
Regardless of the specific adjectives used to describe the chips you're thinking about buying, I would strongly recommend pictures to describe the condition so you know exactly what you're getting.
Yeah I learned pretty quickly to ignore the words and go straight to the pictures. Uncirculated is the only word that means anything to me.
 
Personally, I hate the "mint" descriptor and I've seen it completely abused. If you are selling chips that look brand new, say they are in excellent condition and post a shit ton of pictures
 
Personally, I hate the "mint" descriptor and I've seen it completely abused. If you are selling chips that look brand new, say they are in excellent condition and post a shit ton of pictures

I consider mint = new = unused = uncirculated, not handled except to remove from their boxes for photos. Never shuffled, played with, or oiled.

I consider near-mint to mean chips that have been shuffled and/or played with but still have sharp edges.

Membership seems to be divided as to the exact meaning of the term mint. The best thing you can do is to ask the seller because the difference is not always noticeable in photos.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ovo
I consider mint = new = unused = uncirculated, not handled except to remove from their boxes for photos. Never shuffled, played with, or oiled.

I consider near-mint to mean chips that have been shuffled and/or played with but still have sharp edges.
Same here.
 
Welcome to singles collecting! If you're used to guides & grading scales such as what are commonly associated with baseball cards, comics, trading card games, etc, it's not that simple here. There is no Beckett, no Scrye, no TCGPlayer.com, no comics annual that encompasses pretty much everything that's available. There are some guides out there, sure, but because of gambling's somewhat clandestine nature, the sheer scope of casinos nation-wide (let alone worldwide), and various other factors, there's simply no central, gospel resource for all of chipendom. With that out of the way...

Can anyone point me the a guide as to the common grades or conditions are in.
For that, I would point you to the Casino Collectible Association's grading categories, listed here: http://www.ccgtcc.com/education/conditions.pdf

These are the conditions that the Casino Collectibles Association (CCA), as well as the two most-referenced price guides (The Chip Rack for Nevada chips, and The Official U.S. Casino Chip Price Guide for many other states, sans California and Arizona), use. The notable deviation is that TCR doesn't require chips in "New" condition to never have been used in games. In other words, chips that have been lightlyused in home games or shuffled a bit might still be considered "New" condition according to the TCR.

Along with this, I would encourage you & others to remove "mint" from the chip description vocabulary. That can apply to printed media such as cards and comics, but applying such a term to a chip is extremely problematic since chips are more art than science, & more manual than automated labor.

Regardless of verbal descriptions, pictures are critical - and pictures of the edges are no less critical than those of both faces. Additionally, get actual pictures whenever you can rather than scans. Many scanners - particularly those that are smaller or part of an all-in-one printer - don't capture fluorescent colors correctly.

Still like to know what the difference between Acceptable, very good and mint is.
I haven't seen "acceptable" used anywhere re: chip condition; Very Good could vary from person to person; Mint should only be used when discussing chips from The Mint casino, not chip condition. When in doubt, refer to pictures.

We're does edge standing figure in to those grades
New and Slightly Used chips should all stand on edge. Some Average chips may stand on edge, many won't. Most Well-Used chips will not stand on edge.

Also, assume the chips are to had at a certain price mint/near mint, what precentage of the new price for used chips is common?
That's a much more difficult question to answer. First, know this & write it in mirror-image so you can see it whenever you look in a mirror:

PRICE GUIDES ARE ONLY A SINGLE POINT OF REFERENCE

In theory, those price guides follow trending data of chip sales from year to year. In reality, there are tens of thousands of chips, and only so many of them that have values that are actually worth tracking. There's also no single entity that creates guides for chips from the entire nation, let alone the world, and the OUSCPG - while still a phenomenal resource for determining which issue a chip is - hasn't been updated since 2009 & according to James Campiglia won't be updated for the foreseeable future. The other major (in terms of quantity of chips it covers) price guide used - Armen Phaender's California Guide - is updated regularly but often times those minor, intra-year updates include more chip-related content (new specimens found & added) or spelling/listing error updates rather than price-related adjustments.

So, in addition to these price guides that receive - at best - significant pricing updates about once a year, you also need to take into account recent eBay sales, prices you see at conventions, prices you see on The Chip Board, prices you see at Spinetti's, etc, look at the conditions of those sales/offerings, and compare the sold/offer prices to that which you see in the price guides. Generally speaking, chips can be found at 40-65% of the mid-range price listed in the guides if you look hard enough & are patient. The more valuable or more rare the chip in quesiton, the closer to 100% of that upper range you're likely to have to pay. Also, don't hesitate to make an offer to someone even if their prices are listed as X on someone's forum post, particularly if you're buying multiple chips.

Another thing to remember is that TCR lists a price range for a specific grade. If the chip you're considering is above or below the listed, anticipated grade then a corresponding adjustment should also be applied to the price. Don't ask how much a standard adjustment should be. It's all dependent upon chip, location, scarcity, condition variation, etc.

So, take all of that into consideration, make a determination about what you think a fair value for a specific chip is, and then either pull the trigger on a sale or go make an offer.

Finally, if you're serious about collecting singles I'd highly recommend you join the CCA (you can read more about it here) and peruse The Chip Board daily. Although TCB is woefully outdated as a forum platform, that's where most of the long-time singles collectors still congregate and post their non-auction sales. Many will advertise their eBay auctions there, too. I can find a good deal there at least once a week. And there's not been a better time to get into singles collecting than now. The market is quite down vs. ten years ago and many long time collectors are starting to liquidate their holdings.

Good luck, TAKE YOUR TIME, and happy hunting!
 
Last edited:

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom