Oiling Chips Done Right (6 Viewers)

Is that butcher block oil that you're using? Beauty chips!

Yes, but it's really just food/pharmaceutical grade mineral oil with extra mark up. I bought it a long time ago so I might as well use it. I've lost count of how many chips I've oiled by hand, but it's got to be somewhere north of 20-25 thousand.
 
36mms need love too.

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I won't profess to know everything about anything or anything about everything; but what I do know is I often research and test subject matter to the fullest extent possible to find the best results.

Using a combination of advices from numerous poker minds, I set myself up to test oiling of chips in a variety of ways--from wipe n dry, to dip n drip and oil and water dont mix except with chip tricks. Yada yada.

Well, with a number of mixed results, I discovered that most methods left the chips looking great--at first--then left them lacking thereafter (usually within 1-5 days). A number of factors playing--oil type, drying method, application method, etc.

Well, after much testing using just basic Milano China Clays (which aren't supposed to take oil as well as CPC or Paulsons), I believe I have discovered the best way to oil those chips and keep them that way afterward. I named this method: Compression Oiling. A mix of common methods with a touch of my own strategical experimentation and creativity.

Hopefully my step by step tutorial on Compression Oiling will help others who keep having trouble with their oiling, and it seeming like a waste of time. Yes, your oil and chips will dry out--unless you follow the instructions I'm about to present.

Without further delay, let's jump right in!

First, I am assuming by this point you have already removed the factory dust by wiping off your chips with warm water and a little Dawn dishwashing liquid--I used the pink hand lotion version as it helped tone down the clay smell also.

Here is the difference between factory shipped dust-covered chips next to unoiled cleaned chips with 2 oiled chips hiding within.
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Bear in mind, most of the tests I conducted for oiling made the chips shine for about a day and then they returned to the "clean" matte color on the right. That suggests that most people who oil all their chips collectively probably won't notice the dullness a day later as the chips will still look clean compared to factory dust-covered. Be not deceived. Unless done right, the oil is probably gone a couple days later (as all my tests proved)--you just can't tell without a comparison. There is a significant difference beyond clean chips and clean oiled chips retaining their sheen.

Here is an example of clean chips next to oiled chips done right and still holding their shine nearly a week later and showing no signs of fading.
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So, what do you need to get started after cleaning your chips?

You need a microfiber cloth, pure mineral oil (fragrance free), and chips! A flat surface covered with plain colorless paper towels is essential.
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Some will agrue here and say to use a shoe polish applicator or water/oil dip, etc. for speed and ease. To each their own. I tried every method I could find and none of them worked better than what I am going to share, so more on that further in. Meanwhile, I will point out that if you want something done right the first time, and not having to do it over, then effort and time is required to make it so.

A wise man once told me, "Adam, how come there is never enough time to first do something right, but there is always enough time to do it over?"

Let's do this right, folks!

First thing I am going to tell you is the oil does not hurt your adhesive stickers on Milanos. I can't speak for other chip stickers or inlays yet (I'd be cautious if the sticker is paper made), but to test, I left a Milano chip submerged in oil for a week and there is no discoloration of the plastic label or loosening of its adhesive seal. Myth busted.

Next, oil can be a little liberal if you're using microfiber cloth. I start by filling the oil cap and then massaging it into the cloth to form an oil spread 3 times the chip size. Do not use the baby oil--it is filled with evaporative agents. Do not use wax--it is petroleum-based. Use pure mineral oil. Walgreens has an excellent version shown above.
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The next step is something you wont read anywhere, and I had to learn it the hard way. I think it is the single most critical reason why everyone's oil keeps drying out. I will quickly trademark this rule as mine. We will call it the "Stibnite Seal n Shine©", all rights reserved 2016.

Working with polymers, seals, impregnators, densifiers, urethanes and other forms of coverants in my business, I am highly experienced when it comes to sealing off the microscopic pores of surfaces. One thing is for sure--in order to seal something with non-water based substances like oil, it requires compression. Wooden cutting boards, for example, must be press-oiled 2-5 times before they are sealed tight and ready to use.

In layman's terms, that means if you want this china clay chip sealed right with oil, then you must add pressure to seal and lock it in. Sorry shoe polish applicators and oil-water dips--your oiling method won't stand the test of time on China Clays. Plus, water/oil mixtures apply unevenly and leave a splotchy appearance on the chip faces. That said, however, because the higher end clays are more porous, those methods are more effective overall than they are on china clays, but compression oiling WILL still be far better and provide a uniform and lasting covering and seal.

What is compression oiling? Well, it is quite simple. It means you add pressure while oiling. Using one hand, hold the oiled microfiber cloth with three fingers and using the other hand, spin a single chip between your thumb, index and middle finger firmly--applying surrounding pressure to both faces and edge at the same time. You WILL feel the chalky substance peeling off (yes, AFTER having washed the chips already), and once the edge feels smoothened from both pressure and oil, it is done. Set it on the paper towel.
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Now, you've done this rack of 100 chips and the hard part is next. You must wait 24-48 hours. Air drying is the only way to let these seal and cure. Do NOT disturb them during the air dry process.

Now, to show you why compression is important during oiling, take a look at how much rough surface came off onto the microfiber rag during compression oiling AFTER these chips had been soap washed and dryed from the factory dust.
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Compression oiling smoothens the surface and edges and forces the oil deep into the pores of the clay that oil layering or dipping cannot achieve. It also makes them much better for shuffling, etc.

The next step is another factor you wont see in the instruction manuals of chip oiling. If you use plastic trays, then you should know that they, too, are porous microscopically. Yes, get that rag out and oil the inside of your trays also, and let them air dry for 1-2 days along side of your chips. You'll be glad you did, as the charge from the plastic can withdraw active oils from within the clay. Oops! Who'd thought their plastic trays were drying out their chips? Just seal them the same way.
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Now, after waiting a day or two, your anticipation is getting the best of you. Time to get those chips off of the paper towels and dry off the adhesive sticker. Do not wipe the edge and face of chips dry with the microfiber towel as this just needlessly dulls the chip and sucks out the oil--defeating the whole purpose for air drying. Just grab the chip and quickly swipe the sticker dry and clean only. I hold the chip on the edges and make a small central swirling motion with a pinch of the thumb and index finger to clean the sticker on both sides, and done. Then start putting your chips in stacks of 10. The oil should be properly air dried by this point anyhow. The oil on the sticker, however, will still be moist enough to wipe away since the sticker on Milanos is non-porous.
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Adhesive sticker is clean and intact!

Now, you have many oiled chips in stacks of 10 sitting there. Grab a stack and place it on your oiled microfiber cloth within your hand. Hold them evenly and firmly in place and roll the edges only--avoiding faces and stickers. The edges are far more porous and truly require this second coat, but the second coat does not require compression. During this step I did not re-oil the rag, but used the leftover, nearly dried oil from the day prior. No need to make this coating heavier than a simple brisk.
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Now, place the chip stacks right into the rack, as is, to air dry for another 12-24 hours. After air drying, take them out one last time and there will be a line of settlement oil that didn't absorb left on two sides of the chips where the rack made contact on the edges. Just use your fingers and wipe it away or massage it into the chip. Do not wipe them off with the microfiber. The trace amount is so insignificant that your skin will absorb it even if you just bust them out and play them at this point.
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Congratulations. Your chips are ready to play. Place them back into the racks and call your friends and enemies over.

After nearly a week, you can see clearly that these chips are holding their shine both in play and out of play.
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Unplayed compression oiled reds 6 days old next to clean unoiled reds.

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Oiled blacks oiled and played for 6 days and holding their shine without any signs of wear.


In conclusion, Compression Oiling is the way to go in my book. I am currently applying this method to the 1000 lot and looking forward to the difference it makes to these Milanos.

I hope you found this information and guide helpful to your oiling process.

Oiling Chips Done Right!


Update: September 5, 2016 (Two week mark)

After two weeks of rigorous play, these racks which were finished back on the 21st of August still look amazing. No chips have dried out or lost sheen. I used a more natural lighting and opposing background to capture the real look so they don't appear "too" shiney.

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Also, the shuffling ability of these chips after proper oiling is pretty solid. I can smack two stacks of 20 with both hands at the same time. I can't achieve this with most casino chips consistently.

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Thank you for this great instruction! I can’t wait to try it on my incoming order of pharaohs.

If I am understanding correctly, I condensed your method so I can easily reference when I get started. Please let me know if I am missing something.

Preparation:
  • Clean chips with warm water and Dawn dish soap to remove factory dust.
  • Supplies needed: microfiber cloth, pure mineral oil, paper towels, and a flat surface for laying chips out.

Stibnites’s Compression Oiling®️Process:

Saturate a microfiber cloth with capful of mineral oil….
  1. Compress and oil chip: Hold a chip between fingers and apply light pressure while rubbing with the oiled cloth.This seals the oil into the chip.
  2. Air dry: Place oiled chips on paper towels and let them air dry for 24-48 hours without touching.
  3. Oil chip edges: After air drying, lightly oil the edges of chip stacks to add a second coat.
  4. Final air dry: Let chips air dry for another 12-24 hours.

Additional tips for better results:
  • Oil plastic chip trays to prevent oil absorption from chips.
  • Avoid wiping chips dry with the microfiber cloth after air drying.
  • Allow any excess oil on chip edges to absorb naturally.
 
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  • As allforcharity said, light pressure. You aren't forcing oil anywhere.
  • 1 coat is plenty. you aren't staining wood here, you are "speeding up" the process naturally attained by the handling of chips
  • Unless your chip trays are more absorbent than the chip, they aren't stealing oil
  • I use any old, lint-free rag
  • you need very little oil
 
I don't even "let them dry" anymore. If there's so much oil on the chip that it needs to dry, you used too much.

*does not apply to the oil & water method which requires dry-time
i agree with your first statement. And I can’t believe we’ve got 30 pages on oiling, based on some wacky method proposed by a guy who hasn’t been around for a couple of years.

As for oil and water method, I’m suspicious, but I’ve never tried it. I’d want to wipe them afterward anyway. And if I’m going to wipe them anyway, why not just do it like that from the beginning?
 
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i agree with your first statement. And I can’t believe we’ve got 30 pages on oiling, based on some wacky method proposed by a guy who hasn’t been around for a couple of years.

As for oil and water method, I’m suspicious, but I’ve never tried it. I’d want to wipe them afterward anyway. And if I’m going to wipe them anyway, why not just do it like that from the beginning?
I agree. After reading the OP again, there's so much with which I disagree.
There's WAY too much oil being used, and since mineral oil doesn't evaporate, there is no need to let them "dry". Oiling the racks because they're microscopically porous? :rolleyes:

If they were very dry clays, I could see them soaking up more oil, but a simple wipe with a slightly oily cloth is enough, even for CPC's...and even then, just oiling the edges is often enough.
And don't get me started again on the whole "compression" thing. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
 
As for oil and water method, I’m suspicious, but I’ve never tried it. I’d want to wipe them afterward anyway. And if I’m going to wipe them anyway, why not just do it like that from the beginning?

Makes a lot of sense to be suspicious of a method that multiple members have used successfully, since you haven’t tried it yourself.

Similarly, I don’t really believe the moon landings were real, because I’ve never gone to the moon myself.

But seriously: In addition to the huge amount of time saved submerging whole racks at a time rather than individually oiling them one by one, the amount of “wiping” necessary is minimal as long as you are sparing with the oil.

All I do after dunking chips several times is to lay them out on towels, giving them a slight twist as they are set down. This is more than enough to get any excess oil off.

Repeat when flipping them over after they’ve aired out a bit.

If you’ve overdone it, another simple fix to speed things up is to lay towels on top of the chips as well, and just run your hands over them.

(Note: I find that wet Paulsons dry much quicker than most assume. I used to air cleaned chips out over an entire evening with fans on them, when I was a newbie. This is totally unnecessary.)

I also used to hand-oil Paulsons while watching TV. It took several sessions and many hours to do a set that way. With the oil-and-water method I can do 500-700 in no time.
 
Makes a lot of sense to be suspicious of a method that multiple members have used successfully, since you haven’t tried it yourself.

Similarly, I don’t really believe the moon landings were real, because I’ve never gone to the moon myself.

But seriously: In addition to the huge amount of time saved submerging whole racks at a time rather than individually oiling them one by one, the amount of “wiping” necessary is minimal as long as you are sparing with the oil.

All I do after dunking chips several times is to lay them out on towels, giving them a slight twist as they are set down. This is more than enough to get any excess oil off.

Repeat when flipping them over after they’ve aired out a bit.

If you’ve overdone it, another simple fix to speed things up is to lay towels on top of the chips as well, and just run your hands over them.

(Note: I find that wet Paulsons dry much quicker than most assume. I used to air cleaned chips out over an entire evening with fans on them, when I was a newbie. This is totally unnecessary.)

I also used to hand-oil Paulsons while watching TV. It took several sessions and many hours to do a set that way. With the oil-and-water method I can do 500-700 in no time.
Multiple members have over-oiled their chips too, but I don’t need to try that, to be suspicious of it.
But sure, go ahead and attack me for not trying a method that tons of people don’t use.
 
I assumed it just kind of turned into the oiling chips thread, not necessarily that we are only oiling chips using exactly this method.

I use something similar to OP but with a lot less oil. It’s also chip-dependent. I’ve had some chips just drink up the oil where others look shiny with just a quick swipe of my oily fingers. Trial and error.

Having a lot of information with photos to support isn’t harmful, it’s a great starting point for others who want to try it themselves.

I also don’t let my chips dry, but am careful to wipe off any excess oil that I can.
 
In my experience, with several tries, not nearly. Not even close.

I’ve done it both ways. With mint chips, with old chips, with recently-TSP’d chips. Mostly on THCs and RHCs, but also older ASMs.

If you want a deeper saturation, you can always oil/water them again and *still* be way ahead on time.

I find once is more than adequate both to combat that dusty (mint) or dry (TSP’d) look, bringing out the color while giving the chip some protection.

And if the set is in play regularly, then of course they are getting lightly “oiled” again each time they are played, over the initial protective treatment.

When I was hand-oiling, the total amount of mineral oil getting on the chip was way too high, even when I was being sparing.

With the oil-and-water method, I use less than a teaspoon of oil for a whole 1,000-chip set, most of which is being thrown out with the water. It’s really surprising how this works, and counterintuitive until you try it.

I’ll never go back to hand-oiling. It was total overkill.
 
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Have avoided oil and water method as how it works doesn't seem to make sense. If chips absorb oil they would also be able to absorb water. With so little oil involved I'd expect chips are mostly just absorbing water, that would be expected to evaporate out. Which intuitively would mean retreating would be needed earlier. As oil and water don't evenly mix, I'm worried about even application. I'm also wary of wetting inlays; dry brush chalky chips rather than wash.

And that is all clashing oddly in my brain with the many claims it works. I look forward to someone somehow sciencing-out this method some day.
 
Have avoided oil and water method as how it works doesn't seem to make sense. If chips absorb oil they would also be able to absorb water. With so little oil involved I'd expect chips are mostly just absorbing water, that would be expected to evaporate out. Which intuitively would mean retreating would be needed earlier. As oil and water don't evenly mix, I'm worried about even application. I'm also wary of wetting inlays; dry brush chalky chips rather than wash.

And that is all clashing oddly in my brain with the many claims it works. I look forward to someone somehow sciencing-out this method some day.
Nope, you have it figured out correctly -- it simply doesn't work very well in practice. Very blotchy oil coverage, as chips only get oil un-uniformly applied when entering and leaving the oil/water mixture.
 
I would think if the water was agitated somewhat, there would be tiny droplets of oil scattered within the water, but it’s hard to know how much and if there’s an even distribution of oil.
I’m not saying it doesn’t work for those that use this method, there are enough folks that swear by it.
 
Have avoided oil and water method as how it works doesn't seem to make sense. If chips absorb oil they would also be able to absorb water. With so little oil involved I'd expect chips are mostly just absorbing water, that would be expected to evaporate out. Which intuitively would mean retreating would be needed earlier. As oil and water don't evenly mix, I'm worried about even application. I'm also wary of wetting inlays; dry brush chalky chips rather than wash.

And that is all clashing oddly in my brain with the many claims it works. I look forward to someone somehow sciencing-out this method some day.

I suggest trying it. What you learned in third grade about oil and water isn’t dispositive here.

As the chips are dunked in and out of the water (I use a salad spinner) oil on the surface adheres to them.

It is kind of amazing how many people keep insisting that this cannot work without having tried it.

As for water, it evaporates pretty quickly from the surface of “clay” (which after all we know contains plenty of resins and other materials). Especially if laid on towels and patted down/flipped.

Unless you were to soak chips for a very long time, water isn’t going to penetrate chips in the way you fear.

As for inlays, I have never had cleaning with water, oil, faux-TSP solutions, etc., lift up or degrade factory or applied vinyl inlays, including Gear labels. Of course, if someone improperly left gaps when applying an inlay, and form of oil or liquid could get underneath. But I assume you don’t have sloppily applied inlays. (Think about the lengths people have to go to to murder chips—getting NANPR under a label requires real work.)

I again suggest trying it with a few chips to get over these irrational fears.

P.S. Re.: Hand oiling: Again, I’ve done that too. If you are trying to simulate that hypersaturated Photoshopped pr0n look, then maybe you want to load a rag up with mineral oil and hand-apply it.

Personally I want my chips to look naturally colorful, not oily. Oil/water treatment brings out clay color, cures dryness, removes dustiness, and adds protection—without making chips look like potato sticks fresh out of the fryolater.
 
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I'm also skeptical of the oil & water method. We all know basic science, hence the reluctance to try the method. However, following the scientific principal, I would like to try the oil & water method to prove/disprove the theory.

...but I don't have a salad spinner. I'm not going to buy a space-gobbling kitchen gadget to try it out either. I would watch a video, but we would need a time-lapse because chips wet from water look great and we would need to see what they looked like dry.

In the meantime, I will disagree on the amount of time it takes to hand oil vs oil and water. I can hand oil a rack 15 minutes before game time and put the chips on the felt. Oil and water needs time to dry, or you are hand drying.

A also disagree that they look "hypersaturated", have a "Photoshopped pr0n look", or appear to "Look like potato sticks fresh out of the fryolater". That sounds more like troll-talk than science, making your entire viewpoint sound disingenuous.
 
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All of the chips I have seen oiled using the water/oil method ended up splotchy,, unless an extra step was included to ensure the chips were uniformly coated. And if one needs to add that step to get acceptable results, you may as well skip the first step and just go straight to hand oiling.
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All of the chips I have seen oiled using the water/oil method ended up splotchy,, unless an extra step was included to ensure the chips were uniformly coated. And if one needs to add that step to get acceptable results, you may as well skip the first step and just go straight to hand oiling.
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I tried to say something similar earlier and I think I was told that I didn't believe in the moon?
 
Oil:water method alone, theoretically, has a lot of flaws:

1) How much oil to water?
So, we are passing the chip through the oil layer through to the water layer, then back up through the oil layer again. How thick should the oil layer be? And how to replenish the oil after repeated dunking and coating of chips? There should be something that you can calculate, but the of course the big variable is the surface area of the oil layer, which will depend on the size/shape of the container. Technically, the amount of water should not matter at all, you just need enough depth to make a comfortable pass in each direction.

2) How do you make the dunk?
A salad spinner has too much surface area contact with the chip. A wire basket would minimize this to get a more even oil coating. I would suggest making the dunk slowly, a very quick shake while still immersed in the water, then a slow rise out. This would be to try and avoid disrupting the oil layer and prevent uneven coating.

3) Should you immerse inlaid chips?
We don't think water + detergent has negative effects since we clean chips this way. But what about oil? There's a lot of talk and not a few proven examples of oil infiltration under inlays, with permanent changes, and possibly affecting shaped inlay chips more (but might be heresay). Is there a real risk? Should you take the chance to save an hour or two?

I much prefer the hand oiling method because the variables are easier to control. Yes, it takes longer. I suppose it's like the argument of overlabelling vs. full inlay replacement. One method unquestionably takes much longer and requires more resources, but it also results in a superior end product.
 
Cleaned in the Ultrasonic and now oiling. I've done as prescribed in the OP previously, but trying a different approach on these. We'll see how they look as time goes by.

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The red/orange/yellows are chips I oiled by hand earlier in the year.

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I will not debate which method is better scientifically etc, but my very limited experience is that I did the compression oil method with my milanos (I wish the "compression" part had been debunked before I did this, because compression oiling ~1800 chips hurts). When I oiled my china clay cash set (1600 chips) I did the "oil in water" method. It was a lot faster, and I do mean a lot, and the end result was the same. But I'm comparing to compression oiling now. When comparing to simpler oiling the difference might be less, but I can't imagine that it can come close to the speed of oil/water.

So for cheap china clays I say just dunk them in water with oil. For more exclusive chips I see why you might want to oil them individually.

My 2 cents.
 
looks like I need to read this thread

I have been oiling chips and my way takes forever LOL

I have been cleaning them with a arm and hammer laundry detergent with Oxi soak then scrub and dry them

once dried I take 10 chips put oil on a qtip and on the edges of the chips and do all the edges this does not take long

its this part that sucks then I take each chip and do around the inlay of the chip both sides

takes forever then I let them airdry for like 12 hours and wipe the excess with a wash cloth man that hurts the hands after a while

I need to read this thread and find a better way asap
 

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