-
This site contains affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase after clicking a link, Poker Chip Forum may receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!
My Man Cave Remodel (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tommy
- Start date
OP
OP
Friend of mine gave me a few bundles of metal studs and track for free. We used it on the interior wall that separates the laundry/utility room from the finished side. We used wood/metal mix in certain areas where I needed better support. Ex. Back wall of the wet bar to hang the wall cabinets.
We did the shower with wood to make mounting the diverter and copper pipe easier.
There a reason you're using copper? I use copper for next to nothing anymore
OP
OP
The rest of the house is copper, why change things now.
Plus my dad prefers to work with it. I do like PEX but I don't have the tools. CPVC gets brittle over time, and you have to wait hours to pressure test it. Then I have to transition to copper in many places. Unnecessary leak points. If I was building all new, I'd use PEX. I stopped buying shutoff valves from Lowes and Home Depot too. Nothing but made in China junk. I go to the Plumbing supply and get Apollo brand brass ball valves.
CPVC should never be used for anything plumbing relatedThe rest of the house is copper, why change things now.
I certainly don't miss copper... mind boggling the amount of time PEX saves
Double check and make sure you local code allows the copper flex, I know some municipalities around here don't (mine didn't).
Feel free to double check IF you've gone and gotten a permit for this job and will end up getting inspected (I'd like to assume you haven't).
If this is something you are doing yourself/having done quietly do not, I repeat DO NOT do something silly like calling the building department and inquire about what does and does not fit the local code unless you want to risk your bill skyrocketing astronomically (YMMV depending on your states regulations)
If this is something you are doing yourself/having done quietly do not, I repeat DO NOT do something silly like calling the building department and inquire about what does and does not fit the local code unless you want to risk your bill skyrocketing astronomically (YMMV depending on your states regulations)
Chicken Rob
Full House
Pex tools are worth the cost for the labor savings alone. It also makes changing things later effortless. I LOVE pex.
Easy peasy crimp and squeezy.
Easy peasy crimp and squeezy.
OP
OP
I've been considering this all morning. Amazon sells a nice Apollo Pex Tool set for under $100.
http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-PEX-Multi-Head-Crimp-Tool/dp/B003JN7314
Chicken Rob
Full House
keep in mind there are a couple different types of pex connectors, and that pipe runs in different IDs than expected, and is different from the different types of pex. for example, I use the crimp ring style, and the equivalent to 3/4 copper is closer to 1" pex. I personally prefer the crimp style because you only need a single crimp tool, and any cheap pex pipe cutter will work. To take off the rings, just use a pare of diagonal cutters.
The other nice thing about pex is you can color code the pipe runs.
The other nice thing about pex is you can color code the pipe runs.
Mental Nomad
Full House
I was unaware of PEX until this thread, so thanks, guys.
I haven't done plumbing in years, and even the most recent was repairs, not installation... but I'm already a big fan of PEX.
The Apollo set seems, but does not say, it's for PEX tube, not PEX pipe. That Apollo line catalog includes that tool set and include PEX tubing.
Apollo PEX Catalog
I haven't done plumbing in years, and even the most recent was repairs, not installation... but I'm already a big fan of PEX.
The Apollo set seems, but does not say, it's for PEX tube, not PEX pipe. That Apollo line catalog includes that tool set and include PEX tubing.
PEX Information site.PEX Information said:
Apollo PEX Catalog
The only way to go. If you get nervous about possible leaks, don't. Out of thousands of PEX fittings I have installed the only leaks I've ever had are on rings I forgot to clamp
Chicken Rob
Full House
I'm not a plumber, but I learned some basics to install my water filtration system. I have no problems with my PEX. My threaded joints were a pain to get leak free, but the PEX was a piece of cake, and holding perfect after 7 years.
Also, PEX is effortless to cut in and change things.
Also, PEX is effortless to cut in and change things.
OP
OP
Doing some last minute drywall and paint work in the utility/laundry room before we start the plumbing this Mon and Tues.
Finishing that corner behind the door and hitting all the screws. One more coat on the corner. After that some sanding then I will rolling on a coat of primer and one coat of semi-gloss white.
Drywall to the left of the furnace is not attached yet. It will slide out so I can run the PEX to the wetbar.
Painted out the area where the upflush pump will sit and the water heater will be moved too. I hate painting around things. Will do a second coat tomorrow.
Finishing that corner behind the door and hitting all the screws. One more coat on the corner. After that some sanding then I will rolling on a coat of primer and one coat of semi-gloss white.
Drywall to the left of the furnace is not attached yet. It will slide out so I can run the PEX to the wetbar.
Painted out the area where the upflush pump will sit and the water heater will be moved too. I hate painting around things.
Will do a second coat tomorrow.
Mental Nomad
Full House
+1 for smart.
Wait..you're doing all this finishing in a laundry/utility room? Who the hell is going to notice that you have a dirty floor around the furnace? 
Or does it just make you feel better cause the laundry is there and there is something "dirty" about bringing clean clothes out of a dirty room. Or is it like in my case where my wife says she won't go into the "shithole" to do our laundry?
So you are finishing it to get some help with the laundry? I gotcha. Smart! Just curious. Looks great BTW.
Or does it just make you feel better cause the laundry is there and there is something "dirty" about bringing clean clothes out of a dirty room. Or is it like in my case where my wife says she won't go into the "shithole" to do our laundry?So you are finishing it to get some help with the laundry? I gotcha. Smart! Just curious. Looks great BTW.
OP
OP
Wait..you're doing all this finishing in a laundry/utility room? Who the hell is going to notice that you have a dirty floor around the furnace?
So you are finishing it to get some help with the laundry? I gotcha. Smart! Just curious. Looks great BTW.
LOL. It's a decent size room. About 300sq ft. The wife wanted an area to do her crafts and stuff.
(possibly while doing the laundry!) The is no room in the poker room. Going to put an area rug or remnant in there too. Make it cozy for her.
I'm in there a lot too though. We have 2 of those Gladiator storage shelving units, my work bench and a slop sink in there. I will be adding an apt size refrigerator soon. My wet bar refrigerator doesn't keep my beer cold enough plus I wanted an ice maker down there too.
Mental Nomad
Full House
Every time you lie down to do something like check a pilot light, you'll appreciate the painted floor.
OP
OP
Maybe this will help give an idea of the layout. The wet bar sink drain will run along the wall behind the furnace at the 1/4" per foot slope. (not as sloped as shown above)
Mental Nomad
Full House
No toilet?
And if you can't have much of a grade down from the shower to the pump, make sure that run is very short. Otherwise it will tend to fill up to the drain between bursts of pumping.
On the long wet bar run - make sure you get a full 1/4" per foot and that it's supported. I had a long run like that in a house I bought; the PVC would sag when filled with water, which made a pool where water collected. The sink would then drain very slow until it got full enough to overflow past the sagging - the drain would back up easily while the pipe was full. Eventually, enough water would go down to clear the sag and get over the hump into the sump with the pump - and then the pump would suck it all dry. It was weird; sometimes, if you poured quickly, the sink would fill with an inch of water before the pump kicked on and sucked it all out, almost like a remote garbage disposal.
The shower / toilet didn't have that problem, because the sump with the pump was directly on the other side of the wall from them, but I'd hate to have a flat run between them and the pump.
And if you can't have much of a grade down from the shower to the pump, make sure that run is very short. Otherwise it will tend to fill up to the drain between bursts of pumping.
On the long wet bar run - make sure you get a full 1/4" per foot and that it's supported. I had a long run like that in a house I bought; the PVC would sag when filled with water, which made a pool where water collected. The sink would then drain very slow until it got full enough to overflow past the sagging - the drain would back up easily while the pipe was full. Eventually, enough water would go down to clear the sag and get over the hump into the sump with the pump - and then the pump would suck it all dry. It was weird; sometimes, if you poured quickly, the sink would fill with an inch of water before the pump kicked on and sucked it all out, almost like a remote garbage disposal.
The shower / toilet didn't have that problem, because the sump with the pump was directly on the other side of the wall from them, but I'd hate to have a flat run between them and the pump.
Mental Nomad
Full House
Just saw your floor plan - I don't understand where the pump sits, or where the stack is. And what about the drains from the washer & slop sink?
OP
OP
The toilet is there. It goes directly into the pump. The shower drain line is short. Its a 2" line and about 5ft. long.
The washer drains into the slop sink. The slop sink drain has 2" cast iron trap that goes into the cast iron sewer line (all original) before it exits the house. (A main sewer check valve was installed about 5 years before I bought the house.)
I marked up the layout to show the stack, pump and sewer line.
The washer drains into the slop sink. The slop sink drain has 2" cast iron trap that goes into the cast iron sewer line (all original) before it exits the house. (A main sewer check valve was installed about 5 years before I bought the house.)
I marked up the layout to show the stack, pump and sewer line.
Mental Nomad
Full House
Good - the toilet wasn't on your plumbing sketch.
I presume you're having the pump kick it to height, through a check valve, and then you're going maintain the correct downgrade from there until you reach the stack, right?
I don't know your overhead clearance, but it doesn't look to me like a straight run; I'd hate to have a lot of 45 degree turns and the requisite clean-outs... you running over the furnace?
And with an ejector line that long, do you need it vented?
My build had the bathroom adjacent adjacent to the utility room, which was on an outside wall and had the main stack in it. So much less to worry about. I hope actual expert chime in...
OP
OP
Correct. The check valve is actually in the elbow that they provide. This model has a very good pump distance.
I am only going 7 feet high and 5 feet horizontally before it dumps into a 1.5" gravity feed drain to the main stack.
To my surprise, it's only 3/4" coming out of the pump. The manual says I can use either 3/4" or 1" to continue the run after I use the supplied 90 check valve and 15" 3/4" flex pipe.
I am going over the I-beam and duct work in a joist bay just in front of the furnace. I will be adding 2 x 90 sweeps to the line before the 1.5" drain.
Only the pump itself needs to be vented.
Create an account or login to comment
You must be a member in order to leave a comment
Create account
Create an account and join our community. It's easy!
Log in
Already have an account? Log in here.
