Point Defiance dealer buttons? (3 Viewers)

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i'm happy with just about anything. If there's a color choice, I'll decide after the proofs
 
I'm not sure exactly where I'm supposed to post this. I'm assuming here. These are three drafts that you can weigh in on...

100B382_3-DRAFTS.jpg
 
Dunno why the gradients above look like donuts, instead of looking like the original art below. I don't want a creamy white center filling.

pd-button-19-png.16502
pd-button-b-1-png.16658
pd-button-2-png.16352


These three designs are classy. The proofs continue to not be.
 
Dunno why the gradients above look like donuts, instead of looking like the original art below. I don't want a creamy white center filling.

pd-button-19-png.16502
pd-button-b-1-png.16658
pd-button-2-png.16352


These three designs are classy. The proofs continue to not be.

The color range of the printed buttons is smaller than the range you get on the screen. You're going to lose the stamp completely if you're trying to do yellow on yellow.
 
Sal does great work. I'll bet he makes one to see how it looks to himself, before making a bunch and shipping them out. His QC seems pretty good and when a mistake happens he fixes it.
 
Brown at Yellow FTW.

BG hit the nail on the head with the screwy gradient. It needs to be like the orig artwork, not a white middle. Not sure if this is simply a product of the files used? I know that Sal said the file types used have a great deal to do with the finished product.
 
I didn't weigh in right away because I have already posted my thoughts in the other thread with the original proofs and not much has changed since then. From the other thread:

My thoughts are this: I have always heard and am well aware that colors in "real life" are always going to be different than what you see on the screen, but I never realized that the color would differ from the original art work when being turned into a proof as well. That's just my ignorance, I thought OWPS would "input" the color AT used somehow into the printer, formatted in what ever code is needed, and then the final product might differ from that. If this is the way it needs to look on the screen to match the mock up when printed that's awesome, but my "what now?" question was asked in a "what do we need to change to get what we want?" type of way if the proof submitted was going to be close to the actual printed color. If the final product is a shade or two around the area of AT's design I am all for it (not speaking to the gradient issue), but if the actual printed color is a shade or two in the area of the proofs color then I am not a fan.

I'm still thinking this way and nothing has been said to what I wrote. If the color of the dealer button is around the shade of Sals proof then I am not a fan, but if that's just the way the color needs to look on the screen for the printed product to match (as close as it can match obviously) atomiktoasters proof then I am definitely a fan. Other than Sal saying "I picked a color that I feel is close to the original designs brown" (paraphrasing) I am still wondering how close the match is. I guess this is where my comments about a prototype come in because I can't say anything else about the color.

Gold and blue are interesting to me as well, but I don't feel it's necessary to get to hyped up on the color if this;


Also, to me, the gradient is different, and that might just be the way it appears on the screen or a result of printing limitations but it seems like it's a thicker gradient as opposed to AT's art that lightens up quicker. The "bubbles" of the P and D are darker in relation to what they would be on AT art is where it stands out the most to me.

is not addressed. I still don't know if the gradient issue is a result of the "way it looks on the screen" or a result of "printing limitations", but either way the gradient is completely different in shade progression than the original artwork on both proofs that have been posted. I'm still not sure what the answer is, but I haven't changed my opinion of "not a fan" of the gradient if the proof is what it's going to look like. If it's an issue that can be fixed cool, if it's going to look like the proof and not the original art (like BG's post also points out) I think the gradient is a detriment to the design.



I may be reading it wrong, but I am reading a little bit of frustration in a few of the earlier posts from a few people, I guess another reason I didn't weigh in right away is because I don't feel a need for that...maybe I'm just reading it wrong though. There are a few people saying "I like them all, I'm not picky" but I would ask those people this: Are you ok with the proofs submitted or are you basing that statement off the original artwork? Because if they are just looking at the original artwork and not at the proofs then that doesn't help anything, but if they are ok with the proofs I guess I would order some as well.

I just want a dealer button and I have zero experience (or the artistic skills) to do something like this on my own, I am GRATEFUL for all the work you have done @atomiktoaster , and I think OWPS puts out a good product, but I am kinda lost here and am willing to go with the majority flow on this.
 
Sorry but I don't know how to explain it any more than I have. I'll try one more time.

!) The colors I chose are CMYK codes from swatches that match the original draft color. I held a colored chip up to the AT's draft from the original post on my computer monitor and matched those colors as best I could. When I found the right color I looked at the codes printed on that swatch and input the codes so that it would print as close as possible to AT's original draft. AT THAT POINT THE COLOR MAY NOT LOOK LIKE THE ORIGINAL DRAFT BUT IT WILL PRINT LIKE IT.

2) The Gradient colors that you guys want to combine with the yellow stamp are going to conflict. When I say conflict I mean that when you take a dark brown and you taper it as a gradient down it ends up being much more yellow than red. So the stamp will likely disappear and not show up well at all because it will basically be yellow on a field of yellowish brown. And this same problem is even more obvious if you use a yellow gradient with a yellow stamp. THE STAMP WILL NOT SHOW UP WELL.
Solution: a. Use colors that are not yellow based like blue, white, black, red and purple.
Solution: b. Avoid using the gradient - use a solid color or add a white label-like center around the stamp.
Solution: c. Change the color of the stamp.
Solution: d. Keep the colors the way they are but keep the gradient and the stamp from affecting each other.

I don't care what you guys end up doing. I am only doing what I am instructed to do after giving my advice on print color which I've learned from 15 years of designing and working with printers. If you want me to keep my nose out of it and just print the original draft as it is I'll do it. I'll be glad to.
 
I have no idea. This kind of stalled after the last reply, for a few reasons in my opinion, but I'm not going to be the only one posting on it.

I would love a PD dealer button and if an agreed upon design goes to print here I'm sure I'll order a couple because they are so cheap....but in all honesty @atomiktoaster has been doing all the designs at no charge and I don't feel comfortable going to him with different art requests. The proof provided is not what I had envisioned and I'm going to keep my nose, I mean credit card, out of it.

Ive explored other options and have talked to somebody ait doing a design I just haven't pulled the trigger yet because I've been so busy.
 
Id vote for a yellow and/or brown gradient button, with a red hotstamp as sal suggested. Just my $.02. I'd be in for a couple buttons.
 
I had 20 Point Defiance buttons made (10 brown, 10 yellow) as a test run out of curiosity. Been meaning to post a for-sale-at-cost thread, will try to get it up this weekend. No dibs here will count.
 
I had 20 Point Defiance buttons made (10 brown, 10 yellow) as a test run out of curiosity. Been meaning to post a for-sale-at-cost thread, will try to get it up this weekend. No dibs here will count.

How did they turn out?

Dibs! :LOL: :laugh:
 
I had 20 Point Defiance buttons made (10 brown, 10 yellow) as a test run out of curiosity. Been meaning to post a for-sale-at-cost thread, will try to get it up this weekend. No dibs here will count.

Brown and Yellow from the above designs ?? If that is the case, I would hope you would honor the people involved in this thread from the start. Or something new, would love to see the pics please.
 
Getting pricing together with shipping options, and will have a dealer button thread up in the next day or so.

pd2-jpg.20700
 
Wow, those yellow buttons turned out fantastic Dave. Please put me down for two if they're available. Exactly as I hoped they'd be. Just WOW!
 
@BGinGA Texas here!!! LOL. Had fun the other night in P*. Anyway I will probably miss this week, on the road all week for business although two nights will be at the Hard Rock in Tulsa. Not sure when you are going to post a GB on these but I definitely would like one of each or would be willing to only take one if there is a very high demand. That way others can take advantage of you thoughtfulness in getting some made up and offering them to the community!

I know myself and @atomiktoaster @Trihonda @Jason and @12thMan are on the edge of seats!!!

Thanks,
David O
 
We had a group buy being organized. Seems like people want more than one, but BGinGA jumped the gun and had 20 made. We had about 10 or 11 people interested. I only want one, but I suspect this might be difficult to sort out.
 
If they all sell we can always order more and even try different colors. I am not sure but I think he used the artwork from @atomiktoaster . If @BGinGA allows us to use the same manufacturer and artwork I do not have a problem organizing a GB.
 
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