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Barrington poker table thread (7 Viewers)

I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.

comparison.jpg


I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney and @greedyintern. Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)

Items/tools:
tools.jpg


Step 1: Remove original cup holders

This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.

hairdryer.jpg



After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.

pry.jpg



A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
  1. The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
  2. The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.

sticky.jpg



Step 2: Mark the drill hole

Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.

This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.

The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.

original.jpg



The new cup holders measure 4" across.

upgrade.jpg



Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.

Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.

Newcenter1.png



Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.

newcentercalc.png



I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.

centermark.jpg



Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.

newcenterhole.jpg



Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)

Flip the table upside down.

Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.

Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.

As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.

newhole.jpg



Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!

I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.

drilling.jpg



Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY

This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.

Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.

That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!

Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
nitros.jpg
 
Last edited:
RadicusScout said:
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.

View attachment 1289094

I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney and @greedyintern. Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)

Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142

Step 1: Remove original cup holders

This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.

View attachment 1289155


After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.

View attachment 1289156


A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
  1. The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
  2. The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.

View attachment 1289157


Step 2: Mark the drill hole

This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.

The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.

View attachment 1289168


The new cup holders measure 4" across.

View attachment 1289169


Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.

Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.

View attachment 1289453


Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.

View attachment 1289461


I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.

View attachment 1289462


Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.

View attachment 1289471


Step 3: Drill out the new holes

Before I drilled the hole, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.

Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.

As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.

View attachment 1289474


Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!

I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.

View attachment 1289481


Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY

This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.

Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.

That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!

Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497
Click to expand...
So glad my posts were helpful! Well done.
 
RadicusScout said:
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.

View attachment 1289094

I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney and @greedyintern. Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)

Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142

Step 1: Remove original cup holders

This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.

View attachment 1289155


After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.

View attachment 1289156


A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
  1. The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
  2. The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.

View attachment 1289157


Step 2: Mark the drill hole

This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.

The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.

View attachment 1289168


The new cup holders measure 4" across.

View attachment 1289169


Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.

Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.

View attachment 1289453


Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.

View attachment 1289461


I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.

View attachment 1289462


Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.

View attachment 1289471


Step 3: Drill out the new holes

Before I drilled the hole, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.

Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.

As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.

View attachment 1289474


Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!

I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.

View attachment 1289481


Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY

This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.

Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.

That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!

Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497
Click to expand...
Noting this to come back to it tomorrow, great tutorial, thanks
 
RadicusScout said:
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Click to expand...
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
 
digirati said:
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
Click to expand...
One possible reason is the metal support tube underneath the table. Looks like @RadicusScout is using the jumbo, wider cup holders. Others have mentioned that you need to shorten the support tube to allow jumbo cup holders to fit, or shift the hole away from the tube. Maybe that is what @RadicusScout is doing. That only applies to four of the cup holders though.
 
embiggens said:
One possible reason is the metal support tube underneath the table. Looks like @RadicusScout is using the jumbo, wider cup holders. Others have mentioned that you need to shorten the support tube to allow jumbo cup holders to fit, or shift the hole away from the tube. Maybe that is what @RadicusScout is doing. That only applies to four of the cup holders though.
Click to expand...
I've read the metal tubes were longer on earlier versions of the Barringtons, so cutting of them is no longer required. In fact, by moving the center of the hole, it's getting even closer to the tubes.

I think moving the center keeps the larger hole from running into the sides of the table. You can see how close the hole is to the sides in this photo:
table.jpg
 
digirati said:
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
Click to expand...

Great question. If you are using the same size cup holders as the original, you can and should use the original center to drill your pilot hole. However, if you're upgrading to a bigger size cup holder, you should calculate your new center hole. The reason is twofold:
  1. You want to maintain an equal distance between the table and the outer edge. You don't want too little/too much padding on either side.
  2. You may not be able to drill a bigger hole at the original center hole without compromising the structural integrity of the table.
Here's what I mean by Point 1: You can see how I tried to make sure there was equal padding between the outer edge and the table. Had I drilled at the original center hole, the new cup holders would be a lot closer to the outer edge and would appear very uneven and lopsided.

edge-png.1289692


@Colquhoun calls out Point 2: It may be a little unclear to see but had I used the original center hole, I would have drilled away a part of the side wall of the table. I certainly didn't want to do that.

Colquhoun said:
I've read the metal tubes were longer on earlier versions of the Barringtons, so cutting of them is no longer required. In fact, by moving the center of the hole, it's getting even closer to the tubes.

I think moving the center keeps the larger hole from running into the sides of the table. You can see how close the hole is to the sides in this photo:
View attachment 1289672
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • edge.png
    edge.png
    1.2 MB · Views: 646
embiggens said:
One possible reason is the metal support tube underneath the table. Looks like @RadicusScout is using the jumbo, wider cup holders. Others have mentioned that you need to shorten the support tube to allow jumbo cup holders to fit, or shift the hole away from the tube. Maybe that is what @RadicusScout is doing. That only applies to four of the cup holders though.
Click to expand...
I didn't have to shorten any support tubes. You can see in my last picture of Step 3.

The new Barringtons (or at least the version I have) have shorter tubes to make this a lot easier than the previous version.
 
Last edited:
digirati said:
Yep, I’m probably going to buy deeper cup holders, not wider ones. Thanks for clarifying things!
Click to expand...
That should make things a lot simpler. Have fun with your upgrade!

Oh, and to really clarify - you want to use a smaller hole saw than the one I used. I know you know this but I wanted to say it - just in case. ;)
 
digirati said:
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
Click to expand...
I mistakenly used the center of the original hole at first, and my hole cutter kept hitting small nails or staples that were in the wood along the edge of the table. It's definitely better to move the center hole 1/4 inch to the middle of the table.
 
JDPoker said:
I mistakenly used the center of the original hole at first, and my hole cutter kept hitting small nails or staples that were in the wood along the edge of the table. It's definitely better to move the center hole 1/4 inch to the middle of the table.
Click to expand...
Did you have the new LED version of the Barrington table, or a different one?
 
greedyintern said:
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.

New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders

COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.

I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.

Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.

COB LED Lights
COB Connector Package
Dimmer
Battery Pack

Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.

Jumbo Cupholders
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one)

View attachment 1252914
Click to expand...
Ordered all of the stuff to do the lights for my table upgrade (a bit too chicken to do the cupholders just yet). Most of it came today and when I ordered everything I thought to myself "I shouldn't need the dimmer, it should be fine..."

Plugged those sunsabishes in and went immediately almost blind....

He Man Motu GIF by Masters Of The Universe



.....the dimmer gets here on Friday....
 
Last edited:
RadicusScout said:
You want to maintain an equal distance between the table and the outer edge. You don't want too little/too much padding on either side.
Click to expand...
From the photos it seems like the cup holders might be a little closer to the inside of the table than the outside, but I can't tell for sure. Do you feel the cup holders are centered on the rail, or are they slightly to one side? They look great, just curios.
JDPoker said:
I mistakenly used the center of the original hole at first, and my hole cutter kept hitting small nails or staples that were in the wood along the edge of the table. It's definitely better to move the center hole 1/4 inch to the middle of the table.
Click to expand...
Were the cup holders you used the ones that are 4" lip to lip, or did you use a different size.

I can't find ANY cup holders that are 3.5" lip to lip (like the originals), but deeper than the originals.
 
digirati said:
Were the cup holders you used the ones that are 4" lip to lip, or did you use a different size.

I can't find ANY cup holders that are 3.5" lip to lip (like the originals), but deeper than the originals.
Click to expand...
I used the Jumbos with a 3 5/8th hole saw. It's been a while since I looked, but I definitely remember there being an option to keep the existing size (but deeper).
 
JDPoker said:
I definitely remember there being an option to keep the existing size (but deeper).
Click to expand...
So, I just found these. Same 3.5" lip to lip and about a half an inch deeper. Not sure how meaningful the extra half inch deep will be; though I like the idea of the same outer dimensions.

https://isuremarinehardware.com/pro...ndard-soda-can-for-desk-boats-rv-cars-trucks/

They also have them on Amazon, but the pricing isn't as good (2 for $16 on Amazon vs 4 for $20 direct).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPXSWVN...I7Y2Y1BEC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

I'm going to think about this.
 
digirati said:
From the photos it seems like the cup holders might be a little closer to the inside of the table than the outside, but I can't tell for sure. Do you feel the cup holders are centered on the rail, or are they slightly to one side? They look great, just curios.
Click to expand...

Good eye. ;) Only one of the cup holders looks way off center (now you're going to give me a complex about it). I think that's the very first hole I lined up when I started measuring.

offcenter.jpg


Others mostly look like this:

center.jpg
 
RadicusScout said:
Good eye. ;) Only one of the cup holders looks way off center. I think that's the very first hole I lined up when I started measuring.

View attachment 1294537

Others mostly look like this:

View attachment 1294538
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I've went back and froth on getting the 4" wide ones or a smaller one (3.5"+) but I'm think I'm just going to follow your lead and go with the 4". The deciding factor was bourbon! To use a standard old fashioned glass you really need that extra width space.. Thanks for such a great post....you've given us all a great roadmap.
 
digirati said:
Thanks for the reply. I've went back and froth on getting the 4" wide ones or a smaller one (3.5"+) but I'm think I'm just going to follow your lead and go with the 4". The deciding factor was bourbon! To use a standard old fashioned glass you really need that extra width space.. Thanks for such a great post....you've given us all a great roadmap.
Click to expand...

That was my deciding factor as well. My rocks glass wouldn't fit in the old cup holders so I knew I had to upgrade.

You won't regret the decision. It's a great improvement.

Have fun!
 
These fit perfectly.

1710732559892.png


My players are mainly bourbon drinkers so I'm not bothering to upgrade. Solo cups for beer fit too. Glasses are free with bourbon purchases around November.

1710734456977.png


That's extra cost and time to upgrade the cup holders. It's easier to get glasses and cups to fit the cup holders that come with the table.
 
Last edited:
RadicusScout said:
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.

View attachment 1289094

I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney and @greedyintern. Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)

Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142

Step 1: Remove original cup holders

This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.

View attachment 1289155


After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.

View attachment 1289156


A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
  1. The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
  2. The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.

View attachment 1289157


Step 2: Mark the drill hole

Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.

This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.

The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.

View attachment 1289168


The new cup holders measure 4" across.

View attachment 1289169


Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.

Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.

View attachment 1289453


Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.

View attachment 1289461


I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.

View attachment 1289462


Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.

View attachment 1289471


Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)

Flip the table upside down.

Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.

Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.

As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.

View attachment 1289474


Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!

I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.

View attachment 1289481


Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY

This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.

Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.

That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!

Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497
Click to expand...
Im attempting this, this weekend. Any other advice to give? Really appreciate the post it's super helpfuL!
 
ctestb said:
Im attempting this, this weekend. Any other advice to give? Really appreciate the post it's super helpfuL!
Click to expand...
Have fun!

The only other advice is to take it slow. In retrospect, I wish I had used a different hole saw. The hole saw I used was a bit big and didn't allow for my arbor to properly get into the table before the saw started doing its thing. Because of that, the hole wasn't as perfect (or more close to perfect) than I would have liked.
Overall the cup holder upgrade is a pretty simple procedure. Take it slow, double check your measurements, and don't hurry your sawing. Enjoy your new cup holders!
 
Last edited:
RadicusScout said:
Have fun!

The only other advice is to take it slow. In retrospect, I wish I had used a different hole saw. The hole saw I used was a bit big and didn't allow for my arbor to properly get into the table before the saw started doing its thing. Because of that, the hole wasn't as perfect (or more close to perfect) than I would have liked.
Overall the cup holder upgrade a pretty simple procedure. Take it slow, double check your measurements, and don't hurry your sawing. Enjoy your new cup holders!
Click to expand...
I ordered a 3 5/8 hole saw with the arbor attached so I plan on taking it slow and you can usually when (if you take it slow) you cut through a certain surface so I plan on taking it super slow. So you just push it through the original leather hole?
 
ctestb said:
I ordered a 3 5/8 hole saw with the arbor attached so I plan on taking it slow and you can usually when (if you take it slow) you cut through a certain surface so I plan on taking it super slow. So you just push it through the original leather hole?
Click to expand...

Remember to saw from the bottom of the table (flip your table upside down). This way you won't rip the foam nor vinyl.

ctestb said:
So you just push it through the original leather hole?
Click to expand...

You mean the new cup holders, right? Yes - you push them (knead them) in through the original hole.
 
Last edited:
RadicusScout said:
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.

View attachment 1289094

I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney and @greedyintern. Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)

Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142

Step 1: Remove original cup holders

This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.

View attachment 1289155


After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.

View attachment 1289156


A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
  1. The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
  2. The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.

View attachment 1289157


Step 2: Mark the drill hole

Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.

This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.

The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.

View attachment 1289168


The new cup holders measure 4" across.

View attachment 1289169


Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.

Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.

View attachment 1289453


Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.

View attachment 1289461


I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.

View attachment 1289462


Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.

View attachment 1289471


Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)

Flip the table upside down.

Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.

Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.

As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.

View attachment 1289474


Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!

I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.

View attachment 1289481


Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY

This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.

Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.

That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!

AwwDon't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497
Click to expand...
Can this be folded with those cup holders?
 

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