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Hello, I should have written about this topic a long time ago, but I never seemed to have the time.
It all started with this thread, and I just couldn’t let it go.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/is-it-normal-for-kem-cards-to-cup-like-this.106931/
For several weeks, I was reading all sorts of information about cellulose acetate
I hope that someone will try this method as well and maybe improve the results! As the title suggests, this is about flattening cards, specifically made of cellulose acetate.
Modiano Platinum, made from cellulose acetate. I know the unfortunate story surrounding one of our sellers (Desjgn), but that’s not the focus right now.
I think Kem has a similar story when it comes to "quality."
If you’ve received warped cards and it bothers you, you can try to return them. But what if you’ve already opened the package and played with them a bit? Often, cards start bending after being unboxed. Sometimes the bend is significant, and sometimes it’s barely noticeable.
But why does this happen? What causes it? Simply put, it’s bad luck. Humidity and heat affect your bent cards, making them temporarily flat.
They were just made that way.
I talked to my wife’s sister, who works at the Polish factory Trefl, which produces high-quality cards and games. She mentioned that card materials are often supplied in rolls (this is much cheaper for manufacturers), and cards made from these rolls often come out slightly warped. However, manufacturers don’t see this as a defect because the product is still functional for its intended purpose.
I’ve had a similar experience. I received warped cards and ended up contacting a major Modiano dealer in Italy. He promised to inquire with the factory about the issue. He was surprised that people thought the cards were defective just because they were bent. But the situation didn’t improve, and it seems the seller just sent a sample of better, flatter cards from another batch. And that was that. Things didn’t get better afterward.
I haven’t dealt with Kem cards, simply because they’re nearly impossible to find at a reasonable price in Europe. All the cellulose acetate decks I’ve ever had (Modiano Platinum), had a slight bend. This “issue” has never prevented me from enjoying the cards, and I rate them 9.5 out of 10. But it’s frustrating to have only two manufacturers of cellulose acetate cards, and neither can provide consistently flat cards.
From the reviews about Kem, it seems this happens occasionally. With Modiano, it’s almost always the case, though their warp is often so minor that my home players didn’t even notice it until I pointed it out. For example, no one is bothered by a slight bend in quality paper cards.
But if Modiano cards cost €10 per deck, Kem cards cost a hefty €30–35 per deck. That’s crazy!
One day, I came across this video by Hobbyphilic on YouTube.
At 3:13, he shared a wonderful story about his father’s cards (perhaps you can fix your mistake using this! ).
Car interiors can get very hot in the sun due to the greenhouse effect. On a hot day, the temperature inside a car can rise much higher than outside.
Approximate figures:
I had six warped decks that I could experiment with. I ran many tests and am describing the method that worked for me:
1
Take a piece of aluminum and cut it into a shape that fits, bending it to match the curve of the cards (1–1.5 mm).
Avoid certain clamps: some have a central groove that won’t press your cards evenly, and this shape will transfer to the cards! (I tried different materials for the plates, including glass, but aluminum worked best.)
Submerge the cards in water. I did this simply to make them stick together, avoid slipping, and prevent air pockets. Water transfers heat to the center of the deck much faster than air.
Stack the cards between the plates as evenly as possible—this is important (more on that below). Be sure to use two cut cards or jokers between the cards and aluminum to avoid scratching the paint. Compress the stack with two construction clamps. Don’t use more—two are enough to give the cards the desired curve in the opposite direction.
Heat water to 55°C, no less but no more than 60°C, as the cards could become too soft and get damaged! Submerge the stack in the water.
Wait. Let the cards heat evenly for 15 minutes. If the water cools too quickly (below 50°C), I simply added hot water from the kettle to maintain the 55°C range for at least 10 minutes.
Remove the stack and let it cool completely in the clamps.
Dry the cards with a soft towel to avoid scratching the paint. Essentially, just remove excess water and moisture.
Some cards may appear warped initially due to excess humidity. (At first, I was upset that it didn’t work, but as the cards dried, everything was fine.)
Leave them to dry for a day.
It all started with this thread, and I just couldn’t let it go.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/is-it-normal-for-kem-cards-to-cup-like-this.106931/
For several weeks, I was reading all sorts of information about cellulose acetate
I hope that someone will try this method as well and maybe improve the results! As the title suggests, this is about flattening cards, specifically made of cellulose acetate.
Modiano Platinum, made from cellulose acetate. I know the unfortunate story surrounding one of our sellers (Desjgn), but that’s not the focus right now.
I think Kem has a similar story when it comes to "quality."
If you’ve received warped cards and it bothers you, you can try to return them. But what if you’ve already opened the package and played with them a bit? Often, cards start bending after being unboxed. Sometimes the bend is significant, and sometimes it’s barely noticeable.
But why does this happen? What causes it? Simply put, it’s bad luck. Humidity and heat affect your bent cards, making them temporarily flat.
They were just made that way.
I talked to my wife’s sister, who works at the Polish factory Trefl, which produces high-quality cards and games. She mentioned that card materials are often supplied in rolls (this is much cheaper for manufacturers), and cards made from these rolls often come out slightly warped. However, manufacturers don’t see this as a defect because the product is still functional for its intended purpose.
I’ve had a similar experience. I received warped cards and ended up contacting a major Modiano dealer in Italy. He promised to inquire with the factory about the issue. He was surprised that people thought the cards were defective just because they were bent. But the situation didn’t improve, and it seems the seller just sent a sample of better, flatter cards from another batch. And that was that. Things didn’t get better afterward.
I haven’t dealt with Kem cards, simply because they’re nearly impossible to find at a reasonable price in Europe. All the cellulose acetate decks I’ve ever had (Modiano Platinum), had a slight bend. This “issue” has never prevented me from enjoying the cards, and I rate them 9.5 out of 10. But it’s frustrating to have only two manufacturers of cellulose acetate cards, and neither can provide consistently flat cards.
From the reviews about Kem, it seems this happens occasionally. With Modiano, it’s almost always the case, though their warp is often so minor that my home players didn’t even notice it until I pointed it out. For example, no one is bothered by a slight bend in quality paper cards.
But if Modiano cards cost €10 per deck, Kem cards cost a hefty €30–35 per deck. That’s crazy!
One day, I came across this video by Hobbyphilic on YouTube.
Car interiors can get very hot in the sun due to the greenhouse effect. On a hot day, the temperature inside a car can rise much higher than outside.
Approximate figures:
- If the outside temperature is 30°C, the car interior can reach 50–60°C in 30 minutes.
- At 35°C, the interior can heat up to 65–70°C in 30–60 minutes.
The Method
Essentially, the method is similar to flattening poker chips: apply the desired shape, reach the necessary temperature and pressure, and let it cool.I had six warped decks that I could experiment with. I ran many tests and am describing the method that worked for me:
1
Take a piece of aluminum and cut it into a shape that fits, bending it to match the curve of the cards (1–1.5 mm).
Avoid certain clamps: some have a central groove that won’t press your cards evenly, and this shape will transfer to the cards! (I tried different materials for the plates, including glass, but aluminum worked best.)
Submerge the cards in water. I did this simply to make them stick together, avoid slipping, and prevent air pockets. Water transfers heat to the center of the deck much faster than air.
Stack the cards between the plates as evenly as possible—this is important (more on that below). Be sure to use two cut cards or jokers between the cards and aluminum to avoid scratching the paint. Compress the stack with two construction clamps. Don’t use more—two are enough to give the cards the desired curve in the opposite direction.
Heat water to 55°C, no less but no more than 60°C, as the cards could become too soft and get damaged! Submerge the stack in the water.
Wait. Let the cards heat evenly for 15 minutes. If the water cools too quickly (below 50°C), I simply added hot water from the kettle to maintain the 55°C range for at least 10 minutes.
Remove the stack and let it cool completely in the clamps.
Dry the cards with a soft towel to avoid scratching the paint. Essentially, just remove excess water and moisture.
Some cards may appear warped initially due to excess humidity. (At first, I was upset that it didn’t work, but as the cards dried, everything was fine.)
Leave them to dry for a day.
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