My Man Cave Remodel (6 Viewers)

[Ronoh]

Looks good to me.

Don't use PEX for the discharge... you'll want to use Schedule 40 PVC. Also better off using two 45s (back to back) rather than 90s for better flow as it's full of gritty material. I would recommend doing your really dirty business in your other bathrooms whenever possible and never flush anything besides your business and toilet paper in this one (no paper towels, etc).

Will the extension between the commode and pump have natural fall? If it's a straight shot I'd raise the pot 3/8 - 1/2"

 

[Tommy]

Cool!

Don't use PEX for the discharge... you'll want to use Schedule 40 PVC.

Definitely.

Also better off using two 45s (back to back) rather than 90s for better flow as it's full of gritty material.

Will do.

Will the extension between the commode and pump have natural fall?

Yeah. The toilet is sitting on top of the Tyroc sub-floor and finished floor. The pump is directly on the concrete floor.

 

[Tommy]

Waiting for the primer to dry. 45 mins to go. Lol. Then the topcoat goes on before I call it a night.

 

[stocky]

Looking good. I wish basements were a regular thing in Australia.

 

[BGinGA]

Thinly-veiled brag post for Terrible's rug in adjoining bathroom.....

 

[slisk250]

Did you run into the gas station and steal that mat?

 

[72o]

And I'm sure the post office will be happy to see the use of their boxes as drop cloths .

 

[Mental Nomad]

And I'm sure the post office will be happy to see the use of their boxes as drop cloths

It's OK, Tommy will still ship with them... Reduce, reuse, recycle...

 

[Tommy]

Some pics from today.

Stud fell right where the extension pipe had to come through the wall. Modification made. Will put some blocks in for support.

Those are the bolt studs for mounting the sink. Not the water lines.

 

[Tommy]

Did you run into the gas station and steal that mat?

Picked them up about a year ago on eBay.

 

[slisk250]

I was kidding of course....but maybe the seller grabbed them and made a run for it!!!!

 

[Tommy]

Lol...Some Terrible's gas stations rebranded to Chevron around the time their casinos were sold and renamed. Was from one of those I'm assuming. The back has a tag from the store number and date it was put in service or last cleaned.

 

[Tommy]

Go the all of the drains and venting done.

 

[Ronoh]

Horizontal vent should run uphill from your wet bar and lav to your double tee ("cross" should be the high point in the run). Could be a trick of the photographed angle but holes in the studs and sink support board seem to confirm the wrong slope.

 

[Mental Nomad]

The vent line should be sloped to drain condensate into the same sewer pipe it serves... But the Tee drains into the same sump as the sink, so it's the same service. This may be acceptable, but check with your local inspector.

 

[Tommy]

Another pic.

Not sure that there is anything I can do at this point. +1 for team oops. The vent line above the double tee runs to the attic and out the roof. Any rain water and condensation will definitely run to the pump and not get trapped in the vent lines.

Had a hell of a time notching some of that blocking to get the pipe in.

 

[Tommy]

But the Tee drains into the same sump as the sink, so it's the same service.

My dad was probably thinking that same thing too.

 

[Tommy]

Horizontal vent should run uphill from your wet bar and lav to your double tee ("cross" should be the high point in the run). Could be a trick of the photographed angle but holes in the studs and sink support board seem to confirm the wrong slope.

I talked to a friend that works for a local HVAC company. With the pump being the main drain, the vent slope to the double tee is OK code wise.
I did my own searching and found this pic that supports his claim as well. I guess the main concern is that rainwater or condensation doesn't get trapped in the vent lines.

 

[Tommy]

Water lines are not hooked up yet but we tested the toilet, sink and shower by pouring water down the drains and filling the tank. No leaks! The pump works great. Very fast..runs about 3-5 seconds.
Still have to add a mirror in there.

Storage cabinet for bathroom supplies, towels, etc. Timer switch for the heater that is built into the bath light/fan combo. I insulated the basement so well that we probably won't need to use it much.

Start roughing in the water lines.

The 1" PVC pump discharge pipe will be the only line not in the wall. Temp installed on the wood bracing for now.

Wet bar sink installed. Still have to do some paint touch ups and get the GFI receptacle installed.

 

[tommythecat]

Looking great!!!

 

[Tommy]

Thanks. Tip for anyone wanting to use PEX. Unless you have really long runs, avoid the coils and buy it in sticks. So much easier to work with.

 

[72o]

I hate having the runs!

 

[Tommy]

The bathtub/shower in the main bath seemed to drain a bit slow. I've cleaned out the trap and snaked the line plenty of times. It really didn't make it much faster. I figured it had to be the way the previous owner ran the drain to the main drain. Out of the p-trap to went about 2 ft into a sani-tee than ran another 4 feet into a cast iron wye that ties into the main drain line. I cut out the sani-tee and installed a wye. Working like a champ now!

(showing the piece that I cut out)

 

[Mental Nomad]

Took me a while to figure out how it must have been plumbed before...

That was definitely your problem. A sanitary tee is only supposed to receive waste from a vertical; it's never supposed to be used to join waste lines that are both horizontal!

Without the vertical run into the tee to add a lot of gravity pressure to keep it clearing, any reasonable flow will cause a lot of back pressure at the T, and slow drainage - the wye cannels the flow down the pipe, rather than firing it into the opposite wall (like a tee), so it's just a small fraction of the back pressure of a tee.

 

[Tommy]

The piece I cut out was basically where it was in the pic above. I zip tied just to take the pic.
Having the sani-tee behind the vent pipe didn't help either I guess.

 

[Ronoh]

You're telling me that the tub/shower drains through that 1 1/2" thin walled trap? I've seen a lot in my time but I've never seen that before. If any of those slip joints loosen or let go you're gonna have a big mess very fast. That should all
be 2" schedule 40.

 

[Mental Nomad]

A 1 1/2" trap meets code for a tub, as long as it converts to a 2" drain run after.

The 1 1/2" will stay clear better than the bigger trap, because the flow from a shower is fairly low - the water movement through a 2" trap will be about half as fast as a 1.5" and allow silt to settle. The tub's strainer/drain plug is unlikely to allow a high flow rate, either, even when filled quite high - a little more pressure doesn't increase the flow rate much if the opening is restricted.

(If there's a concern, just make sure the shower head is not a high-flow design that puts out a lot of gallons per minute, and you should pass inspection.)

 

[Tommy]

Decided not to move the old water heater back to the original spot. I purchase one of these today.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Ec...nkless-Gas-Water-Heater-ECOH160DVLN/203404940

 

[Mental Nomad]

Sweet!

 

[CdnBeerLover]

Nice. But do you have any concerns about how long it could take to get hot water to the outlets farthest away from the heater?