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Oiling Chips Done Right (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stibnite
- Start date
Just did two racks with this method, looks great and very easy to do!
Using the method in the original post on my Paulson casino chips. Just wiping off the inlays and racking them up after they’ve air dried for 48 hours. I have some un-oiled control chips I can photograph them next to later. Should be interesting to see how it holds up after a month or two
ichorus728
Sitting Out
I have a fresh set of CPC rounders on the way. Wondering if I should oil the new chips.
Colquhoun
4 of a Kind
When you get them, they’ll be dusty and the edges will look a bit faded. A few drops of oil on a cloth, wipe just the edges of 10-20 stacked chips at a time, then wipe off with a dry cloth. No need to oil the faces, just wipe them off with the dry cloth as well.
Is there a specific reason not to put any oil on the faces of new CPCs?
Does any of this "dustiness" on the edges carry over onto the faces? I would think at least the outer rim where the mold is would benefit from a touch of oil.
Yes, it definitely does carry over onto the faces. I did a quick wipe on the outer rim on my chips. But didn't oil nearly as heavily as I did on my china clays.
Colquhoun
4 of a Kind
I'm not a fan of really oily chips, and frankly the faces dont really need it. However, the edges after grinding are very dusty and dry, so th oil really helps there.
Poker Zombie
Royal Flush
I oiled the faces as well. However, most the oil went to the outside, as I would do a barrel's outside then did the faces with the same cloth (no extra oil).
I'm pretty sure I posted this before, but it's worth the repost.
It goes faster if you use 2 hands, but I needed to hold the camera.
I haven't needed to re-oil any clay chips since the first oiling, so you just get the China clay version. Sit at a table, put on a 30 minute video or sitcom and knock out 3 racks. One college lecture and you can finish a tournament set.
I'm pretty sure I posted this before, but it's worth the repost.
It goes faster if you use 2 hands, but I needed to hold the camera.
I haven't needed to re-oil any clay chips since the first oiling, so you just get the China clay version. Sit at a table, put on a 30 minute video or sitcom and knock out 3 racks. One college lecture and you can finish a tournament set.
Lunettesman
Pair
My chips hadn't seen a brush or oil for ages as I don't use them so much. I did your technic. In the process of drying. After the first 48h when you stack them in 10 I made a slight change. I stack them in 20 in the middle of a rack and apply a second coating that way. I can pressure the chips very well and slightly rotated the all 20 in a move. I have one rack dedicated for that. In a similar fashion when I have cleaned them up, I finish with stacks of 20 in the middle of a rack and then brush intensively just the edges. Works magic.
Lunettesman
Pair
Day and night
fumblingwisdom
Waiting List
This is super cool, and something I never would have thought to do on my own. Looking forward to trying it out
drdr
Straight
I found it depends on the colour of the chip. Some colours didn't need or benefit from oil on faces, but others needed oil so faces matched edges in 'pop'.
The OP is basicall partly wrong, but the title of the thread is attracting dozens of new members.
So:
-Plastic slugged or not chips: no oiling, just a shower, if factory-dirty.
-China clays: almost plastic again, so a shower and some light oiling (it can't be really absorbed)
-Ceramics: almost plastic again, so no oil to be absorbed. Just clean if ever needed.
-Paulsons: don't touch if brand-new. Shower, dry and oil older ones.
-CPCs: Imperative shower to rid them of factory dust. After drying:
Imperative oiling, as follows:
Two or three drops of mineral oil on a soft micro-fiber cloth for every 5 columns (100 chips) for the perimeters. When done with the perimeters, you use the now slightly oiled cloth to wipe the faces too, avoiding the labels, if any ('cause the vinyl labels just can't absorb).
So:
-Plastic slugged or not chips: no oiling, just a shower, if factory-dirty.
-China clays: almost plastic again, so a shower and some light oiling (it can't be really absorbed)
-Ceramics: almost plastic again, so no oil to be absorbed. Just clean if ever needed.
-Paulsons: don't touch if brand-new. Shower, dry and oil older ones.
-CPCs: Imperative shower to rid them of factory dust. After drying:
Imperative oiling, as follows:
Two or three drops of mineral oil on a soft micro-fiber cloth for every 5 columns (100 chips) for the perimeters. When done with the perimeters, you use the now slightly oiled cloth to wipe the faces too, avoiding the labels, if any ('cause the vinyl labels just can't absorb).
drdr
Straight
I didn't wash my new CPCs. As they are absorbent I wanted to avoid absorption of water that may reduce absorption of mineral oil. Instead I dry brushed the dust off with a toothbrush, then oiled as above.
Poker Zombie
Royal Flush
Since there are new members coming to a very long thread, I’m going to stand up for the oil-and-water method.
* Warm water
* An absurdly small amount of mineral oil
* A strainer in a deep sink, or even better a salad spinner basket and its basin
Put 1-1.5 racks into the strainer and dunk into the very lightly oiled bath. Lift and lower several times. Agitate with a wood spoon or your fingers to make sure every surface gets treated.
Remove and spread the chips out on towels. I like to give them a twist as I do so. After 5 minutes flip and twist to dry the other side.
Then leave laying out, flipping occasionally, to fully dry.
If you feel there is oil on the inlays, just dab them with a cloth.
If you overoiled, a quick spin in a microfiber cloth will remove excess.
But I can’t overestimate how little mineral oil is needed. We’re talking maybe a quarter cap per batch, max.
This is a really light and efficient method. Forget what your 3rd grade science teacher told you. It works. If you are going for more outrageously saturated looks, then by all means use a cloth. But I don’t see the need.
P.S. I do not find that quality clay chips in new/very good condition absorb and retain water much at all.
So the drying times I see here seem wildly excessive. The first time I oiled chips, this site put the fear of god into me so I had fans going, and kept the chips laid the chips out for 36 hours, flipping constantly… Totally unnecessary IMHO.
P.P.S. To promote consistency and further ensure dryness, I will sometimes at the end do a shuffle session, giving each barrel a few shuffles on a dry towel or other cloth, 10 chips at a time. But this is just the chipping obsesssive in me. Probably unnecessary.
* Warm water
* An absurdly small amount of mineral oil
* A strainer in a deep sink, or even better a salad spinner basket and its basin
Put 1-1.5 racks into the strainer and dunk into the very lightly oiled bath. Lift and lower several times. Agitate with a wood spoon or your fingers to make sure every surface gets treated.
Remove and spread the chips out on towels. I like to give them a twist as I do so. After 5 minutes flip and twist to dry the other side.
Then leave laying out, flipping occasionally, to fully dry.
If you feel there is oil on the inlays, just dab them with a cloth.
If you overoiled, a quick spin in a microfiber cloth will remove excess.
But I can’t overestimate how little mineral oil is needed. We’re talking maybe a quarter cap per batch, max.
This is a really light and efficient method. Forget what your 3rd grade science teacher told you. It works. If you are going for more outrageously saturated looks, then by all means use a cloth. But I don’t see the need.
P.S. I do not find that quality clay chips in new/very good condition absorb and retain water much at all.
So the drying times I see here seem wildly excessive. The first time I oiled chips, this site put the fear of god into me so I had fans going, and kept the chips laid the chips out for 36 hours, flipping constantly… Totally unnecessary IMHO.
P.P.S. To promote consistency and further ensure dryness, I will sometimes at the end do a shuffle session, giving each barrel a few shuffles on a dry towel or other cloth, 10 chips at a time. But this is just the chipping obsesssive in me. Probably unnecessary.
mattross1313
Full House
Working on the new CPC arrivals. They look so much better after a dab of oil to remove the factory dust and bring out the colours 
DMoogle
Sitting Out
I bought 1,000 Apache CCs last year and painstakingly washed, dried, and oiled each one of them individually by hand. Was a fairly relaxing process, and the end result made them look WAY better.
However, I haven't actually used them since oiling, so I took a look and found that they appear to have dried out at least some. Kind of a shame, but if they start to actually get used again I may redo it (or hope that hand oils will make the difference).
However, I haven't actually used them since oiling, so I took a look and found that they appear to have dried out at least some. Kind of a shame, but if they start to actually get used again I may redo it (or hope that hand oils will make the difference).
Flopalopagus
3 of a Kind
Completely worth it and good luck. It’s definitely time consuming!
FrankBlack
Pair
Full dunk mineral oil and 2 day air drying brought this tired rack of fuchsia back to life.
merkong
Full House
Are those the Robinsonville Gold Strike Roulettes?
FrankBlack
Pair
They are well worn hot stamp THC roulettes. Not sure on the origin.
merkong
Full House
FrankBlack
Pair
No, the fuchsia chips are roulette THC hot stamps with no location indicator.
I know I'm sick. But do I really want to be cured?
paulkersey
Two Pair
Is that butcher block oil that you're using? Beauty chips!
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