River Dave's Custom Tina Label - My story (1 Viewer)

PixelatedPunk

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TL;DR: I have been experimenting with AI, documenting some of my designs and insights as I go along. Main question for everyone is, do the last images (the ones with computer circuits in the background) are they too detailed to be printed on a Tina hybrid?

Hey everyone, I've been experimenting and mocking up some designs using AI for some custom labels for my home games. Not only am I learning about AI while doing this process, I am seeing what is possible in terms of my imagination. I believe I've settled on a name for my home games, as the guys usually call me River Dave since I always seem to get really lucky on the river and win, so they nicknamed me River Dave. Anyway, I wanted to document my journey and potentially get some feedback. I'm specifically looking to see if some of my designs are too complicated, or if they would show up well if I ordered some TINA hybrids.

The beginnings: I first started with some simplistic designs about a week or two ago, just to keep it simple. After viewing sample sets and mockups that users have posted on here, as well as viewing the custom designs that Justin offers in the monthly group buys (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/web-mold-greek-mold-pre-designed-sets.115859/), I decided to start making some images. Here are just a few of the images that I churned out:
logo2.png

One of the first ones, I really liked the layout, but I felt it was to detailed and to generic.

a1.png

I had the idea of using the Omega symbol as I am a big fan of the wrestler Kenny Omega, and that symbol is really cool. I felt like most Poker chip designs have some sort of symbol that represents the card room. Also, after seeing some people add the year of their card rooms, I decided to do that as well I intended to put the denomination values in the center of the omega symbol. I am now realizing the limits of AI, as sometimes it adds extra text in places you don't want it. Again, for my sake I am just trying to get an idea of what is possible, and hopefully it will spark something that I can go off of.

BEST1.png

After viewing The Flying Sausage Dog labels (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/the-flying-sausage-card-room-tina-custom-ceramics-set.130180/), I got inspired to make this one. I really like the simplicity of this one, but I think the denomination location could be better and maybe have more space for the bigger tournament values.

glogo4.png

Another one just for fun. I really like how the denomination came out on this, but I still feel that the art itself is to generated. Which leads us into...

Adding some video game elements: I decided I wanted to incorporate my love and passion for gaming into my design. This made me think of creating a Mega Man themed set, similar to all the amazing work Cratty has done with his many designs. I didn't want to create two sets, but I figured I could possibly incorporate some elements of Mega Man/Video games into some designs to help the art a bit.

rdfin1.png
p2.png

I started with a more retro video game look, while keeping it looking like a title screen. As I was making them though, I was wondering if the pixalted-ness would show up with Tina's printing process? This lead me to the next option:
p5.png

I feel like this design is very subtle and I used my prompts to mimic a more indie style game, as well as reintroduce the water/river element with a variable denomination at the bottom.

Leaning into the Mega Man vibe:
(Today/Last night) I have been heavily leaning into the Mega Man and computer aesthetics. I have been in love with the following designs, but I am concerned they might be to detailed for a Tina chip. I guess my question is, will these ones look ok on a Tina hybrid, or should I go back to a more simpler design
5.png

7.png

mock1.png

The bottom one is probably my favorite so far. Would this one look ok as a label on a Tina hybrid?

Thanks for looking!
 
I'd be concerned with the small lines and text in your last one, especially with darker colors tending to bleed some.

Personally I'm a big fan of these two though below, but the text on the latter est. 2024 would also likely be too small to print well.

In general I'd definitely recommend designing the chips/spots themselves now. The colors you want/select may also lead you to one theme over another, or drive you to make color adjustments.

Fun/good work!

1000015448.png
1000015449.png
 
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I have zero experience designing for Tina, however one advice I got for poker labels is to print off even on a home printer size wise around the 39mm inlay / poker chip size and see how they look.

Small text and details that look good on a backlit screen might not come through or with enough contrast.

GL!
 
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Very cool ideas!
I do recommend keeping the denomination as large as possible. On most of them, they're way too small, imo.
To test, print some out at 24mm, or just under 1" per label so you can really get an idea of their size.
There is also the possibility of doing the background graphic with text on one side, and the background graphic with a large denomination on the other.
 
... one advice I got for poker labels is to print off even on a home printer size wise around the 39mm inlay / poker chip size and see how they look.

Small text and details that look good might on a backlit screen might not come through or with enough contrast.

GL!
...
To test, print some out at 24mm, or just under 1" per label so you can really get an idea of their size.
There is also the possibility of doing the background graphic with text on one side, and the background graphic with a large denomination on the other.
These are both the correct answer. Print it at home to test it out.

All of my latest chipsets are designed for the 43mm web mold which utilizes a 28mm inlay size... this is the biggest size inlay for any Tina chip (as far as I know), and I'd recommend using it to utilize as much real estate to print your detailed graphics. 28mm vs 24mm makes a really big difference in detail in my opinion.

For Lunar Landing, those inlays printed very detailed graphics, just a little on the darker side, but I was happy with how much detail was included.
 
I have been toying around with the Paulson chip design tool (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/resources/paulson-chip-design-tool.93/) but I am thinking about keeping chip colors pretty standard. I am not entirely set on colors or the label, but I am leaning toward like a gradient of green/blue. The circuitry just seemed like a cool design, but I would have to see what it looks like when it's printed. I know for your turtle design it looks like you have a sewer background that is very subtle, I was hoping for something similar with maybe a few lines of circuitry to enhance what is already there.

Again, everything you see has been auto generated so it's hard to actually change small things without generating a completely new image. I think the next step is to make sure I leave enough space for the denominations.

I am leaning towards a 39mm chip, so I will toy around with printing some designs at home to see how they look.

I appreciate all the help! I feel like I've learned more about poker chips than I thought I would want since joining!

For Lunar Landing, those inlays printed very detailed graphics, just a little on the darker side, but I was happy with how much detail was included.
I really, really like this set and was inspired to add my circuitry to see how detailed I could get since the Lunar set is somewhat detailed. I also really like the non conventional chip colors and might take some inspiration from them.
 
I think I found an inlay that I really like. I still would need to add the denominations (would probably need some help).

print5.png


I have been messing around with @MrRossKeys Lunar Landing cash set chip colors as an inspiration, and realized that his $5 and $20 are almost exactly what I would want. I might change the $5 slightly, but those neon-y colors seem to fit this retro 80's vibe, and the $20 is literally exactly what I would want. I have been playing around with my lower denom chip colors, but I wanted other's opinions. When picking spots, specifically for the .25 cent chip, does having a spot color being the same color of the next denom chip look bad? Should it stay similar in color to what the base is?

roughdraft1.png

I am still deciding on whether I want .25/1/5/20 or 1/5/25/100. I usually run my games tournament style but very casual with a unlimited number of buybacks until a certain time. I would also like to use this as a cash chips every once in a blue moon, so that's why I am leaning towards the 25 cent to start. We are currently starting with $700 in chips with about 8 guys, using 1/5/25/100. Here is what I have broken down in a simple spreadsheet using 8 players. Buying this many would allow each person to rebuy at least once, or run a 16 player tournament (future goals).
8players.png
 
did a test print just to see how it would look, definitely need to lighten up the colors especially in the city part.
IMG_3272.jpeg


I also am really digging this image, although I would change the middle to just be a denomination value. Does anyone know how pixelated leters like this print on their printers?
print1.png
 
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When picking spots, specifically for the .25 cent chip, does having a spot color being the same color of the next denom chip look bad? Should it stay similar in color to what the base is?
I'm going to go against what I've seen/heard here on PCF and say that I think choosing a spot color that matches the next denom is a technique that adds cohesiveness to the set, as long as it is pretty consistent across chips in the set.

I've only ever heard the opposite here, that you should try to use unique colors across the set and not repeat colors... My favorite sets of others don't seem to follow this rule, so :unsure: :unsure::cool
 
Can I get some critique on the color choices?
Blue = 25cent
Green = $1
Purple/Red? = $5
Black = $20
Gray = $100

I am not liking the purple at this moment...inlay is still a work in progress.
template1.png


Edit: After looking at it again, I might be ok moving the gray to the $1 spot, the green to the $20, and the black to the $100 to make it a little more traditional.
 
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