Something else to keep in mind, all the other base colors in the set have the brass flakes, DG peacock doesn't. Blue, gray, canary, yellow, butterscotch are all weighted. That typically doesn't tweak me (my customs are mixed with weighted/non weighted) but It might be odd to have just one base color in the set that's not weighted. Imperial blue could be another option, it's about halfway between DG peacock and blue.
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Post mockups for fun/science? (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter lherron
- Start date
Something else to keep in mind, all the other base colors in the set have the brass flakes, DG peacock doesn't. Blue, gray, canary, yellow, butterscotch are all weighted. That typically doesn't tweak me (my customs are mixed with weighted/non weighted) but It might be odd to have just one base color in the set that's not weighted. Imperial blue could be another option, it's about halfway between DG peacock and blue.
@Beakertwang … why (and HOW) did you rotate the 1/4 pie molds in your first two examples?
CantSpellPoker
Straight
On the bottom right of the Design Tool page... use the dropdown to change "Inlay Image" to "Spot," and use the arrows to rotate it around.
SeanGecko
4 of a Kind
Weird how uploading it changes the color. Still deciding on the chips
The chip design tool is fun!
SeanGecko
4 of a Kind
IT IS ISN'T IT!
Hey all, first rough of my dream set. Still working on a name to place in the inlay, but obviously Chicago themed. This would be a tourney set, and I am honestly considering selling off a couple sets today for this (or at least absorb some of the costs). Any feedback is appreciated. In full disclosure, I am no graphic artist, so the inlay likely looks a bit rough, I would want to clean it up (make it sharper), and would be open to thoughts on if the inlay should change color with the chips (green on green, etc). Thanks!
WedgeRock
Royal Flush
So the 4A14 and 8A14 spots with the white band across the middle look... disjointed. I think edge spot progression could use some work. What are the denoms we're looking at? Is the white base a T500, then yellow T1000 and pink T5000?
Denoms L-R: 25, 100, 500, 1k, 5k
Apologies, I don’t know the edge codes, so assume you mean the black chip. Thought was keep low denoms simple, and then get friskier with higher. What would you recommend?
WedgeRock
Royal Flush
Edgespot codes are in the notes to the left of each chip. But yes, the hundo and the 500 both have a 1/4 inch spot at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock that match too closely (or not closely enough) with the band across the middle of the inlay. It seems you build up from T25 to T100 to T500, then you step backward (with thinner and fewer spots in the T1000 and all the way down to two colors in the T5000). I do like the simplicity of the T25, and the T100 looks like the Tonk $100, which is a great looking chip. FWIW, I'm more of a traditionalist with colors (not that you have to be...its your set, so its whatever you like), but I'd definitely be going with a T500 in the purple family. Maybe a yellow T1000 and an orange T5000.
Ahhhhh. Thanks!
Understand your thoughts on the T500...kinda want to break away from traditional. On the T100, I may have not chosen the white option by mistake. Would go with white for sure. The red/white/black is tribute to my Blackhawks, hence the color choices.
WedgeRock
Royal Flush
Your T100 is a pretty bold choice, IMO. It will stand out. It seems to me that it will outshine the T1000 and T5000 just because its so bold. Make no mistake about it, the 6A18 spots of the T1000 are a Level 9 spot, but not because they are flashier than the 8A14 spots (Level 6 )... Its because 1/8th inch spots are more labor intensive to make than 1/4" spots. My point is, don't expect spot progression just because you are stepping up in levels.
So here's my attempt to make edge spots progress a little better. I juiced up the T25 a little, moved the tri-moon edge spot to the T100 (and juiced it), bumped the 4A14 and the 8A14 down one chip, then went a little crazy with the T5000, but you won't be buying a ton of them, so you can splurge on a Level 9. I tried to stay with your colors, but added some personal preferences that you might not like. Just keep playing around in the poker chip design tool until you find something you like (and remember, my idea of spot progression is not what's important... you have to like it). There is no right answer, but find something you like.
EDIT: Also, your 500 is gonna be your workhorse. Its gonna be in your starting stacks and its gonna be on the table when the tournament ends. Make sure you like that chip.
So here's my attempt to make edge spots progress a little better. I juiced up the T25 a little, moved the tri-moon edge spot to the T100 (and juiced it), bumped the 4A14 and the 8A14 down one chip, then went a little crazy with the T5000, but you won't be buying a ton of them, so you can splurge on a Level 9. I tried to stay with your colors, but added some personal preferences that you might not like. Just keep playing around in the poker chip design tool until you find something you like (and remember, my idea of spot progression is not what's important... you have to like it). There is no right answer, but find something you like.
EDIT: Also, your 500 is gonna be your workhorse. Its gonna be in your starting stacks and its gonna be on the table when the tournament ends. Make sure you like that chip.
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WedgeRock
Royal Flush
Here's my spot progression, but more of your colors (still made some changes):
detroitdad
Royal Flush
detroitdad
Royal Flush
It is a nice chip. It is nowhere near the "same" chip.
Yeah, but essentially.
SeanGecko
4 of a Kind
If you squint at it and tilt your head.....
what are the thoughts on the inlays (not the design, but the size?) Are you guys of the bigger inlay mindset, smaller? And should I be thinking about matching the inlay color to the chip? Talking preference here, and there are no wrong answers of course.
CantSpellPoker
Straight
7/8” inlay for me all day long. I really dislike anything bigger than that. Obviously, bigger inlays work better with certain molds, but I don’t like any mold/inlay combos that include a large inlay.
Regarding matching the inlay to the chip, it depends on the design of your inlay, in my opinion. Sometimes it’s good to try it, other times a single inlay can stand alone on every chip.
Ok, because I have chip design sickness (and because I’ve gotten some good feedback), I’ve gone after another shot at it. My love for the Bellagio $5000 chip is why I’ve got the hots for the base white chip. If I go with solids, the first 5 are what I like (T25 thru T5000). Not sure I would move off those colors. The 5 with spots are open to input. Admittedly, I am not as versed in this as a lot of you, so again, suggestions, thoughts are welcomed!
RoyalBluff
3 of a Kind
Dang, I dig these so much! Everything about them is classy!
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