Feedback on custom CSQ cash set "The Paradox" (1 Viewer)

Here is my first ASM (CPC) custom set. The white ring seen here:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...tos-of-over-200-sets.13031/page-2#post-213107

...was created exactly at the edge of the red ring in the template.

(My photos, but care of @toad94 's "Gone But Not Forgotten" thread.)

ASM originals with CPC add-ons in there. You can see, especially in the 3U spot non-denomination chips the "walk" that happens from inlay to inlay in the cuts, especially being exactly at the edge.

Hopefully this gives you a real-world example of the amount of variation to expect when the inlays are cut out before application.



(David at CPC will almost certainly advise you when you submit your art, but consider tempering your enthusiasm for elements that you really care about printed that close to the advised edge).
 
Ok, so I got that correctly :) Nevertheless, thank you for explaining :tup:

In my design, the denom and the logo are getting very close to the red line in the template, so a circle might look weird in case I don't create some space by making some elements smaller or even removing them
Yep, that’s why I mentioned it. You kinda gotta squish things if you add the ring later, so best to build the design right from the start if you want to use a ring. On the plus side, it means more designs! :)
 
IMG_4358.jpeg

See how the shield is off centre? First idea was to have the shield fill out the back but I created a safe space around it so it would not cut into it when it is hand punched.

I recommend have a good circle around so it is not as noticeable ☺️
 
Nice example, but even nicer chips! Are there some more pics of that set around @Gunnar ? Might be nice for some more inspiration.

What base color are those btw?
 
Man, really a sweet set, congrats on those!

The idea to mirror one side of the inlays, maybe even make one side white and the other black popped into my mind... I'll have to try that out and see if this would look too crazy, but it seems to me it might be worth a try
There have been quite a few sets with black one side and white other side ☺️ only way to know if something is to crazy is to mock it up
 
Don't know if I'm getting crazy now, but...

100-614-rotated.png


doesn't seem too bad.

Seems to me I'll also have to toy around a little bit more with rotations, might have some unexpected effects (btw thanks for the hint @BGinGA ) Might need to adjust other spot patterns though :unsure:
 
I've tinkered around with edge spots and colors (unfortunately couldn't make time to work on the inlays) a little bit more and came up with the following:
TheParadoxNewEdgeSpots.png


Some points:
  • Apart from inlay considerations, the 100 is pretty much set. I've tried a lot of different options (also thanks to @binoclard for the ideas), but in the end I always thought that it would really be a pity if I didn't include the black chip in the set
  • I think I'll go for blurple on the 500. Still a little bit undecided on the spot pattern.
  • Even though the first blurple chip uses the same pattern as the 100, the four different colors used for the spots might just be enough mitigate dirty stack issues. Unfortunately, I didn't like the 45° rotations on the 4ds316 pattern. So if I'm going with this pattern, the contrast in colors will have to suffice for distinguishing the 100 and the 500
  • I found the results of using 4v12 as spot pattern for the 500 quite interesting. Especially the first one. However, even though the design tool shows a L5 on the first one (with one part of the spots being blurple), I'm not sure if that is correct. Couldn't find this pattern on the CPC homepage, maybe @David Spragg could clarify things? Would it be possible to create a chip like that without extra cost from L5, or are there any risks when going for that spot pattern?

More random and less important thougts:
  • Created drafts for a potential 2000 or 2500 chip (maybe getting an extra barrel as backup; reused the 500 inlay for starters) Denom might get too long for the inlay though... Anyway, I believe the first maroon chip would go well together with the first blurple 4v12 (with partially blurple spots)
  • I'll probably go for retro red instead of mandarin red for the 5's body color. Saw it used in a couple of sets and it always looked great
  • I also might switch to green and dg blue + white spots on the 25
  • The alternative spot patterns on the 5 and the 25 seem to work better together than the 312 and 3d14 I've used before but also a little bit sparse in comparison... But since I don't want to go past L3 for the 25, I think it will have to be 3d14 or 2v12. Really liked how the 45° shift worked out.
  • Might also switch from lavender to purple for the 500 spots
As always, I'm very happy about any feedback :)
 
I've tinkered around with edge spots and colors (unfortunately couldn't make time to work on the inlays) a little bit more and came up with the following:
View attachment 1195314

Some points:
  • Apart from inlay considerations, the 100 is pretty much set. I've tried a lot of different options (also thanks to @binoclard for the ideas), but in the end I always thought that it would really be a pity if I didn't include the black chip in the set
  • I think I'll go for blurple on the 500. Still a little bit undecided on the spot pattern.
  • Even though the first blurple chip uses the same pattern as the 100, the four different colors used for the spots might just be enough mitigate dirty stack issues. Unfortunately, I didn't like the 45° rotations on the 4ds316 pattern. So if I'm going with this pattern, the contrast in colors will have to suffice for distinguishing the 100 and the 500
  • I found the results of using 4v12 as spot pattern for the 500 quite interesting. Especially the first one. However, even though the design tool shows a L5 on the first one (with one part of the spots being blurple), I'm not sure if that is correct. Couldn't find this pattern on the CPC homepage, maybe @David Spragg could clarify things? Would it be possible to create a chip like that without extra cost from L5, or are there any risks when going for that spot pattern?

More random and less important thougts:
  • Created drafts for a potential 2000 or 2500 chip (maybe getting an extra barrel as backup; reused the 500 inlay for starters) Denom might get too long for the inlay though... Anyway, I believe the first maroon chip would go well together with the first blurple 4v12 (with partially blurple spots)
  • I'll probably go for retro red instead of mandarin red for the 5's body color. Saw it used in a couple of sets and it always looked great
  • I also might switch to green and dg blue + white spots on the 25
  • The alternative spot patterns on the 5 and the 25 seem to work better together than the 312 and 3d14 I've used before but also a little bit sparse in comparison... But since I don't want to go past L3 for the 25, I think it will have to be 3d14 or 2v12. Really liked how the 45° shift worked out.
  • Might also switch from lavender to purple for the 500 spots
As always, I'm very happy about any feedback :)
I just got color samples. The blurple should work by itself for distinguishing chips without changing spot except in dim lighting. That said, I think the 4V12 500 fits better in the lineup.

For long denoms, the trick is to shrink the font size a little.
 
Black and Blurple are too dark to be side to side in a set. Dirty stacks warning
That was the main reason for creating the 4v12 variants for the 500. I suppose all three of them (but especially the latter two) should mitigate the risk of dirty stacks to an acceptable level.
 
Side to side is not the same as in stacks, I would find some members that own both colors and do some tests with them in stacks and take photos.

I love blurple but I did not want to use it as I have a black chip in my set. When looking over the table on a stack in medium light things gets blurry.
 
Side to side is not the same as in stacks, I would find some members that own both colors and do some tests with them in stacks and take photos.

I love blurple but I did not want to use it as I have a black chip in my set. When looking over the table on a stack in medium light things gets blurry.
Sure, an actual dirty stack would be the best test. If you still have your color sample, you can simulate by placing a blurple color sample in a stack of black chips. Curious to see how it'll turn out.
 
Sure, an actual dirty stack would be the best test. If you still have your color sample, you can simulate by placing a blurple color sample in a stack of black chips. Curious to see how it'll turn out.
Im not at home, I think I have some blurple sample chips I will check after the weekend if someone can not do it sooner :)
 
Im not at home, I think I have some blurple sample chips I will check after the weekend if someone can not do it sooner :)
That would be absolutely great :tup:

I wonder how much influence edge spots have on dirty stacks. I think the point from @BonScot earlier this thread is quite valid, that different spot patterns and color can make chips more distinguishable. For his set, the black and blurpe chips are surely different enough, especially since the blacks have essentially 50% of their edges in green.

That's why I'd be interested in some opinions regarding the new edge spot variants for the 500
 
If it was me and Blurple was non-negotiable I’d be going for the brightest edge spots and there’s not much brighter than Dayglo tiger…

IMG_9011.jpeg
 
Unfortunately, I'm not much of a fan of dayglo tiger - found it a bit too much on the Atlantic Club 100 I own.

I think I'd rather use purple instead of blurple than using dayglo tiger as edge spot color on a blurple.

Still, thanks a lot for the suggestion
 
Just did another iteration on the colors:
TheParadoxNewEdgeSpots.png


  • Changed the 500 to DG Peacock with Blurple Edge spots. Feel like I still get the best of both worlds - having blurple in the set and avoiding dirty stacks :cool - for a small increase in price.
  • I'm pretty set on the yellow as the 2000 (=20 Euro) Chip and I'll probably get a barrel or two of those. Just a bit undecided if adding one more color with the additional bright white instead of the DG Saturn.
  • Also changed the second edge color on the 25 to bright white.
  • Inlays are definitely a WIP. Did not get started with the inlay for the 2k, but looking forward to it
Regarding bright white: Opinions whether it's worth it to pay the 55c premium for ("cleaner") bright white edge spots?
 
Just did another iteration on the colors: View attachment 1197426

  • Changed the 500 to DG Peacock with Blurple Edge spots. Feel like I still get the best of both worlds - having blurple in the set and avoiding dirty stacks :cool - for a small increase in price.
  • I'm pretty set on the yellow as the 2000 (=20 Euro) Chip and I'll probably get a barrel or two of those. Just a bit undecided if adding one more color with the additional bright white instead of the DG Saturn.
  • Also changed the second edge color on the 25 to bright white.
  • Inlays are definitely a WIP. Did not get started with the inlay for the 2k, but looking forward to it
Regarding bright white: Opinions whether it's worth it to pay the 55c premium for ("cleaner") bright white edge spots?
I like the change where this is going, I know I'm difficult

I would not go with DG Saturn spots unless you have seen it in real life. DG Yellow maybe? or DG Pink/Tiger? At least test it

Now you have CG Peacock as a big spot in the 25 and the base of 500. I would change the spot of the 25 to imperial blue or light blue.
 
Thanks for the warning regarding DG Saturn - DG Yello should work fine as well, and I have samples of that. I tried DG Tiger real quick and the result looked surprisingly good (for my taste)

Screenshot 2023-09-19 at 15.44.53.png

Still will need to iterate a little bit there, but it seems I'd probably should be a little bit less biased against DG Tiger.

After trying out the other blue colors for the 25, I still think DG Peacock gives better contrast there... Light blue becomes too bright with the white accent and Imperial blue seems to have a greenish tint itself...
 
Just as a side note: The green-blue-white color scheme is pretty much non-negotiable for the 25, since these are the colors of my home town and I'd like to keep that in. So before resorting to other colors for the edge spots, I'd rather go back to the light green body and use blue as edge spot color #1:
Screenshot 2023-09-19 at 16.04.56.png


But I'd probably prefer sticking with green-DG peacock-bright white, if there are no relatively good reasons against it ;)
 
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Just as a side note: The green-blue-white color scheme is pretty much non-negotiable for the 25, since these are the colors of my home town and I'd like to keep that in. So before resorting to other colors for the edge spots, I'd rather go back to the light green body and use blue as edge spot color #1: View attachment 1197459

But I'd probably prefer sticking with green-DG peacock-bright white, if there are no relatively good reasons against it ;)
Understood, I was just bored at work ;)
 
It seems I'm pretty happy with the blurple, maroon and retro blue colors for the spots on the 500 and 2000, but I've done some further iterations on the accent colors:

TheParadoxNewEdgeSpots.png


I've thought about the following combinations (numberings left to right, top to bottom, from #1 to #12):
  • Using #4 and #5 as 500 and 2k - just was my first thought
  • The combination of #6 for the 500 and #7 for the 2k appeal to me because the accent colors kind of blend in with the main spot colors and the chips look more subtle to me.
  • I'd like #8 better than #4 for the 500, but then I suppose I should not use #5 as 2k to avoid repeating bright white too much. It should probably be #12 for the 2k.
  • I thought about combining #8 for 500 and #7 for 2k - my main concern here is that the 500 would kind of "outshine" the 2k, which is something I wouldn't want to achieve

Regarding the chips I didn't mention:
#9 is quite the opposite of "subtle", but ironically, that variant also is sort of appealing to me. Just don't know with what 500 I'd combine it.
#11 just doesn't feel quite as good as the similar #8
And I currently think #10 would be the worst choice for the 500, maybe also because I can't find a good 2k combination for it.
 
Quickly without thinking, just pure reflex, I would say #6 for the 500, or maybe #4.

I would try to keep the same logic for the 2k, one colour for the v spots, I feel with two it begins to be a bit "variegated". I think the #9 with all maroon-peacock could work. Or maybe something else, as that would make 3 same peacock blue.

Edit: or not. as is, I vote #7 or #9
 
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I like the 500 solution, definitely no dirty stack problem.

Bright white is piercingly bright compared to CPC yellows, I would consider DG yellow instead, at least on the 25.
 

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