WhiteMamba1646
4 of a Kind
What is a good blind structure for a T500 set?
I play t500 we do:What is a good blind structure for a T500 set?
Triton poker series has one I like. 250k stack. I ran the percent of change, and the max increase on any level was less than 33%. I’m going to run this later this summer. I think I’ll go stacks of 6/12/12/7.What is a good blind structure for a T500 set?
We use this progression (although you can also start with 500/500 for even deeper stacks):What is a good blind structure for a T500 set?
What makes T100 easier with BBA than T25? Isn't the big blind already at 100 or more by the time the BBA kicks in? I've only played in a BBA tournament once, so I'm not familiar enough to know why it would be different. Thanks!My first set was T5. I really didn't know what I was doing, but it worked.
Before buying my second set of chips, I did a very in-depth analysis and found that a T25 base was the most economical. I guess that's why all the casinos were using it. I now have 5 tourney sets with a T25 base, though one of the sets has been used as a T100 base on occasion, as it's purpose is to duplicate a casino structure, and casinos are moving toward a T100 base.
When I was building a set could use T1,000,000 plaques, I built the blind structure so the game would end with the plaques on the table and then worked backwards. Based on my time considerations and blind structure, the first chip I would need was a T500.
Although I dislike antes, I decided to build a set around the BBA. This set also ended up as a T500 set, with the BBA kicking in when the blinds hit 1500-3000 (3000). I have not gotten this set into play yet, as we are playing shorthanded tables during COVID.
I also have a base .25 for our "Survivor" game. Similar to @BGinGA's cash-value stacks game, once we get down to "in the money" the game ends and everyone cashes out for whatever is in their stack.
I voted T25 as my favorite, but each T-base I am familiar with has it's advantages and disadvantages.
The only T-bases I don't care for are the "lots of zeros with no real meaning" sets. If you are running a T100,000 base, and everyone calls it "one hundred", then why ugly up a chip with extra zeros? Make it a T100 and get on with it.
- T.25 - Low buy-in cash value games. Also works as a cash set. Not common though. I think Dave and I are the only two that have run such tournaments.
- T5 - Great for a learning game. New players love to limp into every pot, and a T5 base allows for a T25 type structure with an hour of T5 play. Limping won't cost them a significant portion of their stack, and our records show that when a first-timer plays, they fare much better (often min-cashing) when we use the T5 base set. Players that cash their first time are far more likely to be lifetime poker players. Downside - about 20% of your set will spend 75% of the tournament in the case. The percentage is even higher if attendance is not at maximum capacity.
- T25 - The economic value plus the commonality of the T25. No real downside
- T100 - It's ease with a BBA, combined with it's rising casino popularity. Downside is similar to the T5. You are buying 10-15 chips per player that don't get used if you are not at max attendance.
- T500 - Sets have a maximum player limit, determined by how far you can spread the lowest denom chip and not be making constant change. The T500 allows incredible flexibility for starting players, as a T500 structure doesn't need big piles of these "blinds-only" chips. Also, if your players are the type who, in an all-in situation, count out their T500s in stacks of 2, the T500 base virtually eliminates this dilemma, as there are few stack counts needed while the T500s are still in play. Downside - it just seems odd to many.
I really like the comment of it feeling like real money. I think for my crew, that would be a major plus.We play T5 base with a $1,500 starting stack because it feels more like “real” money. Making $40 or $50 bets early on and then several hundred later feels more realistic. Betting several thousand at a time with a T25 base is money that our group would never see as realistic. In the end it’s all mental as the math is the same for proper ratios.
No T25 chips (or color-up) required.What makes T100 easier with BBA than T25? Isn't the big blind already at 100 or more by the time the BBA kicks in? I've only played in a BBA tournament once, so I'm not familiar enough to know why it would be different. Thanks!
I and My players are the same. I built a T1K set on royal card room.My players like big stacks (and they cannot lie?). More people seem to show up when we played with 25-30k instead of 10k. As a math guy, I hate to tell them that its the same, given the proportion of the starting blinds.
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Next game: 1,000,000 Stack. Blinds start at 5,000-10,000.
Perhaps I can help.I don’t really comprehend the discussion of which chip base makes the gameplay easier for newbies or other types of players.
The speed with which the chips get into play and get depleted depends on the blind structure relative to the chip values, right?
And a well-structured blind progression should be essentially the same (in relative values) whether you start with 5, 25, 50, 100 or for that matter a 10,000 base chip.
As long as starting stacks have the same effective buying power in terms of BB, a blind progression which starts at 5/5 then goes to 5/10 and then 10/20 is the same as 50/50 >>> 50/100 >>> 100-200 etc., assuming the starting stacks are 10x larger.
There can be some vagaries I suppose, since a 25 chip is 1/4 the size of the 100 (the next chip up) while a 100 is 1/5th of a 500.
But again, isn’t it still up to the host to tailor the timing and size of blinds and starting stacks to make a sensible tourney, fitting the number of players and how long they want to play, regardless of the size of the smallest chip?
……..
All that said, I used to prefer a base 100 chip when I was using my old solids set. But when I started assembling a Jack Detroit tourney set, it was not easy and not cheap to buy 1K and 5K chips. So starting with 25s as my base meant I needed fewer of the large denoms.
But that didn’t really change the blind structure meaningfully. It just meant the starting stacks were “smaller” in value because the lowest chip was “smaller.”
Relatively, it’s still the same tournament with either set. Players have the same BBs and effective spending power either way.
I am fairly certain with over 60+ new players taught (not counting celebrities at fundraiser events) that I have never seen a raise to 35, but I certainly agree it could happen. I just don't think it ever has.Sure, but what you appear to be suggesting has less to do with the size of the base chip than with the slowness of the blinds—adding some baby step levels early on before getting to the “real” tournament.
Seems like the same thing could be accomplished by making early levels long, and minimizing the jumps.
When I was learning tournament poker, first in a home game and then in low stakes firehouse/social hall games, *all* of these started the blinds at 100/200… Often with ridiculously slow blind structures, which allowed almost everyone to survive to the lunch break at 2-3 hours in.
The rather unskilled player pool did not seem to have a problem figuring this out. in fact, it might have been easier than using fives as the base chip, since early round raises were all easy to grasp round numbers between 300-1,000.
I’m trying to imagine the chaos in these games (where players are often inattentive) if people had been betting amounts like 15 and 35.
"That's a mortgage payment", he exclaimed. everyone laughed - then we saw he was literally shaking, and locked up with fear. We tried to calm him by telling him it was a $20 tournament. It failed. He went from chip leader to the grand master of folding. He played a few more games, but eventually quit.
This is where I am too. I did semi custom Valentinos last year from @ABC Gifts and Awards.T500 for life now.
It just plays right for me.
This really doesn't have anything to do with the base chip, though. You can have 25/25 and/or 25/75 levels just as easily as you can have base T100 and do 100/200, 200/400 etc. At T40k stacks that's still 200BB. I use T100 base most of the time and never use lopsided levels. I usually start with 50k for 250BBs.On a personal note, I find SB's that aren’t exactly half of the BB (100/100, 100/300, etc.) annoying to my OCD.
Yes, it's annoying that the T25s go out of play so early. But still, it works for me.
Thanks for your input.This really doesn't have anything to do with the base chip, though. You can have 25/25 and/or 25/75 levels just as easily as you can have base T100 and do 100/200, 200/400 etc. At T40k stacks that's still 200BB. I use T100 base most of the time and never use lopsided levels. I usually start with 50k for 250BBs.
Hmm. Not actually inherently opposed to this! I'll think on it.Another way (OCD unfriendly, so not for everyone!) is to merge 200/400 and 300/600 into 250/500.
Oversized Royal with custom Majestic labels as the 25k. You're welcomeSIDE NOTE: Apache, please make a T25K for the Majestics!
I know! I was planning this. But they discontinued blank Royal (and Majestic) chips.Oversized Royal with custom Majestic labels as the 25k. You're welcome![]()
So buy the ones with labels, then buy an exacto knife to peel them off! You'll only need very few anyway, you can probably buy some from someone here if you place an add.I know! I was planning this. But they discontinued blank Royal (and Majestic) chips.
Yes I agree, which is why I am not too torn for it. I run a T25, and only possess about $500K chips total. Even at a deep-stack with 25 people, that's just T500K.IME you only need T25k after you pass around 7-800k in total chips. How big a total chip count are you anticipating?
I know! I was planning this. But they discontinued blank Royal (and Majestic) chips.
So buy the ones with labels, then buy an exacto knife to peel them off! You'll only need very few anyway, you can probably buy some from someone here if you place an add.
IME you only need T25k after you pass around 7-800k in total chips. How big a total chip count are you anticipating?
I’ve always done 20 minute blinds or 15 minute blinds. I have not seen where they start at 20 min, then 15 minutes and then 10 minutes. Is this a better way to run a tournament?Bear in mind that I've never used either of these as we tend to have T15K (150BB) rather than T20K (200BB) starting stacks, but I like putting together blind schedules and have had these made up for a while. They may work for you.
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I like to schedule a break every hour and keep increases as consistent as possible. The first one speeds up after the second break (in my game this is when rebuys end), while the second maintains the same pace until the colour up. Single table with rebuys should end no later than the final levels (though adding contingency levels would always be prudent).
{shudder}Not sure if that helps. We’ve been doing that for about 13 years and all my players love it
IMO no, it's worse. When the blinds get higher and there's more tanking, the levels are shortened? It would turn into a turbo.I’ve always done 20 minute blinds or 15 minute blinds. I have not seen where they start at 20 min, then 15 minutes and then 10 minutes. Is this a better way to run a tournament?