Barrington poker table thread (17 Viewers)

I'm new here and not the best person to ask, but I bet there is someone on here that will know for sure. There's a guy for everything on here. Otherwise, I would contact a carpenter on your local craigslist to do it for you. I'm sure you could get something done for a reasonable price.
@Irish
 
Dude your original post was about the fold in the middle

My reply was that's what the custom topper is for

and yet you still ask me if that will fix the issue. LOL
Yes if it will fully fix the issue. I didn’t know if maybe it would only mask it a bit. Sorry for asking a follow up question. Haha. I won’t do that again with you my man.
 
I'm new here and not the best person to ask, but I bet there is someone on here that will know for sure. There's a guy for everything on here. Otherwise, I would contact a carpenter on your local craigslist to do it for you. I'm sure you could get something done for a reasonable price.
I’d love to know or find someone who does this. I’m not near talented enough to tackle something like this. But I’d be willing to pay.
 
I have a rectangular table and I’d like to just buy a topper (with a thin layer of foam underneath) but I feel like without a rail it’s pointless. Has anyone seen a rectangular rail?
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a 3 5/8" hole saw they thought worked really well for the cupholder upgrade? I would prefer a hole saw with an arbor for convenience.

After reading, I saw a lot of people mentioning they wish they used a different hole saw that was deeper. Is this one acceptable?
 
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Anyone have a recommendation for a 3 5/8" hole saw they thought worked really well for the cupholder upgrade? I would prefer a hole saw with an arbor for convenience.

After reading, I saw a lot of people mentioning they wish they used a different hole saw. Is this one acceptable?
I can’t remember what size i used, but i do wish i went to Home Depot and bought one an 1/8” bigger like my gut told me i should.
 
I’m almost positive I used a 3 1/2” hole saw.
Well, now I'm confused since every DIY post in this thread indicates a 3 5/8" hole saw being used. Everyone's complaint is they wish their hole saw was deeper to help get through the wood.
 
Well, now I'm confused since every DIY post in this thread indicates a 3 5/8" hole saw being used. Everyone's complaint is they wish their hole saw was deeper to help get through the wood.
I’ll pull mine and post a photo. It was deep enough to get through both pieces of wood, but just a bit too small.
 
I’ll pull mine and post a photo. It was deep enough to get through both pieces of wood, but just a bit too small.
IMG_8400.jpeg
IMG_8401.jpeg
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a 3 5/8" hole saw they thought worked really well for the cupholder upgrade? I would prefer a hole saw with an arbor for convenience.

After reading, I saw a lot of people mentioning they wish they used a different hole saw that was deeper. Is this one acceptable?
That is the one I used and have done two table upgrades based on info in this thread.
 
Milwaukee 3.5”. Had I used the same saw but 3 5/8 it would have been perfect.
Thanks so much for checking! 3 5/8 it is!


That is the one I used and have done two table upgrades based on info in this thread.
Perfect. That's the one I saw earlier. And you thought it was deep enough for your tables?

Lastly, based on the info in this thread, would you add anything after doing two installs? I'm about to do four tables, so want to make sure I have ALL the facts from the people that have gone through this.
 
I want to add that if any of my peeps in the Boston area want to upgrade their cupholders for the price of a beer or two, I have the hole saw, drill and template!
 
For what it’s worth I played on a Barrington for the first time last week. I have to say it’s pretty nice. Obviously the pre-printed topper is crap but that’s obviously replaceable
 
Anyone have a preference for a diffuser?
I did a diffuser mod even before I knew this thread existed. I wouldn’t bother with it if I were you. There isn’t enough room between the LEDs and the diffuser to actually diffuse it enough to make much of a difference. On mine you can still see the individual LEDs, it’s just slightly dimmer now. I ordered a dimmer off Amazon that should arrive tomorrow but if I were to do it all again I’d just get the COB LED strip.
 
I did a diffuser mod even before I knew this thread existed. I wouldn’t bother with it if I were you. There isn’t enough room between the LEDs and the diffuser to actually diffuse it enough to make much of a difference. On mine you can still see the individual LEDs, it’s just slightly dimmer now. I ordered a dimmer off Amazon that should arrive tomorrow but if I were to do it all again I’d just get the COB LED strip.
Dimmer makes a huge difference! You won’t regret it if you are going to play with the lights in.
 
Mostly dim and then off. When I break out the table next time I’ll take a few photos at the various levels. It’s good enough quality and truly makes a big difference to my players. At full strength nobody likes it. At a very low setting everyone likes it a lot. Almost always gets “ahhhh there it is” each time I turn them on. Lol.
 
I have been meaning to upgrade the lights on my two Barrington tables for a long while now. I actually ordered all the parts about a year ago and have just been putting it off. With our league's Main Event Championship tournament coming up, I wanted to finally get the new lights up and running.

I went with the natural white COD lights instead of the warm white. I actually ordered two sets of the warm white that I still have in the packaging.

This was not as difficult as I thought it would be. I found it easier to pull the new lights through the hole after i cut the old LED lights out. On the first table I attached the new lights over the old LED strip. On the second table, I just pulled the old lights completely off and attached the new ones in their place. I think I would just rip any future LED strips off if I do any more tables down the road.

The first two pics are of the first table that I went over the old LED Strip.

20250406_142824.jpg
20250406_142348.jpg


This is the second table that I pulled the old strip off. Really not much of a difference visually. I just like that they sit a little further back under the rail by a tiny bit.

20250406_164859.jpg
 
I have been meaning to upgrade the lights on my two Barrington tables for a long while now. I actually ordered all the parts about a year ago and have just been putting it off. With our league's Main Event Championship tournament coming up, I wanted to finally get the new lights up and running.

I went with the natural white COD lights instead of the warm white. I actually ordered two sets of the warm white that I still have in the packaging.

This was not as difficult as I thought it would be. I found it easier to pull the new lights through the hole after i cut the old LED lights out. On the first table I attached the new lights over the old LED strip. On the second table, I just pulled the old lights completely off and attached the new ones in their place. I think I would just rip any future LED strips off if I do any more tables down the road.

The first two pics are of the first table that I went over the old LED Strip.

View attachment 1490912View attachment 1490913

This is the second table that I pulled the old strip off. Really not much of a difference visually. I just like that they sit a little further back under the rail by a tiny bit.

View attachment 1490914
Looks great! Are the COB connectors you used available on Amazon? I want to make sure I get the right ones.
 
Looks great! Are the COB connectors you used available on Amazon? I want to make sure I get the right ones.

I did order my connectors from Amazon just over a year ago. It looks like that particular set of connectors are not available anymore. I'm sure there are others just like them. Here is the link that I used, which I found earlier on this thread.

https://a.co/d/brmMjg5

I actually just used butt splices to connect the wires to the power connectors. It seemed much more sturdy to do it that way. The connectors that the kit came with were kind of weak. I could easily pull the wires out of them with a simple tug. I wanted to make sure it is not going to come apart down the road if I lug the table around every now and then.
 

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