Super-Ellipse Pre-Build Thread - Getting All The Ducks Lined Up... (25 Viewers)

[LotsOfChips]

So some time ago I read a thread from @Taghkanic where he was discussing how the standard "Stadium" or "Oval" shaped table had pretty poor sight lines (players at certain seats can't easily see players at some other seats), and after playing at a bunch of different tables, I pretty much agree with him.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/table-shapes-a-bit-of-a-rant.22942/

After looking at some simple Ellipse based tables, I found that the ends were a bit too pointed for my taste. So when I decided to build my own table, I wanted to use the "Super-Ellipse" or Lame Curve shaped design, as mentioned by @Taghkanic in the above noted thread.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Superellipse

This is different than a simple ellipse in that rather than having just a Major (a) and Minor (b) Axis to define the curve, you can adjust and vary the shape of the table by altering the "n" value of the mathematical equation that defines the curve:

x = a * ( cos(t) ) ^ ( 2 / n ) * sign(( cos(t) ))
y = b * ( sin(t) ) ^ ( 2 / n ) * sign(( sin(t) ))

​

The issue that I struggled with was that unlike "Oval" or Ellipse builds, there are no simple woodworking jigs to accurately lay out, draw or cut a super-ellipse curve on a full sheet of plywood.

I asked in a thread on this forum for suggestions on how to draw out and cut the shapes, but didn't really come up with any methods that would provide the accuracy and the flexibility to change shapes that I was looking for.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/how-the-heck-do-you-cut-a-super-ellipse.105025/

Given my level of OCD, I realized that I wouldn't be happy with free-handing things or getting "close enough" and then sanding things to line up afterwards. So I decided that using a CNC machine would be about the only way that I could pull this off. I looked online for home shop CNC machines that could cut full sheets of plywood, and stumbled across the V1 Engineering Lowrider. It uses 3D printed materials for many of the parts, and the designer has posted all of the plans and files online for free. Total cost for all of the hardware (including the 3d filament but not including the table, router and end mills, or my new 3D printer) is around $450 US.

I built the Lowrider version 3, but there is a new and more capable version 4 that has just been released. Here is a link to my build thread on the V1E Forum

https://forum.v1e.com/t/introducing-big-red-lowrider-3/45509

Next up was learning how to use 3D modelling to create the table design. I used AutoDesk Fusion, which has a free license for hobbyists and small business users. There was a bit of a learning curve, but after a bit of trial and error I was able to come up with a design that allows me to quickly alter:

• Table Length ("a")
• Table Width ("b")
• Table Shape ("n")
• Rail Width
• Cup Holder Size (Jumbo, Regular or None)
• # of cupholders (8 or 9 players)
• Location of Cup Holders (In the middle and ends, or staggered away from the ends)

I was also able to model the exact location and size of the rail bolts/tee-nut holes, cup holder holes, kickstand legs and support gussets (which move or change size as the table length is adjusted. I can also adjust things like rail and playing surface foam thickness, plywood thickness, screw and bolt sizes/lengths, and see how those changes affect the table design.

Here's a few examples:

"n" = 2.2 96" x 48" 8 player w/ Jumbo Cup Holders and 6" Rail

Same table, but changing "n" to 2.4 (less pointed on the ends)

Here's a smaller version

n" = 2.2 84" x 44" 8 player w/ Regular Cup Holders and 4.5" Rail

and again the less pointed "n" = 2.4 version:

Here's the 84 x 44 version (N = 2.2) with the cup holders on the ends:

and a 10 player version

A view of the bottom, that shows all of the screw and bolt placement

And lastly a cross section of the table surface and rail

I still have a little bit more modelling to do (adding folding table legs, cup rings, etc.), but the model is close to finished. I am going to start laying out the flat pieces in a couple of weeks in order to generate the "g-code" commands for the CNC. After that, I need to teach myself Adobe Illustrator, so that I can prepare my custom Chanman cloth design. Who knows how long that will take...

 

[Taghkanic]

FWIW, the Gorillia Gaming “Illuminati” tables are super-ellipses. In fact the one I later bought from them looks like an almost exact match, dimensions-wise, for some of the plots I posted a while before they started producing them.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/table-shapes-a-bit-of-a-rant.22942/page-3

I don’t expect royalties, LOL.

Anyway I suggest checking out the Gorilla tables — not to deter you from building yourself, which can be a very satisfying challenge. Just to see how they approached it. One thing I like on their current version is the drop-in felt, which allows for relatively easy swaps if you ever need to replace the surface.

They have a regular version and a dealer version, this is the regular:

https://gorillagaming.net/illuminati-table/

 

[merkong]

And this super Ellipse is still coming out of one standard sheet of plywood… The only difference is the curve…

I have built two ellipses and can’t disagree; with a 6” rail (required for jumbo drink holders) the ends get “pointy.”

Because I’ve long since abandoned my OCD for a general apathy and possess a strong belief that “if it’s covered by cloth or vinyl nobody cares” when I get to starting my super ellipse or “Lame Curve” (I so prefer that nomenclature) I’ll get one “corner drawn to my satisfaction and after cutting that line, simply use the scrap as my template for the three remaining cuts. Any other full sheets that need matching I’ll use the original board as my template.

I’ve been readying for a build and being rereminded that a Lame Curve design can be done this simply I’ve decided to begin preparing.

If I have my cloth and accessories on hand I can build a table in one weekend.

Lookout!