Correct- and it’s only the gripper count that ascends, not the platform. It feeds 1 card, then adjusts the gripper, then returns the card and says remove cards: after removing cards, it prompts to load cards, and the cycle continues.
That’s awesome! Nice job putting those together Mike@minedelta Just replaced #4 with your replacement harness. 4 great shuffles in a row!
Lol all three of us have the same nameThat’s awesome! Nice job putting those together Mike
Where can I buy one of these? Also came across a DM1 recently with the urethane hump rolleraluminum brake roller
Id be interested in trying the aftermarket roller kit, $400 seems reasonable.if anyone is looking to try an aftermarket roller kit
Hey jj_oldtimer I see you are in Colorado? I live in Aurora and could help take a look in person if you'd like. Feel free to shoot me a message on Facebook.@Buge Thanks for the reply- I ran both sizes through, then removed the spacers and used the poker sized for all the other tests. Still same result. (Pic is looking down at the shuffled side)
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How bad are your rollers? Got any pics?Where can I buy one of these? Also came across a DM1 recently with the urethane hump roller
Id be interested in trying the aftermarket roller kit, $400 seems reasonable.
Hey jj_oldtimer I see you are in Colorado? I live in Aurora and could help take a look in person if you'd like. Feel free to shoot me a message on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/matthew.chookiatsirichai/
I don't think I have any more ideas with out seeing the broken deckmate in person. You could do a complete overhaul and move the broken deckmate motherboard into your working machine and rule out if it the motherboard that's bad or if it's just one of the parts in your shuffler is.Just tried putting the good #4 cable in the broken machine. Unfortunately no change in behavior.
@diphda you have extra boards laying around?So swapping boards between the working and not working machines I think I need to replace all of the boards. Anybody have any leads on where to find them? It looks like the DM2 motherboard is available on eBay, but I haven’t seen the DM1 on there. I reached out to Patriot Gaming and they don’t carry them.
I’m not 100% sure. I think safest to replace all if can find them. Thanks.I think i can get a hold of the boards. You need the main large board or just the three smaller ones? Do you need the chips aswell?
I don't know what you paid for the unit you have but if you want to change both chips and all 4 boards you're looking at $8,000usd.I’m not 100% sure. I think safest to replace all if can find them. Thanks.
Wouldn’t it make more sense to pick up a working one for $4k-$5k and use this non working one for spare parts?I don't know what you paid for the unit you have but if you want to change both chips and all 4 boards you're looking at $8,000usd.
The main board is $2k alone IF you can find one.
I can offer to buy it off you as we have someone who will fix the boards if that's the issue but I wouldn't be able to offer much. Maybe $400 but I'd have to ask my boss what they would want to pay. How much did you pay for the unit? I might be able to tell work is a buddy and maybe get you a bit more.
Sorry to be such a downer, man.
That looks great! Thanks for posting thisI had a cracked button and started researching how to replace it. Thanks to @minedelta covering the button assembly on the OP, I was able to find out that just the lens is replaceable. The lens manufacturer, EAO, has a number of different buttons, lenses, etc and it wasn't as straightforward finding what was compatible. So I reached out to them and they shared this list:
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I ordered the original ones, 84-7111-500 (Green) and 84-7111-200 (Red) from Digikey. I guess you could get creative and have different color buttons.
I also asked EAO if there were any replacement instructions and they don't have any formal documentation. They told me to use a thin plastic stick to pry the lens out. I only had a metal tool, inserted it between the lens and the bezel, and slowly pried up and around the lens. It didn't take much effort for the lens to pop out.
Unsurprisingly, they were filthy. Putting the new one in was as simple as pressing them in. To my surprise, tactility was improved drastically on both buttons (previously the green button was less clicky and more thuddy). It was clear the grime build up contributed to the loss of tactility.
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It is a very inexpensive fix that doesn't require opening up the unit. Hope this helps other DM owners.